Casting for BP 45-70

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Many moulds to choose from... Anyone have a particular recommendation for something in the 450-500 grain size for a 45-70 gov? Currently a greaser but plan to move to PP
 
I shoot a Gov nose 500 gr pp from a mould made by Steve Brooks. It drops right at 511gr with my 30-1 lead - tin mix for hunting with the 45/70. I also have a 565 gr mould that I use in my 45/110 that was designed by Kenny Wasserburger and made by Jim at buffalo arms. I may try it in my 45/70.
 
I shoot a Gov nose 500 gr pp from a mould made by Steve Brooks. It drops right at 511gr with my 30-1 lead - tin mix for hunting with the 45/70. I also have a 565 gr mould that I use in my 45/110 that was designed by Kenny Wasserburger and made by Jim at buffalo arms. I may try it in my 45/70.
thank you!
The Lyman 535 gr. postell is my all time favorite bullet for .45-70, 45-90 and 45-100 X
Thank you! Unfortunately mould out of stock so will need to wait a bit
 
I shoot a Gov nose 500 gr pp from a mould made by Steve Brooks. It drops right at 511gr with my 30-1 lead - tin mix for hunting with the 45/70. I also have a 565 gr mould that I use in my 45/110 that was designed by Kenny Wasserburger and made by Jim at buffalo arms. I may try it in my 45/70.
On their site there a number of bullet shapes that would be a "Gov nose" plus they give a weight range. So I am unsure which one you are referring to. Their production seems to be acceptable but they sure are expensive. Roughly twice that of the Lyman's...
 
On their site there a number of bullet shapes that would be a "Gov nose" plus they give a weight range. So I am unsure which one you are referring to. Their production seems to be acceptable but they sure are expensive. Roughly twice that of the Lyman's...
you will get what you pay for
 
On their site there a number of bullet shapes that would be a "Gov nose" plus they give a weight range. So I am unsure which one you are referring to. Their production seems to be acceptable but they sure are expensive. Roughly twice that of the Lyman's...
You can call Brooks and tell him what you have for a rifle and what your looking for and he will fix you up. Most Shiloh 45/70s are 1-18 twist unless ordered otherwise. The buffalo arms mould is JIM441560. most of their moulds are out of stock when you order them as they are made to order. I have the Lyman government mould as well as the BACO mould and the BACO mould is a way better bullet. It has larger grease grooves and casts so much nicer. I would call BACO and have them shorten the 560 mould to 500 gr .
 
You can call Brooks and tell him what you have for a rifle and what your looking for and he will fix you up. Most Shiloh 45/70s are 1-18 twist unless ordered otherwise. The buffalo arms mould is JIM441560. most of their moulds are out of stock when you order them as they are made to order. I have the Lyman government mould as well as the BACO mould and the BACO mould is a way better bullet. It has larger grease grooves and casts so much nicer. I would call BACO and have them shorten the 560 mould to 500 gr .
In my opinion, the 500 gr. govt. bullet can be fairly accurate at shorter ranges but is not a bullet you would want to compete with. Look at the shape of the nose compared with the Lyman Postell, or a "money" type bullet. The B.C. is basically how a easily bullet slices through the air. I started out competing with the govt. bullet and quickly moved on to a bullet with a more strteamlined shape. Nobody I compete with uses the 500 gr. govt. bullet. I have moulds from both Brooks and Buffalo arms and they are SUPERIOR moulds that cast near perfect bullets. Until you get some competition experience under your belt, a standard production mould from Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, etc. will suffice quite nicely and not cost an arm and a leg. X
 
Absolutely! I do not compete. I only hunt with mine. I do have a Paul Jones mould that I have shot out to 600 yds. If I were I would defiantly change bullets to a money bullet.
 
In my opinion, the 500 gr. govt. bullet can be fairly accurate at shorter ranges but is not a bullet you would want to compete with. Look at the shape of the nose compared with the Lyman Postell, or a "money" type bullet. The B.C. is basically how a easily bullet slices through the air. I started out competing with the govt. bullet and quickly moved on to a bullet with a more strteamlined shape. Nobody I compete with uses the 500 gr. govt. bullet. I have moulds from both Brooks and Buffalo arms and they are SUPERIOR moulds that cast near perfect bullets. Until you get some competition experience under your belt, a standard production mould from Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, etc. will suffice quite nicely and not cost an arm and a leg. X
If paper patching, does the bullet design need to be smooth? Or can it be grooved? And if so, does performance get degraded? Probably an inquisitive idiot question but I am just beginning to learn about life as a "Non-Greaser"...
 
If paper patching, does the bullet design need to be smooth? Or can it be grooved? And if so, does performance get degraded? Probably an inquisitive idiot question but I am just beginning to learn about life as a "Non-Greaser"...
You can PP greasers. I think Idaho ron can answer more questions about patching grease groove bullets.
Don't forget, when the paper patch is shed off of a patched grease groove bullet, you still have all the ballistics of the greaser.
Also, PP bullets are usually seated in the case about an eighth of an inch [give or take.] The extra space in the case is made up by adding more powder, which means your 45-70 just became 45-90 [ish]
How will you tolerate the recoil? If you are thinking of competing, the typical 40 shot BPC silhouette match usually involves shooting about 60 shots total including sighters. B.P. Target rifle about the same.
Most of the shooters who compete [but not all] shoot from the prone position which enhances felt recoil.
You can develope bad habits really quickly when you get "punchy" from the cumulative effects of recoil.
The gentleman here known as "45-70" is going to patch exclusively this season and can provide you with more info on the plusses and minuses of patching. Hopefully he will keep us updated on his progress. X
 
you can but , I had problem with Paper sticking in the grooves sometimes , but like X-ring said your ballistics turn into GG soon as paper leaves. Sometimes it seems a matter of preference of the shooter. Myself I think it shoots better at a distance. I shot Long Range Muzzle Loading for years in some 1000 yd. matches so I was kind of used to shooting. Bigger the bullet diameter to bore better it shoots. I use .443 bullet diameter bullet wrapped to .450 using Seth Cole 55w Paper and some use 55y which is thinner than 55w
 
you can but , I had problem with Paper sticking in the grooves sometimes , but like X-ring said your ballistics turn into GG soon as paper leaves. Sometimes it seems a matter of preference of the shooter. Myself I think it shoots better at a distance. I shot Long Range Muzzle Loading for years in some 1000 yd. matches so I was kind of used to shooting. Bigger the bullet diameter to bore better it shoots. I use .443 bullet diameter bullet wrapped to .450 using Seth Cole 55w Paper and some use 55y which is thinner than 55w
Great advice from you both. Thank you! & The Shiloh book on PP is awesome.
After reading the Shiloh book trying to now figure out the best way to do the grease wad/plug. Is it worth greasing the grooves with something more firm and then PP or is that a stupid idea...
 
Great advice from you both. Thank you! & The Shiloh book on PP is awesome.
After reading the Shiloh book trying to now figure out the best way to do the grease wad/plug. Is it worth greasing the grooves with something more firm and then PP or is that a stupid idea...
that won't work , paper soaks up the grease
 
Most target shooters do not use a grease cookie. I say most because I have read of a couple that did. I use them in my hunting loads so I can use follow up shots without wiping. To make the grease cookies I rip 2x4 strips the thickness that I want my cookies. (3/8 - 3/16) depending on the rifle. I attach them to a piece of plywood that I have covered with wax paper so the cookies will release about a foot apart. Then pour your lube mix of choice between them and screed it flat. When it hardens I use a case to punch out the cookies.
 

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