Do You Hunt With A Clean Barrel?

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Fiddler

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I always go hunting with a slightly-fouled barrel in my centerfire and rimfire rifles. This seems to reduce flyers during that all-important first shot.
Does the same rule apply to muzzleloaders?
Do you hunt with a clean or fouled barrel?
 
Until recently I fired off a primer or two and then loaded. However, I am now making sure the breech plug is clean and using a light coating of liquid graphite swabbed in the barrel. I read this thread last fall and tried it and it eliminated the first shot flier. Actually works like a charm!

Check it out:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=27635&p=213436&hilit=graphite#p213436
 
http://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=27635&p=213436&hilit=graphite#p213436

I'm optimistic the results are very good, even when applied prior and allowed to dry.
I'm just wondering what may occur inside the bore, after 3-4 days of hunting in the humid Midwest, using graphite lock-lube.

The idea to apply it - then load powder immediately afterwards, doesn't bode well with me. How much powder will grab-on the bore walls and stick to it, prior to the remainder being seated against the breechplug? Because I question the loss-amount, I prefer to let the bore dry first.
 
i used lock ease in my knight last year .. never had any problems with it rusting the barrel... WORM
 
Fiddler said:
I always go hunting with a slightly-fouled barrel in my centerfire and rimfire rifles. This seems to reduce flyers during that all-important first shot.
Does the same rule apply to muzzleloaders?
Do you hunt with a clean or fouled barrel?

Never! I always hunt with what I will call a 'semi-fouled' barrel.

Shooting a ML typically you can hunt with a clean barrel if the rifle is zeroed with a clean barrel because the first shot for most will be all that matters. Problem for me is there may be several other shots taken after that initial shot during a long hunting trip. I much prefer a 'semi-fouled' barrel. Not sure I would advise that if you are shooting real BP or any of the Pyro powders. I am shooting T7 and have never had a problem with corrosion if I do my part. Shooting BH-209 is even less of a problem. Both powders are corrosive or the residue is over time but after shooting simply neutralize the powder residue in the bore.
 
sabotloader said:
Fiddler said:
I always go hunting with a slightly-fouled barrel in my centerfire and rimfire rifles. This seems to reduce flyers during that all-important first shot.
Does the same rule apply to muzzleloaders?
Do you hunt with a clean or fouled barrel?

Never! I always hunt with what I will call a 'semi-fouled' barrel.

Shooting a ML typically you can hunt with a clean barrel if the rifle is zeroed with a clean barrel because the first shot for most will be all that matters. Problem for me is there may be several other shots taken after that initial shot during a long hunting trip. I much prefer a 'semi-fouled' barrel. Not sure I would advise that if you are shooting real BP or any of the Pyro powders. I am shooting T7 and have never had a problem with corrosion if I do my part. Shooting BH-209 is even less of a problem. Both powders are corrosive or the residue is over time but after shooting simply neutralize the powder residue in the bore.

How do you "neutralize" the powder residue in the bore?
 
CoHiCntry said:
sabotloader said:
Fiddler said:
I always go hunting with a slightly-fouled barrel in my centerfire and rimfire rifles. This seems to reduce flyers during that all-important first shot.
Does the same rule apply to muzzleloaders?
Do you hunt with a clean or fouled barrel?

Never! I always hunt with what I will call a 'semi-fouled' barrel.

Shooting a ML typically you can hunt with a clean barrel if the rifle is zeroed with a clean barrel because the first shot for most will be all that matters. Problem for me is there may be several other shots taken after that initial shot during a long hunting trip. I much prefer a 'semi-fouled' barrel. Not sure I would advise that if you are shooting real BP or any of the Pyro powders. I am shooting T7 and have never had a problem with corrosion if I do my part. Shooting BH-209 is even less of a problem. Both powders are corrosive or the residue is over time but after shooting simply neutralize the powder residue in the bore.

How do you "neutralize" the powder residue in the bore?
Was wondering the same thing. :huh?:
 
Do I hunt with a squeaky clean bore - NO! I hunt with what I will call a 'semi-clean' bore in fact the 'semi-clean' bore is in that state all hunting season. I have been using this same practice for several years with no ill effects at all. Note: I shoot T7 and/or BH-209

I also would indicate to you that were I shooting real BP or one of the Pyro's I would have to revisit this whole routine as they are so much more corrosive than T7 or BH. Were I shooting a blued barrel I would also need to be more diligent in what I am suggesting.

As I have indicated - the residue of the powder burning is the corrosive part of the equation and only when it gets wet with moisture and remains wet/damp. No moisture no corrosion. I in my little world also try to minimize the amount of residue in the bore + neutralize the residue that it there.

I believe there are several agents out there will do the job... A few of the more common are: Alcohol, Brake Cleaner, and my favorite regular Blue Windex - the Windex with a minimal amount of Ammonia in the solution. Ammonia is a natural metal stripper cleaner and the small amount of Ammonia in Windex will not etch or harm your bore + as it evaporates it carries moisture vapor with it.

So... my routine is normally before the season starts is to run to the farm shoot 3-5 shots to confirm the rifle is sighted in. Then I will run a couple of Windex patches (both sides) up and down a few times in the bore. This operations removes the bulk of the fouling in the bore - not all but most. At the same time the chemical reaction of the Ammonia, Alcohol, or brake cleaner with the remaining fouling will weaken and mostly neutralize the effects of the remaining Sulphur salts, and potassium ash in the bore. It is now my responsibility to keep the bore dry while hunting. If at anytime I feel that I got the bore wet I will either pull the load or shoot it out and repeat the process - this hardly ever happens but it could.

This pic shows how I prepare the Windex patches...



This is a question I was asked recently and the answer I provided...

Do you guys clean every time even after sighting-in/confirming zero before the season?

Most every BP shooter will tell you to clean well each time you shoot and if you are using real BP or any of the Pyro's I would say good plan! I shoot T7 and really do not do the then great clean each time, but it is something I have been doing for many years and have developed a routing that works for me. I will check the rifles zero in September and in most case t will not be really cleaned until the end of the hunting season. T7 IS corrosive but not anywhere close to real BP or the Pro's. What you really need to know is that the residue in the bore is what is corrosive. If you neutralize the residue as I do the corrosive ability is greatly reduced even to the point of being non-existent. So what it comes down to is I shoot a semi-fouled barrel. After shooting I will wipe the barrel with a damp blue Windex patch both sides. Allow the bore to dry if your patch is to wet and/or dry it with some dry patches. From there you can reload and go for it. BUT, if at anytime I feel I have gotten the bore wet while hunting - then I will re-do the whole process.

Here is another operation I do for cleaning...



Again this is what works for me shooting T7 in any Knight stainless barrels - you need to develop your own methods as we all have.
 
sabotloader said:
Do I hunt with a squeaky clean bore - NO! I hunt with what I will call a 'semi-clean' bore in fact the 'semi-clean' bore is in that state all hunting season. I have been using this same practice for several years with no ill effects at all. Note: I shoot T7 and/or BH-209

I also would indicate to you that were I shooting real BP or one of the Pyro's I would have to revisit this whole routine as they are so much more corrosive than T7 or BH. Were I shooting a blued barrel I would also need to be more diligent in what I am suggesting.

As I have indicated - the residue of the powder burning is the corrosive part of the equation and only when it gets wet with moisture and remains wet/damp. No moisture no corrosion. I in my little world also try to minimize the amount of residue in the bore + neutralize the residue that it there.

I believe there are several agents out there will do the job... A few of the more common are: Alcohol, Brake Cleaner, and my favorite regular Blue Windex - the Windex with a minimal amount of Ammonia in the solution. Ammonia is a natural metal stripper cleaner and the small amount of Ammonia in Windex will not etch or harm your bore + as it evaporates it carries moisture vapor with it.

So... my routine is normally before the season starts is to run to the farm shoot 3-5 shots to confirm the rifle is sighted in. Then I will run a couple of Windex patches (both sides) up and down a few times in the bore. This operations removes the bulk of the fouling in the bore - not all but most. At the same time the chemical reaction of the Ammonia, Alcohol, or brake cleaner with the remaining fouling will weaken and mostly neutralize the effects of the remaining Sulphur salts, and potassium ash in the bore. It is now my responsibility to keep the bore dry while hunting. If at anytime I feel that I got the bore wet I will either pull the load or shoot it out and repeat the process - this hardly ever happens but it could.

This pic shows how I prepare the Windex patches...



This is a question I was asked recently and the answer I provided...

Do you guys clean every time even after sighting-in/confirming zero before the season?

Most every BP shooter will tell you to clean well each time you shoot and if you are using real BP or any of the Pyro's I would say good plan! I shoot T7 and really do not do the then great clean each time, but it is something I have been doing for many years and have developed a routing that works for me. I will check the rifles zero in September and in most case t will not be really cleaned until the end of the hunting season. T7 IS corrosive but not anywhere close to real BP or the Pro's. What you really need to know is that the residue in the bore is what is corrosive. If you neutralize the residue as I do the corrosive ability is greatly reduced even to the point of being non-existent. So what it comes down to is I shoot a semi-fouled barrel. After shooting I will wipe the barrel with a damp blue Windex patch both sides. Allow the bore to dry if your patch is to wet and/or dry it with some dry patches. From there you can reload and go for it. BUT, if at anytime I feel I have gotten the bore wet while hunting - then I will re-do the whole process.

Here is another operation I do for cleaning...



Again this is what works for me shooting T7 in any Knight stainless barrels - you need to develop your own methods as we all have.


Great post
 
I mostly hunt with a clean barrel, usually just fire two primers. I do agree there can be some variation with shot impact, fouled to clean bore. One can test to see where they end up.

Most of my shooting is closer range, so just a bit of variation is of little consequence.
 
This topic has many opinions from individual experience.

Ive spent many hours talking with lab guys at western powder concerning blackhorn209 powder. While they completely agree many guns at the range will shoot tighter groups with a fouled barrel.
But blackhorn fouling left in barrel is extremely hydroscopic which is like a sponge with moisture.
They highly recommend not leaving blackhorn fouling in barrel.

So question what about clean bore accuracy hunting.
They recommend sighting for first shoot accuracy and then make correction for followup shot if needed.

Clean bore will repeat poi
Fouled bore will repeat poi
Fouled moisture rich bore wont repeat poi.

Just some thoughts
 
bestill said:
This topic has many opinions from individual experience.

Ive spent many hours talking with lab guys at western powder concerning blackhorn209 powder. While they completely agree many guns at the range will shoot tighter groups with a fouled barrel.
But blackhorn fouling left in barrel is extremely hydroscopic which is like a sponge with moisture.
They highly recommend not leaving blackhorn fouling in barrel.

So question what about clean bore accuracy hunting.
They recommend sighting for first shoot accuracy and then make correction for followup shot if needed.

Clean bore will repeat poi
Fouled bore will repeat poi
Fouled moisture rich bore wont repeat poi.

Just some thoughts

Interesting! I did not know that about BH - but adds another reason for me not to use it. Especially here in northern Idaho during our hunting season. + then there is the fact we can not use it during the ML season.
 
bestill said:
This topic has many opinions from individual experience.

Ive spent many hours talking with lab guys at western powder concerning blackhorn209 powder. While they completely agree many guns at the range will shoot tighter groups with a fouled barrel.
But blackhorn fouling left in barrel is extremely hydroscopic which is like a sponge with moisture.
They highly recommend not leaving blackhorn fouling in barrel.

So question what about clean bore accuracy hunting.
They recommend sighting for first shoot accuracy and then make correction for followup shot if needed.

Clean bore will repeat poi
Fouled bore will repeat poi
Fouled moisture rich bore wont repeat poi.

Just some thoughts

Interesting for sure. Thanks for posting that. I'm gonna rethink hunting with a BH209 fouled barrel. When I do hunt with a fouled barrel, it stays that way for a week or so until the seasons over unless I get lucky and get a shot. Like mentioned... at shorter ranges the poi change is minimal enough to not be a concern.
 
:think:

When I was still hunting with in lines, I would leave the barrel fouled for the entire season that went from the middle of Nov until the late winter hunt in Jan. My V2 SS and my V2 MR with the nitride barrel. I used Blackhorn 209 and TEZ's 290 grain with Fiocchi 209 primers and never had a problem.
When I sighted my rifles in with my Leupold scopes I would always fire off a cap or 2 just to make sure the breech plug was dry and clear so I sighted them in with fouled barrels. Never had a problem.......
This clean barrel question is more of an individual thing IMHO.

Ray................ :d'oh!:
 
bestill said:
This topic has many opinions from individual experience.

Ive spent many hours talking with lab guys at western powder concerning blackhorn209 powder. While they completely agree many guns at the range will shoot tighter groups with a fouled barrel.
But blackhorn fouling left in barrel is extremely hydroscopic which is like a sponge with moisture.
They highly recommend not leaving blackhorn fouling in barrel.

So question what about clean bore accuracy hunting.
They recommend sighting for first shoot accuracy and then make correction for followup shot if needed.

Clean bore will repeat poi
Fouled bore will repeat poi
Fouled moisture rich bore wont repeat poi.

Just some thoughts

I was looking at the Blackhorn website and one of their claims is that BH209 is "non-hygroscopic"??? I'm getting kind of confused. Here's where I saw it at... http://www.blackhorn209.com/specs/comparison/ Could it be that the powder itself isn't hygroscopic but the fouling is???
 
CoHiCntry said:
bestill said:
This topic has many opinions from individual experience.

Ive spent many hours talking with lab guys at western powder concerning blackhorn209 powder. While they completely agree many guns at the range will shoot tighter groups with a fouled barrel.
But blackhorn fouling left in barrel is extremely hydroscopic which is like a sponge with moisture.
They highly recommend not leaving blackhorn fouling in barrel.

So question what about clean bore accuracy hunting.
They recommend sighting for first shoot accuracy and then make correction for followup shot if needed.

Clean bore will repeat poi
Fouled bore will repeat poi
Fouled moisture rich bore wont repeat poi.

Just some thoughts

I was looking at the Blackhorn website and one of their claims is that BH209 is "non-hygroscopic"??? I'm getting kind of confused. Here's where I saw it at... http://www.blackhorn209.com/specs/comparison/ Could it be that the powder itself isn't hygroscopic but the fouling is???

That's correct not hydroscopic but fouling is
 
Never had a problem with BH fouling in a SS T/C barrel while leaving it loaded for two weeks.
Do what you feel is necessary for you and your rifle.
 
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