Remington 700 barrel removal

can the 700 muzzy barrel be removed w/o having to buy a action wrench and if so whats the best way to accomplish this..

The two barrels that I have removed came off fairly easy. One SS and one blued model. I have read where the blued ones can be the most troublesome because of some type of sealant applied before the bluing process. I did use an action wrench and barrel vise, I knew I would be doing more than one and also installing expensive aftermarket barrels and didn't want to take any chances.

If the old barrel isn't worth saving, any good clamping device should work, even a pipe wrench but if your trying to save it and not mare it up, it becomes more of a headache.

The action, I'm not quite sure, you really don't want to twist it up or damage it. Be sure to look at the barrel threads through the scope base mounting holes and on the underside of the action, through the small hole for the trigger guard screw, make sure the barrel threads aren't flattened from too long of a screw. If they are, you can damage your action threads.

thanks old barrel is pitted down by where powder charge goes and up in the 1st 6 inches of barrel by crown.. looked at threads and they appear ok... would clamping action between 2 pieces of wood and then using a pipe wrench work you think? I don't care if barrels gets marred up as I will just keep it for a back up or to experiment on.

Using a pipe wrench will probably do more than marr it. I use pipe wrenches pretty often at work if it's even the slightest bit tight the teeth of the wrench dig in pretty well leaving some pretty good teeth marks with some sharp edges.......

I've only removed 1 700ML barrel - stainless and was a *****.. I had to cut the recoil lug off on the lathe to relieve torque. I did not have an action wrench and figured the $20 lug was cheaper route to go.
These ML actions are flat across the receiver opening (you may know this). I used a OLD wrench that the jaws adjust like a pipe wrench, but it slides up/down more precise, the flat straight jaws worked great on the flat (I did use a piece of copper sheet between the jaws).
I also noticed Remington put some sort of white plumbers pipe dope on the threads, the treads are nearly 2" long and it was hard even when the lug was off. Anyone know what this type thread lock that they might use?

Heating the action to turn the thread dope back to liquid helps a lot especially on the blued ones

thanks guys this is a blued action..

Well I looked at it some more and where the stock screw goes in by the recoil lug I thought was ok but upon closer inspection theres a ton of rust in the hole and it looks like threads are all mired up hard to tell with all the rust.. if threads are messed up what has to be done, if its to involved may have to send it to someone to get it taken off.. most of the gunsmiths around here are always backed up for 6 months almost impossible to get anything worked on..

Have you called any Smith's close by to get barrel removed..its just a 15 minute job with right tools....when I had my barrel removed I called a smith and he said come down and i will remove it...it took 10 minutes and 20.00 to have it done...worth it...it is not like the smith has to do any work to it..just spin off the barrel...

Al

just called one waiting to hear back from him..

Well the gunsmith told me he charges 50.00 to remove the barrel...
may take to him just so I don't have to mess with it..

dbowling said:

Well the gunsmith told me he charges 50.00 to remove the barrel...
may take to him just so I don't have to mess with it..

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About the same price around my area so I bought the tools. Thought about selling them when I was done but they work so well and I had so much fun putting my smokeless 700ML together, decided to keep them for future builds.

dbowling said:

Well I looked at it some more and where the stock screw goes in by the recoil lug I thought was ok but upon closer inspection theres a ton of rust in the hole and it looks like threads are all mired up hard to tell with all the rust.. if threads are messed up what has to be done, if its to involved may have to send it to someone to get it taken off.. most of the gunsmiths around here are always backed up for 6 months almost impossible to get anything worked on..

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I have read where some mill the threads out through the hole, which was said worked very well. Others used a small tool to straighten the threads. I have also read where a good soaking in penetrating oil (or a combo of acetone and transmission fluid, but I've never tried this) works well to penetrate into the threads to make removal much easier.

I put some kroil oil down in the hole a day or so ago and it has penetrated to where its coming out the scope mount holes on opposite side so that may help in removing it.

That penetrant may help out, worth trying. Even warming the area with a hairdryer would not hurt.

Won't you need a barrel wrech to install a new barrel. Just a thought. It may be worth buying one.

Not if Im only doing one and it cost as much as I paid for the whole gun.