shots stringing

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Oct 7, 2010
Messages
188
Reaction score
69
ok guys went out to shoot my knight disc extreme and the shots at 100 yards started to string up n down in a straight line from 4 inches high to 1 inch low sometimes it would hold for a shot or 2 and make a good group than string again any ideas.M using 200 grain shockwaves with 3 pellets of triple 7 need a little help.
 
Normally when I would get stringing, I would either add a little more powder or take some away. Depending on the bullet. One problem with pellets, its hard to cut 20 grains off the load. I might suggest going to loose powder and trying say... 110-120 grains of loose powder. But those that shoot pellets seem to like them.
 
thank you m going shooting tomorrow morning may try my buck horn 209,was thinking it may be my scope any ideas on that it is a scope built for muzzle loaders.
 
crowhunter1 said:
ok guys went out to shoot my knight disc extreme and the shots at 100 yards started to string up n down in a straight line from 4 inches high to 1 inch low sometimes it would hold for a shot or 2 and make a good group than string again any ideas.M using 200 grain shockwaves with 3 pellets of triple 7 need a little help.

There is a real possibility that your barrel and stock are not fitting together correctly...

Read through this and see if any of it might apply to your rifle...

I wrote this up for a guy on Hunting Net the other day - i will repost it here. Look through it and see if it makes sense to you. I firmly believe the sticky stock will affect your accuracy...


Can i get a little info on making sure i don't have any stock to barrel issues? I have seen info on tv about how a free floating barrel helps and heard of different procedures of seating the barrel. I will be putting a new stock on my gun very soon (broke the original one), and don't want to have issues there.

I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the ‘cheapest’ so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Companies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a wood stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the forearm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel.

In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the Allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place.

When you have the lug screw in tight place the gun in a horizontal position and squeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement – you’re done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same you’re done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy.

If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrel returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the original location and you feel no points of stickiness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test.

During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickiness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thickness of a single dollar bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normal use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!!

Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout....

mike
 
crowhunter1 said:
thank you m going shooting tomorrow morning may try my buck horn 209,was thinking it may be my scope any ideas on that it is a scope built for muzzle loaders.

With BlackHorn 209 use a hot primer. Also start your testing at 90 grains. Unless your hunting large carnivores, 90 grains of BH is a lot of powder. Just because you have a magnum rifle, does not mean you have to shoot a magnum load. As for is the scope bad... anything is possible. But I suspect your getting too much push. Lower the charge down some and see if that don't make them behave. What bullet are you shooting?
 
Since you're using the 200 Shockwave, I'll assume you're shooting a 45 cal.

3 pellets is max load for either the 45 or 50 and may part of the problem. In my Knights, I find 90 grains of BH 209 or T7 to be the most accurate when shooting a 200 grain projectile. I will load up to 100 or 110 with little change if I want the added velocity. I see no reason to go higher as I feel it just burns powder and adds recoil.

Try 90 -110 and you should have a good shooter. I also like the Harvester Smooth Blue sabots as they seem to tighten up the groups a little.

Last comment: Familiarize yourself with the dos a don'ts of using BH209. It's my powder of choice but has some variations from other subs and pure Black.
 
sabotloader said:
crowhunter1 said:
ok guys went out to shoot my knight disc extreme and the shots at 100 yards started to string up n down in a straight line from 4 inches high to 1 inch low sometimes it would hold for a shot or 2 and make a good group than string again any ideas.M using 200 grain shockwaves with 3 pellets of triple 7 need a little help.

There is a real possibility that your barrel and stock are not fitting together correctly...

Read through this and see if any of it might apply to your rifle...

I wrote this up for a guy on Hunting Net the other day - i will repost it here. Look through it and see if it makes sense to you. I firmly believe the sticky stock will affect your accuracy...


Can i get a little info on making sure i don't have any stock to barrel issues? I have seen info on tv about how a free floating barrel helps and heard of different procedures of seating the barrel. I will be putting a new stock on my gun very soon (broke the original one), and don't want to have issues there.

:think: It sounds like the same problem I had with the .50 I picked up for $50.00, the barrel was rocking back in forth in the stock. I dremeled out the barrel channel then bedded it along with the ramp between the recoil lug and trigger. Problem solved. :yeah:

I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the ‘cheapest’ so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Companies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a wood stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the forearm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel.

In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the Allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place.

When you have the lug screw in tight place the gun in a horizontal position and squeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement – you’re done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same you’re done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy.

If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrel returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the original location and you feel no points of stickiness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test.

During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickiness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thickness of a single dollar bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normal use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!!

Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout....

mike
 
sabotloader, Sorry for hijacking your quote, But I'll try again, It sounds like the problems I had with the (2) .50 Knight Disc I picked up for $50.00 each , the barrels rock back and forth in the stock. The problem was the ramp between the recoil lug and the trigger, the ramp was to low so the barrel rocked back and forth under recoil. I dremeled out the barrel channel and lowered the ramp a little bit then bedded the whole thing. The .50's are now good shooter, I'm now going to use them for the Hunter Ed Program, they will be replacing on the CVA Buchkorns.
 
ok guys lowered my charge to 90 grns WOW what a differance put 2 shots in under an inch at 100 yards moved the zero over and down dead on at 100 even with me muffing a shot still had 3 shots in an 1 1/2 shooting buckhorn 209 and 200 grn shockwave the disc extreme I beleave is ready thanks Cayuga for the advice I was amazed at how the stringing disappeared. :D
 
Back
Top