Brass frame revolver

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A friend of mine is interested in getting a cap and ball revolver. He likes one of those brass frame ones that he saw.
Are those ok or should the full steel frame be better.
 
If he stays light on the powder charges and doesn't get into projectiles other than balls he should be able to enjoy the pistol for quite a while. Jack up charges with heavier projectiles and he could hammer the brass enough to loosen things up, then its a wall hanger.
 
I agree. The brass frame is a great inexpensive way to start shooting c&b revolvers. I shot one for years. When he's ready to upgrade i bet he can get most of his money back. They hold their value well enough if cared for. The brass frames are purty when polished up.
 
I'm of a different opinion, having shot a couple Ruger Old Army's with brass frames. I load mine hot, routinely stuffing 45 grs. of triple 7 over a round ball, or 40 grains over a Kaido 220 gr pure lead bullet. I also have two Classic Ballistix cylinders that will hold more powder than that. There is no difference between the brass and steel frames that I own. The truth is none of us is likely to shoot one gun enough to wear out a component as robust as the grip frame. Not saying it's impossible, just highly unlikely. I always admired the ROA with the brass frame, and the factory didn't make that many of them. If your friend likes the way they look I would say go for it.
 
I'm of a different opinion, having shot a couple Ruger Old Army's with brass frames. I load mine hot, routinely stuffing 45 grs. of triple 7 over a round ball, or 40 grains over a Kaido 220 gr pure lead bullet. I also have two Classic Ballistix cylinders that will hold more powder than that. There is no difference between the brass and steel frames that I own. The truth is none of us is likely to shoot one gun enough to wear out a component as robust as the grip frame. Not saying it's impossible, just highly unlikely. I always admired the ROA with the brass frame, and the factory didn't make that many of them. If your friend likes the way they look I would say go for it.
Thanks for the info, I'll pass it along.
 
That ROA is a totally different beast than an 1858. The ROA has no max load. Meaning you can shoot as much powder as you can get it to hold. The 58, even a steel frame, has a max load that shouldnt be exceeded. But i agree that it takes some effort to wear and stretch a brass framed 58. A new shooter probably wont be pushing it that hard. They shoot best at less than max, just like most guns.
 
I'm of a different opinion, having shot a couple Ruger Old Army's with brass frames. I load mine hot, routinely stuffing 45 grs. of triple 7 over a round ball, or 40 grains over a Kaido 220 gr pure lead bullet. I also have two Classic Ballistix cylinders that will hold more powder than that. There is no difference between the brass and steel frames that I own. The truth is none of us is likely to shoot one gun enough to wear out a component as robust as the grip frame. Not saying it's impossible, just highly unlikely. I always admired the ROA with the brass frame, and the factory didn't make that many of them. If your friend likes the way they look I would say go for it.
Are you talking about Ruger Old Army with GRIP BRASS FRAME like this one:

ROA brass grip.jpg
In my humble opinion, this is the most beautiful BP revolver ever made. If you have this one, you have gem.
 
Hi,
Don't you just love those square back trigger guards.
Brian
I am really tempted to put grip frame with square trigger-guard on my Ruger Old Army. Still kicking myself for not getting it from a friend while he had it.
 
There is no way a Ruger Old Army with a brass trigger guard and gripstrap can be compared with a Cap & Ball pistol that has a brass frame.
The Ruger frame and cylinder are made from modern high strength alloy steel and basically are the same as a Blackhawk.
The C&B pistols with a brass frame are considerably weaker.
That said if the powder loads in a brass framed pistol are kept to the moderate to low power levels and they are loaded with lead roundballs, they can last a long time before they are worn out.

Powder loads of 15 to 18 grains in the .36 caliber and 20 to 23 grains in the .44 caliber Colts and Remingtons are about right for a brass frame revolver.
 
I realize this thread's a little bit old but I'll add my two cents.

Here is a pic of my beauty. Chambered in .45 she never existed in history however she still looks great.

I never use triple 7 in da brass. Black p only! I use 12 grain baby charge. She kicks like a .32 or 9mm. Basically really light recoil.

and I tell you the only thing that I would do differently with this purchase is buy the steel framed version.

why would I go with the steel frame version? Now that is for a number of reasons. Primarily because I really enjoy shooting black powder I try to shoot as often as possible. Obviously steel doesn't peen out like the brass does. Another reason is resale value if you ever go to sell that pistol you'll get some more money and more interest in a steel one.

Whatever you do if you do get a brass one try to avoid triple seven avoid pyridex shoot using real black powder.

Why? because that's what hodgdons says. I know because I asked them directly. in fact much of what I post with the exception of human errors are posted from fact not opinions on the internet.

Just sayin before all the i shoot triple seven in my cap and ball all the time comments roll in.🙄IMG_20201025_041948_7.jpg

Here's a pic of my mini paper cartridges...

16036152066604656486980527682157.jpg
 
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There is no way a Ruger Old Army with a brass trigger guard and gripstrap can be compared with a Cap & Ball pistol that has a brass frame.
The Ruger frame and cylinder are made from modern high strength alloy steel and basically are the same as a Blackhawk.
The C&B pistols with a brass frame are considerably weaker.
That said if the powder loads in a brass framed pistol are kept to the moderate to low power levels and they are loaded with lead roundballs, they can last a long time before they are worn out.

Powder loads of 15 to 18 grains in the .36 caliber and 20 to 23 grains in the .44 caliber Colts and Remingtons are about right for a brass frame revolver.

I think he is confusing the ROA brass trigger guard as the frame?
 
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