gm54-120

[Idaholewis]

This is a name unfamiliar to me. I will be lookin for some now. Thanks

You won’t go wrong with it It gets RAVE Reviews, and is talked HIGHLY of across every Gun forum on the Web.

This WD-40 Specialist Stuff is certainly interesting. But truth is, i have never been a WD-40 Fan, I have always looked at it as being better than Nothing, BUT this “Specialist“ Stuff is a Different Animal

 

[Ninering62]

You won’t go wrong with it It gets RAVE Reviews, and is talked HIGHLY of across every Gun forum on the Web.

This WD-40 Specialist Stuff is certainly interesting. But truth is, i have never been a WD-40 Fan, I have always looked at it as being better than Nothing, BUT this “Specialist“ Stuff is a Different Animal

Cool man, Thanks. As a life long shade tree mech & 30yr metal fabricator, I'm fam with WD-40 & its served its purpose until I got exposed to much better products through my many diff working environments. I'm old school & was brought up on Hopps gen gun care & Thompson cleaning products my whole life until fairly recently when I finally stepped into the 21st century of muzzleloading & propellents like T7 & BH 209 where different cleaning/lubing products are better suited for. One of the main fuels for my innate love for all things muzzleloading is the never-ending learning experience & endless room to strive to learn more, shoot better/faster. load & clean more efficiently ...... the endless challenges one can set & achieve for themselves is nuthin less than fascinating to me. Not " reinventing the wheel " but certainly, the endless pursuit of improving on it in every way conceivable.

 

[MrTom]

And to be perfectly clear with ya'll, I'm not looking for lubrication or a slip factor, I'm looking at the WD40 Specialist only from the long term corrosion/ rust prevention direction. Where a lube is needed I use nothing by synthetic and have for a long time.

Everyone has their pet products that they swear by. I know I do but I also understand that what I like might not be anyone else's cup of tea. And that's fine. I am thinking that this will fit nicely in my cup though.

 

[wmdbowman]

Tom, WD-40 was designed primarily as a drier and corrosion prevention not for lubrication. I think your on the right track as far as preventing corrosion. This new WD40 product sounds like it might be even a better,. Like I said I don't use it on my guns. I use WD40 around the house for door hinges Ect.
For gun bore cleaning all smokeless guns I use Hoppes with a little Kroil added and a splash of nitro benzene. followed by LSA
For black powder I use boiling hot water. My hopes blend followed by RIG
For Blackhorn I use the same as for my smokeless guns.
Exterior metal I us EEZOX on stainless and LSA on everything else.
Brand new gun Barresl I wipe interior with Montana X-treme bore conditioner, and wipe dry before shooting. It a very fine oil almost like water.
gets down into the grain of the new cutmetal

 

[GM54-120]

That is the only reason i got is also...Better long term protection. Truth be told i like Montana Xtreme Bore Conditioner a lot too. Especially if you are shooting Triple7. Its one of the few lubes ive seen make a minor improvement in the T7 fouling. I also have reasonably good luck with it just popping a few primers and 1 dry swab vs using a solvent to remove any lube from the bore.

There are surely better products if you want a lubricant. The one Woodman mentioned is excellent and when you can find it at gun shows its way more affordable than most commercial products. Its also synthetic based. NATO code is 0-158. Ive gotten it from either Swiss or Swede Surplus before in small bottles at the gun shows.

 

[wmdbowman]

All good stuff . If I run out of LSA I'm going to get some CLP, But it's going to be awhile I have a Qt. and a half of LSA yet.
I see CLP surplus for sale on the web at decent $

 

[GM54-120]

The area that concerns me the most is between barrel and stock. Repell the water but be safe for wood finish or composites. Safe for blueing too. On SS i just use my Honda Polish. Water beads off fast and it safe for plastics. I even used to it clean MC windscreens. Really helped removing bugs later too. On my NULA im far more cautious. Its blued with a super expensive composite you cant just waltz out and replace. Its also full length bedded so whatever lube is used its gunna get on everything.

When in doubt just store the action out of the stock. Lubed and in a silicone treated gun sock in the case. I keep all mine in socks when in the case. Seen the padding react occasionally with lubes.

 

[wmdbowman]

For wood or composite I find 2 or 3 coats of Johnson floor wax to work well, also good for a painted stock.
I use a polyurethane finish on my new built guns lately, It's called Pro Custom Oil.
For traditional ML guns I have used a mix of Tung oil and boiled linseed oil. with Japan dryer after staining.
The Johnson Wax is also nice to rub into a newly browned ML barrel or some bees wax heated in turpentine.
Petroleum Oil and wood are not good together over a very long period of time. First the wood will darken and later it will start to soften.
Unless the gun has been wet in the rain I don't worry about what is under the barrel. Regardless don't let a gun get soaked even if it's a painted gun. Then you have to do what your doing.
I don't ever store my guns apart except heavy machine guns, I store without the barrels in place.
Keep everything assembled, apart only for cleaning just what is necessary, and then back together for storage.
My 2 cents, Just saying, been there and done that

 

[MrTom]

I may have mentioned this is other threads too, but I store all of my muzzies with the plugs out, the exceptions being side locks. I don't store any of my bolt guns with the bolts in either.

 

[wmdbowman]

In my above quote I meant to say Johnsons paste wax not floor wax. If one doesn't want to remove or disassemble the next best thing is to store gun muzzle down. Have been doing it for years. Guns can also be stored with no problems in a hard case with no foam contact. I know the large military armories store all there guns with the bolts in.

 

[Matthew323]

I stored all of my flintlock longrifles muzzle down after cleaning to avoid having any excess lubricant flow out of the touch hole, and soften the wood of the lock mortise. They all had 40"-42" long barrels, so there was a significant amount of lubricant coating the bores during storage.

 

[wmdbowman]

I understand, I learned muzzle down storage when I started collecting golden age American made double shotguns all have been stored muzzle down to keep oil out of the breech and locks. Many antique guns show oil damage from being stored muzzle up. especially around the tang and locks. Back action locks are the worse.