There is a lot of considerations with the 1911. Or they are better understood than most pistols. And it is a lot to understand. I messed with these guns a whole lot and at the end of the day, I can now admit, I dont know as much as I thought I did at the time.
Most of the slide effort is in the hammer (main) spring. You can cock the gun, then rack the slide. You can carry it cock & locked. You carry cocked. Or you may not carry a 1911 and simply cock it before you rack it back. I would do this before messing with the springs.
Generally people match the spring to the load and that is often to prevent damage to the frame with heavy loads. On a match guns, the ammo maybe loaded very mild and the springs need be light. The stock hammer spring has a little extra power for reliable ignition. You can bring that down a tad. A light hammer will contribute a bit to a light trigger pull, as part of setting up the gun for competition. It a matter how light you can go with both springs and keep the gun working with the lightest ammo.
You can buy these little rubber bumper pads the go inside the slide, behind the link. Put one in and see how it looks after 200 rounds. Then consider the spring situation. The bad deal is too much spring can batter a gun closing or firing and too little spring can beat it up on opening. That goes for both springs. IMHO, the gun should be setup close to just right and not set for comfort.
I downloaded the Ruger manual. It states you can use 'any' commercial load. That suggest the gun is setup for +P. That would also suggest to me, the springs can both dialed back for standard hardball ammo. There should be a known convention for that. I would be surprised if Ruger is much help. Those rubber bumpers wont hurt anything.
I will put a plug in for Wolff on springs.