Sighting in: Probably using the wrong procedure

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City Rat

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Ok I have searched and found a fair number of threads with folks seeking help sighting in their smokepoles. Perhaps I am missing it or there is a ML specific way to skin the cat that I am not aware of for sighting in. Here is the method that I use and have used successfully on both my rimfire and centerfire rifles.
1) Once scope is mounted and bore sighted, I take my Lead Sled out to the outdoor bench and set up a paper target at 25yds.
2) I fire a round to find my point of impact POI.
3) without moving the rifle or the rest adjust the scope so that the crosshairs are dead on the POI, thereby matching POA with POI.
4) fire another round to confirm that POA and POI are sync'd up
5) then begin to work either windage or elevation, or both, to move your POI/POA from wherever it is on paper to the center bullseye. Again ideally you haven't moved the rifle or the rest at all.

The problem that I am encountering is that I have to move the ML constantly to clean and reload making it difficult to get POI and POA on the same sheet of music. Because everyone else seems to be getting theirs sighted in and are able to shot MOA groups out to infinity, I must be doing this all incorrectly and I would appreciate some advice. Thanks,
 
That's the way I do it. No lead sled but good bags I shoot off of. Are u not getting good groups?

I see u have a Wolf listed, is that the rifle u are using? What powder and bullet?
 
Pretty much the same procedure I use but my club don't allow rifles closer then 50 yrds. I do not worry too much about a "Perfect" zero till I got a load that groups they way I want. So I just get the scope close to the bull, then work on loads, once the load shoots good groups then I adjust to the zero I want. You don't really state if the load is working or not though. Are you trying to adjust the scope on every shot? If so you can get to chasing your tail if the load is not grouping well.
 
Once you shoot at 25yds, just hold the gun still and dial the scope crosshairs over to the hole. Then when you shoot again (aiming at the bull) you shoot hit where you aim. Now back up to 50, 75, 100 - whatever you want...aim at the bull, see where you are. Say you are 2" low, 1" right... adjust clicks according to your scope.

As Shawn mentioned, once you are close you can start shooting for groups (finding a good load) vs trying to get all the shots dead on. Once you find what your gun like best (as in best groups), adjust the scope to where you want it to be.. like dead on at 100, 1" high at 100, etc... whatever fits your hunting.

Don't over complicate it. :D
 
Just skimmed over, but I don't understand this 'not moving the rifle' stuff. Seems you have a few extraneous steps mixed in.

When 1st getting a gun lined up(newly mounted scope etc.) I will adjust the scope some with single shots. These first few are shorter range, 25-50 yards, with a larger target.

Once your getting close, say a 3 shot group has an average impact of 4" left, 2" low at 50 yards. If that is the case, adjust the scope 'right and up'. You adjust the scope how you want to change the impact point.

Lower cost and midlin scopes will not routinely adjust to '1 click = 1/4" at 100 yards' or whatever. You have to do whatever it takes.

Nothing wrong with bore-sighting ahead of time, I don't consider it essential. I don't see how one would not move the gun, especially with reloading. Make sure you have a workable and controlled group at the medium ranges before venturing further. Nothing worse than adjusting the scope without a repeatable, consistent grouping.
 
Just sighted in 2 scopes Saturday. I don't bother bore sighting and just start at 25 yards, shoot a shot and estimate through the scope how far it is from the bull and adjust scope accordingly. Shoot another shot and adjust if needed. Once I'm close I move the target out to 100 yards and fine tune the scope.
 

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