Cast bullet for sabot?

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Actually, one can use any projectile of the right diameter in a sabot. For a .50, this means either a .45 (.452) or .44 (.429). Just out of curiosity, I lathe turned a piece of 1/2" round stock down to .452 with a 60 degree point on it ( I think it was about 300 grains) and it shot just fine out my .50. The projectile did not touch the barrel.
 
Actually, one can use any projectile of the right diameter in a sabot. For a .50, this means either a .45 (.452) or .44 (.429). Just out of curiosity, I lathe turned a piece of 1/2" round stock down to .452 with a 60 degree point on it ( I think it was about 300 grains) and it shot just fine out my .50. The projectile did not touch the barrel.
What did you shoot at? I would be interested in how much it penetrated on something like a railroad tie or an engine block.
 
Actually, one can use any projectile of the right diameter in a sabot. For a .50, this means either a .45 (.452) or .44 (.429). Just out of curiosity, I lathe turned a piece of 1/2" round stock down to .452 with a 60 degree point on it ( I think it was about 300 grains) and it shot just fine out my .50. The projectile did not touch the barrel.
Yes that is true. I cast my own bullets for one reason alone, and that's for performing extremely well on big game. I want them to mushroom, but do not want them to completely (coin) flatten out. I don't want over expansion, and want the bullet to completely pass thru creating and exit wound as well.
 
I would be interested in how much it penetrated on something like a railroad tie or an engine block.
In anticipation of a "lead free zone" hunt, I've made and tested several steel bullets and shotgun slugs (so I could make my own projectiles - like the cast lead bullets I use now).

IME steel's penetration on "soft" (not metallic) materials is very similar to hard cast, heat treated, FN lead bullets. IMHO this is due to 2 reasons:
1. Steel has only 69% the density of lead, so bullets are light for caliber and can't be made longer and heavier without losing stability.
2. Blackpowder MLs can't produce the kind of speeds necessary to take advantage of steels superior mechanical properties.

These were not "scientific" tests - just straight from the lathe to a sabot or shot cup loaded in a ML - and used on materials like softwood, newsprint, water jugs etc.

Note: be extremely cautious about shooting steel projectiles at hard metal/rock objects. Steel doesn't deform as much at ordinary smokeless velocities, and practically not at all down around BP MVs. In fact, at BP speeds, steel can ricochet or bounce back off hard targets.
 
In anticipation of a "lead free zone" hunt, I've made and tested several steel bullets and shotgun slugs (so I could make my own projectiles - like the cast lead bullets I use now).

IME steel's penetration on "soft" (not metallic) materials is very similar to hard cast, heat treated, FN lead bullets. IMHO this is due to 2 reasons:
1. Steel has only 69% the density of lead, so bullets are light for caliber and can't be made longer and heavier without losing stability.
2. Blackpowder MLs can't produce the kind of speeds necessary to take advantage of steels superior mechanical properties.

These were not "scientific" tests - just straight from the lathe to a sabot or shot cup loaded in a ML - and used on materials like softwood, newsprint, water jugs etc.

Note: be extremely cautious about shooting steel projectiles at hard metal/rock objects. Steel doesn't deform as much at ordinary smokeless velocities, and practically not at all down around BP MVs. In fact, at BP speeds, steel can ricochet or bounce back off hard targets.
I wont be shooting anything but lead, copper, and brass(maybe aluminum) in my MLs, that’s why im interested in your tests. I really would like to see pics of the wood that the steel went thru, if you have any. Ive shot steel sabot slugs in my shotgun but only thru paper and never got around to shooting at trees or game.
 
I am going to piggyback on this thread if you dont mind. I am considering getting a 45 caliber 330gn gould mould for use in a 50cal. Is this too heavy for what you are thinking?

The bullet is vey popular in cartridge rifles ad has a great reputation as a game-getter, but I am wondering if anyone has used it in sabots. MMP?

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas.
My Maxi 45 cal (240) gr in a 50 Harvester sabot which says 300 gr max /or my Accurate 40 cal ( 300 gr) in a 50 to 40 cal Harvester both shoot great from my CVA Optima (pistol/rifle) and and extremely accurate/Ed
 
If your rifle shoots a 250 gr bullet accurately there is no need for a heavier bullet for deer. And like you stated, you have a couple of daughters that like to hunt so the lighter bullet will give you less felt recoil which is a plus.
IMO whether you cast with pure lead or an alloy the sabot will protect the bullet. A pure lead bullet will expand more at muzzleloader velocities so that's what I'd use. I don't feel you need a hollow point either.
 
. All this talk about casting your own. Im jealous. Id love to do that but a guy can only has time for so many hobbies.
Go for it Ed. a great way to pass the time on a rainy day. I cast in my garage and have the garage door wide open. What better pass time than listening to the rain and casting your own bullets. The only thing better is shooting them!
 
Not to hijack but how does a sabot affect bullet stability, especially with heavier bullets?

With a normal bullet the barrel twist will determine how heavy (long) of a bullet will stabilize- does a sabot have any impact on this?
 
Not to hijack but how does a sabot affect bullet stability, especially with heavier bullets?

With a normal bullet the barrel twist will determine how heavy (long) of a bullet will stabilize- does a sabot have any impact on this?
Not being a ballistic expert I would say a sabot doesn't have any effect on stabilization. Here's my theory. The sabot only contacts the bullet/rifling interface the same as that bullet would contact the rifling of that caliber. If the twist rate is the same then there should be no difference. The base of the sabot only acts as a gas seal and the sabot drops off almost immediately after leaving the bore.
 
Ok, so I read through the whole series of posts and from what I understand(correct me if I'm wrong) I can take my .452 cast 230gr and 255gr bullets for my 1911 and 45lc revolver and run them in my KP1. I kinda like that idea since I have a bunch of both and the lead & molds to make more
 

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