Advice on hunting loads for my .54 Hawken

[DKasprzak]

@CharlieTN … the last paragraph of @morehops post is dead on and great advice.

“The main point is YOUR rifle might like a complety different load and the only way to tell is to change variables one at a time and keep notes and target pics. Good luck, it's a fine gun.”

 

[Kalalau]

I had a .54 cal TC Hawken once. I used 100 grains of pyrodex and a 425 grain hollow point / hollow base buffalo bullet to take Feral Goats, Axis Deer, & Muflon Sheep. That combination knocks ‘‘em dead. That rifle was sold after I “upgraded” to the Knight MK-85 in 54 caliber.

 

[CharlieTN]

@CharlieTN … the last paragraph of @morehops post is dead on and great advice.

“The main point is YOUR rifle might like a complety different load and the only way to tell is to change variables one at a time and keep notes and target pics. Good luck, it's a fine gun.”

Oh, I get that. I’ve seen people shooting PRB loads anywhere from 60gr to 90gr so I was curious what most of you shot to get a better idea of a starting point. The Conical will be interesting and mostly for fun since I only have 20 of them to play with.

 

[Kelljp]

Lots of good advice posted, I've found 80-90 grains of FFG with the conical ( TC maxi-hunters) in my TC 54s seems to be the right mix. If I use FFFG I back it down to 70 grains. Just have to experiment to really know what works for you.

 

[ETipp]

If I want to shoot conicals that looks like the best option.

Definitely the cheapest route to go. Plus, you can stock up on them. This day and age, lead prices are going to keep going up, as with everything else. So stocking up on components after you find what your old smoke pole likes just makes sense.

I have been well served with the Maxi Balls I cast. Despite they do not expand (due to being hard cast) I have never lost a critter with them. Not even elk. They are simple, accurate and do the job on critters. However, now that I received some good advice from some members on here, I think I will melt them down, add some pure lead, and have some accurate lead that will expand. Can't hurt, eh?

With that said, I never fired a Maxi Ball out of the .54 Renegade I used to own. It was a round ball shooter. I have heard that the big ole .54 and Maxi Balls can be a bit stout. So there's also that to consider.

 

[morehops]

"Stout" would be a good word. I usually use "a pounding" but I've thankfully learned that using a Lead Sled or such has kept the recoil manageable. When I was developing loads I would even add a slip on recoil pad so I could shoot longer.

 

[CharlieTN]

"Stout" would be a good word. I usually use "a pounding" but I've thankfully learned that using a Lead Sled or such has kept the recoil manageable. When I was developing loads I would even add a slip on recoil pad so I could shoot longer.

One of those loads that kicks on both ends I’m sure.

 

[ETipp]

"Stout" would be a good word. I usually use "a pounding" but I've thankfully learned that using a Lead Sled or such has kept the recoil manageable. When I was developing loads I would even add a slip on recoil pad so I could shoot longer.

Ya know, I've found that with any stout loads in anything, whether it be rifle, pistol or shotgun, the only time I ever noticed the royal thump was while target shooting. I never even notice recoil while shooting at game. And you are correct, a good rest helps reduce the thump.

To that end, I've also found that recoil, in part, can be related to stock design. I had a Ruger .300 WIN MAG with a synthetic stock that had stout recoil. So much so that I purchased a different stock for it. Problem solved.

 

[eekjellander]

Definitely the cheapest route to go. Plus, you can stock up on them. This day and age, lead prices are going to keep going up, as with everything else. So stocking up on components after you find what your old smoke pole likes just makes sense.

I have been well served with the Maxi Balls I cast. Despite they do not expand (due to being hard cast) I have never lost a critter with them. Not even elk. They are simple, accurate and do the job on critters. However, now that I received some good advice from some members on here, I think I will melt them down, add some pure lead, and have some accurate lead that will expand. Can't hurt, eh?

With that said, I never fired a Maxi Ball out of the .54 Renegade I used to own. It was a round ball shooter. I have heard that the big ole .54 and Maxi Balls can be a bit stout. So there's also that to consider.

Cut to the chase , stick with pure or waste your time and lead ! You have the material (PURE) use it and see the difference , again you do not want alloyed lead just pure . It makes a difference on POA /loading /impact at BP velocities/Ed

 

[morehops]

One of those loads that kicks on both ends I’m sure.

I used to use 110g of powder under that 430g maxi. I got tired of having my fillings rattled loose & replaced at the dentist. I backed it down to 90g
and now I just go see my chiropractor

 

[Harley469]

I use .535 round balls with a .50 pillow ticking patch, which I simply buy pre-lubed (can't remember who makes them- Thompson Center or Traditions maybe). I hate the smell of Black Powder and Pyrodex, so I use Triple Seven (80-90grns). Extremely accurate, cleaning between shots. I lick one patch and run it, and then a couple other patches, using both sides. I have shot conicals through it, but the round balls perform just a bit better. Just shot a doe last week with this load and the ball entered through her shoulder and exited out her lower opposite side (was in a tree stand). That was with 90grns of Triple Seven. I "can" extend that all the way out to 100 yrds, but like to keep it within 50yrds.

 

[ETipp]

Cut to the chase , stick with pure or waste your time and lead ! You have the material (PURE) use it and see the difference , again you do not want alloyed lead just pure . It makes a difference on POA /loading /impact at BP velocities/Ed

I understand what you are conveying. I really do. However, wheel weights use to be plentiful and free. Also, I have always gotten good accuracy out of my hand cast Maxi Balls. But, if I can find some pure lead to purchase without having to sell a kidney then I might go pure lead. I suspect the best I can to for now is to mix it.

 

[Renegadehunter]

I use .535 round balls with a .50 pillow ticking patch, which I simply buy pre-lubed (can't remember who makes them- Thompson Center or Traditions maybe). I hate the smell of Black Powder and Pyrodex, so I use Triple Seven (80-90grns). Extremely accurate, cleaning between shots. I lick one patch and run it, and then a couple other patches, using both sides. I have shot conicals through it, but the round balls perform just a bit better. Just shot a doe last week with this load and the ball entered through her shoulder and exited out her lower opposite side (was in a tree stand). That was with 90grns of Triple Seven. I "can" extend that all the way out to 100 yrds, but like to keep it within 50yrds.

Just FYI, you typo'd your patch thickness size.
If you didn't, remind me to never mess with you!

 

[Harley469]

Just FYI, you typo'd your patch thickness size.
If you didn't, remind me to never mess with you!

I meant that the patch is for a .50 barrel. I don't know the actual "thickness" of the patch without looking it up.

 

[brad502a]

Cut to the chase , stick with pure or waste your time and lead ! You have the material (PURE) use it and see the difference , again you do not want alloyed lead just pure . It makes a difference on POA /loading /impact at BP velocities/Ed

I personally use 40:1 lead tim alloy. I find that it works very well and even allow for expansion.

 

[Bad Karma]

I personally use 40:1 lead tim alloy. I find that it works very well and even allow for expansion.

I have two pots, one with 30:1 and the other pure lead. The pure lead is used mostly for cap and ball revolver bullets and some rifle bullets, the alloy is good for round ball and rifle bullets. I haven’t used wheel weights in a long time. Lead is becoming more expensive but I spend a bunch on rifles, molds, etc. doesn’t make sense to skimp on then part that does the real work.