Howdy from central Texas. (Also, lots of questions)

[Boone]

Welcome to the forum. Enjoy.

 

[runesc]

That's a long standing myth. Been hunting with saboted bullets since 2000 and have never encountered any problem plastic residue.

Welcome from southwest Oklahoma.

Sabots made today are much different than most horror stories about them are. Using a sabot isn't the end of the world even with heat. One just has to understand that you can't load and go bang, bang, bang. Give time for the barrel to cool down and sabots work just fine. They don't fill the groves with plastic if you let the barrel cool some between shots.

Your primer concern............. Federal 209A and CCI209M are MAGNUM PRIMERS. They are hot and have the highest pressure of all 209 primers. They are recommended when using BH209. The WIN209 primers work well for some. Primers marked as "Muzzleloader" primers have less heat and much less pressure. They were designed to be used with other substitutes which can cause "Crud Rings".

Witness marks................... Assuming that you understand what those are, once you determine your favorite load, then mark the rod. Some will scribe it, others, including myself, use a piece of tape on the ramrod. I do NOT use thimbles under the barrel. I use a 3 piece rod for loading.
You can certainly mark your rod and it would be a good idea when working up your "pet load". It gets you used to looking at and making damn sure that witness mark is in the right place, flush with the barrel when loaded.

Okay, that makes me feel better about using sabots. I had read a while back that plastic sabots would melt in the barrel and completely block it after about three shots, but, now that I know they don't I feel much better about buying them.

So the 209A and CCU209M are magnums. I read on this forum that pellets have a harder time igniting, so is there a recommended primer that I should use with pellets or are magnums just the best? I know Triple se7en makes their own primers but I am not sure how well they would work with their pellets (I assume it would work, but, I may just be overthinking all this)

I really do appreciate all the replies.
-runesc

 

[runesc]

Wouldn’t that be nice!! Join the crowd. You may find everything you need at a local shop but I’m unaware of any place on the internet that currently has everything you would need.

Primers have been scarce for months now. I’ve only seen Fed209a’s available online once or twice in the past 8 months and they generally sell out within minutes. Of course you can generally find a wide selection of primers and powder on Gunbroker.com but you’ll pay crazy prices there. The good news is if you try some 777 powder, the Federal 209 muzzleloader primers are becoming fairly widely available.

Good to know. Its just a shame that nobody has everything. ): But, such is life.

 

[crazyboutduck]

Welcome from Indiana! All good advice given here. I shoot pyrodex pellets and 209 primers in my Optima. I have yet to have a miss fire or hang fire. As long as you keep it clean & keep the breech plug clean you shouldn’t have any issues with ignition. I would rather hunt with my muzzleloader for deer than any other gun I own. Best of luck and enjoy the addiction.

 

[ENCORE50A]

Okay, that makes me feel better about using sabots. I had read a while back that plastic sabots would melt in the barrel and completely block it after about three shots, but, now that I know they don't I feel much better about buying them.

So the 209A and CCU209M are magnums. I read on this forum that pellets have a harder time igniting, so is there a recommended primer that I should use with pellets or are magnums just the best? I know Triple se7en makes their own primers but I am not sure how well they would work with their pellets (I assume it would work, but, I may just be overthinking all this)

I really do appreciate all the replies.
-runesc

IF........ pellets have been stored properly and haven't sucked up a lot of moisture, T7 primers will ignite them and you don't need magnum primers.

I'm not sure where you read that sabots would completely block a barrel after three shots but............ I wouldn't frequent that site again.

 

[gman57]

Welcome from NC in the beginning keep it simple! Easiest for beginners is pellets and a saboted bullet 250-300 gr standard muzzle loader primer, patches and a cleaner. Don’t assume anything use witness mark. In time as you get comfortable you can branch out and experiment. It’s a lot to learn at once so keep it simple and enjoy. There are no stupid questions.

 

[FredB]

Sabots are definitely easier to get good accuracy with. Lead conicals will kill game just fine, and are cheaper, but I never got decent accuracy from them until I got some sized for my barrel, from No Excuse. They sell a simple kit for sizing.
Powder vrs pellets is kind of a soap box issue for me. I guess pellets are a fraction simpler, and if they give you the accuracy you're looking for, then great. If not, powder is cheaper, not that hard to measure in a simple device, and it allows you to fine tune your load far more than with pellets. Some muzzleloaders can be more finicky than others. Five grains makes a world of difference in mine.
Then again, I hate those automatic windows that go all the way up or down with a touch, and I can never seem to get them to stop part way, where I want them. I would sooner have old fashioned roll up windows.

 

[UndeadPoet]

Welcome, from North Carolina! You asked a lot of great questions, and have received a lot of great answers. There are a lot of “rabbit holes” in this hobby, and it is easy to lose yourself down one. I own inlines, but have currently been running in and out of the various traditional sidelock rabbit holes. There are a bunch of them too! Good luck with your new addiction, I mean, “hobby.”

 

[mnoland30]

Welcome. I too recommend loose powder. Muzzleloading can be ridiculously expensive. There is no good reason for that. Pellets cost more than loose powder, and are less powerful. Any 209 primer will work. Buy what you can find. My buddy shoots pellets and they ignite fine with #11 caps which are way less powerful than 209 primers. The Pyrodex pellets ignite easier than the 777's. You asked about cleaning. Between shots I lick a patch and run it down the barrel between shots. I turn it over and run it down again. 777 powder and 209 primers tend to cause a crud ring in your barrel. You'll feel it as you run the rod down. Make short strokes down the barrel to prevent the patch from sticking in the crud ring. If it gets stuck, I carry a tiny eyedrop bottle full of water to squirt in and loosen it. Black powder, Pyrodex , and 777 all clean up with soap and hot water. If you're rich, and decide to use BH209, it uses regular gun cleaning solvents like a centerfire rifle and doesn't develop the crud ring, and doesn't require swabbing between shots.

I hunt elk, so I want the extra velocity that 777 gives. For deer, you probably don't need that. I have found that bullets for .45-70 rifles are usually cheaper than muzzleloader bullets. They work very well in a muzzleloader because they are designed for about the same velocity. Harvester Muzzleloading and MMP Sabots sell sabots made for .458 diameter bullets.

Just because your rifle will take a 150 gr. of powder, doesn't mean you should use it. I recommend the CVA powder measure. It only goes up to 120 gr. for a reason. I started out shooting 150 gr. of powder, and the recoil was painful. I use 115 gr. for elk now.

 

[mnoland30]

Welcome. I too recommend loose powder. Muzzleloading can be ridiculously expensive. There is no good reason for that. Pellets cost more than loose powder, and are less powerful. Any 209 primer will work. Buy what you can find. My buddy shoots pellets and they ignite fine with #11 caps which are way less powerful than 209 primers. The Pyrodex pellets ignite easier than the 777's. You asked about cleaning. Between shots I lick a patch and run it down the barrel between shots. I turn it over and run it down again. 777 powder and 209 primers tend to cause a crud ring in your barrel. You'll feel it as you run the rod down. Make short strokes down the barrel to prevent the patch from sticking in the crud ring. If it gets stuck, I carry a tiny eyedrop bottle full of water to squirt in and loosen it. Black powder, Pyrodex , and 777 all clean up with soap and hot water. If you're rich, and decide to use BH209, it uses regular gun cleaning solvents like a centerfire rifle and doesn't develop the crud ring, and doesn't require swabbing between shots.

I hunt elk, so I want the extra velocity that 777 gives. For deer, you probably don't need that. I have found that bullets for .45-70 rifles are usually cheaper than muzzleloader bullets. They work very well in a muzzleloader because they are designed for about the same velocity. Harvester Muzzleloading and MMP Sabots sell sabots made for .458 diameter bullets.

Just because your rifle will take a 150 gr. of powder, doesn't mean you should. I started out shooting 150 gr. of powder and the recoil was painful. Your 24" barrel would probably shoot flames out the end. I use 115 gr. for elk. I recommend the CVA powder measure, and it only goes up to 120 gr.

 

[runesc]

Welcome. I too recommend loose powder. Muzzleloading can be ridiculously expensive. There is no good reason for that. Pellets cost more than loose powder, and are less powerful. Any 209 primer will work. Buy what you can find. My buddy shoots pellets and they ignite fine with #11 caps which are way less powerful than 209 primers. The Pyrodex pellets ignite easier than the 777's. You asked about cleaning. Between shots I lick a patch and run it down the barrel between shots. I turn it over and run it down again. 777 powder and 209 primers tend to cause a crud ring in your barrel. You'll feel it as you run the rod down. Make short strokes down the barrel to prevent the patch from sticking in the crud ring. If it gets stuck, I carry a tiny eyedrop bottle full of water to squirt in and loosen it. Black powder, Pyrodex , and 777 all clean up with soap and hot water. If you're rich, and decide to use BH209, it uses regular gun cleaning solvents like a centerfire rifle and doesn't develop the crud ring, and doesn't require swabbing between shots.

I hunt elk, so I want the extra velocity that 777 gives. For deer, you probably don't need that. I have found that bullets for .45-70 rifles are usually cheaper than muzzleloader bullets. They work very well in a muzzleloader because they are designed for about the same velocity. Harvester Muzzleloading and MMP Sabots sell sabots made for .458 diameter bullets.

Just because your rifle will take a 150 gr. of powder, doesn't mean you should use it. I recommend the CVA powder measure. It only goes up to 120 gr. for a reason. I started out shooting 150 gr. of powder, and the recoil was painful. I use 115 gr. for elk now.

Welcome. I too recommend loose powder. Muzzleloading can be ridiculously expensive. There is no good reason for that. Pellets cost more than loose powder, and are less powerful. Any 209 primer will work. Buy what you can find. My buddy shoots pellets and they ignite fine with #11 caps which are way less powerful than 209 primers. The Pyrodex pellets ignite easier than the 777's. You asked about cleaning. Between shots I lick a patch and run it down the barrel between shots. I turn it over and run it down again. 777 powder and 209 primers tend to cause a crud ring in your barrel. You'll feel it as you run the rod down. Make short strokes down the barrel to prevent the patch from sticking in the crud ring. If it gets stuck, I carry a tiny eyedrop bottle full of water to squirt in and loosen it. Black powder, Pyrodex , and 777 all clean up with soap and hot water. If you're rich, and decide to use BH209, it uses regular gun cleaning solvents like a centerfire rifle and doesn't develop the crud ring, and doesn't require swabbing between shots.

I hunt elk, so I want the extra velocity that 777 gives. For deer, you probably don't need that. I have found that bullets for .45-70 rifles are usually cheaper than muzzleloader bullets. They work very well in a muzzleloader because they are designed for about the same velocity. Harvester Muzzleloading and MMP Sabots sell sabots made for .458 diameter bullets.

Just because your rifle will take a 150 gr. of powder, doesn't mean you should. I started out shooting 150 gr. of powder and the recoil was painful. Your 24" barrel would probably shoot flames out the end. I use 115 gr. for elk. I recommend the CVA powder measure, and it only goes up to 120 gr.

Not sure why there's two of you but that's a lot of help in my adventures. I will have to look into this. I'm not too sure what CVA measuring is. Is it some sort of container I can buy to keep loose powder in? But, like I (will) say, I will use pellets starting.

I think starting out, with what I heard, and what's available to me, I will try the T7 pellets with a regular 209 primer. I will try sabots, but I'm not sure the best sabot to buy. If I really get into this thing I will more than likely shift to using BH209.

 

[mnoland30]

 

[ingramjets]

take a look at harvester sabots and bullets. the pt gold or white lightning shoot great

 

[Jbrown69]

take a look at harvester sabots and bullets. the pt gold or white lightning shoot great

I second Harvester sabots and bullets, as well.

 

[GM54-120]

I have a "Traditions Buckstalker XT Muzzleloading Rifle 50 Caliber 24" barrel" and I would like to know any bullet suggestions.

Those barrels are typically on the tight side. The sabots included with Traditions Smackdown bullets are the same sabot that is included with Hornady SSTs. Its called a 3P-EZ by the company that makes them called MMP. Its a 3 petal sabot so its simple to identify. There are no other sabots with 3 petals.

Another sabot that may work is the Harvester Black Crushrib. Buy a 50pack of sabots and a 50pack of their PT Gold bullets. Its one of the less expensive options while you get familiar with your ML.

Sabots 50 Cal Crushed Rib Sabot for .451-.452 Cal Bullet - Pack Qty: 50

PT Gold bullets...I would get the 260gr for now. 45 Cal. 260 Grain .451 Polymer Tip Bullet (Sabots not Included) - Pack Qty: 50

Thats roughly $48 shipped. If you buy more it will offset the $12 shipping.

 

[JeffB1961]

welcome to the forum . i also new .
if you can find primers and powder/pellets locally that will save you hazmat fees , i found mine at a small local shop a few months ago but i've seen them at my local walmart in the past week or two . i will suggest that if you scope your rifle to get one with long eye relief

 

[GM54-120]

welcome to the forum . i also new .
if you can find primers and powder/pellets locally that will save you hazmat fees , i found mine at a small local shop a few months ago but i've seen them at my local walmart in the past week or two . i will suggest that if you scope your rifle to get one with long eye relief

Agreed, look for no less than 3.6" on high. Most scopes will vary between high and low magnification but often rate them on the larger number which is low. Leupold for example has many in the 3.7"high-4.2"low range. (Just an example of a good range to be in)

You also want a durable scope. MLs can be rough on optics. Most of the cheap Chinese stuff is not going to hold up very long but there are numerous good scopes made in the Philippines or Japan. Cameraland often has sales on scopes that cover most of the bases and wont cost a fortune.