Now that you have your smokeless muzzle loader have you though how you might much gun you have purchased? We discussed how some improvements could be made in the chapter on practical loads. We will now explore what can be done to the rifle itself.
Let me start by saying a smokeless muzzle loader need not be more than the ?standard issue? variety. I see shooters expressing they see no need to have anything more than what they have and I can certainly understand that. These items and possibilities are what I?d call options for the ?Hot Rod? rifle and I no more expect them to be everybody?s choice than I think the average guy would buy a Dodge Viper.
There are some shooter?s who?d like a little more. Maybe only one or two of the choices might appeal to them. Perhaps you are the ?overkill is just right? type of shooter and think this is just a start. At any rate here are some smokeless muzzle loader modifications.
The rifle available to hot rodded is the 10ML. If you were going to start with an after market rifle you?d have what you want done during construction not afterward so this will be about the Savage. And by far the most wanted modification for the 10ML is the third pillar. This modification eliminates the need for a special breech plug tools as well as providing action bedding at the same time.
I did not start the third pillar (I guess the Balls did that) but I have for some time touted it as a basic, cheap, modification that almost anyone would consider an up-grade to the factory 10ML. Besides the other advantages the third pillar is very inconspicuous and looks as it belongs or maybe as if the rifle belongs with a third pillar.
The basic idea of a third pillar is simple. The problem is the holes in the receiver and stock must center within a tight tolerance or the work will look and function raggedly
Besides the third pillar the next most common request would be some type of trigger work. The new accu-trigger rifles have an exceptional factory trigger. Still they seldom adjust to less than three pounds of pull. Ways of dealing with this include an after market trigger which the shooter could install himself for between $60 and $120 or have the trigger adjusted. Proper work could get the accu-trigger to between two and two and a half pounds of pull for $35 to $40.
I will tell any shooter straight up and point blank! Because of the exceptional safety provisions the accu-trigger I would never replace one with an after market trigger unless directly instructed so. I don?t rate the accu-trigger as a target grade trigger but the 10ML is not a target rifle either.
If you want to dig a little deeper into what makes a rifle work a good place to start with is the recoil lug. Many shooting problems can be traced to a recoil lug issues. Often bedding can help recoil lug to stock contact but not in every case. That is why you will find most target style rifles with a precision recoil lug.
If someone was to ask me I would certainly state an after market recoil lug (like the SSS) would make a lot of sense if accuracy was the prime goal. A consideration of the cost must be made however. The lug itself is not much but the barrel must be removed to install it. It takes time to remove a barrel and re-install it correctly. If for some chance the barrel was off already off I think the addition of a machined flat lug is mandatory.
If you have the barrel off the rifle adding a machined flat recoil lug is a must. You can color the lug (left) or leave it in the white.
The next consideration is a barrel. Since a quality barrel is likely to cost as much as the rifle itself (all things considered) most people will be trying to get the most out of their factory supplied model. A few things can be said about that approach that may help.
Factory 10ML barrels can come in many shooting conditions. In fact I?ve seen a few that would not be what I?d call shooting condition. But because your barrel is rough or only shoots on the verge of what you call accurate does not mean there is nothing that can be done.
If you listen around the message board long enough sooner or later you?ll hear someone say they have polished their barrel. The 10ML is one of the few rifles out there where polishing (as opposed to lapping) can often be a good idea. The key is to know when polishing is needed. More likely a shooter will resort to polishing when something else is wrong. If you don?t know all the parts to your rifle are functioning it is likely really bad accuracy is something other than the barrel needing polished.
Rifles that need polished usually give a feeling of a zipper when the sabot is loaded. Some are less noticeable than others but most have an odd feel. A rifle might have a rough edge on the muzzle. Many of these types of barrel problems can be polished away. Actually what I mean by polishing is more related to barrel break-in than custom work but you have to keep in mind the bullet is plastic. A plastic bullet has much less frictional wear than copper so it takes many more shots to do any barrel smoothing. That alone makes polishing useful because most barrels shoot better with some wear-in.
One word of caution: Barrel polishing may not help accuracy if it is being reduced by another factor besides the barrel.
There are still steps we can take to add to the rifle. A good recoil pad may be as important an addition as the average shooter can make. If the shooter is uncomfortable pulling the trigger the best rifle will seldom over come the problem. Choosing a recoil pad that really works is often the difference between everything working and just the rifle working. Most the brand names work but I feel Limb Saver is the top of the food chain.
While considering a stock one may as well decide on a custom model. I have mounted 10MLs on a laminate with Weatherby style cheek piece at times. This stock also does away with the silly ramrod spring found on the factory stock. It maxes out at the same weight as the factory woodn but some skeleton details will lower it some.
As it stands now I?m informed that there is hope of a laminate stock for the 10ML that will weigh 22 to 24 ounces. That along with some judicious frame and barrel contours should bring a rifle home in the 7 to 7 ? pound weight range.
Finally in our quest for a hot rod gun we need to consider a replacement barrel. You wouldn?t talk about hot cars without considering an engine and you can?t mention a great rifle without talk of the barrel. Since we spoke of the factory barrel first here we speak of aftermarket sky is the limit tubes.
I?ve made it known already that if I were to change barrels I?d change calibers also. In a BP or sub shooting rifle one might have some arguments for the energy, bullet, and range of a 50 caliber rifle. Shooting smokeless powder that?s all for naught. Smokeless has such an advantage over BP and subs the power and range is not determined (greatly at least) by the bore but determined by the load. Since all smokeless shooting in the last 140 years has been a move toward lighter weight bullets at speed I see no reason to change the goal in a muzzle loader.
In a 45 caliber barrel the 200 grain bullet can be shot accurately between 2600 and 2750fps with ease. That?s about a 200 to 250fps speed faster than the average ?hot? load from the 50 caliber barrel and it gets there with the same or less recoil. Now does everyone see why I prefer the ?small block? in my hot rod gun?
A rifle with a precision high grade barrel (like the Pac-Nor match) machine flat recoil lug, fine trigger, cushioned recoil pad, third pillar, and bedded custom stock may seem like a lot but it is not all that can be done (or has been done) to a rifle. On some rifles when a lot of work is expected I?ll start by taking he entire rifle apart. Including the trigger, safety, and pressed housings. Then before assembly I?ll true the receiver for roundness and face flatness in a lathe. I?ll form flat any of the pressed housing parts that may be rounded and remove any burrs from all the parts.
While I?m reassembling the rifle I want to make sure the barrel nut is flat surfaced and any rubbing parts are adjusted for clearance. I take extra care in the safety and trigger guard area as the shooter will feel immediate feed back from rubbing parts in this area. Finally I try to make sure the finish and fit are true, straight, and unscratched. If I do all my work correctly it?s a pretty good rifle.
This rifle belongs to me and I plan to keep it despite many offers to take it. As you can see it has some obvious differences to a factory model. The barrel is a Pac-Nor 26" 1 in 22 twist 45 caliber bore. The stock is a John Okubu thumb-hole with a generous amount of hand work to lighten the weight. Most all the options listed have been used including, 2 pound, no creep, no over travel, trigger, flat recoil lug, third pillar, and Limb Saver recoil pad. Total weight is 8 pounds and a few ounces.
This rifle includes things not even mentioned in the chapter including all trued components (meaning I blue-printed every part), special breech plug that does not require a vent liner, and my own special bolt release and bolt modification that allows me to release the bolt without loosening any of the three receiver screws.
I seldom fire sabots from this rifle as I've found it will shoot a 10 shot group with the Parker Hydracon 300 grain bullet into .88 inch. But if I did speeds well past 2750fps are available.
Let me start by saying a smokeless muzzle loader need not be more than the ?standard issue? variety. I see shooters expressing they see no need to have anything more than what they have and I can certainly understand that. These items and possibilities are what I?d call options for the ?Hot Rod? rifle and I no more expect them to be everybody?s choice than I think the average guy would buy a Dodge Viper.
There are some shooter?s who?d like a little more. Maybe only one or two of the choices might appeal to them. Perhaps you are the ?overkill is just right? type of shooter and think this is just a start. At any rate here are some smokeless muzzle loader modifications.
The rifle available to hot rodded is the 10ML. If you were going to start with an after market rifle you?d have what you want done during construction not afterward so this will be about the Savage. And by far the most wanted modification for the 10ML is the third pillar. This modification eliminates the need for a special breech plug tools as well as providing action bedding at the same time.
I did not start the third pillar (I guess the Balls did that) but I have for some time touted it as a basic, cheap, modification that almost anyone would consider an up-grade to the factory 10ML. Besides the other advantages the third pillar is very inconspicuous and looks as it belongs or maybe as if the rifle belongs with a third pillar.
The basic idea of a third pillar is simple. The problem is the holes in the receiver and stock must center within a tight tolerance or the work will look and function raggedly
Besides the third pillar the next most common request would be some type of trigger work. The new accu-trigger rifles have an exceptional factory trigger. Still they seldom adjust to less than three pounds of pull. Ways of dealing with this include an after market trigger which the shooter could install himself for between $60 and $120 or have the trigger adjusted. Proper work could get the accu-trigger to between two and two and a half pounds of pull for $35 to $40.
I will tell any shooter straight up and point blank! Because of the exceptional safety provisions the accu-trigger I would never replace one with an after market trigger unless directly instructed so. I don?t rate the accu-trigger as a target grade trigger but the 10ML is not a target rifle either.
If you want to dig a little deeper into what makes a rifle work a good place to start with is the recoil lug. Many shooting problems can be traced to a recoil lug issues. Often bedding can help recoil lug to stock contact but not in every case. That is why you will find most target style rifles with a precision recoil lug.
If someone was to ask me I would certainly state an after market recoil lug (like the SSS) would make a lot of sense if accuracy was the prime goal. A consideration of the cost must be made however. The lug itself is not much but the barrel must be removed to install it. It takes time to remove a barrel and re-install it correctly. If for some chance the barrel was off already off I think the addition of a machined flat lug is mandatory.
If you have the barrel off the rifle adding a machined flat recoil lug is a must. You can color the lug (left) or leave it in the white.
The next consideration is a barrel. Since a quality barrel is likely to cost as much as the rifle itself (all things considered) most people will be trying to get the most out of their factory supplied model. A few things can be said about that approach that may help.
Factory 10ML barrels can come in many shooting conditions. In fact I?ve seen a few that would not be what I?d call shooting condition. But because your barrel is rough or only shoots on the verge of what you call accurate does not mean there is nothing that can be done.
If you listen around the message board long enough sooner or later you?ll hear someone say they have polished their barrel. The 10ML is one of the few rifles out there where polishing (as opposed to lapping) can often be a good idea. The key is to know when polishing is needed. More likely a shooter will resort to polishing when something else is wrong. If you don?t know all the parts to your rifle are functioning it is likely really bad accuracy is something other than the barrel needing polished.
Rifles that need polished usually give a feeling of a zipper when the sabot is loaded. Some are less noticeable than others but most have an odd feel. A rifle might have a rough edge on the muzzle. Many of these types of barrel problems can be polished away. Actually what I mean by polishing is more related to barrel break-in than custom work but you have to keep in mind the bullet is plastic. A plastic bullet has much less frictional wear than copper so it takes many more shots to do any barrel smoothing. That alone makes polishing useful because most barrels shoot better with some wear-in.
One word of caution: Barrel polishing may not help accuracy if it is being reduced by another factor besides the barrel.
There are still steps we can take to add to the rifle. A good recoil pad may be as important an addition as the average shooter can make. If the shooter is uncomfortable pulling the trigger the best rifle will seldom over come the problem. Choosing a recoil pad that really works is often the difference between everything working and just the rifle working. Most the brand names work but I feel Limb Saver is the top of the food chain.
While considering a stock one may as well decide on a custom model. I have mounted 10MLs on a laminate with Weatherby style cheek piece at times. This stock also does away with the silly ramrod spring found on the factory stock. It maxes out at the same weight as the factory woodn but some skeleton details will lower it some.
As it stands now I?m informed that there is hope of a laminate stock for the 10ML that will weigh 22 to 24 ounces. That along with some judicious frame and barrel contours should bring a rifle home in the 7 to 7 ? pound weight range.
Finally in our quest for a hot rod gun we need to consider a replacement barrel. You wouldn?t talk about hot cars without considering an engine and you can?t mention a great rifle without talk of the barrel. Since we spoke of the factory barrel first here we speak of aftermarket sky is the limit tubes.
I?ve made it known already that if I were to change barrels I?d change calibers also. In a BP or sub shooting rifle one might have some arguments for the energy, bullet, and range of a 50 caliber rifle. Shooting smokeless powder that?s all for naught. Smokeless has such an advantage over BP and subs the power and range is not determined (greatly at least) by the bore but determined by the load. Since all smokeless shooting in the last 140 years has been a move toward lighter weight bullets at speed I see no reason to change the goal in a muzzle loader.
In a 45 caliber barrel the 200 grain bullet can be shot accurately between 2600 and 2750fps with ease. That?s about a 200 to 250fps speed faster than the average ?hot? load from the 50 caliber barrel and it gets there with the same or less recoil. Now does everyone see why I prefer the ?small block? in my hot rod gun?
A rifle with a precision high grade barrel (like the Pac-Nor match) machine flat recoil lug, fine trigger, cushioned recoil pad, third pillar, and bedded custom stock may seem like a lot but it is not all that can be done (or has been done) to a rifle. On some rifles when a lot of work is expected I?ll start by taking he entire rifle apart. Including the trigger, safety, and pressed housings. Then before assembly I?ll true the receiver for roundness and face flatness in a lathe. I?ll form flat any of the pressed housing parts that may be rounded and remove any burrs from all the parts.
While I?m reassembling the rifle I want to make sure the barrel nut is flat surfaced and any rubbing parts are adjusted for clearance. I take extra care in the safety and trigger guard area as the shooter will feel immediate feed back from rubbing parts in this area. Finally I try to make sure the finish and fit are true, straight, and unscratched. If I do all my work correctly it?s a pretty good rifle.
This rifle belongs to me and I plan to keep it despite many offers to take it. As you can see it has some obvious differences to a factory model. The barrel is a Pac-Nor 26" 1 in 22 twist 45 caliber bore. The stock is a John Okubu thumb-hole with a generous amount of hand work to lighten the weight. Most all the options listed have been used including, 2 pound, no creep, no over travel, trigger, flat recoil lug, third pillar, and Limb Saver recoil pad. Total weight is 8 pounds and a few ounces.
This rifle includes things not even mentioned in the chapter including all trued components (meaning I blue-printed every part), special breech plug that does not require a vent liner, and my own special bolt release and bolt modification that allows me to release the bolt without loosening any of the three receiver screws.
I seldom fire sabots from this rifle as I've found it will shoot a 10 shot group with the Parker Hydracon 300 grain bullet into .88 inch. But if I did speeds well past 2750fps are available.
