Weigh your powder.

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I've weighted out some pellects after crushing them and have 90 grn.loads set up not sure what i will shoot round balls or conicals,will try both out to 50 yds. to see which groups best in my traditions .50 cal 1:48 twist havn't shot it yet,here you can't shot pellet powder charges very well with it.I really beleave you should weigh your loads tho.
 
I;m not sure how good of an idea it is to crush pellets and burn them. I guess if I was looking to burn granulated powder I'd just buy it.
 
Bearman 49 said:
I've weighted out some pellects after crushing them and have 90 grn.loads set up not sure what i will shoot round balls or conicals,will try both out to 50 yds. to see which groups best in my traditions .50 cal 1:48 twist havn't shot it yet,here you can't shot pellet powder charges very well with it.I really beleave you should weigh your loads tho.
What brand of pellets? If Pyrodex or 777 they were not meant to be crushed.
I am pretty sure cracked pellets can cause sharp spikes in pressure and should not be shot.
 
Bearman, PLEASE take heed to what mr Tom and shawnt said. We would hate to see you or a bystander be injured or killed.

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You gentlemen are right just took a book out of the library and was reading about granulation pressures,glad i did so who would think that different size make for a different pressure.2fg for my powders,old book from 1995 but still a lot of stuff i like to know.thank you.
 
I see so many drop two pellets down the barrel seat the bullets then slam the ram rod up and down several times I never use pellets I weigh all my charges on a beam scale
 
Wow why would You Not want to have the projectile Not Up again the Power as a better with no Gap between the Projectile / Sabot? It has Always been to get the Sabot tight up Again the Powder. And that suggests you would slightly Crush the Powder? So how Do You Know that the Sabot / Projectile is actually Seated and why most Mark their Ram Rod to get said Projectile / Sabot Tight to Pellets or Powder??? As it was always suggest to have the Sabot Tight and that suggests you push it again the powder and that would "crush" the Pellet some because they are not Tight because they slide down when they are dropped in to the barrel slight would you Pour loose powder down your Barrel. This seems to be a contradiction to what is and has been always mention to have the Sabot / Projectile Rammed down otherwise why would you Want any Kind Of Gap between them??????????
Guess things have Changed!

LFM
 
Precisely weighing powder charges has ALWAYS made the best sense to me from my Very Beginning in Muzzleloaders, I carried this over from my EXTENSE work with Precision Centerfire/Reloading (30 years or a little better) A field measure (Volumetric) was designed to get you “Close Enough” For Field use. This is the question i asked myself, “Would you trust a Volumetric Measure for your Precision Centerfire Rifles?” The Answer was ABSOLUTELY NOT! So why would i trust one with my Precision Muzzleloaders? My Muzzleloader charges are precisely weighed on a Beam Scale, Sometimes i use my Little Digital for Convenience, But it’s Hard for me to Trust a Digital Scale for my Powder, The times i use my Digital Scale i Check weigh a Certified weight every other Charge.

My feeling is, We get out of this what we put in it. If close enough is good enough for you? That is all that matters :lewis: But If you are looking to get the absolute most out of your Rifle, make EVERY Shot as Close as you possibly can to eachother. Powder charges identical, Bullet weights within a 1/2 Grain of eachother etc.
 
Ditto Idaholewis. I too have handloaded metallic cartridges for years. You weigh your powder. Period.
 
Go to any short range bench test match and you will find everyone using precision Culver type powder measures to throw their charges. Conversely, long rangers will all weight charges. A tenth of a grain difference of N133 with a 66 grain 6mm bullet at 100 or 200 yards will not change POI......but at 600 or 1K it will show vertical.
Long stick powders will not throw as consistently as short grain, flake or ball powders.
 
I weigh mine but if i had a Redding 3BR or Harrells measure i would not hesitate to use it for many CF powders or BH209. Many competitive CF shooters measure by volume to achieve a full case. Obviously this is not an issue with a muzzleloader. Your "case" should always be full or compressed. The projectile should always be on the powder or a filler (such as a wad) in the case of a muzzle loader.
 
I guess this is why I keep Losing Interest in Muzzleloadering. All the Extra Things One has to do just to take a shot or 2 when I can Just go by a Box of Centerfire Cartridges and Shoot & Hunt and don't need a special tools whether a Scale to weigh my powder or measure my powder by volume to get a consistent amount of Powder and consistently group my shots that are worth knowing I can make the shot and take a Deer! There seems to be too much on how a Person measures their Powder and Many talk like YOU HAVE To Weigh It Is is THE ONLY WAY when I was here years ago there was a little talk but it was more about measuring your Powder by Volume sure those that are Relaoders that have all these Specialty Tools and Weigh there powder Great but I Like the KIS Factor "Keep It Simple" and I when I see so many talk like Weighing is the ONLY Way makes me still wonder how many others have only measured their Powder by Volume and have had good Groups on Paper to get their ML Set Up and Find the Right Amount that works best in their chosen Muzzleloader whether Knight, CVA, T/C, White, Remington or whatever one they have decided to use. It Should be Accepted which ever way you do Measure your Powder Should be Accepted as long as we enjoy Shooting our ML and have good groups when we do shoot that is all that should matter. When We do it either by weight or by volume as some are into ML more than others are and just like to Hunt with our Muzzleloader and enjoy getting it grouping well and have confidence that if given the opportunity to take a shot at Big Game we can Squeeze the Trigger and know we can Hit the Spot... regardless if we Weigh or Measure by Volume it is all Muzzleloading... Guess that is why I loose interest as I read these Threads and some talk like you can Only Weigh you Powder anything else sounds like you are Doing It All WRONG. when years back it was the Shooters Choice nothing more... From this Thread again You HAVE To Weigh it Otherwise you aren't doing It Right... As I Read It...
LFM
 
Post #30, (last paragraph). It is still the shooters choice.
 
If I was strictly using my ML for hunting, the only thing my scale would be used for is adjusting my Harrell's powder measure..........on the other hand, if you are really into long(er) range bench rest type accuracy, then scaling your charges is almost a "must!". The fact that even the best of the best ML bullets such as those made by Kyle Pittman and Dennis of Fury bullets have a relatively low (in comparison to CF bullets) BC and flat base, velocities need to have the lowest ES's possible. Equal powder charges and precise bullet to bore fit is essential. Since I am not hunting now, I concentrate on squeezing all the accuracy I can out of my SML so yes, I weight my charges. In three weeks I will be up in Kentucky bench shooting out to 400 yards for score and group. Killing a deer at 300 to 400 yards with powder measure thrown charges is a piece of cake but shooting a .668" three shot group at 300 is another story.....and, I have shrunk that to under 1/2" occasionally with weighted charges.
 
Will NEVER Weigh any Powder!!! As I am Only Using My DISC ELITE For Hunting!
See No Reason for "Weighing"!
LFM
 
I hunt and shoot long range and will always weight loose propellant.
If you only shoot to hunt, then there's no reason. Weighing is just one less contributing factor towards tighter groups.
 
So Much for Shooting my Disc Elite too many conflicting Ideas here some Say You Have To Others Say Not Really and So On Will Stick with my Center Cartridge Rifles just to many things to get an Accurcate / Tight Grouping ML when I get that With my Other Rifles and just slide in a Cartridge. Guess ML is not for All Just those that have the Scales and Time to get It Right... Doubt I will be back and maybe why I left years back . A lot to do just to squeeze the Trigger on a Muzzleloader.
LFM
 
I get a kick out of people that Act like precisely Weighing a Powder Charge is a BIG BAD Time Consuming process :rolleyes: It takes me less than 2 minutes (probably 1 Minute, I haven’t timed it?) To weigh each of my charges on a Beam Scale, I usually do this the night before i shoot, It takes me longer than that to fiddle dick around with a Volume powder Measure out in the Field, “tap tap tap” trying to get consistency, then cut the top off and Throw a Little powder away. My powder charges are already done, A Big step I don’t have to mess with in the Field :lewis:

Let’s say we have our Rifle Dialed in, We obviously know the Load for this particular Rifle, Lets say it’s 60 Grains. Which looks easier to use in the Field? Pretty self explanatory if you ask me :lewis: Not only are Pre weighed charges MUCH faster, they are MUCH more precise.

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