Hawken - potential issues

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Bushfire

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G'day all,

My hawken turned up today and I have a few things I'm a little concerned about. Before I start on that the brand as it turns out is "Dikar Spain". Does anyone know anything about these rifles?

My little gripe is that it seems to me that the ramrod is a bit short, when in the barrel it's 19mm or about 3/4" from the top of the muzzle. I know with powder and shot it won't be so bad but it still seems to be cutting fine compared to my TC inline.

20200710_191756.jpg

20200710_204458.jpg

More concerning to me though is the hammer. I've included a video below, basically it will usually click into captive half cock but when brought back to full cock it doesn't "click" into it. At other times it fully slips out of the lock.



Said to the guy that providing it was in good working order and the bore was good I'd take it. Was assured it was.

Here's the first few patches out of the barrel.
20200710_223511.jpg

Mind you this rifle was sold as in "excellent" condition.
 
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Ram rod is short..... You will not be able to run a patch through it as can't hold on especially if fowling is present.
 
Bushfire, I don’t know anything about that Particular Rifle, and Lock Mechanism, As I’ve never had one in my Hand, But most of these things are VERY close to the Same in how they Function

Pull the Barrel off (unless you can Remove the Lock with the Barrel in place?) Remove the Lock, Take a Close up, Detailed Picture (Best you can) of the inside of the Lock and post it so i can See it.

Just a few guesses here until i can see the inside of the Lock.

The Sear Tip might be Broke/Chipped
the Bridal Plate might be Loose
There is possibly an Adjustment Screw inside that Adjusts the Tumbler (Like my CVA Mountain Rifle) If your rifle has this Screw? It might be out of Adjustment
 
Many bore protectants will show color similar to rust, are you positive those patches have rust on them? Bore butter turns very brown after sitting in a barrel, and many oils can look the same. Take a look down the bore and see what it looks like.
The ramrod is definitely a little short, but with an extended jag on it you may be able to use it. Look for a jag that has a cupped end for loading and is tapered right behind the head, they are usually a bit longer. The Possible's Shop has jags like I'm talking about. If it still bugs you then I'd make a new one. Make very sure to pin the ends. There are some places that will build it for you, you just give them a length and what kind of ends you want on it.
I'm with Lew on the lock, I'd have to see the internals of it. I broke the end of the sear off on my Renegade and it acted very much like yours is doing, but it could also have an adjustment like the older CVA's.
 
Here’s a pic of the internals of a lock. Most are pretty similar. The red arrow is pointing to the end of the sear, just under the fly, that you need to check. Look closely and make sure the very tip of yours isn’t broke off
 

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Bushfire, I don’t know anything about that Particular Rifle, and Lock Mechanism, As I’ve never had one in my Hand, But most of these things are VERY close to the Same in how they Function

Pull the Barrel off (unless you can Remove the Lock with the Barrel in place?) Remove the Lock, Take a Close up, Detailed Picture (Best you can) of the inside of the Lock and post it so i can See it.

Just a few guesses here until i can see the inside of the Lock.

The Sear Tip might be Broke/Chipped
the Bridal Plate might be Loose
There is possibly an Adjustment Screw inside that Adjusts the Tumbler (Like my CVA Mountain Rifle) If your rifle has this Screw? It might be out of Adjustment

I'm just hitting the hay at the moment as it's almost midnight, got my two year olds bday party tomorrow but I'll get on to it tomorrow night and post a pic.

Thank you.
 
I'm just hitting the hay at the moment as it's almost midnight, got my two year olds bday party tomorrow but I'll get on to it tomorrow night and post a pic.

Thank you.

Now that’s a SERIOUS Time Difference I didn’t even think about? The Sun is just starting to peak up here now, getting ready to start the Day
 
Many bore protectants will show color similar to rust, are you positive those patches have rust on them? Bore butter turns very brown after sitting in a barrel, and many oils can look the same. Take a look down the bore and see what it looks like.
The ramrod is definitely a little short, but with an extended jag on it you may be able to use it. Look for a jag that has a cupped end for loading and is tapered right behind the head, they are usually a bit longer. The Possible's Shop has jags like I'm talking about. If it still bugs you then I'd make a new one. Make very sure to pin the ends. There are some places that will build it for you, you just give them a length and what kind of ends you want on it.
I'm with Lew on the lock, I'd have to see the internals of it. I broke the end of the sear off on my Renegade and it acted very much like yours is doing, but it could also have an adjustment like the older CVA's.

Looked like rust but I'll have to check it tomorrow.

It's been hard getting things shipped across the pond but I'll look into it if it comes to that.

I'll get a pic of the internals tomorrow for you gentlemen to gander at.

Thank you
 
I recently bought a CVA mountain pistol in a pawnshop. The hammer would go to half cock but wouldn't stay at full. Similar to what you got going on. I took the lock off and found a small adjustment screw that was turned in all the way for some reason. I backed off on the screw about 4 full turns and problem solved.
 
This is it taken apart, looks a bit different to the one pictured in the thread. Not sure if the bit shown in the first pic should be bent?

20200711_161447.jpg

20200711_161419.jpg
 
Here's video of what I believe this issue is. This part is fully free floating and quite often interferes with the locking mechanism.

Hopefully you can understand my accent!

 
Your lock is different from the one on my pistol.
I don't see any adjustment screw.
Definitely needs cleaning and light oil.
I wouldn't mess with that pin. Looks a bit bent but shouldn't be an issue.
Sometimes the lock can bind up if it's too tightly attached to the stock. When you put it all back together, the screws had hold it in place should be tight but not super tight.
 
G'day all,

My hawken turned up today and I have a few things I'm a little concerned about. Before I start on that the brand as it turns out is "Dikar Spain". Does anyone know anything about these rifles?

My little gripe is that it seems to me that the ramrod is a bit short, when in the barrel it's 19mm or about 3/4" from the top of the muzzle. I know with powder and shot it won't be so bad but it still seems to be cutting fine compared to my TC inline.

View attachment 9701

View attachment 9702

More concerning to me though is the hammer. I've included a video below, basically it will usually click into captive half cock but when brought back to full cock it doesn't "click" into it. At other times it fully slips out of the lock.



Said to the guy that providing it was in good working order and the bore was good I'd take it. Was assured it was.

Here's the first few patches out of the barrel.
View attachment 9704

Mind you this rifle was sold as in "excellent" condition.

Is one side of the ramrod threaded for a jag? It does look short but that's easy enough to fix (replace)! As far as the hammer goes, pull the lock off and inspect it and the trigger assembly closely. It could just use a good cleaning. Overzealous oiling can cause problems like you discribe. A thin film of oil is all that's really needed. A worst case scenario, you have to replace a part. Call the seller with your findings. As far as the patches go, that looked to me like shelf storage. You could bore scope it but I always run a patch down the barrel of anything I got and if it's been sitting for months, that what it looks like. Oiled metal will stain a white patch. You can patch it till they come out perfect then add a couple drops of oil and your patch looks like that.
Relax, make the gun your own. You do that by bringing the gun up to your standards.good luck, have a blast.
Neil
 
Your lock is different from the one on my pistol.
I don't see any adjustment screw.
Definitely needs cleaning and light oil.
I wouldn't mess with that pin. Looks a bit bent but shouldn't be an issue.
Sometimes the lock can bind up if it's too tightly attached to the stock. When you put it all back together, the screws had hold it in place should be tight but not super tight.
There is an adjustment screw here. I haven't messed with it, wanted to wait to see what the knowledgeable blokes here thought first.
 

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Didn't see it in the first picture. That's about the same location as the one I have. I would bet that the screw is in too far.
You should try backing off on it just a little.
That adjustment screw is for the trigger pull.
 
My dad use to run the gun shows. He’d told me that he was surprised at how many T/C that he bought had the triggers out of adjustment.
 
Looks like a CVA. CVA/Bergara made in Dikar Spain.
 
My dad use to run the gun shows. He’d told me that he was surprised at how many T/C that he bought had the triggers out of adjustment.

The Little Adjustment Screw between the TC Triggers is NOTORIOUS for moving, I use Blue Loctite on ALL of mine, THEN i adjust the Trigger and let sit overnight. Before i started doing this i had Several Lose adjustment and had to Re-adjust while Shooting
 

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