First attempt casting .50 Lyman Plains Bullet

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I went back to your tutorial about time spent to get temperature up on the mold. My first batch (yesterday) I dipped the mold into the lead, today I heated it with a torch. Yesterday my weights were higher, over 400 grains, today they were less, 396 to 398 grains and wider deviation in weight. I see now how much the temperature plays on the process, and I know I could improve on the quality of my molten lead with cleanliness and flexing. Thank you Lewis and to all of you guiding me through this adventure. I am blessed to be the student!

Glad to help ya anyway i can :lewis:
 
While I gotcha here, do you think my mold is defective due to only casting .503 on the top band, or do you think temperature will make a difference?

I am confident it’s Temperature, When you get optimum fillout that Top band Should be .508, or there very close abouts :lewis: That’s why i say you will Gain a Couple Grains in Weight. All molds are not IDENTICAL, there can be Slight differences from Mold to Mold. But what i see with your Bullet at 398 or So Grains, that is VERY close to mine, My Lyman Plains 50 Cal Bullet Comes in at 400-401 Grains When Cast of Pure Lead, Yours will be very close to the Same, maybe even a little more when you get them Cast SHARP, Fully Filled out.
 
Looks Good :lewis: The very Top Band should measure close to .508

Get your Mold HOTTER, And your Lead between 790 & 810 Degrees, Shoot for 800

Do you have a Lead Thermometer? If not, I HIGHLY advise one. Without a Lead Thermometer it is a Guessing Game. This is the Best Deal i have seen on them, This is an RCBS without a Logo, Made for Rotometals, This is a good Price on a Good Lead Thermometer :lewis:
https://www.rotometals.com/lead-bullet-casting-thermometer-6/
So happy to hit this site, yep i will get a thermometer and start all over but everybody is out of everything but i have some home work to do first. I have some soft metal i think it’s called failsafe it was sold for making a cast of you barrel you think that will give me good measurements of my barrels. Second question have you tried those bullets on 1/66 twist in a .45
 
I am confident it’s Temperature, When you get optimum fillout that Top band Should be .508, or there very close abouts :lewis: That’s why i say you will Gain a Couple Grains in Weight. All molds are not IDENTICAL, there can be Slight differences from Mold to Mold. But what i see with your Bullet at 398 or So Grains, that is VERY close to mine, My Lyman Plains 50 Cal Bullet Comes in at 400-401 Grains When Cast of Pure Lead, Yours will be very close to the Same, maybe even a little more when you get them Cast SHARP, Fully Filled out.
Today I did some preventive maintenance on my lead pot. It was used, very old maybe 30 used old, and the sides of the pot was coated with what I thought was refractory but was really just years of crud. So I scraped dismantled the pot, scraped it out, took a wire wheel and cleaned it up. Started a new batch of lead, fluxed it with a piece of wax candle and now I have higher temps in the pot. I also noticed the edge of the molten lead is squared with the sides of the pot, like the pic you showed me of the bullet in the mold. Now I can see my lead is almost to temp but using a thermometer to verify it.
 

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So happy to hit this site, yep i will get a thermometer and start all over but everybody is out of everything but i have some home work to do first. I have some soft metal i think it’s called failsafe it was sold for making a cast of you barrel you think that will give me good measurements of my barrels. Second question have you tried those bullets on 1/66 twist in a .45

I believe you are talking about a product called Cerro-Safe, it has a low melting temperature range from 158°-190° F for Chamber casting.
https://www.buffaloarms.com/cerro-safe-chamber-casting-alloy-1lb-ingot-cerrosafe
Unfortunately They Don‘t make this Lyman Plains bullet Mold in .45 Cal (At least i have never seen or heard of it?) only .50 & .54 Cal that I know of
 
Today I did some preventive maintenance on my lead pot. It was used, very old maybe 30 used old, and the sides of the pot was coated with what I thought was refractory but was really just years of crud. So I scraped dismantled the pot, scraped it out, took a wire wheel and cleaned it up. Started a new batch of lead, fluxed it with a piece of wax candle and now I have higher temps in the pot. I also noticed the edge of the molten lead is squared with the sides of the pot, like the pic you showed me of the bullet in the mold. Now I can see my lead is almost to temp but using a thermometer to verify it.

Looks Good! :lewis: Like i said above, Get your Mold HOT, The first Bullet you pour Should take a 30 Seconds to a Minute or so to Solidify, Quicky Cast a few and Cull them, This will get your Mold ”in the Zone” Then Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start keeping them :lewis:
 
Today I did some preventive maintenance on my lead pot. It was used, very old maybe 30 used old, and the sides of the pot was coated with what I thought was refractory but was really just years of crud. So I scraped dismantled the pot, scraped it out, took a wire wheel and cleaned it up. Started a new batch of lead, fluxed it with a piece of wax candle and now I have higher temps in the pot. I also noticed the edge of the molten lead is squared with the sides of the pot, like the pic you showed me of the bullet in the mold. Now I can see my lead is almost to temp but using a thermometer to verify it.
Be careful with the wire wheel. You make a ton of lead dust and should be wearing a mask. Best to do it out side and stay upwind of it,still wearing the mask.
 
Today I did some preventive maintenance on my lead pot. It was used, very old maybe 30 used old, and the sides of the pot was coated with what I thought was refractory but was really just years of crud. So I scraped dismantled the pot, scraped it out, took a wire wheel and cleaned it up. Started a new batch of lead, fluxed it with a piece of wax candle and now I have higher temps in the pot. I also noticed the edge of the molten lead is squared with the sides of the pot, like the pic you showed me of the bullet in the mold. Now I can see my lead is almost to temp but using a thermometer to verify it.
Grafs has this one in stock, cheap.
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/74543
 
Looks Good! :lewis: Like i said above, Get your Mold HOT, The first Bullet you pour Should take a 30 Seconds to a Minute or so to Solidify, Quicky Cast a few and Cull them, This will get your Mold ”in the Zone” Then Swing the Sprue Plate Closed and Start keeping them :lewis:
I tried desperately to get that temperature up but that little 275 watt element is just too small. I found a 500 watt replacement element that fits all the Lee pots, so I'll get mine upgraded when it comes. I'm just gonna shoot some round ball until I get the element and make some Boolits!
 
I tried desperately to get that temperature up but that little 275 watt element is just too small. I found a 500 watt replacement element that fits all the Lee pots, so I'll get mine upgraded when it comes. I'm just gonna shoot some round ball until I get the element and make some Boolits!

I didn’t even think about your Pot having that Smaller Element? Mine must be the 500 Watt? My Pots are Lee 4-20 Bottom Pours

I just looked, mine are 700 Watt
 
I tried desperately to get that temperature up but that little 275 watt element is just too small. I found a 500 watt replacement element that fits all the Lee pots, so I'll get mine upgraded when it comes. I'm just gonna shoot some round ball until I get the element and make some Boolits!

500 Watts will be PLENTY :lewis:
 
I didn’t even think about your Pot having that Smaller Element? Mine must be the 500 Watt? My Pots are Lee 4-20 Bottom Pours

I just looked, mine are 700 Watt
I was looking at the Lee 90021 4lb pot with 500 watts and a thermostat. Mine doesn't have the thermostat but its the same size with just a smaller 275 watt element. 30+ years ago, I guess that was enough. For round balls and sinkers, it's fine, but not enough heat for pouring 400 grainers and iron molds!
 
Definitely! :lewis:
I didn’t even think about your Pot having that Smaller Element? Mine must be the 500 Watt? My Pots are Lee 4-20 Bottom Pours

I just looked, mine are 700 Watt
Seeing my Plains bullet casting is on hold for a few days, I'm gonna shoot up my round balls. I'm going to call around for a .490 round ball mold cause they shoot really well out of my Flintlock. Any advise on casting them that would be different from casting conicals?
 
Seeing my Plains bullet casting is on hold for a few days, I'm gonna shoot up my round balls. I'm going to call around for a .490 round ball mold cause they shoot really well out of my Flintlock. Any advise on casting them that would be different from casting conicals?
I can't speak for anyone else, but I use a bag mold for round ball and a pot and ladle.The mold heats up quick, you will want a pair of welders gloves or rawhide wrap the handles etc, old timers used corn cobbs and the like. Larry Callahan makes the best bag molds I have ever seen, Callahan Bagmolds & Accoutrements.
 
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