What do I need to shoot my rifle?

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That's a good list.

As a newbie I will add:

Lots of time and elbow grease. :yeah:
 
cayuga said:
Batchief909 said:
You left out Swiss...... :twisted:

That's only because Swiss is for sophisticated shooter such as ourselves. Them new shooters just can not appreciate the quality of Swiss Black Powder. They have to burn a few pounds of the inferior stuff before we clue them in on the quality stuff.. :mrgreen:


I love Swiss but i can't find it.
where do you get yours?
 
I order it on line when I pick up a case of powder. I have them change out some Swiss for other powder. And getting a large order helps with the haz mat fee. I purchase from Graf's and Sons.
 
Great list and if you don't mind I''ll cut/paste excerpts as a handout for our youth muzzleloader program.
Thanks
 
I shoot a T/C Strike using BH 209 powder and a CCI 209 primer to propel a Harvester 300 grain PT gold with their black crushed rib sabot. It is a solid 200-yard shooter and if I had a conveniently located range longer than 200 yards, I’d have a longer opinion.

Get a short starter, nipple pick, I weight all my loads not volume (which is ok), patches, Hoppe’s #9, gun oil, quick loaders that hold bullet, powder, and primer in separate compartments, Q-tips, and a good dry box to carry it all in.
 
I noticed cayuga mentioned flintlocks in the first post so I thought I might add a bit of information about shooting them for those who are interested.

FLINTLOCKS:

A properly set up flintlock is a bit slower when it comes to firing than the more modern but they aren't anything like the ones you see in the movies where it takes several seconds to fire after the trigger is pulled. Studies in the speed they fire shows that the time between the flint falling and the gun firing is usually around 10 to 15 thousandths of a second. That's .010 to .015 seconds.
The percussion guns shooting #11 caps usually take about 5 thousandths of a second and modern cartridge target guns fire about 1 thousandth of a second after the trigger is pulled.
Although .010 of a second is very fast, you will notice it does take a bit longer to fire so learning how to follow thru with the shot after the trigger is pulled is very important. This following thru by the way should be done with all muzzleloaders and if you've mastered it, it will carry thru to your habits in shooting all guns. That can greatly improve all of your shooting.

Anyway, my main reason for posting this is to tell anyone who is interested in getting a flintlock, they have one thing that can cause a problem. They do not work well with ANY of the modern synthetic powders. The only gunpowder that works well in a flintlock is real black powder.
The problem with this is, most stores do not sell real black powder any more.

Unlike the synthetic black powders on the market today which are considered as "propellants", real black powder is classified as an explosive so many Federal regulations come into play when we are talking about it. In order to sell real black powder, the person must have a Federal Explosive License, the powder must be kept under lock and key in Federally approved storage lockers and only be brought out of them at the time of a sale. Because of this, you won't see real black powder sitting on a shelf in your local gun store, even if they have it. (Most don't.)
Because real black powder can't be out on the shelf with other powders, you will have to ask for it. It's best to ask the store owner or manager because often a sales clerk won't even know the store sells it.
In most States, you can order real black powder on the web but be forewarned, if you do buy it this way the delivery company will charge you a "Hazardous Materials Fee" which can be as much as $25. This same fee applies to orders from 1 pound to the Federal limit of 50 pounds.

Getting back to talking about using modern synthetic powders in a flintlock, all of the synthetic black powders have a higher ignition temperature than real black powder does.
This higher temperature requirement will cause the flame from the pan flash to fail to ignite synthetic black powder in the barrel. Some synthetic powders claim to work in flintlocks but if you read the instructions for powders like Pyrodex and 777 you will see that they recommend putting a charge of 5 or so grains of real black powder down the barrel before you load the synthetic powder. Doing this will allow the real black powder to light and set off the synthetic black powder charge.
An example of the problems using a synthetic black powder can cause happened when I took my custom flintlock to the range and unintentionally loaded it with Pyrodex in the barrel and 4F black powder in the pan. When I pulled the trigger, the pan flashed almost instantly but the gun didn't fire. It took three more pan fulls of powder before the gun fired.
Grumbling a bit, I loaded the rifle again. This time it took two flashes in the pan before it fired. That's when I took a close look at the powder I had loaded into my powder flask and realized it was Pyrodex instead of real black powder.

Synthetic black powders also do not work well in the flintlocks pan. A few sparks from the frizzen usually is not enough to cause it to ignite. When it does ignite, it often burns rather slowly out in the open like it is in the pan. The best description I can give is when a synthetic powder lights out in the open like it is in a flintlocks pan it goes, "Whoosh!" with a lot of flame.
Real black powder on the other hand goes, "POOF" in one instantaneous flash.
That flash is important because it has enough heat, power and speed to drive the flame front thru the vent hole into the barrels powder charge. The "Whoosh" of the synthetic powders often won't do this.

One last thing about real black powder. Only a licensed dealer can sell it. It is illegal for you or anyone else without this license to sell it to anyone. Technically you can give it away but you can't sell it.

I hope I didn't drive any of you away from the idea of owning and shooting a flintlock. They are one of the most enjoyable muzzleloaders to shoot and taking game with them can give the hunter satisfaction like no other form of hunting can (except perhaps for bow hunting). Taking a deer with a flintlock takes you back 200 years in time giving you the pleasure of knowing you did what your great, great, great, great grandfather did when he was hunting.
 
what ingredients are you looking for in the Windex - have some home depo brand - want to make sure it works - shoot in-line and sidelock triple 7 and pyrodex
Any “Windex” works great on black and the subs even dollar store glass cleaner. With BH 209 I would recommend their solvent, or just about any smokeless solvent. Since it is a nitro-cellulose based powder, just about any modern rifle cleaning solvent will work fine. Many prefer Hoppes #9
 

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