Caliber and bullet choice for flintlock deer rifle.

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frwillia

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Continuing my quest for enough information to make a rational choice on a late season PA legal flintlock deer rifle, caliber, bullet choice, and twist are next on my list - the bullet may impact twist rate. The requirements, from page 43 in the "Pennsylvania Hunting & Trapping Digest" are:

"Flintlock ignition, single-barrel muzzleloader long gun, 44 caliber or larger, or 50 caliber or larger handgun, using single projectile ammunition. It is unlawful to use telescopic sights. Peep sights are permitted."

What I'm trying to do is zero in on requirements, then look for rifles that meet them.

Required useful range is probablly implied by the hunting situation. Where I hunt now I can get within 120 yards of most expected deer locations. I may be able to get closer when I start thinking like a flintlock hunter instead of a .30-06 centerfire hunter. There are a couple of places where I've ranged it at 208 yards but that is about the longest shot, and there is lots of hunting where the ranges are shorter. The deer I shot during Senior Season this year was at 45 yards. I may never use it, but I'd like some range cushion built into the shooting system if that is possible so I'm not always pushing the boundry.

So to the extent possible, I'd like to choose bullet type and twist rate to maximize useful range in a PA legal flintlock deer rifle.

Finally, there is no pressure. I have till next year's muzzle loader season to get this sorted out and get lots of range time so I can "make friends" with the new rifle and clearly understand my and my rifles combined limitations before heading to the field to hunt. I belong to a range where I can shoot at 25, 50, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, or 800 yard backstops. I won't need longest 4 for my flintlock (I've never shot at the 800 yard one with anything) but I will shoot at 200, and/or 150 out back on the farm here, possibly at wet newspaper or phone books to clearly understand what it does out there.

Enough background already.

I was thinking 50 CAL, but it was suggested in another thread by a knowledgable person that I get the rifle in 54 CAL. I don't know enough to make a reasonable decision on even that small specification at the moment. I'm thinking the choice of caliber might be driven to some extent by choice of bullet which may be driven by useful range issues.

Before that suggestion caused me to question my thinking, my thought was to get a rifle in 50 caliber with a 1:32" or 1:48" twist and shoot conicals or minnieballs that I cast myself.

The conicals or minnieballs are considerably heavier than round balls so 50 caliber seemed like it would shoot at least a little flatter and might have more useful range than a 54CAL shooting those same bullets. .50CAL also seemed like a better choice, at the time, than .45CAL because the bullet wouldn't be moving all that fast, might not expand much, and the bigger hole would be better. That same size argument could be applied too .54CAL as well.

Heavier bullets will have more recoil than lighter ones, but as long as the recoil doesn't exceed that of my .30-06 (which has a blued steel buttplate) by too much, it won't be an issue.

I haven't attached any indispensible ego to any of those thoughts.

So, to my questions:

What are the Pro's and Con's of round ball vs Conical vs minnieball vs saboted HP as it relates to effectiveness in bringing down deer with a flintlock?

How does bullet choice relate to caliber and useful range given a reasonable powder charge?

Does choosing a 1:32" twist or 1:48" twist rule out shooting round ball ammo?

Is 1:32" fast enough for sabots? Is 1:48" fast enough for sabots?

If the flintlock will shoot sabots, do sabots confer a useful range advantage?

I can think of more questions, but I'll stick to those for the moment.

Thanks for your patience.
Fitch
 
As to you first question whatever you choose shot placement is the key
second answer is each flinter is unique as to what it likes
#3 a quick rule of thumb is 1 in 66 PRB or short conicals 1 in 48 PRB short and long conicals and sabots 1 in 28 long conicals and sabots
#4 1 in 32 and 1 in 48 are both fast enough for sabots
As far as your questions about range ........range is relative to your ability and comfort level with your weapon. I limit my flinter shots to a 70 yd max .others are comfortable out to 100 yds or more.
As the old adage goes perfect practice makes perfect shots
 
flint

I have a 1:48 Lyman Deerstalker flinty that I shoot shockwave 250 grains w/ supplied sabot out of quite efficiently to 100 yards. I have shot TC Cheapshots w/ supplied sabot as well. However, I keep my shots under 100 yards. I load 82 grains of Goex 3f and 4f in the pan. I got my first kill this week w/it in the PA traditional season.
 
I have two TC Hawlen rifles in .54 cal and I like both. A good choice but....
If you choose .50 cal you will have much more of a choice of bullets. There is just not many for .54 cal.
I would also choose 1 -48 because it is more versitile. Maybe doesn't do either best but does both very well indeed. I also have a TC Firestorm, a popular PA flintlock. It can be loaded to hunt elephant if the urge arises.
150 grs of powder and 300 gr sabot. Go for it man.
 
just go with a .54cal shooting round ball. Great for elk size game and smaller on out to 150 yards
 
If I were going to shoot ONLY roundball for deer hunting, I would go to the .54 caliber. 33% bigger ball and I personally believe the .54 caliber roundball to be one of the most deadly projectiles out there. You put that ball in the right place and animals just die.

If I wanted to shoot conicals or sabots, then go with a .50 caliber. Since you want to shoot a flintlock and lets say you want to shoot conicals or sabots, you have a couple choices. Lyman makes a Great Plains Hunter with a 1-32 twist. They shoot conicals and sabots very good.

Thompson Center makes a Hawkins in .50 caliber. It shoots roundball very good, and will shoot conicals and even sabots. Once you find the right one.

Another option is if you owned a T/C Hawkins or Renegade, or a Cabela's Hawkins, or Lyman Trade Rifle in flintlock... Green Mountain Barrel Company sells a barrel that you can trade out with the factory barrel. It has a 1-28 twist and shoots conicals and sabots wonderful.

RMC Sports in PA used to sell a rifle they built. It was a flintlock, had a laminated stock (weather resistant) a Chambers lock (top of the line) and a Green Mountain 1-28 twist Barrel on it. They are great sabot and conicals shooters.

A flintlock is only as good as the lock and the barrel.
 
I hunt the PA late flintlock season and have for years. In no particular order, I'll offer up my opinions and answers regarding your questions...

I hunt with a .54 custom "Transitional" Berks County rifle, 1760's style and shoot .535 patched round balls out of it that weigh 230 grains. With 80 grains of Swiss 3F I am probably getting 1700 fps--It is essentially a .44 Magnum. My Marlin .44 shoots a 240 grn bullet at 1750 fps.

I like shooting patched round balls. And the big .54's (or .58's or bigger) are killers. My rifle is twisted 1:66 btw, and I have gotten great accuracy from 1:48 and 1:56 in other guns.

If I was starting out with a flintlock tomorrow I would look very hard at the Lymans in .54. The .50 cal guns are OK, and they kill lots of deer, but the .50 round ball weighs about 180 grns. The extra weight of the 230 grn .54 round ball kills a lot better IMO.

If you do not want to shoot PRB, and have your heart set on conicals or sabots, a .50 is fine. A 1:48 or 1:32 twist should work well. My experience with sabots is limited to a scoped inline that is twisted 1:28 I think--it is very accurate--1" or better at 100 yds.

IMO your range with a flintlock will be limited by the sights and your ability to shoot, not by your ammo. If I have a solid rest and a deer broadside within 100 yds that deer is in trouble. But in the PA woods I hunt I rarely have ideal conditions. I really consider flintlock hunting more a 50 yd game, but that's me. I have shot my flintlock out to 200 and 300 for fun, but would NEVER do that at game. The last thing I want to do is wound or cripple and lose a deer--I am picky about shots. My scoped inline is a 200 yd gun, not my flintlock.

Have fun with your research and shopping. The key to a good time with a flintlock is getting a good lock--in factory guns I would look at the Lymans and T/C's. In south central PA I would go to Dixons (a little east towards Allentown) or Fort Chambers, in Chambersburg. They can help get your lock sparking really well.

I am in Carlisle and shoot at Carlisle Fish and Game--let me know if you have any questions or want help when you are ready to shoot.
 
paia said:
I hunt the PA late flintlock season and have for years. In no particular order, I'll offer up my opinions and answers regarding your questions...

I hunt with a .54 custom "Transitional" Berks County rifle, 1760's style and shoot .535 patched round balls out of it that weigh 230 grains. With 80 grains of Swiss 3F I am probably getting 1700 fps--It is essentially a .44 Magnum. My Marlin .44 shoots a 240 grn bullet at 1750 fps.

I like shooting patched round balls. And the big .54's (or .58's or bigger) are killers. My rifle is twisted 1:66 btw, and I have gotten great accuracy from 1:48 and 1:56 in other guns.

If I was starting out with a flintlock tomorrow I would look very hard at the Lymans in .54. The .50 cal guns are OK, and they kill lots of deer, but the .50 round ball weighs about 180 grns. The extra weight of the 230 grn .54 round ball kills a lot better IMO.

That seems to be the consensus here and across the WEB. It makes sense as I learn more.

If you do not want to shoot PRB, and have your heart set on conicals or sabots, a .50 is fine. A 1:48 or 1:32 twist should work well. My experience with sabots is limited to a scoped inline that is twisted 1:28 I think--it is very accurate--1" or better at 100 yds.

IMO your range with a flintlock will be limited by the sights and your ability to shoot, not by your ammo.

Yup.

If I have a solid rest and a deer broadside within 100 yds that deer is in trouble. But in the PA woods I hunt I rarely have ideal conditions.

Same non-ideal conditions here. I've taken down ground hog at 170 yards standing off sticks with my scoped Hornet, but that is a far cry from doing the same thing with an open sighted flintlock - especially with my eyes. I am planning on a lot of practice over the summer. I think with practice and a solid rest I'll get it figured out.

I really consider flintlock hunting more a 50 yd game, but that's me. I have shot my flintlock out to 200 and 300 for fun, but would NEVER do that a game. The last thing I want to do is wound or cripple and lose a deer--I am picky about shots. My scoped inline is a 200 yd gun, not my flintlock.

The ballistics confirm that. The BC of lead balls is pretty bad, so velocity bleeds off pretty fast and energy (the ability to do damage) falls off a cliff. The idea is to make a big hole in vital tissue, the ball has to have enough energy left to do that and then some. I'll be interested to compare the performance of conicals and PRB's.

Have fun with your research and shopping. The key to a good time with a flintlock is getting a good lock--in factory guns I would look at the Lymans and T/C's. In south central PA I would go to Dixons (a little east towards Allentown) or Fort Chambers, in Chambersburg. They can help get your lock sparking really well.

I am in Carlisle and shoot at Carlisle Fish and Game--let me know if you have any questions or want help when you are ready to shoot.

Thank you very much for that reply. I'm just outside of Carlisle, not too far from the Cumberland Golf Course, shoot at Shippensburg Fish and Game and Chambersburg Pistol and Rifle Club.

I understand your suggestions and they make sense to me. Since I posted my questions I've done some more research, the results of that and your suggestions agree essentially completely.

I visited the folks at Ft. Chambers, they were very helpful as well. I'll go back there after the "season" is over. They are pretty busy right now.

I'll be looking at a .54CAL Lyman Deer Stalker Flintlock with their nice adjustable peep sight added. It appears to meet all the requirements. I can shoot with the ghost ring rear sight, I like the size of the rifle for the woods here, the 1:48 twist gives me the option to cast and shoot conicals or minnieballs as part of the fun, it has sling swivel studs (I really don't like hunting with a rifle that doesn't have a sling), and from what I can tell it should be reliable given reasonable care.

Thanks again to all who replied. Your input is much appreciated.

Fitch
 
cayuga said:
RMC Sports in PA used to sell a rifle they built. It was a flintlock, had a laminated stock (weather resistant) a Chambers lock (top of the line) and a Green Mountain 1-28 twist Barrel on it. They are great sabot and conicals shooters.

A flintlock is only as good as the lock and the barrel.

I think they may still sell it. They list a laminated stock 50CAL flintlock carbine with 21" barrel. A guy that hunts my sisters farm just bought two used flintlocks for $100.00 each - first muzzle loaders he's owned. One of them is a Traditions <something>, the other is a cute little short barrel laminated stock carbine that looks very much like the one on RMC Sports WEB page. I'll have to measure the twist in that for him to see if it is the one you are talking about.

I discovered the Black Powder Calculator in QuickLoad. I use QL all the time, it's been a wonderful tool for centerfire load development. I played with it for a few minutes this morning modeling the loads in the back of the Thompson Center Firestorm manual (available online).

QuickLoad predicts MV within a few fps (like within +/- 40fps) of what is in the manual which was both surprising and encouraging. I'm not sure how close to reality either the manual or QL are, but having some initial agreement with the manual is encouraging and suggests the QL calculator might be a useful learning tool for a newbie trying to get a better understanding the relative differences between bullets, calibers, barrel lengths, and their relative muzzle velocities and energies.

It also says the 21" carbine pays a significant muzzle velocity penalty because it is so short. The guy is shooting .490 patched round balls in it over 80g of FFg, and if QuickLoad is right, they are exiting at around 1,500 fps which is a rather anemic load for hunting deer.

I can see why you like your long barrel Lyman Great Plains shooting PRB.

Fitch
 
frwillia said:
I discovered the Black Powder Calculator in QuickLoad. I use QL all the time, it's been a wonderful tool for centerfire load development. I played with it for a few minutes this morning modeling the loads in the back of the Thompson Center Firestorm manual (available online).

QuickLoad predicts MV within a few fps (like within +/- 40fps) of what is in the manual which was both surprising and encouraging. I'm not sure how close to reality either the manual or QL are, but having some initial agreement with the manual is encouraging and suggests the QL calculator might be a useful learning tool for a newbie trying to get a better understanding the relative differences between bullets, calibers, barrel lengths, and their relative muzzle velocities and energies.

It also says the 21" carbine pays a significant muzzle velocity penalty because it is so short. The guy is shooting .490 patched round balls in it over 80g of FFg, and if QuickLoad is right, they are exiting at around 1,500 fps which is a rather weak load for hunting deer.

I can see why you like your long barrel Lyman Great Plains shooting PRB.

Fitch

http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... ight=swiss

Here's a thread on some velocity tests I did last summer. The computer calculators are fun but there is no substitute for testing the stuff yourself. An inexpensive $100 chronograph is fun to use and eye opening--it's worth the $$ IMO if you are really into this stuff.

I need to get out and test the Swiss 3F in my flinter. I did chrono Goex 2F and 3F in it before, but that was years ago.
 
paia said:
http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... ight=swiss

Here's a thread on some velocity tests I did last summer. The computer calculators are fun but there is no substitute for testing the stuff yourself. An inexpensive $100 chronograph is fun to use and eye opening--it's worth the $$ IMO if you are really into this stuff.

I need to get out and test the Swiss 3F in my flinter. I did chrono Goex 2F and 3F in it before, but that was years ago.

Thanks for that data. Nicely done! (It was clearly done on a day much warmer than today!)

I absolutely agree there is no substitute for test data (I have a CED chronograph that has thousands of center fire rounds thorugh it), and models not validated by test data are almost useless. I also use a program called "OnTarget" (a free download) to analyze every target when I'm doing load development for my centerfires, and will doubless do the same for my muzzle loader. I'm what some would call a dataholic.

Alas, relying only on test data means one has to have and shoot all candidates under all conditions to make a decision with out filling in missing data with fantasy (there is a lot of fantasy on the WEB). The benefit of analysis combined with testing to validate the analysis is that it makes possible a lot of "what-if" trade-offs that fill in missing data with analytically derrived data, which is generally much better than fantasy or guessing, with out the time and expense of actually building the "what-if" rifle and shooting it.

That said, one must also be aware of the multiple sources of error in modeling and use the results accordingly. I spent 35 years in aerospace as an space power systems enginner, most of the time trying to figure out how to do things that had never been done before. Trust me on this, if it wasn't for "both" analysis and test, we'd never have gotten it done. But I digress.

I was especially glad to see the test data with the Swiss powder, I have only data (Miller K-values) for something called 1.5F1 Swiss powder in QuickLoad, nothing for FFFg or FFg versions of Swiss powder. Having your data will enable me to calibrate a powder's Miller K-value against a bullet weight and barrel length and perhaps get some idea of performance in other than the conditions you tested.

I won't be surprised if essentially equivelant accuracy happens at approximately the same muzzle velocities. Repeatability is dependent on both the dynamics of the powder and the dynamic behavior of the rifle in response to the loads imposed by the internal ballistics process, in addition to the skill of the shooter.

Looking at how muzzle loaders are built, and the opportunity for flex and shifting in the stock, I am also not surprised that best accuracy usually comes at powder charges well below maximum because the rifle has a lot of opportunity to gyrate while the bullet is making it's way to the muzzle. I suspect a very slow motion video of a muzzleloader being fired would be interesting to watch.

The more I analyze this technology the more sense it makes that the traditional rifles evolved to be like they are (big bores, long barrels, optimized for accuracy with PRB projectiles). Long barrels make a significant difference in muzzle velocity and energy in traditional rifles. When the projectile has all the ballistic sophistication of a ping-pong ball, it makes sense to get it out of the barrrel as fast as one can. With in the limits of practacality, longer barrels are faster than shorter ones.

I can also see the sense of conical projectiles as an option, and why they are probably a longer range projectile all other things being equal (better sectional density = better BC). The big constraint, in addition to the sights and the skill of the shooter, is the behavior of black powder and how much one can safely use in a rifle.

Fitch
 
frwillia said:
paia said:
http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/phpBB ... ight=swiss

Here's a thread on some velocity tests I did last summer. The computer calculators are fun but there is no substitute for testing the stuff yourself. An inexpensive $100 chronograph is fun to use and eye opening--it's worth the $$ IMO if you are really into this stuff.

I need to get out and test the Swiss 3F in my flinter. I did chrono Goex 2F and 3F in it before, but that was years ago.

Thanks for that data. Nicely done! (It was clearly done on a day much warmer than today!)

I absolutely agree there is no substitute for test data (I have a CED chronograph that has thousands of center fire rounds thorugh it), and models not validated by test data are almost useless. I also use a program called "OnTarget" (a free download) to analyze every target when I'm doing load development for my centerfires, and will doubless do the same for my muzzle loader. I'm what some would call a dataholic.

Alas, relying only on test data means one has to have and shoot all candidates under all conditions to make a decision with out filling in missing data with fantasy (there is a lot of fantasy on the WEB). The benefit of analysis combined with testing to validate the analysis is that it makes possible a lot of "what-if" trade-offs that fill in missing data with analytically derrived data, which is generally much better than fantasy or guessing, with out the time and expense of actually building the "what-if" rifle and shooting it.

That said, one must also be aware of the multiple sources of error in modeling and use the results accordingly. I spent 35 years in aerospace as an space power systems enginner, most of the time trying to figure out how to do things that had never been done before. Trust me on this, if it wasn't for "both" analysis and test, we'd never have gotten it done. But I digress.

I was especially glad to see the test data with the Swiss powder, I have only data (Miller K-values) for something called 1.5F1 Swiss powder in QuickLoad, nothing for FFFg or FFg versions of Swiss powder. Having your data will enable me to calibrate a powder's Miller K-value against a bullet weight and barrel length and perhaps get some idea of performance in other than the conditions you tested.

I won't be surprised if essentially equivelant accuracy happens at approximately the same muzzle velocities. Repeatability is dependent on both the dynamics of the powder and the dynamic behavior of the rifle in response to the loads imposed by the internal ballistics process, in addition to the skill of the shooter.

Looking at how muzzle loaders are built, and the opportunity for flex and shifting in the stock, I am also not surprised that best accuracy usually comes at powder charges well below maximum because the rifle has a lot of opportunity to gyrate while the bullet is making it's way to the muzzle. I suspect a very slow motion video of a muzzleloader being fired would be interesting to watch.

The more I analyze this technology the more sense it makes that the traditional rifles evolved to be like they are (big bores, long barrels, optimized for accuracy with PRB projectiles). Long barrels make a significant difference in muzzle velocity and energy in traditional rifles. When the projectile has all the ballistic sophistication of a ping-pong ball, it makes sense to get it out of the barrrel as fast as one can. With in the limits of practacality, longer barrels are faster than shorter ones.

I can also see the sense of conical projectiles as an option, and why they are probably a longer range projectile all other things being equal (better sectional density = better BC). The big constraint, in addition to the sights and the skill of the shooter, is the behavior of black powder and how much one can safely use in a rifle.

Fitch

:shock: You are a "dataholic," but shooting flintlocks isn't rocket science and big patched round balls kill deer better than any computer model says they should. Have fun.
 
A 1-48" twist 50cal will shoot patched round balls, maxiballs, and sabots. Patched round balls are the least expensive to shoot, and you can cast your own if you're so inclined.

I suppose that the same could be said for the 54cal, but with less sabots to choose from. On the other hand, the 54cal is decidedly more effective with just a PRB than smaller calibers, and is a good compromise of mass vs velocity when compared against 50cal and 58cal.

Keep in mind that if you're shooting sabots, you'll likely need to wipe the bore between shots. This isn't necessary with good PRB loads.

The Lyman Great Plains rifle is a well made, mass produced rifle, and I would much prefer it to a TC Hawken. It has a longer barrel for higher velocities, a longer sight radius, and looks like a real Hawken. For a flintlock, I would just opt for the 54cal and shoot PRBs.

BTW, use real BP in a flintlock in both the barrel and pan.

After you shoot a flinter for a while, I think you'll realize them to be a 100 yard rifle under the best of conditions. Flint ignition at its best can rival a percussion gun for quickness, but most aren't that quick. Slower ignition and lack of follow through on the shooter's part will show on the target range.
 
excess650 said:
A 1-48" twist 50cal will shoot patched round balls, maxiballs, and sabots. Patched round balls are the least expensive to shoot, and you can cast your own if you're so inclined.

I suppose that the same could be said for the 54cal, but with less sabots to choose from. On the other hand, the 54cal is decidedly more effective with just a PRB than smaller calibers, and is a good compromise of mass vs velocity when compared against 50cal and 58cal.

Keep in mind that if you're shooting sabots, you'll likely need to wipe the bore between shots. This isn't necessary with good PRB loads.

The Lyman Great Plains rifle is a well made, mass produced rifle, and I would much prefer it to a TC Hawken. It has a longer barrel for higher velocities, a longer sight radius, and looks like a real Hawken. For a flintlock, I would just opt for the 54cal and shoot PRBs.

BTW, use real BP in a flintlock in both the barrel and pan.

After you shoot a flinter for a while, I think you'll realize them to be a 100 yard rifle under the best of conditions. Flint ignition at its best can rival a percussion gun for quickness, but most aren't that quick. Slower ignition and lack of follow through on the shooter's part will show on the target range.

I agree.

My muzzle loader will be a flintlock. Nothing else makes any sense for me here in PA.

With all the good input I've come to the conclusion it will be a relatively long barreled slow twist .54 caliber shooting PRB with real black powder. It's sort of like trying to bring down a deer with a ball pien hammer - bigger, swung harder is better. paia is right, it isn't rocket science, but it takes some study for a new guy to figure it out.

I don't want to spend the money on a custom or semi-custom rifle so it will be a good quality production gun with a peep sight - the Lyman Great Plains equipped with their peep sight should be just about perfect. A longer barrel might be better that that one is long enough, and the rifle has a good reputation.

That is quite a different end point than where I started.

Thanks to all who contributed to my "education". I have a couple more questions, but they should be in a different thread.

Fitch
 
I am from PA as well and have an RMC rifle with 24" and 28" barrels for it; both are 1/28 twist. My rifle has a L&R lock on it; not a Chambers. They may have made some with Chambers Siler locks but I have never seen one.

I like sabots and use 200 grain .430 Hornady's over 80 grains of Goex 3f in the 24" barrel; I use it the most of the two because it's so handy and most of my hunting is still hunting/deer drives. The longer barrel gets 100 grains of Goex 3f and I use Hornady xtp's in it as well. Mostly 250 grain .452 because I have a bunch but next purchase will be .430 240 grains. I took a couple deer with 300 grainers as well but don't expand as much as I like. They all group really well. I use the longer barrel when I plan on stand hunting. Last year I took a doe at 150 yards with the short barrel and a 250 xtp over 100 grains of 3f, but I don't think it burns it all so I went to a lighter bullet and 80 grains of 3f. I took a doe at 68 paces with that load and it folded up like a suitcase.

If I were jump shooting deer (which I don't) I would probably use the Hornady Great Plains bullets for a bit more thump but for careful shots into the vitals the sabots work like majic and have little recoil in comparision to the heavy conicals.

I don't like real long barrels and if I were going to shoot roundballs I would choose the .54 with a 28-32" barrel in a half stock. It would handle well enough and still have good power. Roundball is far more influenced by wind than either sabots or conicals and rapidly lose power; but again that .530 diameter of soft lead still gets it done quite well.

Now; since your just starting to think about what you want to shoot why not do what I do. I have a carbine length stalking barrel in 28 twist; I have a longer 28 twist for heavier bullet and charges for longest range and I have a roundball twist barrel all for the same stock.
 
mossie said:
I am from PA as well and have an RMC rifle with 24" and 28" barrels for it; both are 1/28 twist.

<snip>

Now; since your just starting to think about what you want to shoot why not do what I do. I have a carbine length stalking barrel in 28 twist; I have a longer 28 twist for heavier bullet and charges for longest range and I have a roundball twist barrel all for the same stock.

I like the concept.

I've thought about doing something like that, but with the Lyman GPH/GP. If barrels from the Great Plains and Great Plains Hunter are interchangable one could pick up a .54CAL GP barrel with 1:60" twist, put on the Hunter for shooting PRB, put the .54CAL 1:32" twist Hunter barrel back on for REAL, Prarie, one of the Lyman or Lee mold bullets, or the Hornady 425g Great Plains hollow point, or <whatever>.

I wouldn't mind casting my own. I have some casting equipment that Dad and I used to use for his muzzle loaders. I can get pure soft lead and cast 450g bullets for ~ 7 cents each - lighter ones would be less expensive.

I talked to the folks at Ft. Chambers today, will probably visit them Wednesday or Thrusday. They regularely stock the Lyman GPH and GP. They will know if the barrels are interchangeable or not. I would think changing barrels is a less expensive than having two rifles and it would provide good shooting variety.

The Lyman Great Plains series is looking better and better. I'll get to handle them at Ft. Chambers on my next visit.

Fitch
 
I have a 54 Deerstalker in 54 in both flint and percussion. They also have the Lyman peep you really don't need a ghost ring I just remove the insert. I get good groups with PRB and conical's.
 
I also hunt the late season in Pa. I bought a deerstalker in 54 cal and wanted to shoot conicals. I had a hard time finding a variety of conicals to choose from and the conicals that I found were pretty heavy,lots of recoil.In 54 the smallest conicals found were great plains 395 gr ,which shoot good but if I would do it over would buy a 50 cal,just my opinion.I bought a 50 cal great plains hunter that shoots very well, very accurate with 385 gr hornady great plains conicals,also with the 1/32 twist will shoot hornady sabots 300 gr xtp.You can also buy another barrel for 54 cal 1/60 twist to drop right in at mid south shoots supply and shoot prb.Just food for thought I love mine very happy and satisfied with performance.My boy just inherited my deerstalker....lol !!!
 
Just my personal opinion but if I had a .54 caliber rifle, and was only hunting whitetail deer.. I never saw a deer yet that a roundball will not harvest. Granted I shot them with 300 grain REAL conical and 380 grain REALS and for a while was kind of hooked on the big Buffalo Bullet Conicals, but most of them were shot with a roundball. And it killed them dead...
 

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