TC single trigger “Trigger Job”

Wow that last .004 made a huge difference! Plus i polished everything that had wear marks on it with Flitz. Bump tested it and it is so light now I can't wait to work up a deer load for it.

michiganmuzzy said:

Wow that last .004 made a huge difference! Plus i polished everything that had wear marks on it with Flitz. Bump tested it and it is so light now I can't wait to work up a deer load for it.

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Glad to see you made use of this Thread This Particular Modification is NOT For everyone, But if you are reasonably mechanically inclined it’s really not Difficult to do. My TC New Englander Trigger Was unlivable for me, if I hadn’t tackled this Job I would never have Shot that Rifle again

Idaholewis said:

I removed 5 Thousands from the Top of the Full Cock Notch, Then used Flitz Metal polish and a Qtip with the tip broken off, the stem of the Qtip will take shape of the Notch when pushed in to it, I polished it to a mirror! I didn’t want to mess with the Sear other than lightly polish the rounded tip (where it makes contact in the Full Cock Notch) I used a tiny bit of the Flitz metal polish on my Leather Strop i made for Finishing my knives on (My Leather Strop is Glued down on a pine board shaped like a paddle so it stays flat) i then pulled the Sear tip across the Strop, 2-3 passes and it looked really good!

I put the Lock back together, installed it back in the Stock, using a folded piece of leather under the hammer i shouldered and checked the pull, Not much if any noticeable difference? Back apart, i took another 5 Thousands off, put everything Back together again and tested, this time i could tell i was getting it, but stil wasn’t to my liking, Back apart again and removed 5 more, this time i checked with the trigger scale and got 4-4.5 pounds, i almost stopped here but decided to pull it apart again and take a few more thou off, Why not make a good thing a little better? Plus i had 3 more brand new Tumblers in case i screwed up and went to far in total i removed 18 Thou off the bottom of the Full cock notch!! I knew i was done this time whatever the pull ended up being, so i took extra care in the polishing end and got it to a literal Mirror finish, lightly oiled everything and put it back together again and checked it, it felt AMAZING!! It now breaks at 2-2.5 pounds, and ZERO creep. I bump tested it GOOD N HARD several times, she holds like a ROCK. Again, I didn’t change angles!

Here is a pic of the underside of the lock when put together and in the full cock position, Note the super shiny flat looking spot? That is what i removed, in comparison if you look just below you will see the Half Cock notch tip, The Full Cock Notch Tip looked identical to that before i started removing Material. Sorry about the blurry pic, but you get the idea

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Howdy. New here. I tried this job and was well on my way to having an outstanding trigger...until I stroked the part in question a few times too many. Does anyone have a line on these tumblers? The only two places that come up on a search shows them out of stock. BTW, .551 is too skinny.

Deer John said:

Howdy. New here. I tried this job and was well on my way to having an outstanding trigger...until I stroked the part in question a few times too many. Does anyone have a line on these tumblers? The only two places that come up on a search shows them out of stock. BTW, .551 is too skinny.

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I did the EXACT same thing my First Go Around, Luckily i had a Few spares at the time. The proper way to do this would be in a Little Milling Machine, Where you could get SUPER PRECISE, But not all of us have that Luxury (me being one of them)

Unfortunately I do not know a Source for these Tumblers? They haven’t been made in years, Which makes this Job “Risky” Ebay will probably be your best Bet? And be prepared to PAY, Most of the Sellers on there know what they have is Rare, and Hard to Come by

Here is an example, i found several at this Same price (A guy doesn’t wanna make many mistakes on these ) It doesn’t matter if it’s a TC Hawken, Renegade, New Englander Etc. The locks, Tumblers are the Same. The ONLY exception to this that i am aware of is the TC Seneca, and Cherokee, They are Different
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Thomp...-Tumbler-Flint-Perc-TC041018-45-/254565941646

For me a "trigger job" is the first thing that I do when I get a gun home. Cartridge gun, muzzle loader, pellet gun, no matter, they all need work to get the full potential. I started this years ago before you-tube and created some serious challenges for myself. A few months ago I bought a springer pellet gun. You talk about a bad trigger. Seems like you had to pull the trigger twice. Once to get the creep out and then again to get the sear to break. Guns always shoot better with a little trigger work.

snapbang said:

For me a "trigger job" is the first thing that I do when I get a gun home. Cartridge gun, muzzle loader, pellet gun, no matter, they all need work to get the full potential. I started this years ago before you-tube and created some serious challenges for myself. A few months ago I bought a springer pellet gun. You talk about a bad trigger. Seems like you had to pull the trigger twice. Once to get the creep out and then again to get the sear to break. Guns always shoot better with a little trigger work.

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I am EXACTLY the Same way, as I’ve said MANY times before, a Trigger “Makes, or Breaks” a Rifle to me. For My Rem 700s i Run Bix’ N Andy Ball bearing Triggers, I have used Timney (LOTS of them) The last one i used was a Trigger Tech “Special” I sold it in the Rifle, and was GLAD to be Rid of it! It was NOWHERE Near my BIX Triggers

A good trigger is an ABSOLUTE Must for me, These “Set Trigger” TC Renegades/Hawkens are GOLD MINES to me, You can find a Complete Stock, or an Entire Rifle reasonably Cheap, and the Factory “Set” Triggers are AWESOME! All of mine Break in the Ounces, Ranging from my lightest at 6 Ounces, to an Average of 12-13 Ounces.

The Single Trigger Models Have STIFF Trigger Pulls, With no way to Adjust the Pull Weight. Since i shoot Bench/Target Pretty much Exclusively with my Muzzleloaders, I avoid the Single Trigger Models. The “Set Trigger” Models are a MAJOR Reason for my Target Success, There is NO WAY i could shoot a Single Trigger Model with HEAVY trigger Pull anywhere NEAR the Level i Shoot my “Set” Triggers in the Ounces

I don't understand the issue as I don't have the means or knowledge to tackle something like that, but I wonder if a Double set trigger assembly could be adapted for it??

edmehlig said:

I don't understand the issue as I don't have the means or knowledge to tackle something like that, but I wonder if a Double set trigger assembly could be adapted for it??

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Most definitely can be done! I actually looked in to Doing this with my TC New Englander (That i started this Thread Over) But after some Research, I just didn’t feel up to Tackling it. It’s not an Easy “Drop in” type Deal, Someone with proper Wood tools, and a Little Knowledge of what’s what here could do it no problem. I decided to Pull the Tumbler (Which is the Same as saying “The Hammer”) You NEVER want to mess with the Sear, Leave it WELL ENOUGH Alone

With the method I describe in the Beginning of this Thread, a Guy can obtain an AWESOME Trigger Pull from a Single Trigger Rifle, as i did to my TC New Englander Here in this Thread BUT as i also State, This Job is NOT FOR EVERYONE!! You can go to Far, Making the Trigger “Hair” Which is Dangerous, or Where it won’t even Catch in the Notch and “Hold” Which Ruins the Tumbler.

My FIRST Suggestion to anyone wanting a Renegade with a LIGHT Trigger is to get a “Set Trigger” Model, This gives you the option of Using it, or NOT, Choice is yours? I feel it’s better to “Have it and not need it, than NOT have it, and Wish you did) With a “Set Trigger” Rifle If you prefer a Stiff Pull, Simply Cock the Rifle and Pull the Front Trigger (it will be Stiff, But Works Great for Folks that Prefer a Stiffer pull for Hunting, Cold sensitive fingers, Etc.) And then Say you are on a Bench Where you would prefer a REALLY light Trigger for Targets? Cock the Rifle, Pull the Rear Trigger, Which Sets the Front Trigger, Now you have an ULTRA LIGHT Trigger in the Ounces. To me personally, The “Set Trigger” Models are the GOLD MINES

If you have a Single Trigger Model Renegade, Well, You have a Single STIFF Trigger that has NO adjustments, You are either Stuck with it the way it is, Or you attempt to Fix it. Which is the Reason i Started this thread

Idaholewis said:

I did the EXACT same thing my First Go Around, Luckily i had a Few spares at the time. The proper way to do this would be in a Little Milling Machine, Where you could get SUPER PRECISE, But not all of us have that Luxury (me being one of them)

Unfortunately I do not know a Source for these Tumblers? They haven’t been made in years, Which makes this Job “Risky” Ebay will probably be your best Bet? And be prepared to PAY, Most of the Sellers on there know what they have is Rare, and Hard to Come by

Here is an example, i found several at this Same price (A guy doesn’t wanna make many mistakes on these ) It doesn’t matter if it’s a TC Hawken, Renegade, New Englander Etc. The locks, Tumblers are the Same. The ONLY exception to this that i am aware of is the TC Seneca, and Cherokee, They are Different
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Thomp...-Tumbler-Flint-Perc-TC041018-45-/254565941646

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Thanks so much for the link! I just ordered one. It drives me crazy to have the rifle out of commission so I'll probably install the new tumbler and leave it alone until I add that milling machine to my shop.

I have to say, I've had this rifle for years and never properly worked up an accurate load until a couple of weeks ago. After a couple of hours at the range and about 25 shots I had it shooting plenty accurate at 100 yards with 100 grains of pyrodex and a 425 grain Hornaday Great Plains Bullet. Really looking forward to deer hunting with it this year.

If you have a gun you want to do trigger work on check with you tube. Somebody has already wanted the same thing you want and likely put it on video. Just a few weeks ago I did a 10/22. There are way too many parts in a trigger group in a 10/22. But if you check you tube there are hundreds of people posting how to do it. Find a procedure that works good for you. Dont just pick the first one. Take your time, do it in a clean room with as few contents as possible. (very helpful when a spring or clip gets away). Use a white sheet, towel, or something like that so you can see well. Get a reading light or trouble light. Need lots of light. Once you have done 1 trigger Ill bet you go through your entire collection. You'll be amazed at the improvement in your groups.

Deer John said:

Thanks so much for the link! I just ordered one. It drives me crazy to have the rifle out of commission so I'll probably install the new tumbler and leave it alone until I add that milling machine to my shop.
I

I have to say, I've had this rifle for years and never properly worked up an accurate load until a couple of weeks ago. After a couple of hours at the range and about 25 shots I had it shooting plenty accurate at 100 yards with 100 grains of pyrodex and a 425 grain Hornaday Great Plains Bullet. Really looking forward to deer hunting with it this year.

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If you have a drill press and a decent vise, you have a milling machine. Some careful setup and you could pull it off on that. Just make sure you have it clamped TIGHT so it doesn’t go flying.

Great info Lewis!

Idaholewis said:

I am EXACTLY the Same way, as I’ve said MANY times before, a Trigger “Makes, or Breaks” a Rifle to me. For My Rem 700s i Run Bix’ N Andy Ball bearing Triggers, I have used Timney (LOTS of them) The last one i used was a Trigger Tech “Special” I sold it in the Rifle, and was GLAD to be Rid of it! It was NOWHERE Near my BIX Triggers

A good trigger is an ABSOLUTE Must for me, These “Set Trigger” TC Renegades/Hawkens are GOLD MINES to me, You can find a Complete Stock, or an Entire Rifle reasonably Cheap, and the Factory “Set” Triggers are AWESOME! All of mine Break in the Ounces, Ranging from my lightest at 6 Ounces, to an Average of 12-13 Ounces.

The Single Trigger Models Have STIFF Trigger Pulls, With no way to Adjust the Pull Weight. Since i shoot Bench/Target Pretty much Exclusively with my Muzzleloaders, I avoid the Single Trigger Models. The “Set Trigger” Models are a MAJOR Reason for my Target Success, There is NO WAY i could shoot a Single Trigger Model with HEAVY trigger Pull anywhere NEAR the Level i Shoot my “Set” Triggers in the Ounces

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Boy Lewis you got me scratchin my head now . Shilen canceled my order for a trigger due to covid 19 delays . I just looked up bix n andy triggers . Them dudes got a tag on them !!! Do you think you could expand on your experiance with 700 triggers a little bit ??? I normally dont use a 700 , but with my 700ml build in progress your insights would sure be helpfull !!! Im a pretty happy camper @ a Clean 2.5lbs single stage with manners for a hunting rifle anyway in all weather conditions requireing gloves . But im also teachable from the right guy !!! Youre insights are valuable to me , if ya dont mind sharing them here !!! I do apologize for being off topic a bit but it did come up ??

Sideshow said:

Boy Lewis you got me scratchin my head now . Shilen canceled my order for a trigger due to covid 19 delays . I just looked up bix n andy triggers . Them dudes got a tag on them !!! Do you think you could expand on your experiance on 700 triggers a little bit ??? I normally dont use a 700 , but with my 700ml build in progress your insights would sure be helpfull !!! Im a pretty happy camper @ a Clean 2.5lbs single stage with manners . But im also teachable from the right guy !!! Youre insights are valuable to me !!!

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I have the Bix’ N Andy Tac Sport 2 Stage Triggers in 2 of my Rem 700 CFs, They are like 250-275 Bucks (Yes expensive, But in my opinion VERY WELL worth it!!) I have owned More Timney Triggers over the years than I could ever begin to Remember? I use to be Big in Buy/Sell/Trade, i did on a REGULAR Basis for Many years. The Old Timney’s back in the 90s Era Were DARN GOOD, But Sadly the last few of them I Bought were not much, if any better than the Junk Remington and HOWA Triggers i was Replacing, I won’t even Mess with a Timney anymore.

I ended up with a Rem 700 .308 in Trade last year, The Trigger was HORRID at best, i have adjusted a TON of Factory Rem 700 Triggers over the Years, Some you can get livable, and Some are a TOTAL LOST Cause, Unfortunately for me This Little .308 Was the Ladder, NOTHING i could do to Make it a Decent Trigger, I literally Threw it in the Garbage! My heart told me to order Another Bix’ N Andy Tac Sport, But i wasn’t even sure I was gonna Keep the Gun? Therefore my Wallet decided to Try a Trigger Tech “Special” I had Caught them on Sale at Midway for Around 180-200 Bucks iirc? I had heard good things about them, So i went with one, BIG MISTAKE! That thing was a JOKE Compared to my Bix Triggers, NOT EVEN CLOSE! I Hated it! I sold the Rifle/Trigger Combo, and was HAPPY to see it go

This was the Trigger Tech i installed, POS in my opinion! I will never have another one of them. And this “Special” Model is supposed to be their “Refined” Version, then a Diamond. They can Stick them Somewhere


With the above Said, Keep in mind that i am a Trigger SNOB! What I don’t like, Many (Probably the Majority?) Would think was GREAT.

How i chose the “BIX’ N ANDY? I contacted Bullet Central and Spoke with Owner Chris Harris, My intentions were to Order a Jewell, But he INSISTED that i Try a BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Trigger (He sent 1 out to me to Test, if I didn’t like it? Send it back and get the Jewell) I asked him if he Felt there was that much Difference? His Answer to me was “Yes, Myself, and MANY other Shooters feel These BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Triggers are in a Class of their Own”

With Chris’s Advice I went with the BIX’ N ANDY, I couldn’t be happier!! They are UNDOUBTEDLY The best Triggers my Finger has ever touched

This is my 1st BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Trigger after i installed it

Idaholewis said:

I have the Bix’ N Andy Tac Sport 2 Stage Triggers in 2 of my Rem 700 CFs, They are like 250-275 Bucks (Yes expensive, But in my opinion VERY WELL worth it!!) I have owned More Timney’s over the years than I could ever begin to Remember? I use to Buy/Sell/Trade on a REGULAR Basis. The Old Timney’s back in the 90s Era Were DARN GOOD, But Sadly the last few of them I Bought were not much, if any better than the Junk Remington and HOWA Triggers i was Replacing, I won’t even Mess with a Timney anymore.

I ended up with a Rem 700 .308 in Trade last year, The Trigger was HORRID at best, i have adjusted more Rem 700 Factory Triggers than i can remember, Some you can get livable, and Some are a TOTAL LOST Cause, Unfortunately for me This Little .308 Was the Ladder, NOTHING i could do to Make it a Decent Trigger, I literally Threw it in the Garbage! My heart told me to order Another Bix’ N Andy Tac Sport, But i wasn’t even sure I would Keep the Gun? Therefore my Wallet decided to Try a Trigger Tech “Special” I had Caught them on Sale at Midway for Around 180-200 Bucks iirc? I had heard good things about them, So i went with one, BIG MISTAKE! That thing was a JOKE Compared to my Bix Triggers, NOT EVEN CLOSE! I Hated it! I sold the Rifle/Trigger Combo, and was HAPPY to see it go

This was the Trigger Tech i installed, POS in my opinion! I will never have another one. And this “Special” is supposed to be their “Refined” Version, then a Diamond. They can Stick them Somewhere

You also have to keep in mind that i am a Trigger SNOB! What I don’t like, Many (Probably the Majority?) Would ABSOLUTELY Love.

How i chose the “BIX’ N ANDY, I contacted Bullet Central and Spoke with Owner Chris Harris, My intentions were to Order a Jewell, But he INSISTED that i Try a BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Trigger (He sent 1 out to me to Test, if I didn’t like it? Send it back and get the Jewell) I asked him if he Felt there was that much Difference? His Answer to me was “Yes, Myself, and MANY other Shooters feel These BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Triggers are in a Class of their Own”

With Chris’s Advice I went with the BIX’ N ANDY, I couldn’t be happier!! They are UNDOUBTEDLY The best Triggers my Finger has ever touched

This is my 1st BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Triggers after i installed it

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Thanks Lewis !!! The Shilen isnt the best out there but its ALOT better than a stocker ya cant trust to not get stupid and go BANG just cuz ya touched the safety or the bolt !!! DANGEROUS !!! I figure i didnt need to look like i had a couple potato's in my back pockets !!! Ya Buddy !!! Lol !!!!
Ive never explored the 2 stage though as i figured it would feel like creep ?? Maybe not ?? IDK .
The Shilen is a buy but i truthfully like a wider curved shoe a bit better too . Im trying NOT to have a ton of money in this build too like some do . Anything less expensive you could recomend ?? Lol , there aint much left !!!

Sideshow said:

Thanks Lewis !!! The Shilen isnt the best out there but its ALOT better than a stocker ya cant trust to not get stupid and go BANG just cuz ya touched the safety or the bolt !!! DANGEROUS !!! I figure i didnt need to look like i had a couple potato's in my back pockets !!! Ya Buddy !!! Lol !!!!
Ive never explored the 2 stage though as i figured it would feel like creep ?? Maybe not ?? IDK .
The Shilen is a buy but i truthfully like a wider curved shoe a bit better too . Im trying NOT to have a ton of money in this build too like some do . Anything less expensive you could recomend ?? Lol , there aint much left !!!

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Idaholewis said:

With the above Said, Keep in mind that i am a Trigger SNOB! What I don’t like, Many (Probably the Majority?) Would think was GREAT.

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I read where you mention 2lbs, That Said, i have NO DOUBT You would be happy with a Timney, Trigger Tech, Etc. As for the 2 Stage, TOTAL personal preference thing, I love mine, But i am Also Very accustomed to them. If you are use to a Single Stage, i would Probably stay there

I am so use to Super light Triggers that Run in the Mid to High Ounces that It is REALLY Difficult for me to pick up a Stock Factory Gun and Make the Trigger “Likable” For me. Trigger Work is the FIRST thing i do to a New Rifle. My Heavy Barreled .308 Hunting Rifle With BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Trigger Breaks at 13 Oz, And I Deer Hunt with that Rifle Mostly Sitting For Whitetail, Watching Distant Ridges.

When I settle in on a Deer, i want to Shoot him EXACTLY as if i am Shooting for the Tightest Group of my Life on Paper, Therefore i hunt with the EXACT SAME Rifle/Trigger that i am Accustomed to Shooting Targets With

Idaholewis said:

I read where you mention 2lbs, That Said, i have NO DOUBT You would be happy with a Timney, Trigger Tech, Etc. As for the 2 Stage, TOTAL personal preference thing, I love mine, But i am Also Very accustomed to them. If you are use to a Single Stage, i would Probably stay there

I am so use to Super light Triggers that Run in the Mid to High Ounces that It is REALLY Difficult for me to pick up a Stock Factory Gun and Make the Trigger “Likable” For me. Trigger Work is the FIRST thing i do to a New Rifle. My Heavy Barreled .308 Hunting Rifle With BIX’ N ANDY Ball Bearing Trigger Breaks at 13 Oz, And I Deer Hunt with that Rifle Mostly Sitting For Whitetail, Watching Distant Ridges.

When I settle in on a Deer, i want to Shoot him EXACTLY as if i am Shooting for the Tightest Group of my Life on Paper, Therefore i hunt with the EXACT SAME Rifle/Trigger that i am Accustomed to Shooting Targets With

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Thanks Lewis for taking the time to answer me . I now understand completely your preferances . Makes total sense as you are so used to those TC set triggers anything else would be Extremely foreign especially in the excitement of fur and horns !!!
A target/varmint style trigger suits you well !!! I can Definately see where a ball bearing Bix n Andy version would be especially dear to you !!!

I like to run a heavier firing pin spring . I do this for 2 reasons . A quicker lock time and im Not a blind hunter so im exposed to all sorts of nasty weather like a Iced up rifle . The heavier spring helps it go Boom then . They also Raise trigger pull weights !!! This makes "trigger tuning" Much more challengeing . Its like trying to stand on a razors edge and not fall off to either side , too light or too heavy or unsafe . It also can make "breaking like glass " quite dramatic !!! A factory trigger gets even more difficult and possibly dangerous especially then . Ive got the A-bolt down pat but the Remington is squirrelly and varies pull to pull like crazy . Dangerously so . No combo of springs , polish , adjustment helps . Its New Trigger Time with RANGE !!! A wider shoe also helps lesson feel . Thanks for your help !!! I now know a future sidelock will have to be a single trigger for me too for big game . We're all wired a bit differently !!! Thanks again !!!!

Another thing that i forget to mention and it is IMPORTANT in my Personal preference for a Trigger, I Target/Bench Shoot my Muzzleloaders almost Exclusively. I stil prefer to Hunt Deer with my Centerfire Rifles. The ONLY time i have Hunted, or Plan to Hunt with a Muzzleloader is if i Draw an Extra Doe Tag (i might decide to use a Muzzleloader for that?) And our Little 6 Day Cow Elk Hunt, Idaho Muzzleloader ONLY Rules. EVERYTHING Else for me is Target/Bench Shooting, Trying to Squeeze the Absolute most out of my Rifles, Accuracy Wise. An ultra light Trigger is invaluable for my Type of use.

I would NEVER Hand ANY of my Rifles to a Young Kid Starting out, or even an Adult for that matter, Unless i knew that person really well, and they knew me, and understood my kind of Triggers.

Idaholewis said:

Another thing that i forget to mention and it is IMPORTANT in my Personal preference for a Trigger, I Target/Bench Shoot my Muzzleloaders almost Exclusively. I stil prefer to Hunt Deer with my Centerfire Rifles. The ONLY time i have Hunted, or Plan to Hunt with a Muzzleloader is if i Draw an Extra Doe Tag (i might decide to use a Muzzleloader for that?) And our Little 6 Day Cow Elk Hunt, Idaho Muzzleloader ONLY Rules. EVERYTHING Else for me is Target/Bench Shooting, Trying to Squeeze the Absolute most out of my Rifles, Accuracy Wise. An ultra light Trigger is invaluable for my Type of use.

I would NEVER Hand ANY of my Rifles to a Young Kid Starting out, or even an Adult for that matter, Unless i knew that person really well, and they knew me, and understood my kind of Triggers.

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You and i are very much the same yet very different my friend . I too shoot for extreme accuracy Especially during load development or testing . Everything i do has a heavy hunting slant to it OR to make my equipment flawless in use . Ive even wore heavy thermal gloves in the summer time to help give me a hunting "fix" while shooting at actual pictured silhouette targets !!! Lol , im a Sick Man at times !!!
Im at my best when i have this mindset . I even wait till i got it Really Bad to really dial in a load for bugholes . Its then that im a well oiled machine looking for pin point accuracy out of my hunting rifles . Its easy then when i can concentrate that deep effortlessly to a single minded Purpose of Harvest . Kinda scary if ya want the real truth Lol !!! Its That intense .
My 22-250 doesnt do that quite the same way cuz ground hogs aint got horns !!! Its got a target/bench trigger and i love the gun too . I dunno.....thats yer buddy Sideshow alright !!!!
This year tho Mighty Whitey is going after ground hogs . I need that rush .....Lol !!!

Your experiance helped make that Super 91 a 1 hole shooter . Youve helped So Many with your techniques and truthfull advice its of Epic Proportions . The true meat or heart of a matter is seldom found in shallow waters . Deep diving produces the finest pearls . The world of muzzleloading , regardless of type , is a much better place because of you Idaholewis . This thread is but a small example of just what youve given to it . Its not only what you share but also how you say it or speak to folks that makes them welcomed in your world . Thats Dynamic . May God Bless You for sharing your rich passions with us all .....

Sideshow
I am surprised Shilen cancelled your order. I drive by the plant almost everyday and they are open with 8-12 cars in the parking lot. I know their black rifle barrels and such take preference now but i would assume they would take care of you. I have Shilen barrels on both my 22-250 Mauser and my .280 Rem Mauser. Tac drivers and i love them. I know since Ed Shilen passed and his son Doug sold out it is not quite the same but Wade Hull the new owner is a very good person to deal with. At some point i plan on a BPCR rifle and it will have a Shilen barrel on it. Now as far as 2 stage triggers i have always loved them on my military rifles. My LR308 USMC style sniper rifle has it also and what can i say except DAMN what a gun.
DL