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I have purchased Swiss powder from BA but the majority of the time I try to purchase 10 or more cans at a time and I buy from Powder Inc. I use several different powders in my different guns and it makes more sense for me to buy in volume. Plus I get a little better deal buying that way. I think I got my Blackhorn from Grafs. But again that's just for one rifle and I got 5 lbs of it.
 
You all are both shooting 2 different ignitions too. Not saying either of you are doing anything wrong either. Just mentioning a difference in the ignitions. I have shot a bucket load of Pyrodex over the years (still do Pyro P and RS or Select) and never had a hang fire in an inline (#11 cap and LRMP). Never shot it in my Sidelock though but that rifle just takes up room in the safe now.:(
 
You all are both shooting 2 different ignitions too. Not saying either of you are doing anything wrong either. Just mentioning a difference in the ignitions. I have shot a bucket load of Pyrodex over the years (still do Pyro P and RS or Select) and never had a hang fire in an inline (#11 cap and LRMP). Never shot it in my Sidelock though but that rifle just takes up room in the safe now.:(

Very true! I am talking Sidelock No. 11 Caps. I would bet a 209 Would set it off EVERYTIME, even with Oil in it :D

I remember reading of Flash Hole Diameter importance with the Subs, I made SURE i was using a Wore Nipple that i Gauged at .033 When i tried the Pyrodex P, Ron actually Drills his out to .035 :eek: But that is where the TC Hotshot Nipples are, or at least they were Brand New out of the Package
 
209 is definitely hotter, but I shoot Pyro in my #11 and LRMP (Large Rifle Mag Primer) set ups but they are inlines. I think some of the issue is the inline vs the offset direction the flame has to go in the Sidelock Breech. The Sidelock definitely needs a little more attention on how you care for them. Your cleaning (Steam) method is the best I have seen, never thought of that. But oils or Moisture with mess with them both.
 
Ron is SPOT ON with the TC’s Being .035 New. Here is a Brand new Right out of the Package TC Nipple, .035 On the DOT. Which is HUGE compared to the Treso/Ampcos that i use, they are a Tiny .028 Diameter Flash Hole. Apparently TC understood the importance of LARGE Flash Holes for Sub Powders :D This is where MOST Throw a Nipple away, I throw them away at .033

1Nf899Nl.jpg
 
209 is definitely hotter, but I shoot Pyro in my #11 and LRMP (Large Rifle Mag Primer) set ups but they are inlines. I think some of the issue is the inline vs the offset direction the flame has to go in the Sidelock Breech. The Sidelock definitely needs a little more attention on how you care for them. Your cleaning (Steam) method is the best I have seen, never thought of that. But oils or Moisture with mess with them both.

I fully agree, The Hangfires i had with Pyrodex P (Other than the Few HORRIBLE Cold Bores I explained above) Were ever so slight, But DEFINITELY There! Just like Zonie Spoke of, he hit the Nail on the Head in his explanation :lewis:

After my HANDS ON experience with it, I Personally would NEVER Fully Trust it in a Sidelock, with No. 11 Percussion Caps. That’s me! More power to those that do! Shoot what YOU Trust :lewis:
 
You all are both shooting 2 different ignitions too. Not saying either of you are doing anything wrong either. Just mentioning a difference in the ignitions. I have shot a bucket load of Pyrodex over the years (still do Pyro P and RS or Select) and never had a hang fire in an inline (#11 cap and LRMP). Never shot it in my Sidelock though but that rifle just takes up room in the safe now.:(

Well you're right about "current ignitions". However the same still applies and I've shot a lot of other ignition types. If the rifle is properly maintained, properly readied for shooting, the rifle is designed to shoot the desired propellant, and the directons are followed properly, the substitutes will ignite with no problem. In just about all cases, when a rifle has a hang fire or failure to fire, its not the rifle or propellants fault.
 
Well you're right about "current ignitions". However the same still applies and I've shot a lot of other ignition types. If the rifle is properly maintained, properly readied for shooting, the rifle is designed to shoot the desired propellant, and the directons are followed properly, the substitutes will ignite with no problem. In just about all cases, when a rifle has a hang fire or failure to fire, its not the rifle or propellants fault.

You Betcha GEORGE :lewis:
 
Well you're right about "current ignitions". However the same still applies and I've shot a lot of other ignition types. If the rifle is properly maintained, properly readied for shooting, the rifle is designed to shoot the desired propellant, and the directons are followed properly, the substitutes will ignite with no problem. In just about all cases, when a rifle has a hang fire or failure to fire, its not the rifle or propellants fault.

Totally agree!
 
These little Handheld Steam Cleaners are Flat out AWESOME for Cleaning Blackpowder Fowling :lewis: I got the idea long ago from Pedersoli, They Market and Sell a Steam Cleaner, But I wasn’t about to pay 700-800 Dollars for their unit, I bought a Cheap Little Handheld from Amazon.

A few examples of how well they Work. This was my Lehigh Breech Plug out of my Old Knight Mountaineer. I shot Real Blackpowder, after 12-15 Shots the Breech Plug was NASTY DIRTY. My little Steam Cleaner made it look Brand New in just a Few minutes. My Knight Mountaineer would EASILY have passed as New unfired the Day i sold it I found a scrapper tool on Ebay for my Hawkens.
zyGdgWKl.jpg


Breech Plug and Vent liner literally looked Brand New within a Few minutes with the little Steam Cleaner :lewis:
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Here is another Set of Tools that i found INVALUABLE for inlines, Especially the Plunger Guns. The Action was a Pain to get in, These Brushes made QUICK, Short Work of that Job! Forum member ENCORE50A pointed these out to me :lewis: I ONLY use the Nylon Brushes, Make sure and NOT use the Stainless Brushes, They would Scratch.
YKa4CP2l.jpg


Another Example of how effective the Little Steam Cleaner is. This came from a Thompson Center Renegade that i had CLEAN, as Clean as i could Possibly get it. This CRUD came from the Snail, Patented Breech/Fire Channel, You just can’t get in these Sidelock Breech Plugs Fire Channels with ANYTHING, And EFFECTIVELY Clean this Area (Pipe cleaners are a Joke at best) Steam MOST DEFINITELY Gets in here, And gets the Job Done :lewis:

Here is a Session of Pics that should Make Sense to what I’m talking about

Pull the nipple and Point the Steamer inside the Hole, HAMMER IT With Hot Steam! This is an Old pic, I don’t use the Tubing, and Cleanout/Flush Nipple anymore, I Just Point The Steamer Nozzle in the Hole. But this setup did work STELLAR :lewis:
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Just a Simple 1/4-28 Flush Nipple, These can EASILY be made by Drilling out an Old Worn Nipple
5sGrhoCl.jpg


Here is my Cut Away Thompson Center Renegade Breech, Here you can see what you are up against. A pipe cleaner would be lucky to Scratch the Surface of the Crud that Build up in here over time. You can clearly see where your Cleaning Jag Stops
DXWgMvUl.jpg


Thompson Center made a “Scraper Tool” for their Patented Breeches, you can see how it fits inside the U Shape.
8pswUGBl.jpg


As you can CLEARLY see above you cannot get inside the Fire Channel, BUT STEAM CAN AND MOST DEFINITELY WILL!! Remember, this is from a Rifle that i had SPOTLESS Clean, The Bore that was, I had no idea that this Crud was living in the Patented Breech/Fire Channel? That was Until My Little Steam Cleaner UNEARTHED It :lewis:
OtniN3Sl.jpg
 

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