Casting Roundball, Removing Sprues

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Idaholewis

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Here is a Tip on removing Roundball Sprues

When i started this Game I really didn’t plan on Buying Molds, I figured i would just Buy the Store Bought Swaged Balls, I ended up with 2 Brand new Boxes of .495 Speer, and Hornady Swaged Balls, I ended up melting them Down so I could Re pour Higher Quality Balls, Their Quality control just isn’t up to my Standards, Both brands of Swaged Balls Varied as much as 2 and 3 Grains of eachother, That is Unacceptable to me. I knew i could EASILY Pour these Balls IDENTICAL, So I purchased Molds for .45, .50, and .54 Cal So i could make Perfect Roundball.

They Casted nice, But i was Concerned about the LARGE NASTY looking Sprue, That WASN'T Gonna work with me!! Those had to go somehow?
iADYJw9.jpg


These are my .495s from a 2 Cavity Lyman Mold, They ALL weigh 184 Grains when Cast of Pure Lead, I weigh all of them, they Smaller (Anything under 250 Grains) must be within 1/2 Grain in order for me to Keep them, Once i get these Smaller Molds up and Running good they Will cast IDENTICAL, These Roundball molds were no Exception
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Sprues are GONE :lewis: I tumbled them in my Vibratory Case Tumbler for 45 Minutes or So with a Bit of Powdered Graphite, Works like a CHAMP! You CAN’T purchase Roundballs of this Quality, Casting them yourself is the ONLY way to go if you want PERFECTION :lewis:
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Did you check for “roundness” after tumbling?
 
Here is a VERY Different approach, I thought was kinda neat, But not something I’m interested in. Would Be EASY to make a Contraption like this, But SLOW compared to Laying them all out in a Vibratory/Tumbler, Coming back in 30-45 Minutes and the WHOLE batch is perfectly Done, Shiny Black Graphite and All :lewis:

I don’t personally like this Texture he is after here? If it were more “Golf Ball” Dimples i would be more inclined to try it. Golf balls are designed with that texture for a Reason, They Fly Farther than a Perfectly Smooth Ball



WfSZ6AE.jpg


JXCulLI.jpg
 
Here is a VERY Different approach, I thought was kinda neat, But not something I’m interested in. Would Be EASY to make a Contraption like this, But SLOW compared to Laying them all out in a Vibratory/Tumbler, Coming back in 30-45 Minutes and the WHOLE batch is perfectly Done, Shiny Black Graphite and All :lewis:

I don’t personally like this Texture he is after here? If it were more “Golf Ball” Dimples i would be more inclined to try it. Golf balls are designed with that texture for a Reason, They Fly Farther than a Perfectly Smooth Ball



WfSZ6AE.jpg


JXCulLI.jpg

A solution to a non-existent problem.
 
A solution to a non-existent problem.

Are you referring to the Sprue? If so, I can’t prove that it makes a Difference as I haven’t tested it yet? But Just Looking at the Flat Sprue, it sure seems plausible that it could negatively Affect Accuracy? I will test from my Bench Rest and see if i can tell a Difference or not?

I have read where MANY Guy’s Claim “Sprue Up” That tells me they believe it matters? If not, Why not Sprue Sideways, Etc? I like the Idea of NO SPRUE, hence why i got rid of them on my Cast Balls Above
 
Used to use a contraption I got out of the Black Powder Magazine, was made out of steel bottom was round and about 2" deep the top plate was also steel, with a knob handle set into the edge, kind of reminded me of the old cheater 's on steering wheels , stacked the balls in sprue up and dusted them with a little mica powder. Put the top on and crank away, pure manual labor, took about 45 min's then they where smooth, never weight them, just straight out of the mould to the drop tank, to the drying table to the machine, haven't seen one since
 
Used to use a contraption I got out of the Black Powder Magazine, was made out of steel bottom was round and about 2" deep the top plate was also steel, with a knob handle set into the edge, kind of reminded me of the old cheater 's on steering wheels , stacked the balls in sprue up and dusted them with a little mica powder. Put the top on and crank away, pure manual labor, took about 45 min's then they where smooth, never weight them, just straight out of the mould to the drop tank, to the drying table to the machine, haven't seen one since

I have seen pictures of something similar to what you speak of, The Cast lead Balls Between 2 Steel Plates
 
Lew, your tumbler method is the simplest and easiest way to go. Plus it gives you more time to do other things.

FULLY Agree!! Put them in the Tumbler for 30-45 Minutes and DONE! Doesn’t get any easier than that :lewis:

These other methods are intriguing, But I’m not interested in even trying them, Just Conversation :)
 
Lew, thanks for sharing your tried-and-true method. Sprue removal was the one concern I had about molding my own round balls for a sidelock I've held off from shooting. Now I'm going to ask Santa for a mold this year. I even have the same Cabela's-branded vibratory tumbler you listed. You've solved my problem before I even encountered it!
 
Lewis
Got a question on this older thread. When you vibrate them do you use media or just the balls by thenselves?
DL
 
The ball roller thing is made by one of our competitors in the N-SSA. There are a number of schools of thought on these as his device is aimed at smoothbore ammunition with NO patch. It works for some. I've tried it and so far, not for me. What I did stumble on in my smoothbore is loading as cast, sprue on, with nothing but musket lube on the ball. Darn good load in my my 1842 Macon.
 
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