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dodpilot

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Folks,

I've been handloading metallic rifle and handgun cartridges for 25+ years. Just bought my first muzzloader (an inline, I think) today, used, a Traditions BuckSkinner .50 cal 1:20 twist, 21-inch barrel, for $150 out the door. Seemed like too good a deal to pass on, as it's in mint condition. Question: Do load manuals exist for this industry? I've been watching lots of YouTube videos, but can't find, even via Google, how many grains of what powder to put behind what weight bullet. Any vectors here would be appreciated. v/r -- CS
 
Yes New Rifles come with a Manual but most often a used rifle don't. There is not really a published load manual like for CF.

Are you sure it is a Buckskinner?

A Google search shows that is a sidelock not an inline, and having a 1 in 48 twist. IF it is a buckskinner you can use the sidelock manual from Traditions.

https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/data ... 335832.pdf

If it is a Buck Stalker, then that is an inline. is a 1 in 28 twist and most listed as 24"

https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/data ... 674455.pdf

Both can shoot 777 2F or 3F or Pyrodex RS Or real Black powder. Need to know which it is and then you may move the post to the Sidelock or the Inline forums for better visibility.
 
Thx for the reply. The right side of the barrel is engraved with "Traditions, Buckskinner, .50 cal, 1:20, Made in Spain"

It's a left-handed rifle (i.e. cocking piece is on left side). It uses either a No. 9 or No. 11 percussion cap. It doesn't break open. Barrel length is 21" end to end.

That's about all I know about it.

Does this mean it's an inline or sidelock?

Also, why do twist rates very so much on these old style rifles? Does the slower twist rate mean it's set up for heavier (i.e. true .50 cal, non-saboted) rounds? If so, I like that, as I want .50 cal holes, not something smaller but faster.

And, which of those powders you listed typically gives higher velocities? What are the virtues of real blackpowder to the newer generation of powders you listed?

- CS
 
Thats a sidelock similar to the old T/C White Mountain Carbine. 1-20 twist is super fast for a 50cal rifle.
buck01.jpg
 
How do I know when to use "lubed wool wad", or not? Is that only necessary when shooting over true blackpowder?
 
GM54-120 said:
1-20 for a 50cal ML is best suited for low to moderate charges and heavy/long bullets. I would try some 465gr+ conicals, lubed wool wad and about 75gr of real black powder.
I agree as I had a cased original EM Reilly percussion sporting rifle of 50/1:20 twist, that I sold about a decade ago. I shot a 530gr Paper Patched HP bullet over 85gr Swiss 2F. It shot very well to 300yds.
 
GM54-120 said:
1-20 for a 50cal ML is best suited for low to moderate charges and heavy/long bullets. I would try some 465gr+ conicals, lubed wool wad and about 75gr of real black powder.

http://www.muzzleloading-bullets.com/shop/
+1

Inline rifles have the ignition source "Inline" with the powder charge and bore. Sidelocks like your rifle have the ignition source (the cap) off to the side of the barrel and powder charge.
 
I’m glad I managed to find a this thread before having to post my own.

Can someone explain (or point me in the direction of explanation) as to why there’s such a wide variety of twist rates and what they are most suitable for? I’m familiar with that the numbers means and to my understanding (at least with AR’s) typically the faster twist rates accommodate heavier rounds. But I’ve seen a bunch of rifles with 1:70, 1:66, 1:48, and even as fast as 1:28.. Wouldn’t a faster rate be the best choice for better stabilization?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Wouldn’t a faster rate be the best choice for better stabilization?

Not exactly. Twist required is based on bullet length and the speed you want or need to shoot them. In a 50cal 1-24 to a 1-28 can shoot almost anything you can imagine really well except round balls. It will also be a bit too fast for a short REAL conical. You can shoot them but you will need to slow them down.

My 50cal 1-32 will shoot extremely well but it also shoots them really fast. If i shoot the same 225gr bullet in a 1-24 it needed to be shot slower.

There are plenty of twist rate calculators out there to get you in the ball park. I use mostly JBM and KWK's calculators. Length and speed are the 2 most critical variables for stability estimates. Sabots and soft lead conicals can only handle so much before it effects accuracy and leading becomes a problem.
 
that 1-20 twist you should be able to shoot a 50 lead bullet up to 650 grn or better. If you use real heavy conical such as 650 try using about 90 grns. swiss 1 1/2
 
that 1-20 twist you should be able to shoot a 50 lead bullet up to 650 grn or better. If you use real heavy conical such as 650 try using about 90 grns. swiss 1 1/2
 

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