Lead bullets in a sml

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I think i recall some made like that years ago called cheap shots, came with sabots too. They shot good out of my knight then. You could always up the tin in them. I think making them a little harder if needed imo…
Dead Center? Wonder what recipes they use for lead?
 
Look up a place called Bullseye North, they show an all lead/tin bullet. Extreme elite hollow point. I took a 400 + pound black bear with one at about 75 yds. Lung shot , ran another fifty yds., really happy with these bullets for deer and bear…
 
One of the main problems of Lead bullets is the tendency for the soft Lead to fill up the grooves in your rifle barrel with pieces of lead. This is the purpose of "Lubed" Lead bullet. The Lube helps reduce leading of the barrel.

A Lead bullet in a sabot will work fine for you, because the sabot avoids the problems above. It you get the right alloy; it will mushroom perfectly when it hits the animal. Many thousands of dead animals have proven this truth.
 
The biggest issue with lead is speed - drive it fast enough and it smears or gets enough friction to start softening more or whatever, causing accuracy issues and being a PITA to clean. Using the sabot alleviates that. I don't think you need to worry about it spinning itself apart (as some really light 45gr bullets at 4000fps can do from a 220 swift and similar with a faster twist rate, they never make it to the 100 yard line...) since it is one hunk of lead, especially if you are using a "hard cast" alloy instead of pure lead.

As far as accuracy, etc goes - the only way to find out is to get some range time in and try it. I know my .54 percussion didn't shoot 230gr .451 pistol bullets in sabots very well across several different powder charges, even though the weight of the bullet is really close to a .54 (well .530 ...) round ball in weight (224gr IIRC) and I'm not in the mood/position to spend a chunk of my minimal fun money allowance on finding out, especially since .54 maxis shoot as well as I can manage with the irons on the gun....

For terminal ballistics on an animal though I'd want to either stay with a proven performer solid, monolithic, or just high quality jacketed bullet. Or use a full bore diameter heavy bullet and reduce velocities.
No expert on sabots but I understood too much jump in caliber difference gives a stiffer sabot and can be less accurate in certain temps but I'm not sure about that , or where I heard it/Ed
 
One of the main problems of Lead bullets is the tendency for the soft Lead to fill up the grooves in your rifle barrel with pieces of lead. This is the purpose of "Lubed" Lead bullet. The Lube helps reduce leading of the barrel.

A Lead bullet in a sabot will work fine for you, because the sabot avoids the problems above. It you get the right alloy; it will mushroom perfectly when it hits the animal. Many thousands of dead animals have proven this truth.
If your soft lead is properly sized for your bore ( over sized) as in 451 in a 499 -50 bore it will fill the grooves and with a Dura felt wad there is no gas cutting of base , hence no leading ! Lubes purpose is to keep fouling soft , the problem is to many fps and then your looking at GC s or PC ing to protect your base or (loss of accuracy) .If you have to run that fast (over 2000-21 )and undersized , you will definitely lead your barrel then you need store bought with the out of stock bullets that your looking for along with the added expense! Another reason to cast , and buy a Cabin tree tester to keep your barrel lead free and the deer flopping/Ed
 
Sabots i can fill y'all in about. 1st thing heat is the Bain of sabots. Fps with-in reason won't be a problem specially with all forms of Blk. powder n subs. During warmer Temps if you try to shoot sabots in a hot bbl you will blow them. Now just let your bbls cool n you can run fps up to 2800 n it will fly. Y'all need to knurl all bullets/conicals used in sabots. Reason if they are smooth they can n will not rotate with the sabot. I shoot them from inlines & Percussion & Flintlocks n SML. Hot dang i love this stuff, i roll the way i feel on any giving day.
 
I have been knurling all my bullets I use in my sabots.I figures they would spin in them if nothing for the bullet to grab on to.I try to use mainly 200 grain bullets in my gun ,but did not know how low of a weight the lead bullets were made.I also never shoot in hot weather.Mainly before deer season and during the season.I use my muzzleloader in both the gun and muzzleloader season here in Indiana.I have used 60 grains of h4198 but last year I dropped done to 56 grains.No change in the accuracy department.
 
I have been knurling all my bullets I use in my sabots.I figures they would spin in them if nothing for the bullet to grab on to.I try to use mainly 200 grain bullets in my gun ,but did not know how low of a weight the lead bullets were made.I also never shoot in hot weather.Mainly before deer season and during the season.I use my muzzleloader in both the gun and muzzleloader season here in Indiana.I have used 60 grains of h4198 but last year I dropped done to 56 grains.No change in the accuracy department.
Would seem to me if the bullet/sabot combo is tight it all binds when the trigger is pressed, and with pure lead it expands to force engagement of rifling by sabot and properly sized PP it engages without a sabot and like the paper patch the sabot once past the muzzle disengages or PP turns to confetti as no one looks for sabot strikes in their target/hitch hikers not welcome. Left is a 45 maxi and right is a300gr paper patched without the patch 40 cal (accurate mold) I use with a 50x40 Harvester sabot / left is a unlubed 45cal maxi again in a Harvester50x45 sabot These are the 2 combos I shoot target @200 yd and 150 yds hunting with my CVA V2 pocket Rocket over 80 gr OE 3F or 70 -75 gr BH209 weighed no knurling needed here /Ed
 

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Do you have a exit hole with these?
I mostly take neck or headshots & they do exit of course. On the only 2 body shots that I've taken both bullets were recovered from just under the hide on the opposite side. They dump all their energy after entering the body & the farthest I've had a deer go is 30yds & that was only 1 deer. Every other deer was DRT.
 
I mostly take neck or headshots & they do exit of course. On the only 2 body shots that I've taken both bullets were recovered from just under the hide on the opposite side. They dump all their energy after entering the body & the farthest I've had a deer go is 30yds & that was only 1 deer. Every other deer was DRT.
I checked them out in Ron's tests. They looked like they expand easily. Bet, head and neck shots at close range gets messy at the velocity your pushing them.
 
I have 2 sml muzzleloaders.One is a Knight mountaineer in 45 cal and the other is a newly required Omega with Woodman arms 45 cal sml barrel.I have been shooting hornaday 200 grain sst in hlbs with 55-60 grains of h4198.I see where lead bullets open up more and a better wound with what I shoot.Would a lead bullet in a sabot at the same weight as the sst's hold up to the speed of smokeless powder.I see they are cheaper to shoot.My yardage is from 15 yds to possibly 200 yards across a cut corn field.And I can not afford the bh 209 powder.
This post i have reread several times to see the several ?'s you were seeking answers to. Lead bullet vs jacketed bullet. Jacketed usually has a better BC than the lead, just depends on the style you prefer to use. Oh buddy talk about opening up the 200 XTP is a grenade if pushed past the 1800 MV. Open a tick toters chest up to lung soup. Weight n BC is the trouble in getting lead bullets to hold up to the SW's n SST's. BH-209 is way too high for me but not smokeless powder. I think the way you have asked this is your State says no smokeless powder, then use Trip 7 3 f
 
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