Barrel Oil/Lube Recommendation?

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It is not bull iptroll. Rust preventers are NOT rust inhibitors.
Signed
Millions of bore butter/wonderlube users with rusted barrels.

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My last post or two never mentioned my preferences in relations to friction. I seemed to lean into one-step cleanings and corrosion protection-only.... a one product posting..... a top-dog CLP

For those of you with moving actions and concerns thereof, the two best friction-fighting gun oils are Weapon Shield and MPro-7. I have never used both of these productions in conjunction with bore protection. I do not have the testing that says you can use both of these productions to store your rust-free bores for multiple years. But I would guess to say we could. These both are outstanding oils, as is the Slip 2000EWL I mentioned and others like Gun Butter, Fireclean and a few others.

Many of these top-dog friction-fighters are basically L.Ps, without the C. They will minimally clean your pistol or rifle...... certainly not good enough cleaning agents for years of continuous use. That is why I like my combo of friction fighting and bore protection ...... Slip 2000EWL. As an added precaution after disassembly, I clean with Ballistol first, then use the Slip. Ballistol is fine by-itself as a CLP one-step everything. It keeps lead, carbon and copper to a minimum and bore-protects too.

Signed
Hickok45 (Ballistol #1 promoter)

I'm #2 BTW.... lol :D
 
For those who like a CLP you should consider the link I posted. It's worked well for me so far. Read some of the reviews and faq.
 
Muley Hunter said:
For those who like a CLP you should consider the link I posted. It's worked well for me so far. Read some of the reviews and faq.

Main ingredient
NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM), HYDROTREATED HEAVY 70-90%
 
For some reason some muzzleloader shooters have problems with bores rusting. Every year close to deer/elk season i used to get a dozen or so muzzleloaders to sight in, mount scopes on, check zeroes, etc. About half were rusty and/or filty. Finally go tired of cleaning up neglected guns, now i won't accept them.

i have not had a gun bore rust in the past 60 years. Worked overseas for many years; at one stretch i never saw my guns for well over two years. Not to worry; there was no rust anywhere on any of my guns.

i get this nagging feeling that some muzzleloader shooters are not getting their bores clean and free of moisture prior to applying oil/snake oil/protecterant/whatever to the bore. One must get all the fouling crud out of the bore. The bore must be absolutely dry prior to applying protection.

For short term storage my gun bores get swabbed with a light oil. For longer term storage the bore gets swabbed with Militec 1.
 
Muley Hunter said:
What are you trying to say?

You said to read the FAQs correct? Well that info came from their SDS. I feel knowing whats in it is a good idea especially when a gallon runs $185. The milspec SENT-CLP i get runs about $25 gallon at gun shows and its POA based aka synthetic oil.
 
Ive always heard avoid anything petroleum based, especially when shooting real black. the residue turns to a thick, sticky, hard to clean tar.
 
Okie Hog said:
For some reason some muzzleloader shooters have problems with bores rusting. Every year close to deer/elk season i used to get a dozen or so muzzleloaders to sight in, mount scopes on, check zeroes, etc. About half were rusty and/or filty. Finally go tired of cleaning up neglected guns, now i won't accept them.

i have not had a gun bore rust in the past 60 years. Worked overseas for many years; at one stretch i never saw my guns for well over two years. Not to worry; there was no rust anywhere on any of my guns.

i get this nagging feeling that some muzzleloader shooters are not getting their bores clean and free of moisture prior to applying oil/snake oil/protecterant/whatever to the bore. One must get all the fouling crud out of the bore. The bore must be absolutely dry prior to applying protection.

For short term storage my gun bores get swabbed with a light oil. For longer term storage the bore gets swabbed with Militec 1.

After cleaning how long should you let the barrel dry before one, it is completely dry, and two, it hasn't had enough time to rust?
 
After cleaning how long should you let the barrel dry before one, it is completely dry, and two, it hasn't had enough time to rust?

Don't let the barrel dry on its own. Dry the bore using clean dry patches. Then swab with an oily patch ASAP.
 
I like to use Butchs Bore Shine for bore cleaning. There are also other good products. After a range session I always start out pushing a couple of patches straight through the barrel. No back and forth. I soak a patch with butches run it through the bore several times and let sit for about 15 minutes. Then wire brush about 30 strokes. Repeat. Once everything is loosened up good I start pushing patches through the bore. None of that back and forth stuff,just straight through. Imo pushing a patch back and forth just moves the crud around. Once the patches come out COMPLETELY snow white I know the bore is both clean and dry. I also like to use a spinjag. This really helps to get down into the grooves. I think a lot of rust problems are indeed from cleaning that isn't complete. Using this process I have never had a single issue with rust. :!:
 
GM54-120 said:
Muley Hunter said:
What are you trying to say?

You said to read the FAQs correct? Well that info came from their SDS. I feel knowing whats in it is a good idea especially when a gallon runs $185. The milspec SENT-CLP i get runs about $25 gallon at gun shows and its POA based aka synthetic oil.

I agree, but what are the rest of the ingredients?
 
You can ensure your bore is dry with alcohol. ISO-HEET is 99% Isopropanol and available at nearly any automotive supply shop such as Advance Auto or NAPA. Original HEET is 99% methanol so you should take care and avoid skin contact.

Heet_1513-600.jpg
 
I have gone to using butches as a cleaner. Montana extreme bore conditioner in the bore and barricade on the exterior. I swab with 91% alcohol pop three primers swab and load.
 
After making sure my bore is clean and dry, I use barricade for short term storage and RIG for long term.
 
schoolmaster said:
After making sure my bore is clean and dry, I use barricade for short term storage and RIG for long term.

The RIG isn't really necessary. Your Birchwood-Casey I had in a bore for seven years and never touched it. Your Barricade was prior called Sheath. I had a no-name brand like Rustex (purchased at an auto-parts store) in a bore for seven years and never touched it. They both were fine, when finally came time to selling those MLs.

Heck, even the $2.99 Hoppes Oil at Walmart is good. What you have to watch-out for with the low-end petroleum brands, is drying out. But sometimes the visuals of drying-out aren't the same as lost protection. Sometimes naked to our eyes is unseen protection.

The #1 protector of your guns is the smarts to keep those guns away from humidity. If you do that, then very little oil is needed and the inexpensive gun oil brands like Hoppes, Outers....etc.... will work. If you play your cards right and avoid the humidity - but still demand a grease instead of thin oil, you can substitute that RIG with (believe it or not) ....Vaseline........ seriously.

It's what my Dad used on his 30-30 and no rust in the bore. That gun is older than the hills of Iron Mountain Michigan. The forever saying is .... Keep Your Powder Dry. Nobody ever mentions "Keep Your Gun Dry", but that dry powder is useless, if you didn't keep that gun away from humidity and non-protection thereof the humidity.

Guns have been found in someone's dead grandpa's basement, leaning up against a wall for over 50 years. Even the barrel had a slight bend in it because of not being touched. But because the house was adjacent to the desert and was coated with a protector over 50 years ago, it remained rust-free.

Keep moisture away and use just about anything members here might use for protection. They pretty-much all work well, in the right conditions surrounding those guns. If you take pistols outdoors everyday like me - rain, snow or sunshine, use good stuff to protect it. Otherwise, my rifles very seldom get pulled out of the safe and inspected. Where I keep them is always dry.
 
Qwerty11 said:
Do you recommend doing anything after you load your gun for a hunting season?

For hunting, I load on a clean, dry barrel. I don't do a thing until after I shoot....which might be weeks or sometimes even months.

BUT keep in mind, this is done on rifles that have not had any rusting issues.
 
I also load in a clean barrel, tape the muzzle, and never bring the gun inside into the warmth until season is over.

Sent from my ME301T using Tapatalk
 
Wanted to run this by you guys as far as what oil/ protectant I am using.

After cleaning barrel (windex patches) and drying I use protec http://protecguncare.com/Gun/Lubricants.html gunoil on a patch and run it through the barrel once. I have the 10cc syringes. I also apply this to threads of my breech plug before I wrap it with teflon tape.

Once that is done, I put some CorrosionX on a rag and wipe down the exterrior of the barrel, and trigger area.
http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html

Anyone else use these products or have an informed opinion about them?
 

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