broken stock

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Jerald

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I broke the stock on my TC Cherokee 45 yesterday, it cracked through the lock plate, behind the barrel. anyone familiar with this and a possible repair?
 
Many TC rifles break there. Some think its from tightening the screw too much. Some think recoil, and some think it's the grain of the wood.
I had one break from stupidity. I tried to glue it with accura glass gel. I also pinned it and worked on it for months. After mine broke the stiff recoil from a 460 gr bullet just kept breaking. I wish I had some successful info for you but I gave up on mine. Good luck.
 
I have a TC Hawken stock with a crack, and after reading on here and other sites, it doesn’t sound like the success rate of fixing that kind of problem is very good. I’m considering selling mine for the metal “parts” which are in great shape.
 
I watched a gunsmith fix a hairline crack in a T/C Hawken. He first stained the paper the same color as the stock area. Then he gently spread the crack with a wedge , spread epoxy to the paper and the crack, clamped with rubber bands.
When the repair dried, and rubbed smooth, it was practically in invisible.
You might research this method.
 
I’d try fixing it with wood glue, it’ll work best if you can get it open enough to make sure both surfaces get good glue coverage and then wipe off the excess with a damp paper towel. I’ve seen repairs that used pins or small brass screws. Maybe post a picture?
It’ll probably work better if you shoot patched balls rather than conical bullets. You can always buy a replacement stock on eBay but it’ll probably cost nearly as much as another gun.
 
I would 2nd Rusticbob’s suggestion above but also suggest using it with a slower setting, clear epoxy i.e. not the 5 min. epoxy.
 
I dropped my White Mountain on frozen ground and it cracked like yours.
I repaired it with epoxy and so far it has held. The repair is noticeable.
The problem with epoxy is if you close the crack you risk squeezing all
the epoxy out and starve the joint.
I use Titebond 3 now for repairs. It’s waterproof and brownish in color and
meant for wood.
I spread the crack and dampen the wood with a small amount of water.
Wait several minutes then work in the glue. Flex the crack gently to distribute
the glue and work it in. Clamp lightly, wipe the joint and see it more pressure is
necessary. Unlike epoxy Titebond used in this way can form a very thin glue line.
In fact Titebond is not a gap filler and requires a tight glue line.
The water used is because old gunstocks are exceptionally dry. A drop or
two of water helps this water based glue penetrate the pores.

You usually have one chance at an effective repair, after that cleaning out the
old glue and getting a fresh surface is difficult. Don’t expect perfection, if the
repair holds that is success. A little sanding and finishing can often disguise
the defect, but YOU will always know it’s there.
 
I have repaired a couple of Cherokee stocks by using devcon epoxy. I spread the joint and force the epoxy into the crack using a feeler gauge. i also use a brownells stock pin on the side with the crack. I also place a shortened deck screw under the tang. This screw is pilot drilled and countersunk and coated with epoxy. Seems to hold.
 
Accra glass gel works great and is dyeable to the shade you wish. I've repaired stocks completely broken at the wrist with good results. Works for bedding an action or barrel as well .Be sure to use the release agent or you will need a hatchet to remove the stock.
 
I have a TC Hawken stock with a crack, and after reading on here and other sites, it doesn’t sound like the success rate of fixing that kind of problem is very good. I’m considering selling mine for the metal “parts” which are in great shape.
let me know if you sell it, i am interested
 
My Cherokee 32 was repaired with Crazy Glue. It's held OK but looks rough...a refinish is in order. It's also restricted to PRBs and .010 patches with 20 grs of Pyro P. A satisfying small game load with about the power of a 22 LR.

Once you get this repaired, you might consider similar restrictions; they aren't making any more of these things.
 
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Here is a photo of my TC White Mountain repaired with epoxy. No attempt was made to
refinish the stock or disguise the repair. It’s held so far but maybe a screw under the
tang would help. It really shattered when I dropped it on frozen ground.

D96D5CCE-6FFC-44BF-A245-17ADA2693FE2.jpeg
 
Here is a first year (1948) 20ga Browning Superposed with repairs made with Titebond 3.
There were 2 checks that were caused by drying through the years. The large one is easily
seen and the smaller one almost invisible at the end where the point is in the checkering.
The large one was open and slightly displaced. You do your best and accept the result.
No attempt was made to refinish or disguise the repairs beyond a very light bronze wool
and some brown wax. The original finish is too important to mess with. And the overall
effect of this masterpiece in wood and blued steel is stunning. I love this shotgun!

7550B0F6-8E28-4DB6-980D-FC82CA7A7CDA.jpeg
 
Muzzy, I read the article and found it a good read. TY

I’ve for the most part have used “Whiting” to remove oils. Available at Brownells. Saves those long long steps the author uses. Has always worked for me.
Repaired a Fox Mdl B 20 ga. last fall. Broken through the p-grip completely on a angle from tang to rear bottom of p-grip in three pieces.Oil soaked at tang and buttstock screw hole. Buttstock screw hole drilled off center in buttstock contributed to the break.
Made similar repairs as to the authors , re-checkered the areas needed and finished.
Advised storing muzzle down.
But “Whiting” is my point here. Works great.
 
Here is a photo of my TC White Mountain repaired with epoxy. No attempt was made to
refinish the stock or disguise the repair. It’s held so far but maybe a screw under the
tang would help. It really shattered when I dropped it on frozen ground.

View attachment 14218
repairing mine with Acraglas and a threaded rod. there is room to drill a hole from the trigger guard to under the tang and fill with a steel thread rod and Acraglas.
 

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