777 pellets vs. loose.

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Are you getting a lot of blow back through the breech plug?
If not and the T7 is such a chore to use, you can burn regular black powder.
I can but part of the deal with buying this rifle and using an alternative to BP was a speedy clean up and several shots before a wipe down.

Today was 50/50.


Just as much time pulling the breech plug and making sure the flash hole was open as I did shooting.

With what leakage I have I have a hunch BP would have my scope and stock in pretty sad shape pretty quickly.
 
You might try adjusting the head space to see if that helps any.
The firing pin bushing, if tighten it in all the way, then back it out maybe a full turn or so. That might help. Also there are some small o-rings available. Push one into the primer pocket to help seal it up.
 
Starting to wonder if the flash hole may be too small.

I am not home to measure the torch tip cleaner I use but I almost bet that hole is .030 or smaller.
 
Vent liner is a removable screw that goes inside the breech plug. It has the flame hole in it. When the hole gets worn too big, accuracy opens up, you just replace the screw and dont have to replace the whole breech plug. Ideal for when you have it setup to work with a specific type of primer that gives no blow by into the breech. Also saves you some money as vent liners are cheaper than breech plugs.
 
BOR Lok bullets. I wonder if I need something heavier than the 100 grains worth of pellets to get the base to expand properly. Possibly make a more complete burn
 
Not sure what I am doing different, but I have only had to pull a breechplug at the range a handful of times to clean it in over 30 years.

Are you actually having misfires or are you thinking you will because the hole looks so crudded up? As long as it still fires, I don’t care what it looks like.

With 777, I swab after every shot. I generally use real spit for one patch (both sides) followed by 1 dry patch (both sides) and then reload without doing anything to the breechplug. Extremely rare to have a misfire. That is with loose powder. I have never shot pellets.

As far as your patch/ ramrod getting stuck, it takes a learning curve and finesse to run that first wet patch down the barrel. You have to start making very short, fast strokes when you start to feel resistance. If you just shove it down until it stops, it WILL get stuck. Having T handle on the rod helps a lot too. The kind that screws on the end and folds up when you don’t need it.
 
Had 1 misfire after 4 shots once. Cannot get a weld tip cleaner through after 3 shots so I am not chancing it. Cannot see daylight through it if you go more than 3 shots, doesnt just look crudded up, it is plugged up. I am not waiting for a misfire to clean. It will be happening on the 4th or 5th shot. Even after 2nd you have a hard time even seeing the hole and the tip cleaner has to be forced through. Smallest wire first then you can progress up to the next size to make sure the full diameter is open.


Break action so easier to remove plug. Hard to hold the action open and fight getting the cleaner through the flash hole.


No stuck ramrods I just push a patch through since plug is out anyway. I do believe these presoaked patches could be a little more damp. Not nearly as damp as what I use when swabbing the Hawken every other shot.

This is with pellets. Next trip will be with loose and I will try swabbing every single time. Possibly with a standard Winchester 209 primer as well.

Still have the issue of 30+ minutes to clean the bore at the house. Never spend near that time getting fouling for the sidelock with real black. This stuff sets up hard. Maybe patches that are more wet and between every single shot will help.
 
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10gauage, you're doing everything the right way in trying all the different powder styles and bullet choices. It takes time. The whole process might be easier though if you separate your comparing sidelock from the in-line.

First: understand that in-lines typically burn hotter than the sidelocks and in doing so create stuff that cooks on much harder than anything a sidelock can do.

Second: there's a whole world of difference between the different powders that can be used in in-lines [you already know that], but understand that as the powders you use get more advanced [T7 & BH as opposed to, say, pyrodex and true black] the more the after-shot issues become complex, like the crud ring and cleaning or clearing it. Flash channel and flame hole issues mount with some of the more advanced powders too, as you're finding out. Drop-down action, break or bolt, if you're using the more complex powder types you're going to have to work thru these issues as they pop up in a way that you can live with at the range or in the field. You see to be doing that and doing it well.

Dealing with the issues you are can be frustrating, but you'll prevail. When I made the transition from sidelock to in-line I started with a bolt gun because I was very familiar with my center-fires which were all bolts, thinking the new muzzy wouldn't be any different. I shot pellets in it and got a rude awakening, so I tried a half dozen different powders including two or three blacks but felt I was going backwards. I finally discovered the BH209 and thought I'd gone to heaven, yet I still had issues that I needed to overcome. Today I shoot a blended powder selection in that the range time sees T7 granular and the deer hunting sees the BH209. Each powder has its own challenges, and you'll find you way with them. If I were to offer anything at this point it would be to get away from the use of pellets simply so you don't end up settling on a charge that may be a limiting factor for something better.

I've been following this thread because I can see so much of the path I was on in it.... lots of parallels here. Enjoy the journey because it will have some super rewards in the end.
 
After shot number 3 with T7, I soak a patch with de-icer windshield washer fluid or windex run it down the bore with short in and out strokes
until I get to the breech. I try to get that fouling wet and soft…..follow with a damp patch…Repeat with the wet patch…then a couple dry patches…..snap a primer to clear the breech plug…reload.
Takes about 3min to swab out the bore..
I’m shooting a 1st generation Optima and it may have a smoother barrel and definitely the older wrench-needing breech plug.
 
10gauage, you're doing everything the right way in trying all the different powder styles and bullet choices. It takes time. The whole process might be easier though if you separate your comparing sidelock from the in-line.

First: understand that in-lines typically burn hotter than the sidelocks and in doing so create stuff that cooks on much harder than anything a sidelock can do.

Second: there's a whole world of difference between the different powders that can be used in in-lines [you already know that], but understand that as the powders you use get more advanced [T7 & BH as opposed to, say, pyrodex and true black] the more the after-shot issues become complex, like the crud ring and cleaning or clearing it. Flash channel and flame hole issues mount with some of the more advanced powders too, as you're finding out. Drop-down action, break or bolt, if you're using the more complex powder types you're going to have to work thru these issues as they pop up in a way that you can live with at the range or in the field. You see to be doing that and doing it well.

Dealing with the issues you are can be frustrating, but you'll prevail. When I made the transition from sidelock to in-line I started with a bolt gun because I was very familiar with my center-fires which were all bolts, thinking the new muzzy wouldn't be any different. I shot pellets in it and got a rude awakening, so I tried a half dozen different powders including two or three blacks but felt I was going backwards. I finally discovered the BH209 and thought I'd gone to heaven, yet I still had issues that I needed to overcome. Today I shoot a blended powder selection in that the range time sees T7 granular and the deer hunting sees the BH209. Each powder has its own challenges, and you'll find you way with them. If I were to offer anything at this point it would be to get away from the use of pellets simply so you don't end up settling on a charge that may be a limiting factor for something better.

I've been following this thread because I can see so much of the path I was on in it.... lots of parallels here. Enjoy the journey because it will have some super rewards in the end.
I just assumed the T7 would clean up easier and would give me more shots between swabbing than black.

Big mistake on my part.

The pellets were just a way to get started at the time I bought the rifle. I have 2 jugs of loose Triple 7 and 2 or 3 jugs of BH209. After season the pellets will be burned up and no more of those.
 
Pellets, Pyrodex. "HOLY BLACK" it all requires a substantial clean up, is one easier does wad or grease make it easier by me NO, no matter what is used what brand or loose or pellet I scrub the snot out of all of them anyway. Now some will swear pyrodex requires 2 cleanings 1 the day of and another in a week or so. I use Simple/Mean Green and heat my water in a pot although not boiling I have to use gloves. then splash of WD-40 wipe that off and a good lubricant for guns I have never had the "return rust" or "cleaning rust" show. to each his her own on the cleaning style and recipes Balistol is also a huge go to for the gun lubricant after the cleaning. I do not always have balistol so WD-40 is a qualifier
 

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