Casting Tip: Mold Temperature for PURE Lead

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http://cowboybullets.com/Mould-Handle_p_56.html
Do they say what molds those regular handles fit? Lee or Lyman? If they fit a Lyman 1 cavity mold im going to buy one

Why are you asking the new guy??

And why is your new profile pic a photo of your buddy choking on a bag of cheesy Poof's!?!?

Here's what I can tell you: they have 4 options aluminum or steel; 2 cavity handle or Lee 6 cavity handle. That being said, I've read that Lee handles will fit Lyman 2 cavity molds without modification. I got a steel mold from Accurate Molds - a 1 cavity .54 cal that fits perfectly.

I don't have any Lyman molds, though... So, yeah, I'm kinda useless here. 😒
 
http://cowboybullets.com/Mould-Handle_p_56.html


Why are you asking the new guy??

And why is your new profile pic a photo of your buddy choking on a bag of cheesy Poof's!?!?

Here's what I can tell you: they have 4 options aluminum or steel; 2 cavity handle or Lee 6 cavity handle. That being said, I've read that Lee handles will fit Lyman 2 cavity molds without modification. I got a steel mold from Accurate Molds - a 1 cavity .54 cal that fits perfectly.

I don't have any Lyman molds, though... So, yeah, I'm kinda useless here. 😒
I used to think we were friends...
 
Alright, Kids. ST Machining Mold handles are here!!!

View attachment 9948

IdahoLewis and I have developed a plan for another IdahoLewis Test as outlined above. I have graciously lent my expertise to this exercise. And, to be clear, by "graciously lent my expertise to this exercise," I mean to say that I bought the damn things and put them in a box - Lewis will do all the work.

I'm thinking another YouTube Video and casting thread party!!! I'll buy the sodas and Pie!!!!!

They Look Good JC :lewis: I have NO DOUBT they will work good
 
I use to cast my bullets when the temp got between 700-725 or so. I would insert one end of the mold for a couple of minutes to heat the mold off and then scrape the lead off the mold. Since I started following Lew’s advice of 775-800 degrees and keeping my Accurate Molds in the lead for 7-8 minutes the Bullets are more consistent in weight within .5 grains.
Thanks Lew for your advice! :lewis:
 
Why do i Slightly Overheat my Molds? So i can Start Casting PERFECT Bullets in a Just a Few Minutes, With ONLY 5-6 Culled Bullets. If you start Casting with a COLD MOLD, and Keep Casting to Get the Temperature up, it takes FOREVER and Then Some, You will have to Cast a PILE of CULL Bullets Before the Mold Comes up to Temp. And even then it will NEVER reach the Temp I explain above, And that is PRECISELY How i am getting OPTIMUM Fillout. By using the Procedure i Explain above, you are cutting ALL OF THIS Wasted Time Out.
Hi Lewis,
What is the best bottom pour pot in your opinion. Need something bigger than the 10lb. Lee dipper pot.
Thanks ML48
 
Hi Lewis,
What is the best bottom pour pot in your opinion. Need something bigger than the 10lb. Lee dipper pot.
Thanks ML48

G. Morning ML48, Are you talking just a Melting Pot for Ladle Casting? I personally use the Lee 4-20 Bottom Pour (20 Pound Pot)

If Ladle Casting, Lee Makes a “Magnum Melter” Which is a 20 Pound Pot WITHOUT the Bottom Pour feature. Lee makes These Pots in 110, and 230 Volts
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Preciesion-90949-Furnace/dp/B00162RW52
 
G. Morning ML48, Are you talking just a Melting Pot for Ladle Casting? I personally use the Lee 4-20 Bottom Pour (20 Pound Pot)

If Ladle Casting, Lee Makes a “Magnum Melter” Which is a 20 Pound Pot WITHOUT the Bottom Pour feature. Lee makes These Pots in 110, and 230 Volts
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Preciesion-90949-Furnace/dp/B00162RW52
Yup, FG & me are looking at the bottom pour. They are a bit pricey, but they seem to be more productive. At present we have a large caldron for melting lead in to ingots. Thanks for the info. I don't get on this site often.
Have a great hunting season.
Your friend/brother,
ML48
 
Well I started casting this fall use ww had a zinc and steel they float to the top scoop them off add a little beeswax skim off the crud stir the pot real good stuff will float up skim it off then I have a cupcake pan pour all my pure lead in it to make ingots I have a Lee bottom pour instant pot put ingots in it let it melt a few stuff will still float to the top skim it off and I've had great success with this poured about 1500 bullets no problem a few bad ones but not many just throw them back in the pot thanks everybody great forum here
 
This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps :lewis:



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Do you cast any wfn-gc projectiles for the .475 linebaugh? I’m looking for a 410gr wfn to shoot through my BFR. Thanks
 
No right now I'm casting 45 caliber black powder conicals 36 caliber round balls and hopefully some 50 caliber conicals and 36 caliber conicals and that'll probably be it for me
 
Well fellas YouTube decided to Remove my Casting Video? I got home this evening from Cutting firewood and This was in my Email, There are several different Bullet Casting Videos on YouTube, I can’t imagine anything in my Video that would have Violated their Firearms Policy? Oh well
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