Accuracy question

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TWyatt

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I have a Wolf and an Optima, and spent several range sessions finding powder/bullet combinations for each gun. Last range session the Wolf seemed to love 90gr of B, H209 and the Scorpion PT 260gr in a crush rib. At 100 yards my last 5-6 shots were in a 2-3" group, 1" high. I was extremely pleased. With the Optima, 100gr BH209 and Barnes TEZ 290's were shooting equally as well. I left thoroughly pleased. Fast forward a few days and I decided to stop by the range again and just check everything and fire a few more shots. Now both guns were all over the place. High, right, 5-6" groups at 100yds. What the heck is going on. This is off of a lead sled too. Both guns were cleaned meticulously after every range session. Exact same components used every time.
Am I missing something? Everything is snug, nothing loose anywhere at all. Anything like the forearm screw matter, as in how loose or tight it is? Sounds like a stupid question, but I can't think of anything else. What would cause my groups to open up like that?
 
The tightness of the forearm screw does make a difference on my Wolf. I am sure to turn it counter clockwise until I feel it drop. Then 5 full revolutions clockwise.
 
I thought I had heard someone mention the forearm screw before, which is why I ask, although it makes no sense to me. The scope is mounted to the barrel, so how does the forearm screw affect anything?
 
Anything that has contact with the barrel has some influence on the point of impact and possibly the accuracy. Whatever those things (in contact with the barrel) are it will help to have them attached the same way every time. If not you have in affect changed the harmonics of the barrel. A forearm screw could do exactly that, if its not installed with the same torque it could change the harmonics of the barrel and it could change point of impact and could change the personality of the gun.

I know, lots of coulds in that line. All guns are individuals. Some may not be changed by the torque difference while other may have a dramatic affect

Bottom line for my advise is try to replace the screw with the same tension every time. It may not be the cause of the problem but it wont hurt anything.
 
I shoot my break action at the bench with a bi-pod and rear bag. I also rest my left hand on the front scope ring but don't hold onto it just to help a little with muzzle jump. About the lead sled, some use them and like them, I have seen too many scopes wrecked by shooters who use them one in particular broke a Leupold 7 times they always fixed it but started asking questions as to what was up with it. Just my 2cents.
 
Check your anchor point and make sure you are putting your eye to the center of focus then squeeze the trigger with the finger tip.
Pull butt stock to your shoulder with trigger hand while applying steady light down pressure to forearm. Follow thru!
Be careful not to bang your scope against objects.
Torque scope mountings properly.
 
Bi-pod attached to sling swivel stud on the forearm.
 
Update - went back and shot today - first 3 shots at 100yds. Apparently the accuracy problem was between my ears, not the gun. Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions though. Optima V2, 100gr BH209, Federal 209A, and Barnes TEZ 290's.

NEW PIC.jpg
 
Those are all rabbit killers.
Was the low shot first shot, from a clean barrel? I don’t clean when shooting BH209 until I’m done with my group, and even then, only if I’m trying different combo’s.
For me, the first, clean bore shot, almost always has a different POI, usually lower, regardless of the gun or the powder/bullet combo.
 
Yes, first shot was to the left, clean barrel. That first shot always irks the heck out of me, and I can never get it to hit with the rest. Mine are usually high, this was the first one I've seen hit slightly low. Wish I could just leave a dirty barrel all the time. My wolf and optima's first shots with clean barrel have typically been high by an inch or so, not usually like the picture, although that certainly could have been human error just as much as anything.
 
Still recommend losing the lead sled or don't weigh it down the very least...it puts a artificial forward force after ignition...broke the wrists on 2 of my wood stock guns....use what u r gonna take into the field........also all that matters is the first shot in a ML anyways.......you won't get a second. Use a cleaned cold barrel with 1 primer shot thru it when you go out in the field to prevent hangfires with loose powder...esp fffg.....own over 15 muzzle stuffers and in lines are the most fickle for their intended use...shots to over 200 yds....just my 2c
 
I don't put any weight in my lead sled. It just simply acts as a stable rest for me
 
Still recommend losing the lead sled or don't weigh it down the very least...it puts a artificial forward force after ignition...broke the wrists on 2 of my wood stock guns....use what u r gonna take into the field........also all that matters is the first shot in a ML anyways.......you won't get a second. Use a cleaned cold barrel with 1 primer shot thru it when you go out in the field to prevent hangfires with loose powder...esp fffg.....own over 15 muzzle stuffers and in lines are the most fickle for their intended use...shots to over 200 yds....just my 2c
I have gotten more than one second shot with a muzzleloader at the same animal, especially elk, not every shot is a heart or head shot. It all depends on the circumstances. Ideally, I want every shot to be in the group whether it's the first or tenth. Hard, if not almost impossible to do. It's what I try for though.
 

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