Difficult breech plug removal

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vaguru

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Long time lurker, finally joined. I have been shooting muzzleloaders for 40+ years and have just encountered an issue I have never had before.

It is an issue with an original Knight MK-85 I purchased back in 1992. It is a 50 cal SS with laminated Forest green camo stock. I have shot black powder in it for testing, but went to Pyrodex RS as its standard load. Since the day I first shot it I have used the now discontinued Sure Fire breech plug. Recently however I noticed that the brass sealing seat had some pitting in 2 very small spots and was allowing leakage. Knowing that these plugs can and do wear out, I installed the original breech plug as I no longer have any new Sure Fire plugs.

Due to the fact that Pyrodex has the dreaded sulphur odor my wife dislikes, I thought I would finally try some Triple 7. Two reasons, one for no odor, and the other to regain velocity I lost with the change in breech plugs.

I bought Triple 7 3Fg as it lists the higher velocity. I also bought some CCI #11 magnum caps as there were no standard caps available. I shoot 240 XTP bullets in either Knight HP sabots or the now discontinued Hornady green sabots I used to buy in bulk. With 100 gr of Pyrodex RS by volume using #11 CCI caps this load normally shoots 1/2" to 3/4" groups at 100 yds. Velocity chronographed was 1933 av with ES of 27.

Using 100 gr of T7 3Fg and the CCI #11 magnum caps the recoil was brutal, and groups were closer to 3" at 100 yds. Guessing that I was pushing it, I backed off the charge to 80 gr by volume and groups tightened up to about 1 1/2" on average. I cleaned between shots with a wet patch and then dry patch to ensure I was down to the breech plug for each shot. I didn't have the time, nor conditions to chronograph this day.

I shot 12 shots total this day and noticed that the impact was higher at both 50 y and 100 y than the Pyrodex RS loads with the standard breech plug by about 2 1/2" at 100 y. I can live with that as I can adjust the scope for POI.

Now for the issue.

Upon returning home I started the disassembly to clean the rifle. The breech plug was near seized! I had to clamp it in a vise securely and work the breech plug slowly back and forth to remove it. It was the most difficult removal I ever encountered with this rifle. Clean up after that was easier than Pyrodex and my wife enjoyed the lack of odor.

A day or 2 later I again went to shoot the T7 80gr 3Fg load. CCI #11 mag caps, 240 gr XTP and Knight HP sabot. This day I shot 14 shots to try and verify POI and group size. Again cleaned between shots with wet and dry patch to breech plug. As I had run out of Knight HP sabots, I had bought a prepackaged Hornady XTP 240 gr setup with the low drag sabots. The loads with the HP sabots averaged 1 3/4" at 100 y while the prepackaged shot 3/8" groups! I got to thinking maybe my HP sabots were "dried out" as they were 20 some years old. (However with Pyrodex they still grouped inside 1" at 100 y a few days previous.) As time ran out I returned home and again had the difficult breech plug removal.

Two questions: Is it normal to have difficult breech plug removal with T7 in Knight rifles?
Can sabots deteriorate over time, have less lubricating properties?

I did order and received 2 new packages of Knight HP sabots and a box of Hornady 240 XTP bullets for next trip.

Also, as I have interest in Blackhorn 209 powder, and 209 primer ignition I ordered a CVA Optima (and BH breech plug) to give that a try. I would have converted the Knight to 209, but Knight did not recommend plunger fire with Blackhorn 209, and the FPJ conversion for the MK-85 was not what I was looking for. The MK-85 has served me well these past 27 years taking numerous deer, the last a nice 8 pt this season. I was considering going smokeless at this point, but for my needs the cost is prohibitive.

Hopefully I won't have difficult breech plug removal with the CVA and T7.

I know it's a long post, thanks for reading and any info is appreciated.
 
i use teflon plumbers tape along with my tallow/bees wax mix. i have a knight wolverine with no problem removing the plug.
 
I quickly realized that Seized Breech plugs are part of inlines, the 3 i had (MK-85, Knight Mountaineer, and White Super 91) when Shooting Real Blackpowder, and Triple Seven. If i kept my Shots to no more that 6-8, i could usually get the Plug out just fine by Simply Holding the Rifle Firmly. I used Knight Breech Plug Grease, and PLENTY of it, It didn’t matter, if i shot more than say 8-10 Shots i could Count on dealing with a Seized/TIGHT Breech plug when i got Home. I was prepared for it, i made a Setup at home to Deal with it. I would use my Steam Cleaner first to get the Plug HOT, Then head out to my Clamp setup. It wasn’t difficult to get them out, Just an inconvenient Nuisance

This allowed me to Firmly hold the Action without Marring the Finish
NJ05ei4.jpg
 
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make sure your threads for breech plug are clean

I kept my Lehigh Breech Plug and Vent liner cleaner than Brand new, And Greased LIBERALLY, it would Stil Seize Tight after 8-10 Shots, And Obviously got worse the More i Shot beyond that. I’m sure a Clean plug from start helped Some though

0HvQcSn.jpg


Can’t get a Breech Plug, and Vent liner any Cleaner than this
TUHNa2m.jpg
 
I have a bk92 which is really the same gun just not as fancy . I use permatex thread sealant with tpfe (auto parts purchase)coating the threads male and female entirely . Ive also used valve grinding compound on the sealing end of the plug working it back and forth to lap in the seal between plug and barrel . This combination has preformed perfectly with no stuck plugs or even soot EVER entering the threads . 100% sealed . Never stuck either !!! :lewis:
Shoot it till it wont shoot no more and it STILL wont be stuck !!! This IS the ticket !!!
 
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I have a bk92 which is really the same gun just not as fancy . I use permatex thread sealant with tpfe (auto parts purchase)coating the threads male and female entirely . Ive also used valve grinding compound on the sealing end of the plug working it back and forth to lap in the seal between plug and barrel . This combination has preformed perfectly with no stuck plugs or even soot EVER entering the threads . 100% sealed . Never stuck either !!! :lewis:
Shoot it till it wont shoot no more and it STILL wont be stuck !!! This IS the ticket !!!

If i stil had an inline, i would definitely try this.

I did the Teflon Tape as well, Same Seized Plug Results after 8-10 Shots. Real Blackpowder and Triple Seven have a Way of GRABBING a Breech Plug, and hanging on to it. In this photo i have a Red Arrow Pointing to the Seal at the Nose, I was DEFINITELY getting a Good Seal
BN3vh9w.jpg
 
I have a bk92 which is really the same gun just not as fancy . I use permatex thread sealant with tpfe (auto parts purchase)coating the threads male and female entirely . Ive also used valve grinding compound on the sealing end of the plug working it back and forth to lap in the seal between plug and barrel . This combination has preformed perfectly with no stuck plugs or even soot EVER entering the threads . 100% sealed . Never stuck either !!! :lewis:
Shoot it till it wont shoot no more and it STILL wont be stuck !!! This IS the ticket !!!
When i start shooting my mk85, this is what im gonna do.
 
Cracking the breech plug loose right after my last shot, (while things are still warm), has been a help for me. I heard there is some kind of thread sealant that helps, can't remember the name of it though. Might try it.
Permatex thread sealant with ptfe @auto parts stores flounder . Just remember to lap in your plug with valve grinding compound before you seal the plug . Without lapping in the plug it still works excellant but its still NOT RIGHT . Lapping in the bp makes a perfect seal the way it SHOULD BE . Its mass produced so that "seal" needs to be fine tuned 100% . No other way makes it that way perminately , the way its designed to work !!! Anything else is a short cut even if it appears to work good its still not RIGHT .
Ps . --- download this thread so you cant forget !!!
 
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Cracking the breech plug loose right after my last shot, (while things are still warm), has been a help for me. I heard there is some kind of thread sealant that helps, can't remember the name of it though. Might try it.

Busta mentioned this as well, And This is another thing i wish i had tried when i was using Grease. Sabotloader Warned me to do this Back when i first did the Teflon Tape Method until i had it Down, and felt i could Trust it, he told me to Shoot my 5-6 Shots and then get on the Plug to make Sure it hadn’t Seized? I did this, and it Worked like a Charm. My problem came from shooting over 8-10 Shots, i shot as many as 20 Shots, Needless to say, Those were SEIZED UP TIGHT :eek: :D But like i said, and you can see above, i was Very WELL prepared to deal with it, I just considered it “Nature of the Beast” with inlines and Real Blackpowder, Triple Seven powders
 
Busta mentioned this as well, And This is another thing i wish i had tried when i was using Grease. Sabotloader Warned me to do this Back when i first did the Teflon Tape Method until i had it Down, and felt i could Trust it, he told me to Shoot my 5-6 Shots and then get on the Plug to make Sure it hadn’t Seized? I did this, and it Worked like a Charm. My problem came from shooting over 8-10 Shots, i shot as many as 20 Shots, Needless to say, Those were SEIZED UP TIGHT :eek: :D But like i said, and you can see above, i was Very WELL prepared to deal with it, I just considered it “Nature of the Beast” with inlines and Real Blackpowder, Triple Seven powders
Honest to God Lewis my method WORKS......100% :lewis:

AND im getting myself one of them steam cleaners too . THATS a great tip for my barrels with T7 !!! Corrosion wont have a chance !!!! :woohoo:
 
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Long time lurker, finally joined. I have been shooting muzzleloaders for 40+ years and have just encountered an issue I have never had before.

It is an issue with an original Knight MK-85 I purchased back in 1992. It is a 50 cal SS with laminated Forest green camo stock. I have shot black powder in it for testing, but went to Pyrodex RS as its standard load. Since the day I first shot it I have used the now discontinued Sure Fire breech plug. Recently however I noticed that the brass sealing seat had some pitting in 2 very small spots and was allowing leakage. Knowing that these plugs can and do wear out, I installed the original breech plug as I no longer have any new Sure Fire plugs.

Due to the fact that Pyrodex has the dreaded sulphur odor my wife dislikes, I thought I would finally try some Triple 7. Two reasons, one for no odor, and the other to regain velocity I lost with the change in breech plugs.

I bought Triple 7 3Fg as it lists the higher velocity. I also bought some CCI #11 magnum caps as there were no standard caps available. I shoot 240 XTP bullets in either Knight HP sabots or the now discontinued Hornady green sabots I used to buy in bulk. With 100 gr of Pyrodex RS by volume using #11 CCI caps this load normally shoots 1/2" to 3/4" groups at 100 yds. Velocity chronographed was 1933 av with ES of 27.

Using 100 gr of T7 3Fg and the CCI #11 magnum caps the recoil was brutal, and groups were closer to 3" at 100 yds. Guessing that I was pushing it, I backed off the charge to 80 gr by volume and groups tightened up to about 1 1/2" on average. I cleaned between shots with a wet patch and then dry patch to ensure I was down to the breech plug for each shot. I didn't have the time, nor conditions to chronograph this day.

I shot 12 shots total this day and noticed that the impact was higher at both 50 y and 100 y than the Pyrodex RS loads with the standard breech plug by about 2 1/2" at 100 y. I can live with that as I can adjust the scope for POI.

Now for the issue.

Upon returning home I started the disassembly to clean the rifle. The breech plug was near seized! I had to clamp it in a vise securely and work the breech plug slowly back and forth to remove it. It was the most difficult removal I ever encountered with this rifle. Clean up after that was easier than Pyrodex and my wife enjoyed the lack of odor.

A day or 2 later I again went to shoot the T7 80gr 3Fg load. CCI #11 mag caps, 240 gr XTP and Knight HP sabot. This day I shot 14 shots to try and verify POI and group size. Again cleaned between shots with wet and dry patch to breech plug. As I had run out of Knight HP sabots, I had bought a prepackaged Hornady XTP 240 gr setup with the low drag sabots. The loads with the HP sabots averaged 1 3/4" at 100 y while the prepackaged shot 3/8" groups! I got to thinking maybe my HP sabots were "dried out" as they were 20 some years old. (However with Pyrodex they still grouped inside 1" at 100 y a few days previous.) As time ran out I returned home and again had the difficult breech plug removal.

Two questions: Is it normal to have difficult breech plug removal with T7 in Knight rifles?
Can sabots deteriorate over time, have less lubricating properties?

I did order and received 2 new packages of Knight HP sabots and a box of Hornady 240 XTP bullets for next trip.

Also, as I have interest in Blackhorn 209 powder, and 209 primer ignition I ordered a CVA Optima (and BH breech plug) to give that a try. I would have converted the Knight to 209, but Knight did not recommend plunger fire with Blackhorn 209, and the FPJ conversion for the MK-85 was not what I was looking for. The MK-85 has served me well these past 27 years taking numerous deer, the last a nice 8 pt this season. I was considering going smokeless at this point, but for my needs the cost is prohibitive.

Hopefully I won't have difficult breech plug removal with the CVA and T7.

I know it's a long post, thanks for reading and any info is appreciated.
Yes sabots get weird acting over time especially with higher energy powders . I prefer Harvester crush rib sabots myself . Might want to see if theyll shoot for you too . I like them better because in my knight i am able (accuracy) to use MORE POWDER of the high energy type . ......some actually REALLY like recoil , even if it can damage brain cells.....LOL !!!! :D
Ps.---- im not completely nuts , i also REALLY like kick--eze safari magnum recoil pads too !!!!
 
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Loosen and re-tighten the breech plug every three shots when shooting at the range. Loosen it two or three revolutions when you are done shooting but before you leave the range. Main reason I retired my knight and shoot a CVA Optima V2 was fighting with the breech plug and the CVA is easier to clean.
 
When i start shooting my mk85, this is what im gonna do.
Permatex thread sealant with ptfe @auto parts stores flounder . Just remember to lap in your plug with valve grinding compound before you seal the plug . Without lapping in the plug it still works excellant but its still NOT RIGHT . Lapping in the bp makes a perfect seal the way it SHOULD BE . Its mass produced so that "seal" needs to be fine tuned 100% . No other way makes it that way perminately , the way its designed to work !!! Anything else is a short cut even if it appears to work good its still not RIGHT .
Ps . --- download this thread so you cant forget !!!
Afternoon: Thanks for the informative tip. I am somewhat new to muzzleloading and do not know what "lap in your plug with valve grinding compound" means?

Steve
 
If you got a perfect 100%seal , ground in , how is anything gonna reach those threads ????? It cant . The permatex thread sealant is the 1--2 punch that wont allow ANYTHING to get into the threads to sieze it up IF AND ONLY IF the Primary seal between bp and barrel FAILS .

ITS JUST THAT SIMPLE
 
Afternoon: Thanks for the informative tip. I am somewhat new to muzzleloading and do not know what "lap in your plug with valve grinding compound" means?

Steve
Ok , im gonna answer this with a new thread . I dont want to hi--jack this one even though it ENDS THE STUCK BREECH PLUG BLUES !!! Look for that title coming up as fast as i can 1 finger peck !!!
 
I hate grease! It is to dang messy!

I do use Teflon but there is somewhat of an art using it. Once you learn to clean the breech plug port to bare metal. Apply the tape correctly on the BP it does work very effectively. Another important thought - White, or one wrap of white tape may not be what you need. Several of the rifles I use require pink tape to take the excess space. Another thing that some do not do the BP must be turned up snug - not enough to tear the tape over the nose but enough to get a gas seal on the nose of the BP and barrel BP stop.

It does take trial and error - that really to me is the only down side.
 
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