Enlarging Lee 4-20 spout

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Reeferman

Member
Joined
May 5, 2021
Messages
6
Reaction score
2
I watched Idaho Lewis’s video on enlarging the spout on his Lee pots to 3/32“ and was wondering if others have done this? I’m casting 405 to 500 grain bullets for 45/70 but also cast 38357, 44 and 45 Colt as well.
 
Ive done it on my Lee 10# bottom pour. Any enlargement is an improvement. I went in steps to make sure i didnt go too large. I cast mainly 300 to 400 grain .45 bullets.
 
Thanks for the reply. I should have admitted to already drilling it out. I’ve been casting with a 10 lb Lee and this is the first with the 20 lb one. Going to try it tomorrow and see if I made a mistake or not.😩
 
If you enlarge the Hole like i do, you can stil adjust the Flow right down to a trickle with the Shut off/Adjustment Stem. 3/32 is actually a bit to much, if you try and Run wide open at 3/32 It will splash lead back up out of the Mold, You simply adjust the flow with the Stem to where you want it. I cast LOTS of 500 PLUS Grain Bullets, to get optimum Fillout with BIG Bullets you need to Fill the Mold QUICKLY, This is where enlarging the Spout comes in. On the Contrary, i can Dampen the Flow down to a Trickle and Fill 128 Grain Roundball Molds

Rust in the Spout can be a Problem with Bottom pour Pots, To Keep the spout clean I simply use a HEX Shanked 3/32 Drill Bit, turning it in by Hand with a Welder Glove on, After each casting session I fill my Lead Pots back up Full, I don’t worry about Rust inside the Pot, a Simple Stir, and Scraping of the Pot Bottom & sides now & then is all that’s needed, any crud pops up to the Top and i simply Skim it off.
 
In short, Just because you drill the Spout out to 3/32” doesn’t mean you have to use it wide open, You stil have FULL control of Flow by using the adjustment Stem

The benefit of drilling the Spout out to 3/32 is you can Open the Flow to Fill LARGE Cavity Molds QUICKLY, VERY QUICKLY, Which is EXTREMELY important for Optimum Fillout with LARGE Cavity Molds. Without drilling the Spout, you are stuck with the Factory Flow (Safety reasons)
 
I got the idea from watching your video on your channel. I can cast some not bad big bullets with the 10 lb pot but always not the best. I figured what the hell if it worked for you then maybe it will for me with the 20 lb pot.
I have cast a ton of really nice 38, 44 and 45 bullets from my Lee 10 lb pot but the big ones not so much.
I‘ve been using a PID controller I built and it has really helped with the small pot.
 
I got the idea from watching your video on your channel. I can cast some not bad big bullets with the 10 lb pot but always not the best. I figured what the hell if it worked for you then maybe it will for me with the 20 lb pot.
I have cast a ton of really nice 38, 44 and 45 bullets from my Lee 10 lb pot but the big ones not so much.
I‘ve been using a PID controller I built and it has really helped with the small pot.

It will work for ya :lewis: Get your Mold & Alloy/Lead HOT, I cast at around 800 Degrees

What i mean by adjustment stem, When you screw the Adjustment stem down it is Lifting the Handle til it starts getting Snug/Tight, If you keep turning the adjustment stem down this will eventually completely Stop the Flow, Now SLOWLY unscrew the Stem a tiny bit, then lift the Handle and check the Flow? Keep doing this until you get the Flow you Want/Need. In the end, with the Spout opened to 3/32” You will barely lift the Handle to get Flow. Hope that makes sense. It is SUPER EASY, and Works like a Dream :lewis:
 
It will work for ya :lewis: Get your Mold & Alloy/Lead HOT, I cast at around 800 Degrees

What i mean by adjustment stem, When you screw the Adjustment stem down it is Lifting the Handle til it starts getting Snug/Tight, If you keep turning the adjustment stem down this will eventually completely Stop the Flow, Now SLOWLY unscrew the Stem a tiny bit, then lift the Handle and check the Flow? Keep doing this until you get the Flow you Want/Need. In the end, with the Spout opened to 3/32” You will barely lift the Handle to get Flow. Hope that makes sense. It is SUPER EASY, and Works like a Dream :lewis:
used you technique, made sharp pretty bullets, still getting a 3 grain spread, any ideas?
 
3 grain spread for your first time is very good. I know of a manufacture who’s bullets weigh 5-7 grains from what they are supposed to be.
 
Well I cast some bullets today and pot worked ok. However I just can’t seem to make the two single cavity Lee 405 HB and the Lee dual cavity 500 grain moulds cast bullets the way I would like them to. I tried temperature from 650 to 900 degrees with a 20 to 1 and a 30 to 1 lead tin mix.
I have some Lee dies for 38/357, 44special/ magnum and 45 Colt that cast bullets that some say there is no way they came from a Lee mould they are that good.
I guess I’m going to have to spend some money on a steel mould and see if that works better. 54C14E22-26DC-4CE0-A42F-F9985451AE44.jpeg
 
Well I cast some bullets today and pot worked ok. However I just can’t seem to make the two single cavity Lee 405 HB and the Lee dual cavity 500 grain moulds cast bullets the way I would like them to. I tried temperature from 650 to 900 degrees with a 20 to 1 and a 30 to 1 lead tin mix.
I have some Lee dies for 38/357, 44special/ magnum and 45 Colt that cast bullets that some say there is no way they came from a Lee mould they are that good.
I guess I’m going to have to spend some money on a steel mould and see if that works better. View attachment 14432

Did you try any Compression? If not, Get your Lead/Alloy in the 725-750 Degree Range and Try again with Compression :lewis: Some Molds cast their absolute Best with some Compression.

https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/threads/compression-bullet-casting.36238/
 
Finally found out why I was having issues casting. I couldn’t understand why the new Lee 405 HB mold was dropping light and so shiny. So I tried the old 405 HB mold and it was as well. The 500 grain Lee was getting up to 500 grains but it had always cast 510 or better.
I guess last year when I last used them the ingots I thought were pure lead was a 20 to 1 lead tin and I added tin which would have made it around a 10 to 1 or less. I thought I was going from a 20 to 1 to a 30 to one but it couldn’t have been.
Once I added lead to get a proper mix they both dropped 405 with less than a half grain variance with PID set to 800 degrees F.
That old Lee 404 HB mold was the first mold I had ever used and needless to say it looks like it shouldn’t be able to cast anything but it still drops with less than half a grain and .461 diameter. The new one drops the same weight with .462 diameter.
I even went back to my old 10 lb pot to see if it made a difference. Next day or so going to use the 20 lb pot and see how it goes.
 
Finally found out why I was having issues casting. I couldn’t understand why the new Lee 405 HB mold was dropping light and so shiny. So I tried the old 405 HB mold and it was as well. The 500 grain Lee was getting up to 500 grains but it had always cast 510 or better.
I guess last year when I last used them the ingots I thought were pure lead was a 20 to 1 lead tin and I added tin which would have made it around a 10 to 1 or less. I thought I was going from a 20 to 1 to a 30 to one but it couldn’t have been.
Once I added lead to get a proper mix they both dropped 405 with less than a half grain variance with PID set to 800 degrees F.
That old Lee 404 HB mold was the first mold I had ever used and needless to say it looks like it shouldn’t be able to cast anything but it still drops with less than half a grain and .461 diameter. The new one drops the same weight with .462 diameter.
I even went back to my old 10 lb pot to see if it made a difference. Next day or so going to use the 20 lb pot and see how it goes.

Alloy Variances, to Pure Lead makes a BIG Difference in weight. I have three 20 pound Lee Bottom Pour Pots, Each Pot is marked, 1-20 Alloy ONLY, PURE Lead ONLY, and Lyman #2 ONLY. I purchase my Pure Lead, Lyman #2, and 1-20 Alloys (CERTIFIED) from Buffalo Arms Co. NOTHING else is allowed in my Lead Pots
 
Last edited:
Finally found out why I was having issues casting. I couldn’t understand why the new Lee 405 HB mold was dropping light and so shiny. So I tried the old 405 HB mold and it was as well. The 500 grain Lee was getting up to 500 grains but it had always cast 510 or better.
I guess last year when I last used them the ingots I thought were pure lead was a 20 to 1 lead tin and I added tin which would have made it around a 10 to 1 or less. I thought I was going from a 20 to 1 to a 30 to one but it couldn’t have been.
Once I added lead to get a proper mix they both dropped 405 with less than a half grain variance with PID set to 800 degrees F.
That old Lee 404 HB mold was the first mold I had ever used and needless to say it looks like it shouldn’t be able to cast anything but it still drops with less than half a grain and .461 diameter. The new one drops the same weight with .462 diameter.
I even went back to my old 10 lb pot to see if it made a difference. Next day or so going to use the 20 lb pot and see how it goes.

Another thing to remember, Weights can vary quite a bit from a Mold number, Such as your 405, Just because it says 405 Doesn’t mean it will Cast exactly 405, No matter what Alloy, or Pure Lead. I have seen weights vary 20 Grains and even More, especially the Larger the Mold, Alloy used, Pure Lead, It ALL makes a Difference.

The key is to get Optimum Mold Fillout, That will be your “Target” Bullet weight, Be it an Alloy, or Pure Lead. Due to the way i cast, The very first Bullet out of my Mold will ALWAYS be the Heaviest, This is the Bullet i measure (Weigh) ALL others By
 

Latest posts

Back
Top