Casting question Maxi ball & Rb

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I will try the bump test with both bullets. I will be using this for hunting and periodic target shooting for practice. I wil also like to know where you get your 40/1 alloy. Just got a TC peep because my eyes getting tired. I want to see whether it helps me. Im new to this so bear with me. Any suggestions with zeroing the peep would be helpful too. Thanks again for the replies.
 
I will try the bump test with both bullets. I will be using this for hunting and periodic target shooting for practice. I wil also like to know where you get your 40/1 alloy. Just got a TC peep because my eyes getting tired. I want to see whether it helps me. Im new to this so bear with me. Any suggestions with zeroing the peep would be helpful too. Thanks again for the replies.

I get my 40-1 Alloy from Buffalo Arms
https://www.buffaloarms.com/40-1-al...llet-casting-alloy-priced-per-pound-40-1alloy

That TC Peep Sight should do well for ya :lewis: I can’t really be of any Help Zeroing it? You just have get out there and Shoot it, Adjust it as needed to get your Zero.

If your shots are Hitting to the Right? You move the Peep to the Left. If they are Hitting to the Left? Move the Peep to the Right. If you are Hitting High? Move the peep Down. And if Hitting low, Move the Peep Up.
 
If you are using a Lee Bottom pour 20 Pound Pot, a Good dial setting is 5-6, I have 3 of these Pots and that is where i run all of them. Doesn’t mean yours will be the Same as mine? But i feel it’s a Good Starting Point.

It is DARN nice to Know what Temp your Melt is? I rarely use mine anymore as I know where the Dials need to be on my Pots, But i do Stil use it from time to time to Check, and For Different Alloys, ESPECIALLY Lyman #2 for My Rifle Bullets. Here is the Best deal i know of for a GOOD Quality Lead/Alloy Thermometer. This is Made by RCBS for Rotometals
https://www.rotometals.com/lead-bullet-casting-thermometer-6/
While casting round balls, how long do you wait to dump them after the sprue solidifies?
 
I will try the bump test with both bullets. I will be using this for hunting and periodic target shooting for practice. I wil also like to know where you get your 40/1 alloy. Just got a TC peep because my eyes getting tired. I want to see whether it helps me. Im new to this so bear with me. Any suggestions with zeroing the peep would be helpful too. Thanks again for the replies.
Peep sight zeroing:
BEFORE removing original rear sight, install the new rear peep. Rest the rifle in a gun vice or some type of cradle that will hold it firmly without moving. Adjust the cradled rifle so the original rear sights are aiming at a distant target, say 50 yards, but less is Ok. Now, look through the peep sight and adjust it until you are looking through the same sight picture as the original rear and front sights. The peep should now be close and you're ready to make final adjustments by actual shooting. Easy schmeasy!
I use this initial method by setting up a table inside my garage, opening up the back door, and sighting toward the back fence (always making sure everything is unloaded, of course). This gives me almost 30 yards to work with, and by keeping any firearms inside the garage, the neighbors don't freak out!
 
It’s your mold, Make sure it’s REALLY CLEAN, and Get it HOTTER! You want to Slightly Overheat your Mold. Keep the Mold Closed and Dip the Bottom of it in the Molten lead, If it’s an Aluminum Mold it will Heat MUCH Faster than Steel, For an Aluminum Mold count 2, 2-1/2 Full Minutes with it in the Molten Lead. When you Pour the First Bullet you want the Sprue Puddle to “Dance” for 30 seconds, even a minute. When the Sprue finally Solidifies Count 30-45 Seconds and dump/Cull that Bullet, you don’t want to Open the Mold to Quick, if the Bullet has not Solidified it will get all over your Mold Halves and make a Mess

Keep Casting, and Culling about 4-5 Bullets, this Allows the Mold to “Settle” Down and enter the “Zone”, Now Start Keeping, if you Followed the Directions above, your Bullets should be PERFECT like this, SHARP edges, and Base :lewis:
R6YfCx9.jpg

WzGXfhNm.jpg
Lewis, Can I use mineral spirits to clean my molds? Just asking because I already have some. And how about that mold spray release agent, do you use it?
 
James , soap and water should be fine . Mineral spirts is petroleum based. Are you using a thermometer ? Around 750 plus is a good temp up to 800 or so. Mike.
 
James , soap and water should be fine . Mineral spirts is petroleum based. Are you using a thermometer ? Around 750 plus is a good temp up to 800 or so. Mike.
Yes, I'm using a thermometer. And I will use soap and water with a tooth brush.
 
Lewis, Can I use mineral spirits to clean my molds? Just asking because I already have some. And how about that mold spray release agent, do you use it?

Like Msalyards, I wouldn’t advise Mineral Spirits.

I use Brake Cleaner for the most part. I catch it on Sale at our Local NAPA and Grab Several Cans. Do this Outside, upwind, With the Mold attached to Handles, I spray the Mold down Liberally, Then hit it with My Air Compressor to Dry.

I also use 91% isopropyl Alcohol.

And Sometimes I Simply Wash them with Soap & Water, using a Dedicated Toothbrush, Then Hit with Air Compressor to Dry
 
When I get my rifle, and start casting round balls again after so many years away from shooting, I will be thanking the folks that make threads like this possible.

Using full size moulds is night and day different from what I started doing as a kid, and continued up until I quit in the late 80's.

That first mould was an iron scissors DGW bag mold with a square iron head. So, when I got stellar results with it in 0.445"; I naturally purchased similar molds in .50 and .62 caliber when I got those rifles.

And, I got good results with those two molds as well. I didn't know they weren't supposed to be that good!

I'm thinking of purchasing an RCBS Easy Melt, 25 pound, ladle-style, casting furnace. The one with the P.I.D. controller. That, and a Rowell #2, bottom pour, lead ladle from RotoMetals should set me up.
 
I also use brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, or electrical contact cleaner (to get the oil based contaminated off my homemade molds) followed by soapy water and a toothbrush followed with a good water rinse and a compressed air dry. I have smoked some of my molds, some not. Haven’t seen a real difference there. Many on both sides of that fence....
 
It doesn't hurt to go over 800 degrees but your bullets will start to frost over if it gets too hot. Most every pot is different on heat adjustment , I usually run mine on the upper end of the 700's. I let the thermometer and the bullet pick the sweet spot.
 
If you are using a Lee Bottom pour 20 Pound Pot, a Good dial setting is 5-6, I have 3 of these Pots and that is where i run all of them. Doesn’t mean yours will be the Same as mine? But i feel it’s a Good Starting Point.

It is DARN nice to Know what Temp your Melt is? I rarely use mine anymore as I know where the Dials need to be on my Pots, But i do Stil use it from time to time to Check, and For Different Alloys, ESPECIALLY Lyman #2 for My Rifle Bullets. Here is the Best deal i know of for a GOOD Quality Lead/Alloy Thermometer. This is Made by RCBS for Rotometals
Lead Bullet Casting Thermometer 6"

I too had this problem especially, if I had to stop and do something different or add more lead or answer the telephone, or what ever and my darn mold would cool off. I kinda helped my problem by buying a cheap electric hot plate, and when I start my lead pot up I set my mold on top of the hotplate, and check it every so often with a heat gun. Then when I'm ready to go I leave the hotplate on and if I have to stop casting I set the mold back on the hotplate and try to keep it at a fairly good temperature. I'm not a great bullet caster, make some good bullets, weigh them all, only keeping what I feel is good, put the rejects back on top of the lead and the next time they go in again. I've never tried overheating the mold to start with, but now I am going to.
Squint
 
I too had this problem especially, if I had to stop and do something different or add more lead or answer the telephone, or what ever and my darn mold would cool off. I kinda helped my problem by buying a cheap electric hot plate, and when I start my lead pot up I set my mold on top of the hotplate, and check it every so often with a heat gun. Then when I'm ready to go I leave the hotplate on and if I have to stop casting I set the mold back on the hotplate and try to keep it at a fairly good temperature. I'm not a great bullet caster, make some good bullets, weigh them all, only keeping what I feel is good, put the rejects back on top of the lead and the next time they go in again. I've never tried overheating the mold to start with, but now I am going to.
Squint
I just started doing that. Seems to help. After reloading the pot it only took about 5 bullets to get good fillout again.
 
Lewis your bullets look so good i sometimes think you might have machined them or something. I have learnt a ton about casting from you. :thumb:
Ever machined lead? His bullets look a heck of a lot better than that! I tried to machine some round balls (2” diameter) for crunching up the ingredients for homemade black powder. The first attempt was an absolute disaster. The second two turned out pretty good. Lead is so “sticky” when trying to turn it. I get what you’re saying though. Those do look like machined bullets.
 
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