ENDS THE STUCK BREECH PLUG BLUES

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Sideshow

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Ok guys i keep seeing guys saying that they are getting their breech plugs stuck with T7 or other powders . I also keep sharing how to STOP THIS on other guys threads kinda hi--jacking them . I appoligize for that ......

SO HERE WE GO WITH THE INFO I KEEP GETTING ASKED ABOUT ......

How to END THE STUCK BREECH PLUG BLUES
This info is meant for "front "sealing" breech plugs that several manufactures of mz's use now and have used on many inlines for Years .

A front sealing breech plug is one that is supposed to form a seal on its front faceing surface as it screws in towards a " like " surface on the barrel and comes together touching each other to form "a seal" that is to hold up under the pressures that rifle is capable of with safe loading procedures and powder amounts and types . Ok ???
Manufactureing anomolies dont always allow a 100% leak free seal between the bp and the barrel . Mostly never actually .
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A LEAK FREE SEAL RIGHT THERE YOU WILL CONTINUE TO HAVE STUCK PLUGS WITH CERTAIN POWDERS , NAMELY T7 AND HOLY BLACK . No other option or band--aide will cure this , the PRIMARY CAUSE OF STUCK PLUGS .
WE GOTTA FIX THAT LEAK !!!!!!

THIS PROCESS IS KNOWN AS--LAPPING IN THE PLUG . at least thats what i call it since thats what we're doing and besides i invented it .

Ok we need some valve grinding compound from the auto parts store , yes the auto parts store . Its really cheap . Put it on the breech plugs front outer edge that faces the barrel as you screw it in . Be a bit generous with it
Screw the plug in till it contacts the barrel where the seal is supposed to be . Use your breech plug tool to litely snug it . I used a 1/4 in breaker bar with a socket . Repeatedly snug and loosen the breech plug over and over and over again . It will feel quite gritty at first . Slowly in time the grittyness will begin to lessen and it will start to feel much smoother as the bp and barrel come together as they " LAP IN " together . Youll need to apply more valve grinding compound during this process to the front of the plug . STOP.... to take a look at your progress from time to time .
What we're looking for on both the breech plug AND the barrel is a " light grey ring " of equal color , size , and uniformity all the way around where they meet together . THIS IS THE SEAL WE ARE AFTER !!!

Do NOT GRIND A "TRENCH" INTO THAT BARREL !!!!! BE GENTLE AND PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR PROGRESS !!!!!!

This " seal " precisely ground in with abrasives is EXACTLY whats been MISSING causeing your STUCK PLUGS !!!!
This is basically called " blueprinting " those surfaces for a 100% perfect leak free seal !!!!! The original blueprints for your gun DID NOT include space / spots for leaks !!! HOW IS CRUD GONNA GET TO YOUR THREADS IF THAT SEAL BETWEEN BP AND BARREL IS 100% ??? IT CANT !!!!

No different than the valves need this done in your car or truck when rebuilt as a part of a quality valve job .

You now too have a QUALITY 100% SEAL BETWEEN YOUR BREECH PLUG AND BARREL ABLE TO HOLD THE COMBUSTION OF YOUR POWDER WITHOUT LEAKING TO CONTAMINATE THE BREECH PLUG THREADS !!!

Ok , now step #2 in our 1 , 2 punch to knock out stuck plugs.......
Permatex Thread Sealant with PTFE # 80632 , a small bottle with brush also from the auto parts store . (About $10-11) and Worth every dime !!!

After youve cleaned the barrel and those threads of ALL ABRASSIVE VALVE GRINDING COMPOUND THAT WILL SCRATCH THE HELL OUT OF YOUR BARREL IF YOU DONT DO A SURGICALLY CLEAN JOB !!!! AND THE BREECH PLUG AS WELL !!!

We are now ready to assemble our plug and barrel . Take the brush of the permatex mounted in the cap and brush it onto/into the threads of both bp and barrel . Take your finger and wipe it ACROSS the threads to remove the excess and put it back inside by scraping it on the jar edge . Screw them together and snug the bp with your chosen tool. ......DONE
The permatex thread sealant with teflon(tpfe) is absolutely the finest , easyest to use bp lube / sealant youll ever find . IT IS ALSO OUR 2nd line of DEFENCE should our PRIMARY SEAL FAIL AT THE MATING SURFACE OF BP TO BARREL !!! PERMATEX THREAD SEALANT ALONE WORKS BUT LETS FINNISH THE JOB THE RIGHT WAY !!! (Mine hasnt FAILED for 26 yrs of use) It will somewhat dry after it sits for a day . No it will not loose its effectiveness if you take the plug in and out a few times . Its also " flows " into places teflon tape cant and will not bind or allow anything past it either . It also works for sloppy thread fits too . Yes its easy to clean off as well ..

.ABSOLUTELY NOTHING IS BETTER TO END THE STUCK BREECH PLUG BLUES !!!!! Now you got this info too , again actually .
Enjoy ,
---Sideshow
Ps . No More Need for cracking your plug loose after AN EXTENDED SHOOTING SESSION EITHER !!!!!
IT WILL NOT BE STUCK AGAIN !!!!
Once done , you guys are gonna LOVE this !!!!!
Oh yea , if you change plugs this lapping proceedure WILL have to be done again , remember this !!!.........may i suggest you download this for reference for years to come .:lewis:

Hold the show for 1 more thing !!!

You boys that shoot heavy loads of Blackhorn better take heed on this too . Chances are your plug is pretty hard and wont cut easy ----- but your barrel aint THAT TOUGH !!! Better consider lappin in your plug so you wont get any cutting going on with your barrel !!!
Whew , glad i caught ya before you thought glad i dont have THESE troubles......nope you could have your own . Lap it in !!!
 
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flounder

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Thanks for taking the time to post this. Looks like a project for some day when the snow is blowing.
 

hunt_so_ill

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Getting ready to purchase a new Lehigh breech plug for my Disc Extreme. I will definitely try “lapping in” the new plug. Thanks for the great info.
 

Sideshow

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Im a little suprised on the response on this thread . Like very little . Huh.....

Information around here dont get no better either .
Well i guess i hope its being read and downloaded anyway . It is THE solution .
 
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jims

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I am copying this so I can retain it. I also want to relieve my primer pocket so I get a more more depth of the primer in the pocket. Would then the lapping need to be redone or do it after the primer work as the barrel then needs to be done to get a proper "headspace"?
 

Sideshow

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I am copying this so I can retain it. I also want to relieve my primer pocket so I get a more more depth of the primer in the pocket. Would then the lapping need to be redone or do it after the primer work as the barrel then needs to be done to get a proper "headspace"?
What rifle?
 

michiganmuzzy

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Will the lapping create excess head space?
Unless you have a really bad mating surface, i doubt it will take more than a couple thousandths, if that much. I plan to do a couple knights, a white and maybe a cva. I'll measure before and after.
 

Far Sighted

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I ended my stuck breech plug blues by adding thread seal compound on the first few threads of the plug.
 

ENCORE50A

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RUM owners.... I would suggest that you NOT use this process. There are more than enough contributing factors to the OEM ignition system head space issues, that even removing a single one thousandths (.001") will make head spacing worse than it may already be.

The process isn't necessary at all for those with the Gen2 breech plugs.
 

toytruck

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I printed this before it goes away, but honestly haven't had a problem with triple 7 in my Whites since I use Slick 50 teflon grease. I also use a small amount on the Optima V2 plug with BH209 again no issues. Even after numerous shots at the range the plug still comes out with hardly any effort. I'm always open to new ideas that work so will watch for further testing on this. Thanks Sideshow!!
 

michiganmuzzy

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My guns are plunger guns so I wasn't even thinking about how "fine tuned" the headspace needs to be on other types. Good point.
I was thinking about my whites mainly, too. But my knights i can just reshim the breech plug if it's necessary. My cva tho, maybe i won't do that one.
 

michiganmuzzy

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cva has a thin wall shoulder at it's mating surface that likely just gets compressed at the initial tightening and doesn't seem like it needs lapping.
I understand that the 10ml is a bit sensitive to headspace
 

Sideshow

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RUM owners.... I would suggest that you NOT use this process. There are more than enough contributing factors to the OEM ignition system head space issues, that even removing a single one thousandths (.001") will make head spacing worse than it may already be.

The process isn't necessary at all for those with the Gen2 breech plugs.
Exactly right encore50a . I do apologize for this oversight for this rifle , the Remington uml . Your only real choice is to get the Arrowhead plug . Its the best choice you can possibly make !!!!
 

Sideshow

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Will the lapping create excess head space?
There will be a change . How much is an individual basis . Ajustment of headspace COULD be required . NORMALLY the amount removed is very minimal . Remember we are trying to create smooth sealing SURFACES , NOT dig a ditch !!!!
While i can understand all of your concerns YOU have got to understand 1 thing . I dont have each of your various guns before me . What ive declared is indeed sound conceptually . Breech to barrel MUST SEAL . This juncture is right smack in the middle of muzzleloader preformance at its core . This is where the pressure is the greatest . We can chose to either contain it or let it leak . In my mind if the very foundation is lacking or weak just about EVERYTHING ELSE is really very secondary to IT .,i.e.--containing the pressure involved .

The carts place is NOT before the horse .

If youd choose to ignore this with heavy load smokeless chances are we'd all be speaking of you in the " past tence " .......

If you have operational questions with your particular rifle and cant make a determination on the suitability/feasability of this on your own i would suggest you consult a gunsmith of your choice and see if this will apply to your individual mz .
 
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