Knight Rifle Won't stay Cocked

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Douglas

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I have a Bighorn and at times when I pull the bolt back it won't stay cocked. Also when it does cock I can screw in the second safety where it should not shoot and it will go off. Is this problem in the bolt or the trigger?
 
When is the last time you took the trigger out and with some brake cleaner really cleaned the devil out of it? All I know is my LK acted like you described only worse. It got to where I couldn't pull the bolt. So I took the trigger out, and with brake cleaner went outside and (put some goggles on) and sprayed into the trigger, shook it out, and did this a few times until I blew all the gunk out of it. Then just let it dry and one drop of good oil inside the trigger area. Put it back in and my rifle worked fine.
 
I cleaned it with some electrical cleaner but didn't know if I should oil it. someone at work told me not to oil it. Where do you put the oil on it at?
 
In the trigger housing you see a small spring like between the metal side plates of the trigger. I like you put a drop of oil right in there.
 
One other thing you can try After the flush as cayuga suggested is to then Flush it again with lighter fluid. I keep a bottle of Ronsonol lighter fluid in my tool box just for that purpose. If not mistaken it has mineral spirits in it and that is plenty to lube a trigger. This is what Arnold Jewel of Jewel Triggers told me to use in triggers, especially their triggers.
 
ShawnT said:
One other thing you can try After the flush as cayuga suggested is to then Flush it again with lighter fluid. I keep a bottle of Ronsonol lighter fluid in my tool box just for that purpose. If not mistaken it has mineral spirits in it and that is plenty to lube a trigger. This is what Arnold Jewel of Jewel Triggers told me to use in triggers, especially their triggers.


I never heard of that but that's good information. Old dogs can learn new tricks! :mrgreen:
 
cayuga said:
ShawnT said:
One other thing you can try After the flush as cayuga suggested is to then Flush it again with lighter fluid. I keep a bottle of Ronsonol lighter fluid in my tool box just for that purpose. If not mistaken it has mineral spirits in it and that is plenty to lube a trigger. This is what Arnold Jewel of Jewel Triggers told me to use in triggers, especially their triggers.


I never heard of that but that's good information. Old dogs can learn new tricks! :mrgreen:
It something I learned shooting in Benchrest Matches, most benches will always have a bottle of lighter fluid on them. I shot at the Super Shoot in Ohio (for the Benchrest Community it is like the Super Bowel, 460 shooters from all over the world attend). I helped remove a Jewel trigger from another shooters rifle that would not let the rifle stay cocked. He was the President of Precision Shooting Magazine. A little while Later he brought Arnold Jewel over and the first thing he asked for was Ronsonol lighter fluid. After flushing and checking the adjustments we reinstalled it and it worked like new. Since then I have used nothing else in my triggers.
 
Thank you both for your answers. I tried it and it still is not working. I think I need to buy a new trigger but my bolt is OK? Don't want to spend $90 dollars only to find that is not the problem?
 
Douglas said:
Thank you both for your answers. I tried it and it still is not working. I think I need to buy a new trigger but my bolt is OK? Don't want to spend $90 dollars only to find that is not the problem?

Is this a new rifle, or older model? If a new model have you tried contacting Knight?

It might be hard to diagnose it without seeing the rifle. It sounds like a problem with the sear not raising all the way up to catch the plunger. Take the trigger out and look at the top. There is a pin that goes across the 2 side frames of the trigger that stops the sear from pivoting up too high, see if the sear contacts that pin when the trigger is out of the rifle. If not there is something hanging it up or possibly a broken spring. I had a problem with one that the sear did not come up to touch the pin due to a small burr down in the trigger body. You should also be able to push down on the sear and it move smoothly down, with the trigger pulled back, and come back up on it's own from the spring that pushes it up. Also check the condition of the top of the sear that contacts the plunger.
 
Older but only about 5 or 6 years old. Bought it used from a co worker but he only fired it about 6 or 8 times. I have shot it about 30 times. Knight said to send the whole gun in and for $300 they would fix the trigger. Plus I pay shipping. They won't sell just a trigger. I cleaned it again and oiled it and it is cocking every time now. But it has a double safety. When you screw in the bolt it should not go off.
When I click the safety to fire and pull the trigger the gun will fire . Even with bolt screwed in. Is that the trigger or is that the bolt?
 
Douglas said:
When you screw in the bolt it should not go off.
When I click the safety to fire and pull the trigger the gun will fire . Even with bolt screwed in. Is that the trigger or is that the bolt?
I "Think" I know what you mean here but correct me if I am mis-understanding. When you say screw in the "Bolt" are you talking about the screw in knob (Secondary Safety) on the end of the plunger? IF you are, then yes the plunger will still fall forward when the trigger is pulled, BUT, it should not actually contact the cap. The real purpose of the screw in secondary safety is to "Shorten" the plunger so that it can never contact the cap that is on the nipple. The plunger should only contact the cap when the secondary safety is screwed all the way out/back. Unless some type of very long nipple was placed in the rifle, or some odd plunger was put in the rifle, it should not contact the cap. IF it is then you need to make sure that the Breech plug is screwed all the way in and that the correct nipple is screwed all the way into the breech plug.

Have you actually had the rifle fire a cap "With" the secondary safety screwed all the way in? OR are you just assuming it will fire since the plunger does fall forward. The Lever safety is the only safety that prevents the trigger from being pulled back and allowing the plunger to fall forward.

You can check this operation at home. WITHOUT loading a charge of powder, screw the secondary safety all the way in and place a cap on the nipple. Now point the rifle in a safe direction move the Primary lever safety into the fire position, and pull the trigger. If that cap is popped, you have a problem. IF the cap does not Pop it is working a intended.
 
You were right and the cap does not pop, (back in business) Thank you again for all the help and it is time to go shooting again.
 
Douglas said:
You were right and the cap does not pop, (back in business) Thank you again for all the help and it is time to go shooting again.
:yeah: No Problem. Glad to help! Enjoy it the Knight plunger rifles are great rifles.
 
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