CVA Scout V2 Bore Question

[4gun-drill]

I hope it is ok for me to post this question here. If it would be more appropriate somewhere else please let me know.

I am very interested in doing a CVA Scout smokeless conversion. I have wanted to try smokeless for a long time and this seems like an economical way to get my feet wet. My question is more a general question about CVA / Bergara barrels. Back around the first of the year I purchased a CVA Scout in 44 mag. It was on sale and I enjoy shooting and loading 44 mag, plus I hunt in a straight wall only state and for me 44 is a good choice.

When the 44 arrived I noticed some “irregularities” in the bore. I initially thought it was just a lubricant that was dry, and wasn’t too concerned. The problem is, I can’t get rid of it. The lands are perfect, but 2 of the grooves are a little rough. I also thought it could be lead from lapping at the manufacturer, though I’m not sure the do any lapping. I’ve tried all the lead removal tricks I know and sometimes I do get a couple shiny flecks that look like it could be lead, but in general the grooves aren’t cleaning up any. My guess is what I am seeing are imperfections left from the button.

It shoots ok, descent groups at 100 with factory loads. Still working up better loads. It doesn’t foul excessively, but the irregularities in the grooves are instantly highlighted by fouling after it has been shot. Seems to clean up OK though.

So now here is my question... I’ve heard great things about the Scout and Bergara Barrels. However the condition of the bore on my 44 isn’t anything to brag about. Before I invest $1k+ in a smokeless Scout I would like to know if anyone here has seen similar bores or if it had any impact on the accuracy of their rifle?

Thanks for any input.

 

[jims]

I have a Scout V2 iin 45-70. The bore is quite good and it shoots well. Most seem to think their barrels are fine but one can always get a bad one anywhere.

 

[redear]

Iv'e never read about anyone getting a bad barrel in a scout 45-70 conversion, but have read about a couple having problems getting the 44 mag model scout to shoot like it should. I did buy a scout conversion from jeff hankins but haven't shot it yet.

 

[ported45]

My Scout V2 is a tack driver with Arrowhead 209 bushing plug, Winchester primers, 58 grains H4198, and 200 SST in the HSB sabots. Smooth, even loading all the way down and bore looks good.

33 grains Vit 110 and the 200 SST was also a tack driver, but a bit slower velocity so it would not recoil much for my daughter. I am going to be moving that load to my Encore conversion for her since it is a lighter gun.

Before next season I am going to switch over to 195 Barnes in the Scout, so my load recipe may change some as well.

 

[rgell1017]

My Scout V2 is a tack driver with Arrowhead 209 bushing plug, Winchester primers, 58 grains H4198, and 200 SST in the HSB sabots. Smooth, even loading all the way down and bore looks good.

33 grains Vit 110 and the 200 SST was also a tack driver, but a bit slower velocity so it would not recoil much for my daughter. I am going to be moving that load to my Encore conversion for her since it is a lighter gun.

Before next season I am going to switch over to 195 Barnes in the Scout, so my load recipe may change some as well.

 

[rgell1017]

I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 45-70 barrel for my Encore or purchase one of the CVA offering cost from what I've found is close to the same for either barrel or CVA depending on which one I would appreciate opinions and suggestions as to pros and cons and who would be good to do conversion thanks and all opinions appreciated

 

[ENCORE50A]

I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 45-70 barrel for my Encore or purchase one of the CVA offering cost from what I've found is close to the same for either barrel or CVA depending on which one I would appreciate opinions and suggestions as to pros and cons and who would be good to do conversion thanks and all opinions appreciated

Ever consider this? https://www.arrowheadrifles.com/product/encore-barrels/

 

[ported45]

I'm trying to decide whether to purchase a 45-70 barrel for my Encore or purchase one of the CVA offering cost from what I've found is close to the same for either barrel or CVA depending on which one I would appreciate opinions and suggestions as to pros and cons and who would be good to do conversion thanks and all opinions appreciated

The Encore has driven tacks since day one of the conversion. 58 grains H4198, Winchester 209 primers, and the 195 Barnes in the HSB sabot.

Honestly I don't see enough of a difference in accuracy between the two (both overlap bullet holes at 100 yards) to be able to sway me one way or the other on a future project. The biggest difference is that the Encore is a lighter setup. But I also like the complete, dedicated setup of the CVA.

 

[rgell1017]

The Encore has driven tacks since day one of the conversion. 58 grains H4198, Winchester 209 primers, and the 195 Barnes in the HSB sabot.

Honestly I don't see enough of a difference in accuracy between the two (both overlap bullet holes at 100 yards) to be able to sway me one way or the other on a future project. The biggest difference is that the Encore is a lighter setup. But I also like the complete, dedicated setup of the CVA.

 

[rgell1017]

I'm leaning towards CVA because I hate changing out barrels and this way for close to same money have two fully functional guns and prices I've found for CVA starts at 230 up depending on which one you choose

 

[GM54-120]

Richard has been posting about a Scout conversion he got to test on Hanks board. He is struggling getting his to shoot vs his Brux bolt gun. The Scout barrels run a tad large like many CVA 45s. He said his is .4513. Brux are pretty much spot on .450 lands. I would wager the MGM 5R barrels for Contender/Encore are a bit tighter also.

The 5R barrels are listed on ASGs website as "Preferred" barrels. They are a fair amount cheaper than a Brux but might not be the best choice for sabots with that 5R rifling.

 

[D55]

In regard to your 44 barrel I would contact CVA they might just replace the barrel. As far as the scout I don't have that model but do have the Apex and as GM54-120 commented on Richards post my bore dimension is just about the same. I lapped a tight spot out of mine and since it has shot very good with a number of bullets. Copper solids shoot well with a veggie wad and 300 xtp without a wad 300 Fury with a wool wad. They are not a B

I hope it is ok for me to post this question here. If it would be more appropriate somewhere else please let me know.

I am very interested in doing a CVA Scout smokeless conversion. I have wanted to try smokeless for a long time and this seems like an economical way to get my feet wet. My question is more a general question about CVA / Bergara barrels. Back around the first of the year I purchased a CVA Scout in 44 mag. It was on sale and I enjoy shooting and loading 44 mag, plus I hunt in a straight wall only state and for me 44 is a good choice.

When the 44 arrived I noticed some “irregularities” in the bore. I initially thought it was just a lubricant that was dry, and wasn’t too concerned. The problem is, I can’t get rid of it. The lands are perfect, but 2 of the grooves are a little rough. I also thought it could be lead from lapping at the manufacturer, though I’m not sure the do any lapping. I’ve tried all the lead removal tricks I know and sometimes I do get a couple shiny flecks that look like it could be lead, but in general the grooves aren’t cleaning up any. My guess is what I am seeing are imperfections left from the button.

It shoots ok, descent groups at 100 with factory loads. Still working up better loads. It doesn’t foul excessively, but the irregularities in the grooves are instantly highlighted by fouling after it has been shot. Seems to clean up OK though.

So now here is my question... I’ve heard great things about the Scout and Bergara Barrels. However the condition of the bore on my 44 isn’t anything to brag about. Before I invest $1k+ in a smokeless Scout I would like to know if anyone here has seen similar bores or if it had any impact on the accuracy of their rifle?

Thanks for any input.

rux but can be a moa shooter with a bit of load development

 

[redear]

I got a scout from Jeff Hankins and have only shot it 12 times so far. after sighting the scope in I went to 110 yds the next day and did two 1" groups of three with the barnes tez 250 wool wad and 56 gr of H4198, and the other group was fury star tip 2's in 275 with the same wd and pwder charge. I have the HIS ignition system. 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 lb trigger on my lyman digital scale. My bore is good all the way down by feel, and it will take the barnes tez's right out of the package. I'm very satisfied with the gun. I don't plan on using sabots at all though.

 

[rgell1017]

I got a scout from Jeff Hankins and have only shot it 12 times so far. after sighting the scope in I went to 110 yds the next day and did two 1" groups of three with the barnes tez 250 wool wad and 56 gr of H4198, and the other group was fury star tip 2's in 275 with the same wd and pwder charge. I have the HIS ignition system. 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 lb trigger on my lyman digital scale. My bore is good all the way down by feel, and it will take the barnes tez's right out of the package. I'm very satisfied with the gun. I don't plan on using sabots at all though.

 

[rgell1017]

That sounds good especially being able to use the Barnes right out of the package I'm just getting interested in doing a smokeless conversion and interested in any information. Would you know what velocity you were getting and what primers were you using I'm guessing maybe a mag. Of what brand

 

[redear]

hey guys, I don't know what velocity I am doing with 56 gr. of h4198 and 250 gr bullets but from what I have read on hank's message board it's probably 2300fps or so. I am using federal premium large magnum rifle primers with Jeff Hankins brass primer modules. these modules are brass and look like the back end of a 45-70 cartridge in dimension. anyone who is interested in these scout conversions needs to go to Hank's message board and read up. He converts and sells them already converted and there are a lot of members over there that are shooting them. A wool or vegetable fiber wad ( disc) is needed for best accuracy a lot of times but they are no trouble to use, just start one in the muzzle and push it down with the bullet.

 

[redear]

I only have 5 barnes tez 250"s left and I notice a lot of guys are sizing these to fit loose and then rolling them between 2 10-12 inch bastard files which creates a knurled surface and it fattens the bullet back up so the rifling makes grooves in the bullet and some guys say they get their best accuracy that way, so I'm gonna try that with these last 5 bullets. I know the bolt guns can safely use more powder but they are also a lot heavier to carry than this gun, being disabled I don't want to carry 12 or 13 lbs, my scout with scope and all is probably 9 lbs and that's just right. I'll let ya'll know about my progress with the gun, I need to finish my taxes so I can spend more time out there, lol.

 

[redear]

the scout converted by itself is around 780.00 or so but he has it in a kit that includes a bullet sizer and a 3 piece ramrod that works great, and has a great palm knob and spin type bullet jag on it, and 25 brass primer modules and a loading funnel that allows you to load powder wad and bullet right down through the muzzle break which is easily done. His kit is 999.00 I believe. It was worth it to me, and I haven't cleaned it yet, those guys say don't clean the barrel very often because it effects the bullet fit. the 4198 doesn't leave much in the barrel anyway if ya look down the barrel with the breech plug removed.

 

[redear]

I saw the thread over on hank's where Richard wasn't having a lot of luck with that scout, but he is a super experienced bench rest shooter that uses very heavy smokeless rifles and he has been trying to shoot this little break action using the same technique of not holding onto the front of the gun. I have 3 cva break action guns 2 muzzleloaders and a 20 gauge slug gun and they all require me to hold onto the gun and hold the front down in one way or another. I'm pretty sure he will get it shooting good once he tries holding onto it, be surprised if he doesn't. great guy that Richard.

 

[GM54-120]

You can get a Scout or Hunter converted for $200 bucks in 209. About another $100 for LRMP. $780 for just the converted Scout is high. The rifle itself can be found for well under $400.

The Hunter model has been dropped and a blued Scout has been added. No brake on the blued model.....i think.

https://cva.com/product/scout-45-70-govt-blued-black/