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I have been wanting to take a deer this year with my Dad's old custom .54 side lock, but for some reason it continues to shoot low. I have tried both round balls and conicals with 80 and 90grns of Triple Seven. I can get them to group, but everything is about 6 inches low. The iron sights are not adjustable, so my question is do I need to file the front sight at this point? I could just aim high but I would prefer not to do that. If I do need to file the front sight, approximately how much should I take off? It is about 6" low at 50 yrds. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
I'd say to get a new taller front sight. Once you get it to group up well at various distances, then you can file it down to get it where you want.
 
A couple thousands filed off the front sight makes a pretty big difference..you could fine tune the rifle by filing it down and if need be order a new one by measuring how tall the sight is after filing it
 
The problem is that both sights are "welded" in place. I guess that was the way my Dad wanted it done (don't know why) otherwise I wouldn't even be asking the question, and I simply would have ordered a new front sight.
 
My last comment was in error.
If shooting low, you would have to file down the front sight to raise the point of impact.
Proceed slowly, just removing a little at a time.
Yeah, that is what I read. I am guessing I would use a fine file instead of a course one in order to only shave off a bit at a time?
 
Yeah, that is what I read. I am guessing I would use a fine file instead of a course one in order to only shave off a bit at a time?
What I do when necessary is to take a Sharpie or similar and mark across the top of of the sight. Maybe about a 1/16".
Depending on how low the gun is shooting, I might take that full 1/16" off the top.
I've had a few guns that needed a good solid 1/8" or even more taken off.
I always start at 50 yards for this process.
 
Measure the distance between the sights. The amount of sight change is based on the sight radius and distance of the group shot.
 
To calculate sight adjustment use the formula (X / sight radius in inches) = (POI correction needed / distance to target in inches). X is the amount you will need to move your sight. Plugging some numbers into the equation:
POI correction needed = 6"
distance to target = 3600" (100 yards)

You will need to measure the sight radius, within 1/4" is fine. Just for example let's say it's 24". Simplifying the equation with those numbers you get:
(6 * 24) / 3600 = X, solving for X you get .04". So you'd need to move the sight .04"
 
To calculate sight adjustment use the formula (X / sight radius in inches) = (POI correction needed / distance to target in inches). X is the amount you will need to move your sight. Plugging some numbers into the equation:
POI correction needed = 6"
distance to target = 3600" (100 yards)

You will need to measure the sight radius, within 1/4" is fine. Just for example let's say it's 24". Simplifying the equation with those numbers you get:
(6 * 24) / 3600 = X, solving for X you get .04". So you'd need to move the sight .04"
Sorry but I cannot convert your written formula to your example formula. Is there something missing?
Walk
 
To calculate sight adjustment use the formula (X / sight radius in inches) = (POI correction needed / distance to target in inches). X is the amount you will need to move your sight. Plugging some numbers into the equation:
POI correction needed = 6"
distance to target = 3600" (100 yards)

You will need to measure the sight radius, within 1/4" is fine. Just for example let's say it's 24". Simplifying the equation with those numbers you get:
(6 * 24) / 3600 = X, solving for X you get .04". So you'd need to move the sight .04"
So, in other words, 4/100 of an inch at 100yrds? I am at 50 yrds shooting 6" low, so that would be 6*24/1800= 8/100. I have a micrometer for reloading, but I am trying to figure out how to measure that accurately on the front of the gun. And I tell my kids all the time that algebra is worthless:eek:
 
Since you are needing to trim the front sight, and since you probably want to be a hair high at 50 yards, I would measure .1" and make a light mark with a pen, file, white out, whatever. And then shoot a few rounds using that mark as the "top" of the front sight, and see if it is correct. Then get out the file and go for it.

Alternatively, take file to range, three or four strokes and fire a shot. Three or four more, fire again. Assuming the rifle groups well you should see how far three or four strokes move things, and so you can take fewer or more strokes between shots. Remember, really hard to put it back after you take it off...
 
Yeah, that is what I read. I am guessing I would use a fine file instead of a course one in order to only shave off a bit at a time?
Distance between sights in inches X distance to move POI divided by yardage to the target

Example
24” (distance between the sights) X 6"(Point of impact adjustment needed) / 1800" (at 50 yards) = .08

25 yards 900 inches
50 yards 1800 inches
100 yards 3600 inches

you can use a course file at first. Just take a couple swipes off and then shoot a group, switch to a fine file as you sneak up on your correct elevation. If you have a steel caliper you could use it to mark .08” on the side of the sight.
 
Only a suggestion from an old guy not claiming expertise - be sure the load you're sighting in with is the one you intend to stay with before filing down the welded-on sight. Changing velocity may change the point of impact. Might also suggest having someone else try a few shots to be sure the problem isn't something you're doing.

Good luck. Have fun. Please keep us posted on how this turns out.
 
UPDATE: I filed the sight about 1/20 of an inch (used my micrometer to measure). This did help my POI. I need to file a bit more however because I am still consistently low. I am using 90grns of triple seven, which is my intended hunting load.
 
Distance between sights in inches X distance to move POI divided by yardage to the target

Example
24” (distance between the sights) X 6"(Point of impact adjustment needed) / 1800" (at 50 yards) = .08

25 yards 900 inches
50 yards 1800 inches
100 yards 3600 inches

you can use a course file at first. Just take a couple swipes off and then shoot a group, switch to a fine file as you sneak up on your correct elevation. If you have a steel caliper you could use it to mark .08” on the side of the sight.

Only a suggestion from an old guy not claiming expertise - be sure the load you're sighting in with is the one you intend to stay with before filing down the welded-on sight. Changing velocity may change the point of impact. Might also suggest having someone else try a few shots to be sure the problem isn't something you're doing.

Good luck. Have fun. Please keep us posted on how this turns out.

UPDATE: I filed the sight about 1/20 of an inch (used my micrometer to measure). This did help my POI. I need to file a bit more however because I am still consistently low. I am using 90grns of triple seven, which is my intended hunting load.
All good advice. I had the same thing with a Lyman Great Plains Hunter. File a little off, shoot a couple shots, file some more, shoot a couple, etc. until you're hitting where you want it. Just one thing because I'm not sure of your shooting expertise but are you using the correct sight picture depending on your sights.
Semi-buckhorn sights like on a Winchester 94 you place the bead in the notch on the rear sight and put the point of desired impact on top of the front bead (6 O'clock hold). But with full buckhorn sights you center the top of the front blade sight in the center of the "buckhorn" for desired point of impact when aligned with the target. The top of the blade is raised or lowered inside the buckhorn for varying distances. The little notch on some buckhorn sights are only for a reference to help center the front blade.
 

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