Cap lock ignition failure

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Aside from tapping the powder under the nipple as Lewis suggested (I always do that with my Renegade) a small safety pin stuck to your shirt pocket can go a long ways. Stick it down the nipple and into the flash hole, give it a little wiggle, to make sure the flash hole is clear, cap and shoot. If you get a FTF doing those two things, you need to look seriously at your nipple to make sure it’s not (as mentioned above) swaged out and holding the cap up, or the flame channel may be partially clogged off. Lewis has a cleaning video, follow that. If those things were already mentioned, I apologize. I didn’t read the whole thread....
 
This thread may have been beaten to death, but what the heck, I'll chime in. I tried to use the musket caps with my Renegade and could never get positive ignition. Plus the cap would always stick in the cup of the hammer. This made a quick follow up shot more difficult. I eventually just resigned myself to using #11 caps. Since then, I have not had any issues.

On my Thunderhawk, I never had a problem with the Musket caps. That is, until CCI changed to the reenactor cap. I couldn't find the hotter caps. So I switched to #11 for that rifle as well.
 
Ok, so caps go off but no ignition of the main charge.
What did you do to get the main charge to go off after that? Keep popping caps until it lit off, or remove the nipple and trickle a bit of powder under it and then replace and fire it again?
Are you swabbing between shots?
I swab between every shot and have had the same problem. I use goex in either 2f or 3f. It can be REALLY bad on a high moisture day when fouling stays a lot softer. It was always after I had fired at least 4 or 5 shots before it started happening to me. I'd end up popping two different caps with no main charge ignition, so I'd have to pull the nipple and trickle a bit of powder in. Always went off after I did this.
What was happening was when I ran a cleaning patch down the barrel the jag and patch fit too tight and was pushing fouling down the barrel ahead of it and it would end up in the patent breach and thus block the flame channel. When I pour in a charge and tap the side of the stock the crud keeps powder from moving into the flame channel and under the nipple. Cap blasts off and sends sparks through the flame channel only to hit a wall of benign BP fouling held in place by powder with a projectile compacted on top of it. Putting some powder under the nipple gave it the umph to blast through the benign crud and light off the main charge.
Like Lewis said, popping a cap after swabbing with the barrel pointed down before you load will knock that crud out since it doesn't have anything compacted against it holding it in place. You can verify by pointing at a blade of grass, a leaf, or a dry patch laying on the ground.
If you don't want to spend two caps every time you shoot, you can also turn your jag down a bit to solve the problem.
Most factory sized jags are a bit too big when a cleaning patch is added, so when you push the combo down the bore fouling is pushed ahead of it into the patent breach. From advice on the traditional sister forum, I chucked my jag into a cordless drill and then turned it down some by holding it against a flat file. Go a little at a time and check fit on a fouled bore. Taper it a bit too, smaller diameter in the front increasing to the back. You want a fit that will allow the patch and jag to go down the bore fairly smoothly, but then the patch bunches up and pulls the fouling BACK OUT of the barrel.
I did buy a second jag that I left unaltered so I get a tight fit when actually doing a full cleaning on the bore.
 
That is very possible but not the case with me. The cap goes bang but the foil falls out and blocks the nipple
I had the same problem with caps that have the foil in them. I switched to a cap with out the foil and the problem stopped. This was on a 1858 pietta revolver. I still have a bunch of those foil lined caps. I keep forgetting to throw em in the fire.
 
Try RWS caps.Muzzleloaders.com carries them I think I’ve accidentally washed them in the washing machine and they still worked. I’ve never had a misfire with them. I used them on goex 3f black
 
Just read all three pages, only two guys mention snapping a cap at dry grass! Sometimes you might need to snap two or three. You need to make sure your getting a good flow of air passing through that barrel. When it’s right you can also hear the blast of the cap has a good snap to it. ( if that makes sense ) Now may question is, I use water to swab fouling! What is Moose Milk? What else is used besides water? Can’t stress enough to keep snapping caps till all the moisture is out of your barrel!
 
I have always had good luck with the RWS Dynamite Noble # 11 cap as compared to any thing made is the USA. I have a number of empty cap tins that hold spare nipples or precut greased ball patches or spare flints don't throw them away.
 
Just read all three pages, only two guys mention snapping a cap at dry grass! Sometimes you might need to snap two or three. You need to make sure your getting a good flow of air passing through that barrel. When it’s right you can also hear the blast of the cap has a good snap to it. ( if that makes sense ) Now may question is, I use water to swab fouling! What is Moose Milk? What else is used besides water? Can’t stress enough to keep snapping caps till all the moisture is out of your barrel!
I sure don't mean this by opposition to what anyone's doing, but since I started using spray carb cleaner and then a shot of air through the nipple port, and store my muzzleloaders upside down, I quit snapping a cap Before I shoot. I do store the barrel lightly oiled, and before loading a clean barrel, I run a dry patch down while the gun is horizontal. before I load. In the 25 or so times I have tried this, I've never had a misfire. I do clean the nipple separately when I clean the rifle and I blast through the nipple port with the nipple out. I also have a small piece of bicycle drive cable that just fits nicely inside the nipple, then I ran through it after cleaning to remove any build up, as the small strand of cable is kind of kinky and brushes the walls inside the nipple. So far it's worked for me, and when I load my gun to go hunting, the barrel isn't contaminated until I shoot.
Squint
 
Squint I was referring to after swabbing out the barrel after a shot at the bench. I use carb cleaner a lot, but I’ve never tried it on a breech plug! I can see how that would clean that out real good. Might make a good flame thrower it you can snap a cap before it evaporates!!! LOL 👍
 
I sure don't mean this by opposition to what anyone's doing, but since I started using spray carb cleaner and then a shot of air through the nipple port, and store my muzzleloaders upside down, I quit snapping a cap Before I shoot. I do store the barrel lightly oiled, and before loading a clean barrel, I run a dry patch down while the gun is horizontal. before I load. In the 25 or so times I have tried this, I've never had a misfire. I do clean the nipple separately when I clean the rifle and I blast through the nipple port with the nipple out. I also have a small piece of bicycle drive cable that just fits nicely inside the nipple, then I ran through it after cleaning to remove any build up, as the small strand of cable is kind of kinky and brushes the walls inside the nipple. So far it's worked for me, and when I load my gun to go hunting, the barrel isn't contaminated until I shoot.
Squint

this is a great idea, I’ll have to try this. I was back at the range yesterday. I only had two failed ignition, same caps. I will try the RSW caps if I can find them in Canada. I had two other firearms there with ccI magnum, #11’s. No failures there. Thanks for all the great ideas and help.
 
this is a great idea, I’ll have to try this. I was back at the range yesterday. I only had two failed ignition, same caps. I will try the RSW caps if I can find them in Canada. I had two other firearms there with ccI magnum, #11’s. No failures there. Thanks for all the great ideas and help.
Last time I bought a bunch of RWS caps I got them from Peter Kraus at International Imports in Toronto. Shipping was fast but they are a bit more pricey than CCI caps. I never found a significant difference between them, just the price. As they say “ Your mileage may vary “
 
this is a great idea, I’ll have to try this. I was back at the range yesterday. I only had two failed ignition, same caps. I will try the RSW caps if I can find them in Canada. I had two other firearms there with ccI magnum, #11’s. No failures there. Thanks for all the great ideas and help.

2 failed ignitions is exactly 2 to many

Which rifle is this? Is there a Cleanout Screw on the Side of the Breech Plug?

If you followed the steps i gave earlier in this thread and stil had 2 Misfires, I suspicion There is a Metal Burr in the Flash Channel from the Manufacturing Process. I have seen this before, in fact i have Detailed pics of it on here i will try and find (Removing it with my Borescope)
 
Last time I bought a bunch of RWS caps I got them from Peter Kraus at International Imports in Toronto. Shipping was fast but they are a bit more pricey than CCI caps. I never found a significant difference between them, just the price. As they say “ Your mileage may vary “

That has been my experience as well, The RWS 1075 PLUS Caps “might“ have a TEENY TINY Edge? Those that shoot Substitute Powders such as Pyrodex and Triple 7 Would know best, as those Powders are Definitely more Finicky to ignite. But FACT is, With Swiss Real Blackpowder I can’t tell the Slightest Difference between the CCi Magnums, and RWS 1075 PLUS Caps? The Only REAL difference i see between the 2 is Price. The RWS Caps are 10-12 Dollars per 100 around here, Whereas the CCi Magnum Caps are 5 Dollars per 100

I am certainly not against the RWS 1075 PLUS Caps, They are VERY GOOD Percussion Caps, I have shot a Few Thousand of them. I just don’t feel they are any better than CCi MAGNUM 11s, At least not in my Experience. The few times i hunt with a Muzzleloader, i do use RWS 1075 PLUS Caps, and that is because they fit these Treso/Ampco Nipples a little Tighter (1075 Stands for 10-3/4)
 
When I started using RWS, CCI didn't have a CCI magnum. They were CCI #11 I wonder if there is any difference from one CCI to the next
CCI makes very dependable primers I have never had a failure in any center fire. Rifle or pistol
 
When I started using RWS, CCI didn't have a CCI magnum. They were CCI #11 I wonder if there is any difference from one CCI to the next
CCI makes very dependable primers I have never had a failure in any center fire. Rifle or pistol

I shoot a LOT of the Regular CCi #11s as well, along with their “Magnum” Version, With Real Blackpowder I have NEVER had a Problem, i get INSTANT ignition no matter what Cap i use :lewis:

The ONLY time i would feel a need for the “Hottest of Hot“ Caps (Whichever one that TRULY might be???) Would be if i was using a Substitute Powder such as Pyrodex or Triple Seven, These Substitute powders Need all the Help they can get :) I feel very fortunate to be in a Situation where i don’t need to use them

I keep several Thousand on hand at all times, as much as i Shoot i go through these a LOT quicker than one might think. If you notice, there are some Regular “Non Magnums” in here as Well, But Mostly Magnum
FNYAyey.jpg
 
Buying powder and primers in bulk is the only way to go. If stored properly they are good for a lifetime. I have shot stuff that was made in the 1930's and post ww2 and never had a problem it was all stored correctly.
I have some Goex purchased 1970's it's just fine. Used all my Dupont years ago, Wish I'd kept an empty can. Who would know!
 
2 failed ignitions is exactly 2 to many

Which rifle is this? Is there a Cleanout Screw on the Side of the Breech Plug?

If you followed the steps i gave earlier in this thread and stil had 2 Misfires, I suspicion There is a Metal Burr in the Flash Channel from the Manufacturing Process. I have seen this before, in fact i have Detailed pics of it on here i will try and find (Removing it with my Borescope)

it is an Investarms Hawken from the 80’s. I purchased it used last year. The fellow who had it said he switched to musket caps for increased reliability. He claimed no problems after that. I blasted it with carb cleaner, no failed ignition
 
it is an Investarms Hawken from the 80’s. I purchased it used last year. The fellow who had it said he switched to musket caps for increased reliability. He claimed no problems after that. I blasted it with carb cleaner, no failed ignition

Does it have a Cleanout Screw on the Side of the Breech Plug?

Something like this
0EUFxKV.jpg
 
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