How to bed your bases.

Modern Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Modern Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I just went through this with my .308 Win, I did a BUNCH of Video Watching on this, i seen the video you linked as well. I bought a Can of Shoe Polish, JB Weld, EVERYTHING i needed to Bed the Rail when it Got here. When my Nightforce Rail arrived it ended up Fitting my Rem 700 SA Reciever like a FINE TAILORED Suit, I Got DARN LUCKY! From all of the research i did, they Claim over 95% of Rem 700 Receivers will be Off, Some FAR worse than others, i seen some that were BAD! Then their will be the RARE Exception that you run across a Square Reciever, or VERY Close. Mine was SO Close that there was no need to Mess with it, I could not get a piece of paper under the Rear of the Rail with the front Screws in, Not even my ULTRA Thin Onion Skin
 
On my Warnes 2 piece and the 1 piece rail, they all touch nice on the edges. You wont slip anything in there but looking at it from the ends both bases have a slightly higher center. Mine is so small i could probably use some kind of locktite instead of epoxy.
 
I found this video on Youtube. I think most guys could do this so im gunna make it a sticky. If you think there is a better video just let me know. Bedding instructions on Murphy's website appear to be very similar.
Looking at the videos posted and a few others, I've noticed some only bed the back section of the rail and others bed both the front and back sections. Any real benefit to doing it one way vs the other?
 
It depends on which end has the tolerance issue. On my UL, when just the front screws were installed, the rear of the base lifted slightly off the receiver. When just the rear screws were installed, the front was down tight.
Doug is a competitive shooter and explains:

 
It depends on which end has the tolerance issue. On my UL, when just the front screws were installed, the rear of the base lifted slightly off the receiver. When just the rear screws were installed, the front was down tight.
Doug is a competitive shooter and explains:


I've seen that video. With the rail I'm going to be bedding, it doesn't matter which end is screwed down the opposite end has a little lift to it. Probably going to bed both ends.
 
Sometimes it hardly seems worth it, no rocking, but visible space. (Still a good idea)
Other times, it like Wow, that is some motion to eliminate.
 
I've always debated on whether or not to bed my bases. The last base I bought was from Hankins, and he specifically states not to bed the rails due to how well they are machined. I didn't even test it with any paper, but from a shooting standpoint it satisfies so far.
 
On my Warnes 2 piece and the 1 piece rail, they all touch nice on the edges. You wont slip anything in there but looking at it from the ends both bases have a slightly higher center. Mine is so small i could probably use some kind of locktite instead of epoxy.
Over the years I have used lots of red Locktite and like it. Sometimes you need to adjust a bit to get there. (use a mill bastard file or diamond sharpener) If the tolerance is too great it goes back in the drawer or to a gun show.
 
Jeff Hankins makes top of the line bases and rings. The tolerances are as tight as you can get, but I disagree about not bedding the base. No matter how perfect the base is made, the actions outside dimensions can and do vary. If you use the method shown in the video LanceS4803 has provided you just can't get any better than this.
 
I've used loctite 272 as a base bed screw locker for years.
Has never let me down sands once on a 50caliber h&r it's so strong a bond the side screw on a ring broke inder recoil but the locktite retained the screw nut.
Missed a huge buck at 30 yards clean.
The next day a buddy missed a doe clean at 40 yards.
On paper the gun shot 2 feet wide right.
After closer examination the nut came off.
With the screw still locked in
The scope had moved off the rail with a clear gap on the stationary side of thr ring.

So today I still bed the base and screws but only torque the rings to base / ring to scope
With a touch of oil on the threads so I don't get a false torque value. From thread friction.

My kit includes the torque wrench with data for those screws and action screw torque.
Serves me well.
Bases at 30 inch pnds rings at 18inch pnds.
Current action at 60 inch pnds.
Action torque can vary for best accuracy
Somewhere between 30 and 60 inch pounds which is a testament to action flex. Especially with a magazine cut action.
The target or single shot actions are much more ridgid.
So I always mount the action in its stock and torque before bedding my base. Doesn't do me much good to perfectly bed the base then pull it around with the action screws.
Of course I've pre established my action torque.
It's a pain but once done pays its rewards.
The small details matter. I believe they add up. Can turn a minute gun into a 1/4 moa shooter.
Just one step in the process ti ultimate accuracy.
We as a group have to pay attention to this aspect with energy levels approaching 4000 pnds these guns can destroy marginal setups in a few shots.
Bases loosen rings shift scopes shaken apart.
Its not a terrible idea to lap the rings also.
I haven't had to with modern steel basses and high quality rings.

Cheers
John
 
Last edited:
Back
Top