Casting Tip: Mold Temperature for PURE Lead

[4stringdude]

Thanks for posting this tutorial! I just bought my first steel mold. I've been using aluminum molds til now. I would have wasted a lot of time.

 

[wmdbowman]

Most will find an iron or steel mold much better than an aluminum mold. Holds the heat better once it's up to temp. The alumn. heats fast but there is no fast when casting good bullets. The Alumn. also cools fast which is not good. Alumn. also expands and contract more than a ferris metal mold. Good bullet dimensions can be hard to hold with Alumn. Just keep your Steel or iron from rusting and degrease with brake cleaner before using.

 

[wmdbowman]

I'm kind of like that guy on the Farmers Insurance advertisement, done or seen a thing or two , good and bad!. Dude, I to am starting to feel my age. I'm 72 yrs. young. When I started shooting Black Powder that was all we had until Pyrodex came along. My bet is we may even see something better than Black Horn before all the shootings over.

 

[wmdbowman]

I just had a thought. One of my oldest friends was in the small group of buck skinners that started the shoot in Friendship Indiana. His name W. Chapman. Haven't seen him in years, I hope he's still alive. They would go down there camp, party, drink, eat, and shoot in no given order. I would shoot down there later on.

 

[MSalyards]

Steel molds are what the majority of the better mold cutters build. They hold there heat better and more evenly and are less likely to be damaged by heat. I prefer single cavity molds as I'm not fighting temps between bullets. I go for quality not quantity.

 

[wmdbowman]

Mold Block size is another factor that is in the equation of heat retention. I always get better guality out of a single cavity. I'm not in production and trying to mass produce or sell bullets. For accuracy bullet consistent wht. is number one for me. Bullet design, material and performance come next. depending on what I'm going to do with the bullet

 

[Idaholewis]

Steel molds are what the majority of the better mold cutters build. They hold there heat better and more evenly and are less likely to be damaged by heat. I prefer single cavity molds as I'm not fighting temps between bullets. I go for quality not quantity.

This is me to the T I have a Few 2 Cavity Molds But I don’t personally like them, I usually Pick the 1st Cavity and Cast just that 1 Cavity. I have a Few NOE Molds for my Centerfire, 1 of them is a 5 Cavity, Talk about a WASTE to me, As i only Use the Front Cavity. When i bought this mold i had to go with a used one, NOE didn’t have them in Stock, I found a Guy with a 5 Cavity like new that he would Sell, That’s the ONLY reason i have this Mold, i would MUCH MUCH Prefer it to be a Single Cavity

 

[Idaholewis]

What does stirring the paper towel do ?

Just the way i Flux It Helps Clean the Lead, Since i started doing this (Fairly recently) I quit Seeing Odd Spots in My Bullets (Like Little Blisters). I push the Paper Towel Down and Stir it Good around the Bottom of the Pot, and Along the Sides. I do this QUICKLY, When i lift the Spoon and The Folded Paper Towel (Costco Brand ) Pops up on Top, It is hasn’t Charred, it’s Brown, But NOT Charred (Leaving Gunk behind) Like a Wooden Stick will Char. It’s odd how the Folded Paper Towel Works, But it Does For me

 

[jlynch75]

This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps

This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps

 

[jlynch75]

Thank you for some great tips. I started making my own bullets years ago and you gave me some great ideas. Just got a Lee pot like in video, using the same molds, I've got better gloves and lets see how much better I can do with your way.
Thanks again.

 

[Idaholewis]

Hey Lew, along with explaining the paper towel bit, I'd like you to expound upon your hatred of aluminum moulds. I'm getting conflicting views.

I've corresponded with Tom, at Accurate Molds, and he's pretty unequivocal that his favorite material for his own casting is aluminum. But you hate aluminum, and prefer iron/steel.

I hate it when mom and dad fight!!!

I just got most of what I need to start casting. Getting an Accurate Molds 54-510M with no taper, but haven't decided on material. Which would be easier for a new caster? I'm going to start by ladle pouring as it's easier for a new caster to maintain consistency, as opposed to bottom-pour pots. Is that correct? Should I start with a single cavity mold? WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?!?!?
View attachment 9641

I am being HARSH on Aluminum Molds Due to them NOT Being DURABLE Like a Steel Mold. Even Running a Loose Sprue Plate an Aluminum Mold will Gall EASY if you don’t Lube the Sprue Plate Well, They Get Scratched/Scarred across The Top and Look like CR@P. Steel Molds on the Other Hand are EXTREMELY Durable, They are VERY Forgiving to the Caster, Aluminum is NOT

Here is one of my Older Aluminum Molds, This Mold Hasn’t been used all that Much, But it looks like it’s been through a WAR

Here is one of Steel Molds, This Mold has Cast a TON of Bullets, FAR FAR More than the Aluminum Mold Above, This Steel Mold stil looks Brand New, Just like it Did when i Bought it. ALL of my Steel Molds look like this, No matter how much use, They just get Better & Better the More i use them, An Aluminum Mold gets CRAPPIER & CRAPPIER The More it’s used

 

[Idaholewis]

My advice with Aluminum molds is to use a Sprue Bat/Mallet To Cut the Sprue, DON’T Use your Gloved Hand like i do in my Video above. You might not realize it, but you tend to put more Downward Pressure on the Sprue Plate when opening with a Gloved Hand, Which helps lead to Galling/Scratching the Top of the Aluminum Mold Blocks. With Steel Molds this is NOT a Problem, They are Very DURABLE/TOUGH

 

[Idaholewis]

One of the ways i get PERFECT, SHARP Base Fillout is by Running my Molds BONE DRY, (IMPORTANT that you Adjust Sprue Plate as i Explain in Video above) I Rarely use ANY Form of Lube (Only on Aluminum Molds, Because i have no Choice, They will Gall at the Pivot) When/if you feel the Need to use a Sprue Plate Lube, use a Synthetic 2 Cycle Engine Oil

Note how SHARP, And Perfectly Filled Across this Bullet Base is here. This is a Steel Mold running BONE DRY, No Lube!

If you use Sprue Plate Lube, at least EVERYTIME i have tried it (Which has been Many times) Each and every time I Have tried a Lube on the Sprue Plate i get a Slight Rolled edge around the Entire Bullet Base (Red arrow), ANY form, and i mean the Tiniest Amount of Lube on a Mold/Sprue Plate Can/will Effect your Cast. The Bullet Base is what actually Steers the Bullet, you want PERFECT, SHARP Bullet Bases

 

[10ring1]

This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps

Awesome video. Thanks from this rookie just getting started. Your instruction will definitely come in handy

 

[Idaholewis]

Awesome video. Thanks from this rookie just getting started. Your instruction will definitely come in handy

Be Diligent at it, You will get it Down! It’s a LOT like Riding a Bicycle, All of a Sudden you Take off If you have Any Questions just Ask, Good Luck! Let me know how it goes?

 

[mrhunterken]

This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps

That's a great informative post Idaho,

This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps

Great post Idaho, I also have several Accurate Moulds, except I prefer brass.

This is a MAJOR part of Casting HIGH Quality PURE Lead Bullets, in Fact it’s The most important Part i can Think of? Temperature of the PURE Lead is Very important as Well, These 2 Go Hand n Hand. I get my BEST Results with PURE Lead at 775-800 Degrees

With a Clean, Oil Free Mold. You have to Get the Mold HOT, and i mean REALLY HOT! (Remember, Aluminum molds heat up REALLY fast, Steel Molds take CONSIDERABLY longer to Heat up, Over Twice as long as Aluminum)

How i do this is quite Simple, I hold the Bottom of my Mold in the Molten Lead. My Goal is to Slightly Over Heat the Mold, When i make my 1st Cast the Sprue Puddle Can Take up to 1 minute to Solidify (Depending on Bullet Cavity Size), As quick as i see the Puddle FULLY Solidify (if it’s a Large Bullet, you will notice a Hole “sinking in” the Center of the Lead) Count a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute here BEFORE Opening the Mold to Dump the Bullet out. If the Bullet has not Solidified it will make a Hell of MESS in your Mold, You end up losing what you Gained by having to Clean the Stuck Lead from the Mold Halves (If this Happens, use a Clean WOOD STICK like a Popsicle, or Paint Stick to Scrape the Lead out, Anything else Can/will Scratch Your Mold) Trust me when i Say To make Sure the Bullet has Fully Solidified before opening the Mold! Get yourself a Kitchen Timer, They are Cheap, and an invaluable little tool to the Serious Caster.

Using the Method i describe above (Dipping the Bottom of the Mold in the Molten Lead) Here are times i use, I am gonna list times i use for IRON/STEEL Molds, as i rarely Cast with Aluminum Molds (I DESPISE Aluminum Bullet Molds) I don’t Guess these times, I use a Kitchen Timer and get them Exact.

My Iron/Steel Lyman Molds Take about 4 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat

my Iron/Steel Accurate Molds take About 7-8 Minutes to Slightly Over Heat, CONSIDERABLY Longer Than my Lyman Molds, as they are MUCH Bigger and Heavier than a Lyman Mold.

Now that you have Slightly Over Heated your Mold, Swing the Sprue Plate WIDE OPEN and Fill the Cavity (As stated above, DO NOT Try and Dump this 1st Bullet out to Fast, give it a FULL 45 Seconds to 1 Minute AFTER You See the Sprue Puddle Finally Solidify) As quick as you are able to Safely Dump this 1st Bullet out, IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again, This time it will Take Considerably Less time to Solidify, When you are Sure it has Solidified, Dump this Bullet as well, and IMMEDIATELY Fill the Cavity again. Do this for about 5-6 Cycles/Bullets, Now Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start Casting For Keeps

Great post Idaho, my preferred moulds however are made of brass. They are slightly heavier than steel,but seems to hold heat better.

 

[Idaholewis]

I know Guy’s that Cast REALLY NICE Bullets with Aluminum Molds (As good as you can Possibly Cast a Bullet) Some Swear by Aluminum, It’s all in what you get use to, Personal Preference thing. I prefer the TOUGH/RUGGEDNESS of Iron/Steel Molds.

The Downside (if you see it that way?) to Iron Molds is their Weight, Some casters have a Tough time holding them up for Longer periods of time (especially multi Cavity Iron Molds, they get HEAVY!) Iron Molds Require more time to Get up to Temp. And they need to be Lubed/Oiled Good or they Can/Will Eventually Rust

All of the Mold Materials used are Capable of SUPERB Bullets, You simply need to Spend time with, and Learn the Mold’s Requirements

 

[eekjellander]

Be Diligent at it, You will get it Down! It’s a LOT like Riding a Bicycle, All of a Sudden you Take off If you have Any Questions just Ask, Good Luck! Let me know how it goes?

Going out to cast after this excellent video ,only thing I have over you is my jiggle (shake) is built in it starts before yours and is sort of built in!/Ed

 

[jlynch75]

Just casted these a few minutes ago, they are all within a grain +/- 1.
Thanks Idaholewis.

 

[Idaholewis]

View attachment 9695
Just casted these a few minutes ago, they are all within a grain +/- 1.
Thanks Idaholewis.

AWESOME STUFF @jlynch75