Newbie Cleaning Mistake with Triple 7

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scott30415

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Had my T/C Impact out hunting over my Thanksgiving vacation, after being loaded for over a week (which I have done plenty of times) I discharged it and brought it home to clean it. I have always used Thompson T17 cleaner and barrel lube, of which I had run out of both. I have to order all my muzzleloading supply's, our of muzzleloading supply's is skimpy at best (and best is only during our 1 week season in October) in my part of GA and the closest I have found is about an hour drive. So I cleaned my rifle with warm soapy water and Dawn, brushed the barrel as always with a copper brush and washed agian with warm water only till I got a clean patch, I then run a dry patch through it repeatedly till it was dry and clean. An alcohol patch was run though to remove any possible moisture and a dry patch run through agian. I was out of anything to coat my barrel so I run a patch of Rem oil through it. When I went to load my rifle a little over a week later, I run a dry patch through it as always before popping a cap through it, Good Grief at the Rust!!!! I have only been shooting this rifle for 3 years (over 300 shots is a guess thinking about bullets I have bought), I have never fouled a barrel like this. What did I do wrong? The rust was like a soft brown wet rust, I cleaned on it for over 3 hours and I still have some rust it appears down the first 3 inches or so at the muzzle. But the rust that is there is not brushing out even with when I use pieces of a Copper chore boy pad in my brush. It is almost like I have browned the first 3" of my barrel. What did I do wrong and any advice on getting it out is appreciated. It still shots spot on as it is now, but seeing rust is driving me nuts.
 
Kroil penetrating oil or equivalent should remove the rust. Wet it real good and let it set for a day or two.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I hate rust.

After I clean a gun I allow it to sit for a couple hours before I put the final patch with any protectant thru it. I usually use a wD-40 product that's higher grade than the usual WD-40 stuff. I'd get the label for you but I need to get more myself and haven't got the old can for a picture. Often times a barrel will appear dry after running a dry patch thru just before one would run the finish coat patch thru, but metal can be tricky and hold moisture in microscopic pores and rust will grab hold right there because the moisture is UNDER the oil or whatever. Allowing some air time after cleaning but before oiling will allow that hidden moisture time to evaporate out of those pores and rust can't get started. This works super well for me.

Another thing I do is store my muzzle loading guns with the breech plug out if the plug is removable. Free air flow goes a long way in preventing rust. I like to come back a week or so after having put the cleaned gun away and running a patch dampened with the WD-40 inhibitor I use thru the barrel as a visual check to be certain things are not heading down hill with me not knowing. Where I live here in Minnesota we have humidity swings that marvel the tropics. Rust is something that can plague us so I have a routine developed that has me messing with the guns to be certain rust and I are not getting cozy and maybe this is something you need to get in the habit of doing until you know the rust issue in your gun is a part of history....as in gone.
 
scott30415

This is my bore cleaning procedure - so far - knocking on wood - I have never experienced what you describe..

Bore-Cleaning.jpg


To get he rust out you could run some JB Bore Paste on a tight fitting patch...

Wrote this several years ago think it still applies
When you ran your JB paste in your bore - did you just oil a patch and coat with paste and run it with your jag?

Howdy SL -
When you ran your JB paste in your bore - did you just oil a patch and coat with paste and run it with your jag?

Thanks,
Geoff

Yes, you might have to double your patch to get a tight fit. But I ran an oiled patch with JB's smeared on the sides...ran that side 25 strokes top to bottom (important) then flip the patch over and run another 25 strokes. Did this 4 times then clean up the bore and see what you might have accomplished... On my Triumph I think I ran this operation twice.

Hope this helps

mike

I think this link might still work

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1308 ... re_Pellets
 
Here is another option to JB, I use this on all of my Barrels, Been using this from my Beginning in Muzzleloaders. GOOD stuff :yeah:

Bore polish & Cleaning Compound by Montana Extreme

ZRNSVhzm.png
 
Sabotloader I actually saved that picture as a screen shot, thanks. Thanks to all for the advice, I have got some bore scrubber on the way to push through and get the last rust out I hope. Mr. Tom, I agree I despise rust.
 
The first mistake was using 777. I used it for about 5 years, before discovering BH209. I cannot describe the change and joy I feel, since I started with BH209.
 
Here is another option to JB, I use this on all of my Barrels, Been using this from my Beginning in Muzzleloaders. GOOD stuff :yeah:

Bore polish & Cleaning Compound by Montana Extreme

ZRNSVhzm.png
I've been using the Copper Remover for years on all my firearms. Only problem, got to use it when the wife isn't home because it smells BAD.

Does a great job.

Jerry
Gun Cleaner.jpg
 
Great tips!
I have been using 777 FFF for years and yes cleaning isn't always the best part of range day. I have been using Thompson cleaner for a couple of years. Noticed this last year that it wasn't doing it's job, so I ran a spit patch and wow! All kinds of black! I kept running a spit patch until all was clean and shiny. I did use the Thompsons during this to see if I was imagining things. Nope! Never seen the barrel cleaner! Those old timers were on to something. Saliva has a natural lube in it so you get a good clean and lube.
 
Had my T/C Impact out hunting over my Thanksgiving vacation, after being loaded for over a week (which I have done plenty of times) I discharged it and brought it home to clean it. I have always used Thompson T17 cleaner and barrel lube, of which I had run out of both. I have to order all my muzzleloading supply's, our of muzzleloading supply's is skimpy at best (and best is only during our 1 week season in October) in my part of GA and the closest I have found is about an hour drive. So I cleaned my rifle with warm soapy water and Dawn, brushed the barrel as always with a copper brush and washed agian with warm water only till I got a clean patch, I then run a dry patch through it repeatedly till it was dry and clean. An alcohol patch was run though to remove any possible moisture and a dry patch run through agian. I was out of anything to coat my barrel so I run a patch of Rem oil through it. When I went to load my rifle a little over a week later, I run a dry patch through it as always before popping a cap through it, Good Grief at the Rust!!!! I have only been shooting this rifle for 3 years (over 300 shots is a guess thinking about bullets I have bought), I have never fouled a barrel like this. What did I do wrong? The rust was like a soft brown wet rust, I cleaned on it for over 3 hours and I still have some rust it appears down the first 3 inches or so at the muzzle. But the rust that is there is not brushing out even with when I use pieces of a Copper chore boy pad in my brush. It is almost like I have browned the first 3" of my barrel. What did I do wrong and any advice on getting it out is appreciated. It still shots spot on as it is now, but seeing rust is driving me nuts.

HOT soapy water was all I ever used to use to clean my Renegade and then protect with Rem oil and have never had any issue with rust.

Got away from the soapy water and still use T/C #13 solvent (looks like skim milk) for cleaning. Still using 777 ffg in it.
 
Triple 7 cleans up very easily with a citrus household cleaner. I just pour small amount in plastic container put the breechplug in to soak and usually takes only a few patches to wipe out the bore/breech. I also use a clean patch to wipe off the underside of the scope (plunger style Whites) an brush out the breech area again. Clean up the plug with a wire brush an pipe cleaner an reinstall. I use small amount of teflon grease on plug threads then send a patch of Lucas gun oil (red) down the bore an your done. Total time is about 15 minutes tops. This has worked for many years an no rust or other issues!
Triple 7 is a great powder you just have to learn how to use an clean it...
 
Just curious, what citrus cleaner are u using? I use the t/c cleaner but looking for a cheaper alternative...
 
I tried an expensive can of BH209 in my Encore. No difference in performance, just way more expensive. Yes, you don't have to swab between shots, but at $1 a shot, it should shoot 1 hole groups. I found it harder to clean than 777. And then you have to use expensive gun cleaners. I have a hand lapped barrel, so 777 cleans up with a couple of patches. I drilled out a nipple and attach a hose to it, which sits in the hot soapy water. A few strokes with a patch, followed by a brass brush to clean out any plastic fouling,another wet patch, and then two dry patches followed by Kroil, and I'm done. Rust? What is that? I live in NM where we don't have much humidity.
 
Not sure how you come up with $1 a shot for BH209. Its cheaper per shot than any pellets when you adjust for velocity. Even at $40 a bottle its under $1 per shot. You get 52 shots at 120grV from a bottle. About 85grV is equal to a 2 pellet load in speed and you get over 70 shots per bottle.

I use it with heavy conicals occasionally and only need 70-80gr by volume in a 45cal. That easily matches about 90-100gr of Triple7 in speed. Still not as cheap as loose T7 but it aint no buck a shot or even close.

I come up with 55cent per shot at 85grV and $40 per bottle?
 
For my .54 Hawken I shoot T7 and patched round balls. For cleaning, I remove the nipple and clean-out screw. Put the removed barrel breech end down into HOT HOT HOT water. Using my rod, I run a swab thru the barrel which "pumps" hot water in and out of the barrel via the nipple hole. Do that till water runs clear. Get clean water and repeat. This gets all the power residue out and the barrel so hot you can barely hold it. Then I run dry pathes (actually paper towel) in and out of the bore till they're dry. Then I lay the barrel down on the work bench and put a blow dryer at the bore, you can feel a little air blowing out the nipple and clean out holes. Have a seat for a bit (1/2 hour). Then run Rem Oil or any other oil thru it on a different "oily swab".

Never had any rust doing the above. However, lately I've started using a foaming cleaner after the drying and before the oiling. Just seems like a good idea.

ON my in-line I shoot BH209. Totally different cleaning method. I treat it just like a regular rifle and use Hoppes. Works great. But their many other methods that work, also.
 
Never had any problems with my muzzleloaders bores rusting. My 18 year old CVA rifle has fired at least 3,000 rounds: The bore is like new.

i've used black powder and all the substitutes except BH 209. My cleaning routine :

1. Before leaving the range i run a patch wet with Windex Multi-Purpose Cleaner (formerly Windex with vinegar) in the bore. The very small percentage of vinegar in the Windex neutralizes the fouling which is a base. Sometimes if fizzes.

2. At home the breech plug is removed the bore is dry patched.

3. A patch is moistened with tap water and used to swab the bore.

4. The bore is dry patched.

5. If the rifle will be fired soon the bore is protected with WD-40. If the rifle will be stored the bore is swabbed with a patch moist with Militec 1.

Multi-Purpose Windex is great for cleaning breech plugs, strikers and nipples. Just spray it on and remove the crud with a toothbrush. Takes two minutes to clean a breech plug.

For BH 209 use a bore cleaner like Hoppe's.
 
Had my T/C Impact out hunting over my Thanksgiving vacation, after being loaded for over a week (which I have done plenty of times) I discharged it and brought it home to clean it. I have always used Thompson T17 cleaner and barrel lube, of which I had run out of both. I have to order all my muzzleloading supply's, our of muzzleloading supply's is skimpy at best (and best is only during our 1 week season in October) in my part of GA and the closest I have found is about an hour drive. So I cleaned my rifle with warm soapy water and Dawn, brushed the barrel as always with a copper brush and washed agian with warm water only till I got a clean patch, I then run a dry patch through it repeatedly till it was dry and clean. An alcohol patch was run though to remove any possible moisture and a dry patch run through agian. I was out of anything to coat my barrel so I run a patch of Rem oil through it. When I went to load my rifle a little over a week later, I run a dry patch through it as always before popping a cap through it, Good Grief at the Rust!!!! I have only been shooting this rifle for 3 years (over 300 shots is a guess thinking about bullets I have bought), I have never fouled a barrel like this. What did I do wrong? The rust was like a soft brown wet rust, I cleaned on it for over 3 hours and I still have some rust it appears down the first 3 inches or so at the muzzle. But the rust that is there is not brushing out even with when I use pieces of a Copper chore boy pad in my brush. It is almost like I have browned the first 3" of my barrel. What did I do wrong and any advice on getting it out is appreciated. It still shots spot on as it is now, but seeing rust is driving me nuts.
My son came to me one day when he had the same issue from cleaning and using Rem oil for the rust preventive. Thankfully he had a stainless barrel. The rem formed a layer but came out easy using windex and a bore cleaner with a wire brush. I put a coat of lightweight machine oil for rust preventive that worked for years. It best to store in a/c when humidity is high.
I us windex to remove the black power residue. I tried some aggressive expensive cleaners at times bit always find windex is much better and less harmful to skin. If I clean in between shots I use a patch sprayed with windex. Breech plugs are no challenge for windex.
 
Never had any problems with my muzzleloaders bores rusting. My 18 year old CVA rifle has fired at least 3,000 rounds: The bore is like new.

i've used black powder and all the substitutes except BH 209. My cleaning routine :

1. Before leaving the range i run a patch wet with Windex Multi-Purpose Cleaner (formerly Windex with vinegar) in the bore. The very small percentage of vinegar in the Windex neutralizes the fouling which is a base. Sometimes if fizzes.

2. At home the breech plug is removed the bore is dry patched.

3. A patch is moistened with tap water and used to swab the bore.

4. The bore is dry patched.

5. If the rifle will be fired soon the bore is protected with WD-40. If the rifle will be stored the bore is swabbed with a patch moist with Militec 1.

Multi-Purpose Windex is great for cleaning breech plugs, strikers and nipples. Just spray it on and remove the crud with a toothbrush. Takes two minutes to clean a breech plug.

For BH 209 use a bore cleaner like Hoppe's.

I use windex also and it works better than any specialized cleaners plus isn't bad on the skin.
I disagree with using water. I reminds when I started ML use many years ago some friends told me hot water was the trick. Just pour it down the bore and rinse it out. That is way to messy and not as effective as swabbing/brushing with windex. For a test once I tried some carburetor cleaner and it failed to do anything on breech plugs.cleaning.

I have not used BH 209 yet but will in the future. Did you try windex for a bore cleaner with it?
 
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