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Translation issues I"m guessing , also equates Lee with precision molds /Ed
Buffalo Arms Molds VS Accurate Bullet Molds
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Claudius
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Some targets using cheaper Lee molds, the first one with a Pedersoli Sharps at 200 meters, the second one with a Pedersoli Mortimer flintlock at 50 meters.
I think that in the real worl of the black powder there is just one rule: no rules! And this is the reason why I like the black powder guns so much. And I don't need to offend anyone for this.
I think that in the real worl of the black powder there is just one rule: no rules! And this is the reason why I like the black powder guns so much. And I don't need to offend anyone for this.
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There is absolutely rules from cleaning to form to what the gun likes to what patch /what material /what lube and combination of wad /wad stacking with what powder/powder granulation !!!!!!!!!!! Since we have already discussed the relevance of molds to our (SPORT) lets just point out the obvious , of course there are rules in all it"s forms relating to Black powder/subs and muzzle loaders in general and nope not offended in the least if that"s something you find foreign to this sport ,but yep there's rules (lots) and because you don"t grasp that doesn"t change that fact. . The reason I"m here is to learn and I have (a lot) and Idaho Lewis is probably my go to for how to anything related to BP guns (sidelocks) in particular so no offence taken but sure is annoying to hear stuff that has no basis in fact as Lewis proves his stuff daily/Ed
Claudius
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I'm writing politely and showing my results with molds different from BACO products and Idaho Lewis assessments. But I got some names and bad adjectives from you and IL, like "Claudingus", "annoying", "dead horse" and other things you can read in this topic. And this just for opinions different from yours. This is not fair.
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Must be the interpretation thing again ,annoying is exactly my opinion when describing your (FACTS) vs What Lewis shows in detail so (everyone) can duplicate his findings ,He has a you tube channel also so others can learn how too !
The dead horse comment was my frustration of pointing out (like beating a dead horse ) the futility of discussing the effort to explain the differences to you , so it is the end of trying /have a nice day I have a garden to weed and a horse to bury/Ed
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And these are my PP bullets for my Sharps coming from a very poor made and "out of round" italian mold. In the second picture you can see a 6 shots @200m target realized with these PP bullets, the coin is our european 1 euro. I think that you 2 guys here are missing something important in the spirit of the black powder world. I don't need to be arrogant with anyone, fortunately. Have a nice day with your weed.
P.S.
Usually I need 6 shots at least to adequately understand the way my bullets are working, this is normal because I have to warming up the barrel and considering the fouling shot, 5 shots is my minimum standard shooting.
P.S. nr.2
For every mold we are using we must consider that it was designed just for one type of alloy, like some Lyman molds that were conceived for the Lyman #2 alloy. Every alloy has its own different properties, and our bullets shrink more or less following tin or/and antimony content, for this reason a "perfect" mold simply cannot exist. This apply for properly made molds, not for defective design or production. The sizer is an important tool not because correcting defective mold problems, but to give us the right size bullets.
P.S.
Usually I need 6 shots at least to adequately understand the way my bullets are working, this is normal because I have to warming up the barrel and considering the fouling shot, 5 shots is my minimum standard shooting.
P.S. nr.2
For every mold we are using we must consider that it was designed just for one type of alloy, like some Lyman molds that were conceived for the Lyman #2 alloy. Every alloy has its own different properties, and our bullets shrink more or less following tin or/and antimony content, for this reason a "perfect" mold simply cannot exist. This apply for properly made molds, not for defective design or production. The sizer is an important tool not because correcting defective mold problems, but to give us the right size bullets.
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Hello all, I’m Tom of Accurate Molds.
I’ve received an inquiry from a customer about this thread and I’d like to respond here to add some information which some may find helpful.
Lathe boring involves using stationary cutters on an assembled, spinning mold block. Alignment pin fitment is fully finished before the block is put in the lathe.
My diameter tolerance window of .002” refers to the bullet produced, not the cavity.
I measure every cavity of every mold, in process, just before the final, finish pass. Adjustments in increments of .0001” are made as the day progresses, to correct for heat expansion within the lathe itself, and a minuscule amount of tool wear. My process results in a CAVITY tolerance window of close to zero. Cavities are absolutely round at room temperature.
I have a .002” bullet diameter tolerance because I have no control over the user’s casting method, alloy purity, or measuring skill.
There are countless casting techniques, and none of them are wrong if they work for the caster. But each can produce slightly different results.
Temperature is a big issue, because mold block metal and the cavities within expand with heat. Naturally, I account for this with my cavity diameters. Aluminum expands more than brass, which expands more than iron. The cavity diameter used for any given bullet spec will be different in each of those metals. Increase the temperature of the block, and you increase bullet diameter.
About 15 years ago Keith B. “The Perfesser” on the boolits forum posted his cavity heat expansion test results. This is extremely difficult to measure because of the rapid heat exchange between the inside micrometer and the mold block, expanding the measuring instrument.
My later testing, while developing my business, produced similar results.
Both of us found that of the three commonly used mold block metals, Iron alone showed significantly non-uniform expansion. Cavities lost roundness as temperature increased. The variance at normal mold block temperature of around 350 degrees was less than a thousandth, but it was there.
Videos posted by Lewis show that he maintains mold temperature of at least 600 degrees. While there is nothing wrong with this method, it helps explain why I have a .002” bullet diameter tolerance window.
So why are BACO molds expanding with greater uniformity at this extreme temperature?
Different block size? Different type of iron? I don’t know. No one else has ever complained to me of the issue, and if others were getting .002 out of round bullets I’d certainly hear about it very loudly from thousands of customers.
The bottom line is that this casting method is so unusual that the issue simply isn’t relevant for 99.999% of bullet casters, and Lewis is happy with BACO. His findings should be very helpful to anyone else who wants to keep their block that hot.
I’ve received an inquiry from a customer about this thread and I’d like to respond here to add some information which some may find helpful.
Lathe boring involves using stationary cutters on an assembled, spinning mold block. Alignment pin fitment is fully finished before the block is put in the lathe.
My diameter tolerance window of .002” refers to the bullet produced, not the cavity.
I measure every cavity of every mold, in process, just before the final, finish pass. Adjustments in increments of .0001” are made as the day progresses, to correct for heat expansion within the lathe itself, and a minuscule amount of tool wear. My process results in a CAVITY tolerance window of close to zero. Cavities are absolutely round at room temperature.
I have a .002” bullet diameter tolerance because I have no control over the user’s casting method, alloy purity, or measuring skill.
There are countless casting techniques, and none of them are wrong if they work for the caster. But each can produce slightly different results.
Temperature is a big issue, because mold block metal and the cavities within expand with heat. Naturally, I account for this with my cavity diameters. Aluminum expands more than brass, which expands more than iron. The cavity diameter used for any given bullet spec will be different in each of those metals. Increase the temperature of the block, and you increase bullet diameter.
About 15 years ago Keith B. “The Perfesser” on the boolits forum posted his cavity heat expansion test results. This is extremely difficult to measure because of the rapid heat exchange between the inside micrometer and the mold block, expanding the measuring instrument.
My later testing, while developing my business, produced similar results.
Both of us found that of the three commonly used mold block metals, Iron alone showed significantly non-uniform expansion. Cavities lost roundness as temperature increased. The variance at normal mold block temperature of around 350 degrees was less than a thousandth, but it was there.
Videos posted by Lewis show that he maintains mold temperature of at least 600 degrees. While there is nothing wrong with this method, it helps explain why I have a .002” bullet diameter tolerance window.
So why are BACO molds expanding with greater uniformity at this extreme temperature?
Different block size? Different type of iron? I don’t know. No one else has ever complained to me of the issue, and if others were getting .002 out of round bullets I’d certainly hear about it very loudly from thousands of customers.
The bottom line is that this casting method is so unusual that the issue simply isn’t relevant for 99.999% of bullet casters, and Lewis is happy with BACO. His findings should be very helpful to anyone else who wants to keep their block that hot.
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What is ignorant ? Tom explained his process (Does it well) and backs it up with verified expert aside from himself ,so again ignorant? I use both molds without issue ,thou BACO actually sends samples cast by the mold you bought .Wish accurate did too /Ed
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Tom, What temperature do you recommend having pure lead at?
it is a fact just as I stated , good and bad in all of them
I keep my mold hot enough to make good, non wrinkled bullets. My infrared thermometer says that's about 350 deg.
And I realize that this is heresy to traditionalists, but I use aluminum molds.
But I really don't recommend; you should use what works for you. There is no wrong way, but accept the inherent problems when using extreme methods.
And I realize that this is heresy to traditionalists, but I use aluminum molds.
But I really don't recommend; you should use what works for you. There is no wrong way, but accept the inherent problems when using extreme methods.
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Tom, Glad to have you here at MML. Stick around if you got the time.
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Tom, how hot do you get your lead for your molds?
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You can google him
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That’s not his
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