Idaholewis
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- Jun 30, 2017
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For shooting Paper Patched bullets i believe a good over powder wad to be one of the most important things you can do, I prefer .060 Thou Vegetable Fibre Over Powder Wads, But Wool felt will work well also, if using Wool felt go up in size, Example: if using a Wool felt wad in my .45 Cal i actually use a .50 Cal wool felt wad in my .45, and in my .50 i use a .54 Cal Wool felt wad, and in my .54s i use a .58 Cal wool felt wad. Create the best possible gas seal you can behind that bullet!!!
I also weigh my powder charges on a beam scale and place them in small vials, Example: i will check weigh 3 or 4 80 Volume charges on my beam scale to get an average of what 80 Volume of the specific powder i am using is weighing in Weight grains (P.S. Pyrodex is completely different Volume to weight! If you plan to try this, it is an ABSOLUTE MUST that you check weigh each can of powder From Volumetric to Weght Grains, NEVER GUESS this!) I much prefer this method of pre weighing my charges, I usually shoot no more than 10-12 shots on an outing, it takes me just a few minutes the evening before, or that morning to weigh out my charges to the 10th of a Grain and place them in vials, then i am not having to mess with it while loading, its already done and ready to load. Weighing by Weight Grain on a Quality trusted beam Scale is simply a lot more accurate than dumping powder in a Volume measure, sure you can get reasonably close, but why not have each powder charge identical for each shot?
The next thing is Bullet weight, i check weigh EVERY single bullet and will only keep the bullets that weigh 1 Grain of eachother, anything else goes back in the Melting pot, i want my bullets as close to identical as i can get them!! The Buffalo Arms bullets i buy are EXTREMELY tight tolerance, they are to the 10th of a grain, and no more than a half grain of eachother, These Buffalo Arms bullets are Swaged from Lead wire, These are NOT poured from a lead pot! This is obviously why they are so Spot on in weight.
I have always said, Create a GOOD REPEATABLE Gas seal behind the Bullet EVERY SINGLE time, And if you KNOW your powder is Consistent, and your bullets weigh the same, ACCURACY WILL FOLLOW as long as you do YOUR part as the Shooter.
I also weigh my powder charges on a beam scale and place them in small vials, Example: i will check weigh 3 or 4 80 Volume charges on my beam scale to get an average of what 80 Volume of the specific powder i am using is weighing in Weight grains (P.S. Pyrodex is completely different Volume to weight! If you plan to try this, it is an ABSOLUTE MUST that you check weigh each can of powder From Volumetric to Weght Grains, NEVER GUESS this!) I much prefer this method of pre weighing my charges, I usually shoot no more than 10-12 shots on an outing, it takes me just a few minutes the evening before, or that morning to weigh out my charges to the 10th of a Grain and place them in vials, then i am not having to mess with it while loading, its already done and ready to load. Weighing by Weight Grain on a Quality trusted beam Scale is simply a lot more accurate than dumping powder in a Volume measure, sure you can get reasonably close, but why not have each powder charge identical for each shot?
The next thing is Bullet weight, i check weigh EVERY single bullet and will only keep the bullets that weigh 1 Grain of eachother, anything else goes back in the Melting pot, i want my bullets as close to identical as i can get them!! The Buffalo Arms bullets i buy are EXTREMELY tight tolerance, they are to the 10th of a grain, and no more than a half grain of eachother, These Buffalo Arms bullets are Swaged from Lead wire, These are NOT poured from a lead pot! This is obviously why they are so Spot on in weight.
I have always said, Create a GOOD REPEATABLE Gas seal behind the Bullet EVERY SINGLE time, And if you KNOW your powder is Consistent, and your bullets weigh the same, ACCURACY WILL FOLLOW as long as you do YOUR part as the Shooter.