Paper Patch guestions

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No one on planet earth can argue with Idahoron’s success!! You will NEVER hear me say that Ron’s method does NOT work for him and others!! Ron used readily available stuff that he, or anyone could buy and not have to have custom stuff made, he spent a TON of time testing and perfecting both the RCBS 11MM bullet for his .45, and the Lee S&W 500 bullet for his .50 Cals, The simple fact is he made them work, and work well! Many people have followed it and have had the same great success (including myself!) i admit right off that i am a perfectionist kind of guy, and there were certain things that I personally didn’t like about Ron’s system, Stuck papers to the bullets was one my biggest pet peeves, EVEN THOUGH THEY SHOT GOOD it stil bothered me that it was happening, as a true paper patched bullet should NEVER do that, the papers should ‘Shuck’ away at the muzzle leaving the bullet perfectly naked to the target. I am confident the stuck paper problem is coming from the bullets being oversize from the molds and having to be pushed through sizers in order to fit and load, by having to size you are causing the paper to ‘Bite’ in to the lead, this is My other Gripe, the harsh sizing required.

I believe there is a reason that a true paper patch bullet for 45 cal is .442-.444, and a true paper patch bullet for .50 Cal is .492, They are designed to Wrap up to bore, i don’t believe the top shooters in the WORLD are using these bullet numbers because they look neat, there is a GOOD reason why our world class shooters are using them, THEY ARE WINNING MATCHES WITH THEM! This is what inspired me to have my custom molds built, I am shooting the BACO .444-400 bullet all the way out to 500 yards with my .45 Cal Hotrod Hawken 1:30 Twist, i have had such great luck with that bullet that i chose to have my custom molds for 45, 50, and 54 built to the same specs, this is why i chose .443-.444 for my Custom 45 mold, .493-494 for my custom .50 mold, and .533-534 for my custom 54 mold, this gives Tom at Accurate molds a TINY bit of wiggle room, the bullets drop from all 3 of my molds in these numbers, which i feel is optimum. My papers ‘Shuck’ away at the muzzle and will be found on the ground within 10 feet or so of the muzzle. I don’t need expensive custom sizer dies for my bullets, all i have to do is wrap and load them. I have several custom dies, but i rarely use them anymore, just no need for them with ANY of my custom bullets.

With my chosen method there is a LOT more room for error, for instance you could easily load SUPER HARD wheel weight lead if you chose to do so? With my molds there is really no reason for the 130 dollar Cabin tree lead hardness tester (tho I believe it is an AWESOME tool!) if one was on a tight budget you could cut that cost, On the other hand the Lee S&W 500 bullet ABSOLUTELY requires the correct lead hardness!! (So you really should ad in 130 bucks to your Cheap 25.00 dollar Lee mold) if you choose to use lead above 8-8.5 BHN you are in DEEP STUFF! You will strip papers off the bullet trying to size them, or worse yet end up with a bullet STUCK in your sizing die, Ask me how i know this :D And you will most definitely have papers ride the bullet to the target, How many? I don’t know? But i have found a BUNCH of them in my testing that made it to, and even through my target, even inside a sand bank! Again the weird part is they stil shot good??? It makes no sense to me how they do? I would think that a stuck paper that rode the bullet to the target would affect accuracy? Me being me, I would always suspicion an odd ball flyer as possibly a stuck paper? Remember a VERY HIGH QUALITY Custom bullet mold built to your Specs is 75.00 or so From Accurate Molds.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top