Teflon on Muzzleloader breechplug threads

Advertise with us
shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
M

mike nelson

Well-Known Member
*
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
122
Reaction score
59
Been reading quite a bit of discussion on proper products for MZ breechplug threads. I assume that the issue is mainly for prevention of seizing or galling from residue working its way into the threads. Many suggest using teflon tape, is this in addition to a anti-seize product? In the Power Generation Industry it is common to only use a few wraps of teflon tape followed up with a light coating of teflon joint compound over the tape. This provides a HIGH PRESSURE seal for the commonly used Tapered threaded instrumentation connections and ensures that the joint can be taken apart. Removing either of these products would not be any more messy than a anti-sieze product and works very well. I believe the breech plug threads are of a non-taperd design and there for harder to seal than a taperd NPS (nominal pipe size) thread design. The teflon tape and teflon thread sealant really works great on non-ferrous materials (Stainless to Stainless) which are the hardest to seal. Good teflon tape and sealant is free of chlorides which can attack Stainless Steel for long term use.
 
I think most who use the thread tape as I do don't use anything else. Use only a single wrap. Wrap all the threads. Prevents seizing as you said and keeps threads clean.
 
I like a layer of the pipe tape but even then I smear a very very light coating of anti seize over the tape.
 
On my TC Impact, tape only, shooting BH 209.
It's just a single layer, and it keeps the threads clean. Why add grease and make it messy? I've had zero issues doing it this way.

Better yet is my TC Triumph (Bone Collector). No tape or grease needed - I have learned to really like that breech plug!
 
I hate grease! One layer of tape wrapped in the correct direction, then turned between your thumb and forefinger to press the tape into the valleys. Install slowly and smoothly...





I would prefer to use the pink tape (thicker) on all plugs but depending on fir you may have to use white tape (thinner) It really depends on how the BP fits the in the female threads...

Wrapping the tape over the nose and pressing it done into the nose is a key point. When you install the plug install it snug - snug enough that you are pressing the nose of the breech and the tape into the rim in the bore. Do not crush or tear the tape.

Also the threads in the bore need to be very clean to prevent tearing the tape as you turn the plug in. Another reason I do not like grease.

Normally when I remove the plug most of the tape stays in the bore threads and needs to be cleaned out with a bore brush turning CCW...



This is what I use to clean the internal threads...



Here is a drawing that a friend made with an explanation...

 
You folks certainly answered my question and more! Noting that depending on the tolerance between the male and female BP threads of a particular rifle/BP thicker or thinner teflon tape and the # of wraps may work better. Thanks.
 
WOW! You guys go to amazing lengths, for sure!
I must say that shooting a simple T/C Impact, and probably 300 rounds of the Barnes MZ 290's, as well as at least that number of Nosler Partition 260 HG's, I have NEVER used tape or grease. The gun will still shoot M.O.A., if I do my part, and have yet to have a problem removing the plug. Hope I never do. Granted, 6-7 hundred rounds doesn't come close to making me an expert! Just my experience, to date, is all.
What a pain in the azz that would be.
 
alaska viking said:
WOW! You guys go to amazing lengths, for sure!
I must say that shooting a simple T/C Impact, and probably 300 rounds of the Barnes MZ 290's, as well as at least that number of Nosler Partition 260 HG's, I have NEVER used tape or grease. The gun will still shoot M.O.A., if I do my part, and have yet to have a problem removing the plug. Hope I never do. Granted, 6-7 hundred rounds doesn't come close to making me an expert! Just my experience, to date, is all.
What a pain in the azz that would be.
Click to expand...

I find that if I don't use tape on my Impact that a bit of blowback follows the threads and exits the small hole in the bottom of the barrel threads. This then puts soot right down into the trigger assembly, etc. If I tape it, no blowback and everything stays clean.

Using the tape has nothing to do with accuracy, in my case. It just makes cleanup easier.
 
Yes, BH209. I do a very thorough clean-up after every shoot, to be sure, and I do see a very small amount of blow-back. Most sessions are 20-30 rounds.
Shoulder starts complaining after that. :)
 
I shoot a bit of BH209 but mostly SML. You better use either a great sealing breech plug and anti seize. I use white PTFE tape AND anti seize on the vent liner. Just straight PTFE tape on the plug threads, use whatever is at hand, yellow-pink-white and apply as thick as needed to get a really good gas seal. If you have ever had a vent or plug "gas cut" you know why the seal is so important. Ask me why I know. W
 
ponsness said:
Been reading quite a bit of discussion on proper products for MZ breechplug threads. I assume that the issue is mainly for prevention of seizing or galling from residue working its way into the threads. Many suggest using teflon tape, is this in addition to a anti-seize product? In the Power Generation Industry it is common to only use a few wraps of teflon tape followed up with a light coating of teflon joint compound over the tape. This provides a HIGH PRESSURE seal for the commonly used Tapered threaded instrumentation connections and ensures that the joint can be taken apart. Removing either of these products would not be any more messy than a anti-sieze product and works very well. I believe the breech plug threads are of a non-taperd design and there for harder to seal than a taperd NPS (nominal pipe size) thread design. The teflon tape and teflon thread sealant really works great on non-ferrous materials (Stainless to Stainless) which are the hardest to seal. Good teflon tape and sealant is free of chlorides which can attack Stainless Steel for long term use.
Click to expand...

You never mentioned what powder brand you use. At least one powder brand recommends anti-seize and a couple powder brands don't need anything more than tape. A couple brands of powde need nothing at all on the threads.

I use anti-seize compound with 777 FFF.
I use thread tape with Blackhorn
I use nothing with Goex FFF.
 

Similar threads

S
A few new ideas
2 3
Replies
59
Views
7K
Sideshow
S
ENCORE50A
Busy lately...
Replies
5
Views
1K
ENCORE50A
ENCORE50A
E
Black Powder Substitute - What's a good choice?
Replies
14
Views
5K
Buck Conner1
B
B
A PERIOD BUSINESS
Replies
2
Views
2K
user 23626
U
B
Boy Scouts (BSA) and Girl Scouts (GSA) gathered as one group. (page 3)
Replies
0
Views
1K
Buck Conner1
B

Latest posts

Back
Top