Hot and fouled barrels

[Charlie-NY]

I did not clean the breech plug during the (aprox) 15 shots. I don't seem to get much dried residue out of the plug when I'm home. I use a 1/8" drill bit by hand. as suggested by T/C.

Next time out I'm going to run the bit in every 3 firings and try again to load without running a patch down between shots. I must say that running the patch down & up does remove a lot of BLACK residue from a single shot. It would seem that this stuff would accumulate fast in a barrel that was repeatedly fired without cleaning.

I ordered some more 250gr TMZ bullets because they seemed to shoot better than anything else, including the 290gr TMZ.

Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[michiganmuzzy]

It does sound like your flame channel need more attention. That gets me from time to time.

 

[BuckDoeHunter]

I continued my practice of using a damp patch between firings.

If that included T17, stop doing that.

I would use JB bore paste and give your barrel a good cleaning, then only use solvents, cleaners, oils for centerfire rifles, nothing for black powder. What condition is your bore in after cleaning? I finish my cleaning routine by running a patch down the bore with Hoppes oil on it, then before my next range session, I use a clean patch with some alcohol on it to get all the oil out of the barrel, then fire 3 primers to foul the bore.

How old are your sabots?

If your only getting 2 shots before it gets too tight to load, something is not right, it sounds like your barrel is getting gummed up with something your doing in your cleaning or swabbing routine.

 

[Charlie-NY]

If that included T17, stop doing that.

I would use JB bore paste and give your barrel a good cleaning, then only use solvents, cleaners, oils for centerfire rifles, nothing for black powder. What condition is your bore in after cleaning? I finish my cleaning routine by running a patch down the bore with Hoppes oil on it, then before my next range session, I use a clean patch with some alcohol on it to get all the oil out of the barrel, then fire 3 primers to foul the bore.

How old are your sabots?

If your only getting 2 shots before it gets too tight to load, something is not right, it sounds like your barrel is getting gummed up with something your doing in your cleaning or swabbing routine.

In this last relay I switched from the regular T17 cleaner to the T17 cleaner & seasoner that is for black powder substitutes. I've been cleaning at home with Balistol and Blackhorn 209 Cleaner. Even though the barrel is SS I finish by running a CLP patch down the bore followed by a tight dry patch.

I'm going to eliminate swabbing and see how that goes.

 

[HC]

I would really suggest that you drop any of the T17 products that you might be using, especially, with BH-209 powder. While BH is a BP sub - it really is a slow burning smokeless powder with a bit of Sulphur and Potassium added to qualify as a BP sub.

With BH it is a whole new ball game.

If that included T17, stop doing that.

I would use JB bore paste and give your barrel a good cleaning, then only use solvents, cleaners, oils for centerfire rifles, nothing for black powder. What condition is your bore in after cleaning? I finish my cleaning routine by running a patch down the bore with Hoppes oil on it, then before my next range session, I use a clean patch with some alcohol on it to get all the oil out of the barrel, then fire 3 primers to foul the bore.

How old are your sabots?

If your only getting 2 shots before it gets too tight to load, something is not right, it sounds like your barrel is getting gummed up with something your doing in your cleaning or swabbing routine.

 

[deerlessbob]

As stated above, a hot barrel can cause accuracy problems. You really need to take your time between shots, especially when faced with summer like temperatures.

 

[Charlie-NY]

OK - I made a few changes based on all of your suggestions.
I cleaned the bore well and then ran a few tight JB patches to boot.
I shot a few 250 Shockwaves with 120gr BH to get centered on the 100yd target but did NOT swab between shots
Cleaned the breech plug channel and switched to the 250 TMZ with 120gr BH
Noticed that velocity was down a bit and point of impact off - adjusted scope
Shot 2 - 3 shot groups at 200yds with groups just over 2" - No swabbing between shots
Placed a target on the 300yd line and cleared the breech plug again
Held dead on with the bottom circle in the Nikon scope and sent 3 copper bullets down to the target. Point of impact was 8" low.
(Loading the Barnes sabots was stiff and the slide down jagged but not impossible)

The 300yd target is below:

 

[BuckDoeHunter]

Nice shooting. Harvester sells a crush rib sabot for the TMZ boattails, that may help on the stiff loading bullets. You could also try the Barnes TEZ's, they should load easier.

 

[eekjellander]

I shot the ML a bit more today and noticed something interesting. Initial shots were consistent in velocity with a standard deviation in the teens. The last few shots started throwing lead all over the place at 200yds. The velocities varied over 100 ft/sec with carefully weighed charges.

Its either the bore condition or my technique but I "try" to set the bullets down with equal pressure. I continued my practice of using a damp patch between firings. Without it I think I could only get two consecutive sabots down the bore. They seem to get tight fast.

If you want sameness go to Midway and get their Lehigh hunting range rod it works, not for cleaning but for loading the same every time ./Ed

 

[ENCORE50A]

OK - I made a few changes based on all of your suggestions.
I cleaned the bore well and then ran a few tight JB patches to boot.
I shot a few 250 Shockwaves with 120gr BH to get centered on the 100yd target but did NOT swab between shots
Cleaned the breech plug channel and switched to the 250 TMZ with 120gr BH
Noticed that velocity was down a bit and point of impact off - adjusted scope
Shot 2 - 3 shot groups at 200yds with groups just over 2" - No swabbing between shots
Placed a target on the 300yd line and cleared the breech plug again
Held dead on with the bottom circle in the Nikon scope and sent 3 copper bullets down to the target. Point of impact was 8" low.
(Loading the Barnes sabots was stiff and the slide down jagged but not impossible)

The 300yd target is below:

View attachment 10481

With the 250gr TMZ, quite frankly that's good shooting keeping them at moa or less at 300yds.
I'd suggest you continue with this method and practice more, learn that scope.

 

[Charlie-NY]

Using the Nikon BDC holdover circles was just guesswork but worked sufficiently at shorter ranges. I use the crosshair for 100yds, the first holdover circle for 150, second for 200 and guessed that the forth (bottom) might get me to 300yds.

I could probably adjust the magnification ring to bring the impact closer @ 300yds but it's only academic because I wouldn't shoot at a deer past 200yds with the ML anyway.

At this point I'm interested in seeing what a 400yd groups looks like. I've calculated it to have a 4' drop using the bottom BDC circle.

 

[LarryBud]

Using the Nikon BDC holdover circles was just guesswork but worked sufficiently at shorter ranges. I use the crosshair for 100yds, the first holdover circle for 150, second for 200 and guessed that the forth (bottom) might get me to 300yds.

I could probably adjust the magnification ring to bring the impact closer @ 300yds but it's only academic because I wouldn't shoot at a deer past 200yds with the ML anyway.

At this point I'm interested in seeing what a 400yd groups looks like. I've calculated it to have a 4' drop using the bottom BDC circle.

The Nikon Spoton ballistics calculator is awesome. If you know your muzzle velocity and the bullet BC / weight you can get the print out for the Omega BDC rings. Select your scope from the discontinued models.

 

[Charlie-NY]

The Nikon Spoton ballistics calculator is awesome. If you know your muzzle velocity and the bullet BC / weight you can get the print out for the Omega BDC rings. Select your scope from the discontinued models.

Great idea - thanks