Cap lock ignition failure

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Potato boy

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This is not the first time I encountered this, but it has been awhile. I get failed ignition, cap goes of, nothing else. Also the caps with a clean base are the failed ones, see photo. Nipple was removed and found to be clear. It’s like part of the cap falls into the nipple and blocks it when firing, see picks. CCI musket caps. The shiny ones are failed ignition, the black ones fired.
 

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Are the caps fully seated? If so, perhaps an imperfection in manufacturing?
Yep fully seated, I suspect defect but wanted others opinion before I complain to CCI. Maybe I’m missed something, 8 failings in one shooting session seems like a lot to me. Glad I wasn’t shooting at game, or a bear. In my limited experience, flintlocks are more reliable in dry condition
 
I had similar problems a few years ago. I switched two of my rifles from # 11 to musket cap nipples.
Everything was great for a while until I went to shoot at a deer. Caps just wouldn't fire.
Not sure what brand I had. Still got them somewhere.
I went back to the # 11 caps. No problems since.
 
Not at all uncommon, this happens a LOT, I use CCi No. 11 Caps most of the Time, But this Also happens with RWS 1075 PLUS Caps.

Sometimes after a Shot the Nipple will appear Plugged from the Fired Cap Debris (Doesn’t happen all the time, But fairly often) When i See this, I simply turn my Rifle Up so the Nipple is pointing Downward, and Run my Finger nail over it, It takes very little for this Debris to Fall out, leaving the Nipple Clear. Is there a Fix for this? Not that i have found? It’s simply the “Nature of the Beast” I deal with it as described above, i have not had a Hang, or Misfire from this Since, And We’re talking Several Years of Shooting, and as much as i Shoot that’s saying quite a Bit ;)

VYjQHml.jpg
 
I guess I’m not the only one, however in my experience the nipple is clear prior to the misfire, I even removed it, looked through it, reinstalled it, misfire. When I lift the hammer I see what you have pictured in your above post. I’m liking flintlocks more and more.
 
I guess I’m not the only one, however in my experience the nipple is clear prior to the misfire, I even removed it, looked through it, reinstalled it, misfire. When I lift the hammer I see what you have pictured in your above post. I’m liking flintlocks more and more.

After pouring your powder down the Bore, are you Tapping the Side of the Stock/Lock area REALLY GOOD to ensure the Powder Is Settling under the Nipple? If not, that is your Problem!
 
When you look at this TC Breech plug Cut-Away i did a few years Ago, You can see what you are Dealing with. When you simply DUMP the Powder Charge Down the Bore and Continue loading, WITHOUT Tapping on the Side of The Rifle, The Powder can Get hung up in The Flash Channel, therefore NOT making it through and Settling under the Nipple where it Belongs.
qoKr74il.jpg
 
After pouring your powder down the Bore, are you Tapping the Side of the Stock/Lock area REALLY GOOD to ensure the Powder Is Settling under the Nipple? If not, that is your Problem!
Yes I regularly do that. All the misfire had a shiny cap and a piece of debris sitting on the nipple, see above pics
 
When you look at this TC Breech plug Cut-Away i did a few years Ago, You can see what you are Dealing with. When you simply DUMP the Powder Charge Down the Bore and Continue loading, WITHOUT Tapping on the Side of The Rifle, The Powder can Get hung up in The Flash Channel, therefore NOT making it through and Settling under the Nipple where it Belongs.
qoKr74il.jpg
Wow that is cool, I’ve seen drawings but not a cut out, thanks.
 
Another thing that happens with certain Cap lock Guns, And Certain Powders is they tend To FOUL OUT in the Flash Channel, After the Shot, and you Swab the Bore good (if you do, or dont) Place a Cap on the Nipple, Point the muzzle Straight down at the Ground and Pop that Cap off, You will be AMAZED at how much CRUD comes trickling out from the “CONCUSSION of the Cap. This Crud is in the Flash Channel, and Restricts the Next Powder Charge from Flowing through, and Settling under the Nipple. Now Reload, Your Misfires will be a Thing of the Past!! :lewis:

The Smaller the Bore, and Faster the Twist the BIGGER this Problem is in a Sidelock
 
You should write a book Lewis, seriously. There isn’t that much information out there. I’m older but only been into BP for a year or so. For modern rifles there is a lot. Muzzleloader information based on modern sidelocks is sparse
 
Post #11 is EXTREMELY important with Certain Guns, I can get Away with 3 Shots Or so Without popping that Cap Straight through, So in a Hunting Situation i am FINE :lewis: I know for SURE that i can get off 2-3 Shots WITHOUT a Hitch. Its after those 3 Shots that the Hangfires (With Certain guns) Starts happening. When Target Shooting from a Bench it’s a MISERABLE deal to have a Hangfire and Ruin your Group. By popping that 1 Cap off Straight Through with The Muzzle pointed Down, it Breaks this Crud Free and it will Trickle out on the Ground. Now when you Reload, Dump your powder in, TAP TAP TAP on the Stock to Help the powder Flow through the Flash Channel, And Settle under the Nipple, You will now get INSTANT Ignition EVERY TIME :lewis:
 
I know It’s kind of a Shame to Have to use 2 Caps per Shot, But from a Bench, Trying to Shoot a Perfect Target, i see that 2nd Cap as CHEAP insurance for INSTANT, RELIABLE Ignition :lewis:

My Fast Twist (1:15) 9MM/35 Cal Muzzleloader is HORRIBLE for the Above, that REALLY FAST twist, and Small .35 Cal Bore is a Recipe for Disaster when it Comes to Fouling out the Breech plug/Fire Channel, it Chokes itself out in 1 Shot!! I have to remember to Pop a Cap off Straight through, Muzzle Pointed Down to Break the Crud Free from the Fire Channel after EVERY SINGLE Shot with this thing!! If i forget? This Barrel will COMPLETELY Fail to Fire, Then i have to Pull the Nipple and Sprinkle a Little Powder in, Replace Nipple and Fire it. This is an EXTREME example, This is the Worst Barrel I have ever seen for this. I had this Barrel Made, I wish i had Went at LEAST .40 Cal, .45 Cal MUCH Better yet. I just wanted something Different, and I DEFINITELY have that, A Different MISTAKE :) I will probably have this Barrel Bored out to .45 Someday
 
So Lewis, what you are saying is that the residue collected in the orifice of the nipple illustrated in Potato boy's image is the result of ANY percussion cap ignition?

#10, #11, or musket cap?

I am guessing that this is the combusted remnants of the very lightweight foil & adhesive that is used to cover & seal the priming compound that resides in the bottom of the percussion cup/cap?
 
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as Lewis said very common just have to check between shots to make sure its not blocked. All caps do it at one time or another have had it happen alot with #11 and musket caps.
 
try this too, pop a cap to clear the fire channel but point the bbl. at some grass or leaves even at clean cement at the range. you will see the grass move and some debris fall on the cement, sure to have the nipple clean, ck before you load see if the nipple is capped over, a flick of the thumb most times takes the crud off the nipple. load n fire.
 
After pouring your powder down the Bore, are you Tapping the Side of the Stock/Lock area REALLY GOOD to ensure the Powder Is Settling under the Nipple? If not, that is your Problem!

Ditto to what Lew, just said. The first time I tried to fire my Renegade I had this happen to me. Lew, told me about tapping the side of the sidelock by the hammer/nipple and it resolved my problem 100%. I've never had a misfire since. :lewis:
 
I read somewhere else that if the hammer doesn't fall square on the nipple, it won't set off the musket caps properly. Not such a huge problem with # 11 caps because of the smaller surface area.
 
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