Initial range report. 35's in a 45.

Shot some 180 357 XTPs and some 9mm 147 XTPs. 60 gr and 50gr of 3f Swiss 3f. The 180s should match the 180gr 40s velocity of 1750fps with that charge. Don't know about the 9mm. Sure shoots flat! The sabot are blue MMPs.
Accuracy in this limited test was a bit disappointing. Both bullets loaded with perfect tension. Neither bullet wanted to easily seat in the sabot. Especially the 180s. Sabots were found almost 25 yards down range for both loads. This was a surprise as I'm used to finding them 10 to 15 feet from the muzzle. The 35/45 Sabots are heavier than the 40/45s, but that is a lot of additional distance. I'm thinking possible separation issue.
The 180s put 3 into about 2 inches at 50 and 3 at 100. The 147s did 1 1/2 at 50 1 3/4 at 75 but I blew it out to 4 inches at 100. Amazingly, both loads also shot to the same point of impact as my 40 caliber loads. This rifle is a wonder in this regard. 4 different bullets, 2 different calibers, 3 different Sabots and 4 powder charges an they ALL hit the same spot at 100! Shouldn't be, but it is. Will do some more fiddling around. I want to get the 9mm/35's shooting as well as the 40s!

Confederate rifleman said:

Sabots were found almost 25 yards down range for both loads. This was a surprise as I'm used to finding them 10 to 15 feet from the muzzle. The 35/45 Sabots are heavier than the 40/45s, but that is a lot of additional distance. I'm thinking possible separation issue.

Click to expand...

I had the same thing happen to me when I shot a 40/50 sabot a few weeks ago. I think the thick petals don't fan out as much as the the thinner petals which is less drag on the sabot which allows it to travel much further down range.

I have observed the same exact thing in all of my inlines/SML's over the years. A lot of guys believe the thickness allows the bullet to cant on the shot and causes inaccuracy(which may be true to some degree), but I believe as you've stated that the real culprit is the petal thickness and how cleanly it releases the bullet at the muzzle.

I experimented with 50/40 sabots and bent the petals back to "pre- condition" them and although accuracy still wasn't up to par for me with any load(the couple .50's I have), I found I was able to improve the groups a noticeable amount by doing this. IF it were a bullet canting issue, then obviously it wouldn't have impacted anything.
I also believe that short bullets do better because they allow the air pressure to open the sabot faster than when the bullet extends beyond the petals.
I even thought about strategically weakening the petals by skiving them with a razor blade at their flex point , but never got around to testing that theory. I think I'll try that with my son's "little" handi rifle with his 50/40 load of 50 grns/BH209 and his .40 200 xtp load vs some .40 155xtps this fall.

Just my thoughts..

I was wondering about pre flaring the sabots too. As far as skiving them at the base, I think a mid point might be better in terms of minimizing petal separation. Once the open end of the sabot catches air, it will pop right open. Perhaps skiving it about 1/2 way down the petal?
Bullet canting doesn't seem to be an issue with my Black Diamond. The QLA was designed specifically to prevent this. The bullet marks on the target ( old manilla folder) shows no wobble. A nice clean hole. The hollowpoint cut properly centered.
Given that this rifle has an aperture setup, I would be happy with 2 inch 3 rounders at 100 yards. With some of the 40 caliber loads, she has done considerably better. My goal is to have the widest possible choices in bullets.

Well... Flared the sabot and things got worse. Best 100 yarder was 4 inches. Got 100 of the 100 of the 357 180 xtps. If it was easy...