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Based only on my muzzleloader (not cartridge) experience, I expect that you’ll need to start with reduced powder charges, if substituting FFFg for FFg when using load data for FFg.

I’m sure the Lyman Black Powder Handbook (and other publications) can give you a ballpark percentage that you’ll want to reduce your starting powder charge.

With all due respect to the many experienced folks here… I prefer to get my load info from published sources.

(Edit- I hope that I understood your question correctly…)
 
Based only on my muzzleloader (not cartridge) experience, I expect that you’ll need to start with reduced powder charges.

I’m sure the Lyman Black Powder Handbook (and other publications) can give you a ballpark percentage that you’ll want to reduce your starting powder charge.

With all due respect to the many experienced folks here… I prefer to get my load info from published sources.
Not asking for load info. I have the most recent Lyman book. I will be working up my own loads unique to this rifle. That said, the Swiss site says its 2FG is for 45 cal and larger and says its 3FG is for 45 cal and smaller. Hence my question since they overlap. Have experienced shooters here found that 2FG is better than 3FG or vice versa? Or, is it related to temperature and/or humidity? Or, is there just a personal preference as to burn rate and/or fouling? Since availability of Swiss and cost are now issues, at least for me, I am just trying to figure which one to buy and try first.
 
My answer probably won't help too much but I shoot both 2f and 3f Swiss in my sidehammer guns.
I've kinda tested a bit and found that a volume load of say 70 grains under a round ball will hit about the same spot at 50 yards with either grade. The 3f does seem to be a bit cleaner burning.
 
For a 45/70 Firing out of a Sharps style rifle is there a discernible difference between FFG and FFFG?
Swiss 1 1/2 is probably the most commonly used [and best] powder in 45-70 for target or silhouette. Swiss FF can also be used if you want more velocity. I know a few guys that use FFF Swiss in their ctgs. A full case of any of the Swiss powders will give you varying results in accuracy. Recoil increases with FF and especially with FFF. Recoil with FFF and big bullets will be memorable. If you are doing load development in a Sharps, start with 1 1/2 if you can, then try FF. I'd skip any testing with FFF. Choose accuracy over velocity every time. X
 
Swiss 1 1/2 is probably the most commonly used [and best] powder in 45-70 for target or silhouette. Swiss FF can also be used if you want more velocity. I know a few guys that use FFF Swiss in their ctgs. A full case of any of the Swiss powders will give you varying results in accuracy. Recoil increases with FF and especially with FFF. Recoil with FFF and big bullets will be memorable. If you are doing load development in a Sharps, start with 1 1/2 if you can, then try FF. I'd skip any testing with FFF. Choose accuracy over velocity every time. X
Good to know...Thank you
 
I use 2ff swiss with dual diameter PP bullet, 530 grain. 1.5 shoots it little slow. What make Rifle you have?
 
A Pedersoli 1874 Sharps style - 32" barrel
you will need to wipe between shots with that length barrel. Use soluble oil with distilled water about 1 part oil with 8 water. Try 70 grains 2ff swiss
 
you will need to wipe between shots with that length barrel. Use soluble oil with distilled water about 1 part oil with 8 water. Try 70 grains 2ff swiss
What bullet are you planning on trying? X
 
Still looking for my first purchase. Grain size ~400 - 525. RN or RNFP. Mostly out of stock so far...
If you are going to shoot target or silhouette, get a 500+ grain bullet that is shaped like the lyman postell. Lyman, saeco, RCBS all make one or more that look similar. The flat pointed bullets are fine for cowboy shooting or hunting but don't cut through the air like a more streamlined bullet. X
 
If you are going to shoot target or silhouette, get a 500+ grain bullet that is shaped like the lyman postell. Lyman, saeco, RCBS all make one or more that look similar. The flat pointed bullets are fine for cowboy shooting or hunting but don't cut through the air like a more streamlined bullet. X
Thanks for the info. I have pretty much settled on a Postell design for their wind cutting ability from what I have read. But finding them has proved to be a challenge so far. Eventually I will cast my own but prior to getting a mold I want to be certain on the design. Plus, I want to start PPing which means a slick vs a grooved design -- at least from my research. I read one can PP a grooved bullet but slick were preferred. Is that your experience?
 
Thanks for the info. I have pretty much settled on a Postell design for their wind cutting ability from what I have read. But finding them has proved to be a challenge so far. Eventually I will cast my own but prior to getting a mold I want to be certain on the design. Plus, I want to start PPing which means a slick vs a grooved design -- at least from my research. I read one can PP a grooved bullet but slick were preferred. Is that your experience?
watch that paper doesn't stick in the grooves. I see no reason to PP a grooved bullet
 
I,ve seen some muzzleloader guys shoot PP grooved bullets on here, but slicks are the way to go if your gonna shoot them in a cartridge gun.
 
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