Knight Bighorn question

[1arrowshort]

I've been shooting this gun the way it was set up when I inherited it. musket cap and 777 loose powder and pyrodex loose. It works, shot a couple whitetails here in WI. I want to play around a little more and experiment. With the breech plug that's in it, I can replace the nipple for #11s, (but they seem to fit loose) so maybe I'm wrong? The other problem is the 209 breech plug doesn't let the primer seat all the way. I'm not sure if I need FPJs or the original disc. I'm guessing the original orange discs. Any insight would be great. If more pics are needed I can upload

 

[HC]

That is a bare primer plug pictured, primer is held by magnet ,very poor design.

 

[flounder]

True, and also it's hard to think of a good reason to use a 209 primer in a Bighorn unless that's all you got.

 

[rugerbh103]

I have one of those bare primer plugs. Used it a few times and went back to #11's. If you want to shoot 209's you'll need the red jacket breech plug. In my experience it's the easiest plug to find.

I use a Knight red hot nipple for #11's. CCI Magnums and RWS 1075 plus primers have worked for me. I prefer #11's over musket caps, as they seem to form a better seal. Both have worked fine for Prodex and T7 powder. If I wanted to shoot pellets I'd go with the 209's, but haven't seen the need.

 

[1arrowshort]

That is a bare primer plug pictured, primer is held by magnet ,very poor design.

I figured the gap had to be made up by a disk. I fired it and nothing, a pain to get out once the plunger hit it and drove it in further.

 

[1arrowshort]

True, and also it's hard to think of a good reason to use a 209 primer in a Bighorn unless that's all you got.

No reason other than I have a bunch of pellets and 209s and thought I would try it. will musket caps or 11s ignite pellets? I thought a hotter 209 is what I should do. I have red hot 11 and musket cap nipples that I have been using.

 

[1arrowshort]

I have one of those bare primer plugs. Used it a few times and went back to #11's. If you want to shoot 209's you'll need the red jacket breech plug. In my experience it's the easiest plug to find.

I use a Knight red hot nipple for #11's. CCI Magnums and RWS 1075 plus primers have worked for me. I prefer #11's over musket caps, as they seem to form a better seal. Both have worked fine for Prodex and T7 powder. If I wanted to shoot pellets I'd go with the 209's, but haven't seen the need.

My T7 powder shows to use 11s all the way around so maybe I'll stick with the loose powder and caps. I had some time last weekend and was trying different things. I just ordered a bag of FPJ and disks, I guess I'll return them and give the 209s to a guy at work that has a cva. Thanks for the info guys. I think I have the points to draw a muzzleloader elk tag in Colorado this year so I'm trying to figure some things out.

 

[flounder]

Not positive but I think you would have also needed a different striker to use the full plastic jackets and the FPJ breech plug.

 

[1arrowshort]

Thanks, I was unaware of that and am probably not going buy a plunger/breach plug for it since the caps work fine, plus it seems 11s are the way to go from what you and rugerbh103 said.

 

[WV Hunter]

#11 ignition is outstanding for those plunger Knights. Nothing really gained with 209, other than more crud ring
I use Pyro RS in mine

 

[sabotloader]

From what I can see in your picture I believe you have the cap hammer. Here is a picture of the two different hammers.

 

[1arrowshort]

sabotloader, that might explain why when I tried the 209s nothing happened. there is a slight bulge inside the plunger but not an actual point like in your photo. I've settled on ignition and powder now to figure out a none sabot bullet. I have power belts and boreloks but am ordering some thor and no excuses to try. The Joy's of muzzleloading continues

 

[dbowling]

if shooting sabots try 240/300 gr xtp with sabot of choice and with 80-90 gr pyrodex RS or 777..accurate in every knight Ive ever tried them in. No Excuse 65-80 gr of powder.

 

[1arrowshort]

Thanks for the info dbowling, I'm trying to figure out a load/bullet combo for Colorado. The 65 to 80 grains of powder with no excuses is a big help. I have been shooting 100 grains pyrodex and T7 for my Harvester scorpions and bore loks for whitetails in WI. I like the T7, so I'm thinking T7 and no excuses for elk and dropping down on the powder charge because of what you said. This site is a wealth of knowledge for us guys that struggle.

 

[1arrowshort]

So I was shooting this morning and am confused. Took the scope off the knight and shot open sights to practice for if I draw an elk tag in Colorado. The first group at 50 yrds is 6" high, ok good, move it out to 100 yrds and it should drop right in, no, 3" higher than that? is it how I am holding (100 yrds open sights is a poke for me) or is the bullet still climbing at 100 yrds? 100 grains T7, cci musket caps and 270 gr. bore locks. I'm fine with the 100 yrd shots a little left as it's out in the field with a right to left wind, I'm going to try again this week but wanted your guy's thoughts.

 

[snapbang]

without all the information I think your gun is spot on. Lower the point of impact to 2 inches high at 50 and you shoould be pretty close to spot on at 100

 

[1arrowshort]

ok, I was going to drop it down but was confused when I was still high at 100 yrds. I'll try that when/if I have time this week.thank you snapbang

 

[snapbang]

do a search for ballistic calculator. Fill in the various pieces of information. It will print out all the information you could possibly want. If you have a problem PM me. Ill help you on the side.

I decided to do it for you. I made a lot of assumptions but you can look up the details and enter the info your self.

This first table is where you are now. You said 6 inches high at 50 and 9 inches high at 100.

Drag Function: G1 Ballistic Coefficient: 0.3 Bullet Weight: 250 gr Initial Velocity: 1900 fps Sight Height : 1.0 in Shooting Angle: 0°

Wind Speed: 10 mph Wind Angle: 90° Zero Range: 250 yd Chart Range: 200 yd Maximum Range: 3907 yd Step Size: 25 yd

International Standard Atmosphere Altitude: Sea Level (0 ft) Barometric Pressure: 29.92 Hg Temperature: 59° F Relative Humidity: 50% Speed of Sound: 1116 fps

Range	Elevation	Energy	Vel[x+y]
(yd)	(in)	(ft.lbf)	(ft/s)
0	-1.00	2004	1900
25	2.62	1877	1839
50	5.58	1757	1779
75	7.85	1644	1721
100	9.38	1537	1664
125	10.13	1437	1609
150	10.04	1343	1555
175	9.05	1255	1504
200	7.10	1173	1454

If you adjust your sight to hit 2 inches high at 50 it will hit 2 inches high at 100.

Drag Function: G1 Ballistic Coefficient: 0.3 Bullet Weight: 250 gr Initial Velocity: 1900 fps Sight Height : 1.0 in Shooting Angle: 0°

Wind Speed: 10 mph Wind Angle: 90° Zero Range: 140 yd Chart Range: 200 yd Maximum Range: 3912 yd Step Size: 25 yd

International Standard Atmosphere Altitude: Sea Level (0 ft) Barometric Pressure: 29.92 Hg Temperature: 59° F Relative Humidity: 50% Speed of Sound: 1116 fps

Range	Elevation	Energy	Vel[x+y]
(yd)	(in)	(ft.lbf)	(ft/s)
0	-1.00	2004	1900
25	0.80	1877	1839
50	1.94	1757	1779
75	2.39	1644	1721
100	2.11	1537	1664
125	1.05	1437	1609
150	-0.86	1343	1555
175	-3.66	1255	1504
200	-7.43	1173	1454

If you want an accurate table I need your bullet manufacturer, weight and powder charge.

 

[1arrowshort]

That's a lot of info snapbang, Thank you. I will look at a ballistics chart. I was shooting Federal borelocks 270 grains, 100 grains by volume T7 and cci musket caps out of a bighorn. I'm suprised that the impact is almost the same at 50 to 100 yrds, but I like it I'll PM you if I have more questions after I lower my point of impact at 50 yrds.

 

[edmehlig]

After sighting it in at 50yds, please shoot at 100 yds. What the ballistic program says may give you different actual results.