Cleaning a Sidelock

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Thank you sir this is very informative.

What do you recommend for drying in and around the nipple hole/flash channel if I don't have a steam cleaner?

Will the TC multi tool work for a traditions hawken or is it specific to tc percussion rifles?
 
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Thank you sir this is very informative.

What do you recommend for drying in and around the nipple hole/flash channel if I don't have a steam cleaner?

Will the TC multi tool work for a traditions hawken or is it specific to tc percussion rifles?

I take the nipple out whenever I clean, and I generally spray the area with an aerosol called Brakleen. It is fast drying. I understand the fumes can be bad for you, but I have used it for years for other things too and have never had any trouble. All of my muzzleloaders are of the Hawken design so the barrels all come off readily. I do replace the nipple with a small amount of anti-seize compound. I do generally run something through the nipple to be certain it's not obstructed and I generally use just a simple paperclip.
Squint
 
I took the liberty of copying IdahoLewis videos from YouTube on how he cleans his sidelocks and pasted them here. The last video is how he prepares his sidelocks for hunting so you don't have a misfire on your first shot. Once I followed the last video, my Renegade always goes off on the first shot! :lewis:
We all are in great debt to Lew for taking the time and creating these videos for us. Like the ole saying goes "A picture/video is worth a thousand words"

To see the other videos Lew has created go to Youtube and do a search for idaholewis.







 
Lotsa good ways to clean a muzzleloader. As Lewis pointed out, the snake flue on a cap gun can be an issue, but not for me as I only have and use nothing but flinters. Here's my cleaning regimen that's been flawless for too many decades.

When the shooting is done for the day, a few oiled Ballistol (or WD40) wet patches Immediately go down the tube and the rod left in the bbl, an oiled wet patch wipes down the entire lock. The idea is to get on the BP residue ASAP before it wants to harden and/or do nasty things. When back at the ranch, the real cleaning can begin.

Cleaning a side lock is too easy. First, remove the rod 'n' patch that was left down the bbl and then remove the lock ... yes, unscrew it and pull it off. Remove the flint and its leather. Put the entire lock in a bowl or pail of tepid tap water. Plug the touch hole with a round toothpick and pour tepid tap water down the bbl for about 3/4's to full (doesn't much matter, but there's no need to fill it as it's the chamber and about a foot above that where most of the caked BP residue accumulates).

Allow the gun to stand muzzle up for the water to do it's thing while you return to the lock. Use an old tooth brush to scrub the lock. When it's reasonably clean (maybe a minute tops of scrubbing), shake off the excess, pat off as much water with paper toweling, spritz the entire lock with Ballistol (or WD40) then leave it rest on a paper towel. As a note about spraying Ballistol, I buy small plastic pump bottles and fill with Ballistol as this is cheaper and just as good as buying Ballistol spray cans.

Back to the gun, pull out the toothpick and water will pizz out the touch hole. Use patches wet with plain water (or moose milk - 1:6 of Ballistol:water - or any water soluble oil instead of Ballistol) to clean out the bbl. You will Never ever get cleaning patches to come out perfectly clean because some of the elements of black powder (notably the graphite used) remains in the bbl metal and leaches out onto patches. When wet patches come stained but otherwise clean, run down a few dry patches, and then one good sloppy wet patch with any kinda gun oil. I leave the rod and oily patch in the bbl for storing the gun.

Back to the lock, wipe off any oil residue (there will be some left, which is good), wipe down the entire gun - bbl and stock, screw back the lock onto the gun, reinsert the flint and yer done. If it seems complicated or time consuming, it really isn't. At a leisurely pace it takes me about 15-20 minutes and if I rush maybe 10 minutes. Sure better than cleaning a centerfire bbl of lead or copper wash. ;)

The above is for classic flat face breech plugs. For patent breech plugs, a brush (.22 to .30 caliber) draped with a patch is required to get into that plug's ante-chamber.

I prefer using Ballistol because it's good for the wood, totally non-toxic - all other CLPs are not, and that includes WD40.
 
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If you dont have a compressor there are other things like rubbing alcohol that will greatly speed up displacing/evaporating water. Even WD40 if you are in a pinch for something. WD is pretty poor for protection but for water diplacement it does work ok.
 
Always, each and every time I got shooting, when I come home I clean my rifles immediately. When I bring them in the house the first thing I do is go to the kitchen and put a 2 qt pot of water on the stove and heat it up. As its heating I strip the rifle down removing the barrel and lock and taking out the nipple or vent liner. I fill a 2.5 gallon bucket with hot tap water and Dawn dishwashing detergent. I put the nipple or vent liner in the bucket and the breech end of the rifle barrel. I wet a brush and swab the bore a few times then wet a patch and do same. I draw the patch up the bore slowly so it can suck water up the barrel then force it down quickly flushing the breech and flame channel.
By this time the water on the stove is almost boiling. I take the barrel outside and hang it on a nail by one of the ramrod bolsters and with the help of a funnel, pour the hot water from the pot down the barrel. this gets rid of any soap residue and any residual bullet lube. I then bring the barrel back in (CAUTION: barrel is hot). I run a couple dry patches down the bore and then a patch dampened with alcohol to remove any moisture and also remove the flash rust from the hot water. I then use a couple patches of Montana Extreme Cowboy blend to be sure I got all the fouling out. After this I run a dry patch and then 2 patches of Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner.
I fish out the nipple or vent liner and dry with paper towel and compressed air, clean out the flash hole, apply antisieze and reinstall. Wipe down the barrel exterior with oil and set aside. I clean the tang area with a lightly oiled cloth and clean the lock with Montana Extreme Cowboy Blend (With a flinter I only wipe the pan and frizzen with alcohol patch). the backside of the lock gets brushed with a toothbrush and a small drop of oil in the workings wiping off any excess. Put everything back together and put her away.
 
If you dont have a compressor there are other things like rubbing alcohol that will greatly speed up displacing/evaporating water. Even WD40 if you are in a pinch for something. WD is pretty poor for protection but for water diplacement it does work ok.
The WD stands for water displacement
 
I clean my Whitelightings just about the same way, I do use Break Free CLP rather than Rem Oil. Good video.
 

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