Bullet Casting for my CVA WOLF .50 cal

[HC]

What's the price on a accurate mold I like to find a nipple to fit my 50 cal night don't have the original and don't know what size threads it is got any advice

1/4-28

 

[turtlelonghair]

Yeah I've noticed they got four different nipples two is metric and one is one quarter an 28 I forgot to other one

 

[turtlelonghair]

Cuz I need the nipple and the breech plug both are shot

 

[eekjellander]

Well I have two Lee molds one is 45 caliber conical the other is 36 caliber round ball I've never had no trouble with them

Ever have a quality mold? I have a bunch of Lees mostly for round ball/REAls but there is no comparison with an NOE/Accurate/BACO as far as performance/cost or value . If I need a perfect bullet I know where I go ,I pay the money and all the time preping casting and shooting that valuble/SCARCE lead/primer /powder pays off . You have to know what your time is worth at the range ,mine is priceless so I shop accordingly ,squirrels die by Lee no problem but long range is demanding and I need to stack the deck to beat the neighbors !!!!!!!!!!!! /Ed

 

[Saxtonyoung]

An Accurate Mold is made one to a time and is tailored to fit your needs. I've also used a lot of Lee Molds but your choices are limited unless your willing to pay Lee to make you a custom mold.

 

[Idaholewis]

There’s no comparison between accurate and lee molds.

What HC Said here, and others Accurate Molds and Lee Molds don’t belong in the same Sentence I have owned several Lee Molds, I don’t own ANY of them anymore. Most of my molds are Accurate Molds in Iron/Steel

 

[ThePackman]

What HC Said here, and others Accurate Molds and Lee Molds don’t belong in the same Sentence I have owned several Lee Molds, I don’t own ANY of them anymore. Most of my molds are Accurate Molds in Iron/Steel

Hey Idaholewis. Should I order those molds as they are or should I ask for modifications. I noticed the bullet I want (50-385M) has a diameter of 0.505. I also noticed in some of your shooting notes your bullets were 0.5. Also when I fill out the order sheet it asks me what casting alloy I will be using. I will be using pure lead unless that is a bad idea. I notice you had 1:40 tin lead. Also there is an option to have a trough on the sprue plate, Ive never seen this. Is there a good reason to get the trough?

Thanks for your help thus far I greatly appreciate it. I can't wait to do a hunt with a bullet I cast. If I'm lucky ill recover it, recast it and do it again with another tag haha.

 

[Idaholewis]

Hey Idaholewis. Should I order those molds as they are or should I ask for modifications. I noticed the bullet I want (50-385M) has a diameter of 0.505. I also noticed in some of your shooting notes your bullets were 0.5. Also when I fill out the order sheet it asks me what casting alloy I will be using. I will be using pure lead unless that is a bad idea. I notice you had 1:40 tin lead. Also there is an option to have a trough on the sprue plate, Ive never seen this. Is there a good reason to get the trough?

Thanks for your help thus far I greatly appreciate it. I can't wait to do a hunt with a bullet I cast. If I'm lucky ill recover it, recast it and do it again with another tag haha.

You really need to know your Bore Diameter, Then order the Mold about .002 Over it, You can always purchase a Bullet Sizer (HIGHLY Recommended!) and Size to whatever you need? Pure lead and up to 1-40 Alloy is the Best way to go For Hunting, in my opinion anyway. Anything over 1-40 Alloy Hardness and you Won’t get Much, if Any Expansion at Typical ML Velocities with Real Blackpowder and Subs Like Triple Seven & Pyrodex, Pushing Big Lead.
When ordering, In the alloy notes Simply state that you plan to Shoot Pure Lead & up to 1-40 Alloy, Casting difference between the 2 won’t make enough Difference to Speak of. As for the Trough in the Sprue Plate, That is for Multi Cavity Molds, You want the Standard Sprue Plate

There is a Thread that Started on How to Order an Accurate Mold, it is a “Sticky/Pinned” at the Top when you open the Casting Sub Forum. Here it is
https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/threads/ordering-an-accurate-bullet-mold-how-to.37442/

 

[Idaholewis]

Hey Idaholewis. Should I order those molds as they are or should I ask for modifications. I noticed the bullet I want (50-385M) has a diameter of 0.505. I also noticed in some of your shooting notes your bullets were 0.5. Also when I fill out the order sheet it asks me what casting alloy I will be using. I will be using pure lead unless that is a bad idea. I notice you had 1:40 tin lead. Also there is an option to have a trough on the sprue plate, Ive never seen this. Is there a good reason to get the trough?

Thanks for your help thus far I greatly appreciate it. I can't wait to do a hunt with a bullet I cast. If I'm lucky ill recover it, recast it and do it again with another tag haha.

If you have anymore Questions just ask

As for a Bullet Sizer (Again, Depending on Bore Diameter?) You can get a Lee .501 Push through Sizer (of course you need a Reloading Press to use a Push through Style Sizer Die) If by chance you need it Larger than .501? you can Simply Open the Die SLOWLY With a Piece of Round Stock wrapped With 600 Grit Sand Paper, Rolling it Back N Forth across a Flat Surface, The Key is to GO SLOW, AND CHECK OFTEN!! With patience, You can Dial a Bullet Right in to your Bore Or you could get a REALLY nice Adjustable Sizer Die like i just Did, They are Expensive, but WELL worth it

I went with a Hankins Smooth adjustable Sizer, Due to it being Stainless Steel. I use an RCBS Lube Pad with RCBS Case Lube 2 Lubricant (Water based) I Roll my Bullets over the Lube Pad, then Size them. With a Lee Push through Sizer you need to Clean the Die, and Push Rod THOROUGHLY, and then Oil Good for protection after using the RCBS Case Lube 2, if not they Can/Will Rust, With The Stainless Steel Hankins Smooth Side Sizer I don’t have to Worry as much, Though i stil Clean and Oil the Die and Push Stem after each use

https://hanksprecisiongunparts.com/p/smooth-bullet-sizing-die-complete-kit

 

[ThePackman]

If you have anymore Questions just ask

As for a Bullet Sizer (Again, Depending on Bore Diameter?) You can get a Lee .501 Push through Sizer (of course you need a Reloading Press to use a Push through Style Sizer Die) If by chance you need it Larger than .501? you can Simply Open the Die SLOWLY With a Piece of Round Stock wrapped With 600 Grit Sand Paper, Rolling it Back N Forth across a Flat Surface, The Key is to GO SLOW, AND CHECK OFTEN!! With patience, You can Dial a Bullet Right in to your Bore Or you could get a REALLY nice Adjustable Sizer Die like i just Did, They are Expensive, but WELL worth it

I went with a Hankins Smooth adjustable Sizer, Due to it being Stainless Steel. I use an RCBS Lube Pad with RCBS Case Lube 2 Lubricant (Water based) I Roll my Bullets over the Lube Pad, then Size them. With a Lee Push through Sizer you need to Clean the Die, and Push Rod THOROUGHLY, and then Oil Good for protection after using the RCBS Case Lube 2, if not they Can/Will Rust, With The Stainless Steel Hankins Smooth Side Sizer I don’t have to Worry as much, Though i stil Clean and Oil the Die and Push Stem after each use

https://hanksprecisiongunparts.com/p/smooth-bullet-sizing-die-complete-kit

I happen to have a press. So if I have a sizer/press should I just order the bullets stock? Also what is the best way to measure a barrel. I have some digital calipers and i tried to carefully measure the barrel but got all kinds of readings. I got a couple of readinga at .5005 and .501 but a few were .478 and one was .507...

 

[Idaholewis]

I happen to have a press. So if I have a sizer/press should I just order the bullets stock? Also what is the best way to measure a barrel. I have some digital calipers and i tried to carefully measure the barrel but got all kinds of readings. I got a couple of readinga at .5005 and .501 but a few were .478 and one was .507...

Measuring Bore diameter can be Tricky, i have Small Hole Gauges that work well, But Pin Gauges would be Better. Buying these Tools, You could spend quite a Bit of money. My advice would be to Order a “Sizing Pack“ of Bullets from either No Excuses Bullets, Or Bullshop, Then simply load each Bullet til you find the one that Feels the Best Going down (That will be the Size you need ) You want a Bullet to fit Snug enough that it WON’T back off the Powder Charge, But also not SO Tight that you need a Hammer to load it. Always keep in mind a Fouled Bore is Tougher to Load than a Clean Bore

Contact both of these and Ask about a “Sizing Pack”

Bullshop Bullet, these guy’s are by EMAIL ONLY
https://bullshop.weebly.com/bullets.html
No Excuses Bullets
https://www.muzzleloading-bullets.com/product/50-caliber-sizing-pack/

 

[ThePackman]

Measuring Bore diameter can be Tricky, i have Small Hole Gauges that work well, But Pin Gauges would be Better. Buying these Tools, You could spend quite a Bit of money. My advice would be to Order a “Sizing Pack“ of Bullets from either No Excuses Bullets, Or Bullshop, Then simply load each Bullet til you find the one that Feels the Best Going down (That will be the Size you need ) You want a Bullet to fit Snug enough that it WON’T back off the Powder Charge, But also not SO Tight that you need a Hammer to load it. Always keep in mind a Fouled Bore is Tougher to Load than a Clean Bore

Contact both of these and Ask about a “Sizing Pack”

Bullshop Bullet, these guy’s are by EMAIL ONLY
https://bullshop.weebly.com/bullets.html
No Excuses Bullets
https://www.muzzleloading-bullets.com/product/50-caliber-sizing-pack/

I got the no excuses kit, I loaded them in as per No Excuses instructions. 5.04 was very difficult to load. 5.03 was manageable, 5.02 was pretty easy. However it feels like my barrel gets wider as I go down. The first 3rd is snug as I go down it feels looser and looser. In the lower 3rd the weight of the ram rod is enough to push the bullet. All the bullets provided by no excuses were tight enough that the rifling made grooves in all of them. Based on this info do you think 5.02 or 5.03 are both suitable? I am very concerned about my face hahaha. During this test my gun was perfectly clean, ease of loading is not my main priority, safety is.

 

[Idaholewis]

I got the no excuses kit, I loaded them in as per No Excuses instructions. 5.04 was very difficult to load. 5.03 was manageable, 5.02 was pretty easy. However it feels like my barrel gets wider as I go down. The first 3rd is snug as I go down it feels looser and looser. In the lower 3rd the weight of the ram rod is enough to push the bullet. All the bullets provided by no excuses were tight enough that the rifling made grooves in all of them. Based on this info do you think 5.02 or 5.03 are both suitable? I am very concerned about my face hahaha. During this test my gun was perfectly clean, ease of loading is not my main priority, safety is.

This is PRECISELY Why i came up with the idea of using 1-40 Alloy, So the Bullets would Hold the Bore ALL the way Down good n Snug. What is happening is the Soft Left is “Stripping out” as you push it Down through the Rifling, and By the time you get to the Powder they can be Loose, Sometimes REALLY Loose. 1-40 Alloy SOLVES this Problem, And you will stil get Decent Expansion at Typical Muzzleloader Velocities using Real Blackpowder or it’s Substitutes

Since you plan to Cast, Simply Harden your Lead SLIGHTLY, Or you could simply Buy 1-40 Alloy. A little goes a LONG Way. For Hunting I would not go any Harder than 1-40 Alloy

 

[Idaholewis]

I got the no excuses kit, I loaded them in as per No Excuses instructions. 5.04 was very difficult to load. 5.03 was manageable, 5.02 was pretty easy. However it feels like my barrel gets wider as I go down. The first 3rd is snug as I go down it feels looser and looser. In the lower 3rd the weight of the ram rod is enough to push the bullet. All the bullets provided by no excuses were tight enough that the rifling made grooves in all of them. Based on this info do you think 5.02 or 5.03 are both suitable? I am very concerned about my face hahaha. During this test my gun was perfectly clean, ease of loading is not my main priority, safety is.

In short, What you are experiencing does Not happen in all Barrels, But MANY of them do this. My Stainless Green Mountain LRH Barrels Hold a Bullet REALLY tight, Where a few of my Blued Green Mountain LRH Barrels DON’T, They were all Bought Brand New, and look like Mirrors inside

If you follow the advise i give here about using a Slightly hardened Lead (1-40 Alloy) I would definitely go with .502, Like i said above a Little 1-40 Alloy goes a LONG way, They will Hold the Bore Good n Tight all the way Down

 

[ThePackman]

This is PRECISELY Why i came up with the idea of using 1-40 Alloy, So the Bullets would Hold the Bore ALL the way Down good n Snug. What is happening is the Soft Left is “Stripping out” as you push it Down through the Rifling, and By the time you get to the Powder they can be Loose, Sometimes REALLY Loose. 1-40 Alloy SOLVES this Problem, And you will stil get Decent Expansion at Typical Muzzleloader Velocities using Real Blackpowder or it’s Substitutes

Since you plan to Cast, Simply Harden your Lead SLIGHTLY, Or you could simply Buy 1-40 Alloy. A little goes a LONG Way. For Hunting I would not go any Harder than 1-40 Alloy

I will definitely buy a 1-40 alloy ingot. Do you have a recommended store for 1:40 lead alloy?

So if 5.004 was hard to load (needed a short stick) and 5.003 was manageable but 5.002 was easy but still snug what size do you think best fist my rifle? Also I order one more sizing kit I plan on doing the test one more time, unfortunately I do not have a device to measure force when loading the bullets. I am really split between 003 and 002. I have a feeling 003 will be too hard to load after one shot. Also all of the rounds seemed to fit snug at first like I had mentioned. I also looked into getting an adjustable sizer but it seems they are also out of stock with 50 cal hahaha. However I do have the lee 5.01 sizer which I think is a little small for my barrel unfortunately.

 

[Idaholewis]

I will definitely buy a 1-40 alloy ingot. Do you have a recommended store for 1:40 lead alloy?

So if 5.004 was hard to load (needed a short stick) and 5.003 was manageable but 5.002 was easy but still snug what size do you think best fist my rifle? Also I order one more sizing kit I plan on doing the test one more time, unfortunately I do not have a device to measure force when loading the bullets. I am really split between 003 and 002. I have a feeling 003 will be too hard to load after one shot. Also all of the rounds seemed to fit snug at first like I had mentioned. I also looked into getting an adjustable sizer but it seems they are also out of stock with 50 cal hahaha. However I do have the lee 5.01 sizer which I think is a little small for my barrel unfortunately.

Thanks,
Simon

Buffalo Arms is where i get my 1-40 Alloy, I live close by them and simply pick it up.
https://www.buffaloarms.com/40-1-al...llet-casting-alloy-priced-per-pound-40-1alloy
If you order the Mold .502 from Tom at Accurate Molds using his PLUS Tolerance, The Bullet will end up Dropping at .503, possibly .504, If you follow my Casting Techniques here, it will almost Gauranteed be .504, Then get yourself a .501 Sizer Die and SLOWLY open it until you get Desired Bullet Fit, Or you could Buy a Hankins Smooth Side Adjustable Sizer and be able to Size whatever you want? They are REALLY nice!!

 

[ThePackman]

Buffalo Arms is where i get my 1-40 Alloy, I live close by them and simply pick it up.
https://www.buffaloarms.com/40-1-al...llet-casting-alloy-priced-per-pound-40-1alloy
If you order the Mold .502 from Tom at Accurate Molds using his PLUS Tolerance, The Bullet will end up Dropping at .503, possibly .504, If you follow my Casting Techniques here, it will almost Gauranteed be .504, Then get yourself a .501 Sizer Die and SLOWLY open it until you get Desired Bullet Fit, Or you could Buy a Hankins Smooth Side Adjustable Sizer and be able to Size whatever you want? They are REALLY nice!!

Thanks for the tips! I will try opening up my .501 sizer first. That sizer looks great. I have a feeling I will eventually buy one hahaha.

 

[Idaholewis]

I will definitely buy a 1-40 alloy ingot. Do you have a recommended store for 1:40 lead alloy?

So if 5.004 was hard to load (needed a short stick) and 5.003 was manageable but 5.002 was easy but still snug what size do you think best fist my rifle? Also I order one more sizing kit I plan on doing the test one more time, unfortunately I do not have a device to measure force when loading the bullets. I am really split between 003 and 002. I have a feeling 003 will be too hard to load after one shot. Also all of the rounds seemed to fit snug at first like I had mentioned. I also looked into getting an adjustable sizer but it seems they are also out of stock with 50 cal hahaha. However I do have the lee 5.01 sizer which I think is a little small for my barrel unfortunately.

Remember, When you order a Mold from Accurate, and use his PLUS + Tolerance, You are GUARANTEED to get the Number you ask for, But it could possibly be .002 Larger since Tom has a .002 Tolerance Window.

Casting Tecnique plays a BIG Factor in What Diameter you end up with. For example, Lets say you are getting .502, You could hand me that Mold and I would probably get .503-.504, as i get OPTIMUM Fillout Due to the way i Cast

 

[Idaholewis]

You want to Cast PURE Lead & 1-40 Alloy HOT, 790-810 Degrees, This is EXTREMELY important! If you don’t own a Lead Thermometer? I HIGHLY advise that you get one, Shoot for 800 Degrees If you buy an Iron/Steel Accurate Mold, Dip the Bottom of the Mold Blocks in the Molten Lead/Alloy, Use a Kitchen Timer and let it Soak for 8 Full Minutes, You wanna Get your Mold REALLY HOT! Then Start Casting, The First Bullet Should take a Minute or So to Solifdify, When you know it has FULLY Solidified, Dump it in the Sprue Pile. Now With the Sprue Open, QUICKLY Fill the Mold again, When it solidifies Dump it, Pour again. Do this for 4-5 Cycles, Then Swing the Plate Closed and Start Casting for Keeps, If you did it correctly, Your Mold will be in “The Zone” and Casting PERFECT Bullets, They will be “Mirrors of the Mold“

 

[ThePackman]

You want to Cast PURE Lead & 1-40 Alloy HOT, 790-810 Degrees, This is EXTREMELY important! If you don’t own a Lead Thermometer? I HIGHLY advise that you get one, Shoot for 800 Degrees If you buy an Iron/Steel Accurate Mold, Dip the Bottom of the Mold Blocks in the Molten Lead/Alloy, Use a Kitchen Timer and let it Soak for 8 Full Minutes, You wanna Get your Mold REALLY HOT! Then Start Casting, The First Bullet Should take a Minute or So to Solifdify, When you know it has FULLY Solidified, Dump it in the Sprue Pile. Now With the Sprue Open, QUICKLY Fill the Mold again, When it solidifies Dump it, Pour again. Do this for 4-5 Cycles, Then Swing the Plate Closed and Start Casting for Keeps, If you did it correctly, Your Mold will be in “The Zone” and Casting PERFECT Bullets, They will be “Mirrors of the Mold“

If I understand you correctly, if I order a .502 when I cast they will come out 0.503-0.504? Is this due to the expansion of the mold from the heat?

If the .502 bullet fit right from the sizing kit, wouldn't I then want a 0.501 mold so then when I cast the bullet comes out as .502 to 0.503? or are you saying sizing is pretty much necessary to get a good bullet? I reload .38 wad cutters and I use a sizer for it but I just follow a recipe I am no chef. Does the sizer make up for imperfections in the casting process?