Matching my bullet with its best-fit sabot

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RoJo

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One thing I believe I’ve learned about shooting sabots is that my bore will allow me to use a variety of sabot sizes, with a difference in the effort it takes to seat the sabot onto the charge. In two separate calls with two different CVA reps I was given slightly different diameter of my Accura bore. I got something a little different than that when I talked to the folks that sold the gun.

It seems ”might” be somewhere around .499-.500-.501. I was told that the bore on my Accura is considered a tight bore and that BarnesT-EZ 250 gr. Would be a good start. I shot a dozen or so of them yesterday at 25 yds. To get on paper. Compared to the effort I’ve seen folks needing to seat their bullet the T-EZ seemed quite easy to manage with one hand.

I switched to a Hornady 250 gr. SST to begin sighting my scope at 50 yards. For whatever reason, the accuracy of the Hornady was significantly better than the Barnes. However, I noticed that seating the Hornady was as easy to seat as the Barnes, if not easier. I guess the biggest boo-boo I made on my first day is that I did not clean my 209 breech plug. Needless to say, I suppose that’s why I had dirty primers and a lot of powder residue in that area. Lesson learned.

As for the easy seating sabots, I suppose I could have experienced far less compression in the bore than needed. Is it possible that if the sabot is too loose that it allows part of the compression in my charge to escape and contribute to the residue in the bore or around the breech plug?

Harvester is sending me a sample of bullets with a smooth black sabot to try. I’ve seen where Thor (?) has a set of bullets used to find bore diameter, or I can take the gun to a machine shop equipped to do such measurements. Anyone else find the same issue in an Accura? If so, what sabot did you switch to?

I understand from some readings that tighter compression of a sabot in the bore can improve accuracy. If true, how significant is the improved accuracy? Lastly, when looking for that middle-ground sabot that is neither too loose or too tight, how will I know if I’m trying to seat a sabot with my ramrod that is just too tight to be forcing down the barrel?
 
My Accura v2 hated the smooth sabots from Harvester but loved the Crushribs. They stuck to my bullet till it hit the target at 50 yds. If yours likes them I will give you the pkg.thumbnail_Picture0620191747_1.jpg
 
Wow. Interesting. I’ve read a lot of good articles about the crushed rib but when I asked they guy about them he insisted the smooth would be better. He said something about the crushed rib not filling the grooves as well, or something like that.

As I try a few other sabots I’m looking for a sabot for the Hornady SST. I’ve had so much success with Hornady in my centerfires that I shoot nothing else. If I find a better sabot for my Accura I’ll pass on the Hornady.

Have you shot any Powerbelts? I will eventually try them but I get turned off by their advertising. They claim the Powerbelt is the number 1 selling bullet in America and that it made all other sabots obsolete. Anyway, I’m still in the hunt for a good match and I believe all the testimonials from CVA owners like you narrows my search.
 
The various sabots let us find the Right fit for each individual barrels bore. That combination can change when you change bullets too. With some bullets I need one sabot but with another I would use a different one to maintain the same load diameter. Bullets can vary as much as .001" diameter and that can cause you to get some Fliers in the group. The Rifles accuracy will tell you which to use. I like to need to use a short starter to get them past the crown but need a firm hand and smooth push on the rod to get it to seat on the powder. IF I need to resort to both hands and use all my weight on the rod then it is too tight. With a new rifle or barrel it is good to have some different sabot options to try. One thing I would not do is get into swapping back and forth each target. Work with one bullet and a few sabots before moving on to the next bullet so as to not get to confused. AS for Power belts, you can do much better with all the various options out there. Buying your sabots and bullets separately in bulk is much cheaper that Powder belts.
 
X2 on what Shawn said. I like to load tight but without a fight. Your gun may be different than mine. I even super cleaned my barrel just to make sure the hard loading was not my fault. I shoot both the Harvester solid lead bullets and the Deep curls out of the Crush Rib sabots with no problems. I'm gonna get a mold for casting my own bullets for this gun but right now these are the ones I like. I've never killed anything with Powerbelts but have friends who swear by the lead version to kill elk. I just think there too spendy and I really like Harvester products. They work for me.
 
The various sabots let us find the Right fit for each individual barrels bore. That combination can change when you change bullets too. With some bullets I need one sabot but with another I would use a different one to maintain the same load diameter. Bullets can vary as much as .001" diameter and that can cause you to get some Fliers in the group. The Rifles accuracy will tell you which to use. I like to need to use a short starter to get them past the crown but need a firm hand and smooth push on the rod to get it to seat on the powder. IF I need to resort to both hands and use all my weight on the rod then it is too tight. With a new rifle or barrel it is good to have some different sabot options to try. One thing I would not do is get into swapping back and forth each target. Work with one bullet and a few sabots before moving on to the next bullet so as to not get to confused. AS for Power belts, you can do much better with all the various options out there. Buying your sabots and bullets separately in bulk is much cheaper that Powder belts.
Thanks for the help. With no more experience than I have, it just seemed that the T-EZ AND the Hornady SST were seating too easily. I wonder if it is possible that the loose sabots attributed to the excess powder & smoke that I initially believed was just a dirty breech plug. I've seen way too many posts from Accura owners having success with the T-EZ and the SST to give up and test a different sabot so soon. I will eventually test a few others but my short term goal is too get the most precise load I can by the time early MZ opens late Sept. Whitetail season in NC lasts nearly three months so I'll have time to tinker later. Thanks again for your help.
 
X2 on what Shawn said. I like to load tight but without a fight. Your gun may be different than mine. I even super cleaned my barrel just to make sure the hard loading was not my fault. I shoot both the Harvester solid lead bullets and the Deep curls out of the Crush Rib sabots with no problems. I'm gonna get a mold for casting my own bullets for this gun but right now these are the ones I like. I've never killed anything with Powerbelts but have friends who swear by the lead version to kill elk. I just think there too spendy and I really like Harvester products. They work for me.
Thanks. Like I told Shawn, despite my lack of experience, going by the dozens of videos I've watched the past month I felt little resistance. I'm going to find a way to measure my bore and work with finding a tighter sabot for the T-EZ and the SST. I want to be ready for the Sept. ML season in NC. I have seen many posts from Acurra owners that enjoy success with Harvester sabots.
 
Thanks. Like I told Shawn, despite my lack of experience, going by the dozens of videos I've watched the past month I felt little resistance. I'm going to find a way to measure my bore and work with finding a tighter sabot for the T-EZ and the SST. I want to be ready for the Sept. ML season in NC. I have seen many posts from Acurra owners that enjoy success with Harvester sabots.
If you need tighter than the T-EZ...…….. try the TMZ.
 
If you need tighter than the T-EZ...…….. try the TMZ.
While I continue searching for a better sabot for the TEZ I'm buying some TMZ tomorrow for my range day next week. Also thinking about buying a pack of MZ. Met a guy that works at a local gun shop. He's a 20-yr ML that swears by the TMZ and the MZ.

The only reason I bought the TEZ in the first place is that a CVA rep. convinced me that my Accura had a tight bore, but I'm not so sure. Since then, I've been given three different sets of measurements. Going to find a way to measure the bore as soon as I can.
 
While I continue searching for a better sabot for the TEZ I'm buying some TMZ tomorrow for my range day next week. Also thinking about buying a pack of MZ. Met a guy that works at a local gun shop. He's a 20-yr ML that swears by the TMZ and the MZ.

The only reason I bought the TEZ in the first place is that a CVA rep. convinced me that my Accura had a tight bore, but I'm not so sure. Since then, I've been given three different sets of measurements. Going to find a way to measure the bore as soon as I can.

I've got a couple buddies that I helped them to setup their identical CVA Accura V2 rifles. They bought and had on hand both the T-EZ and the TMZ bullets. The T-EZ's loaded perfectly in one rifle and in the other, they were just way to loose. The TMZ fit the loose bore perfect and it shot excellent. The guy shooting the T-EZ bullets switched to the TMZ and although tighter, they shot excellent from his rifle also.
 
I've got a couple buddies that I helped them to setup their identical CVA Accura V2 rifles. They bought and had on hand both the T-EZ and the TMZ bullets. The T-EZ's loaded perfectly in one rifle and in the other, they were just way to loose. The TMZ fit the loose bore perfect and it shot excellent. The guy shooting the T-EZ bullets switched to the TMZ and although tighter, they shot excellent from his rifle also.
Thank you. Makes me feel better about the possibility of keeping the TEZ. I just read a four-year old post from a member whose son used the same load that was too loose for my bore, but replaced the blue Barnes sabot with a smooth black Harvester. Kinda ironic that when I was talking to Ron from Harvester yesterday, he mailed me some samples of the smooth black sabot, and some Scorpion PT. Guess there's hope or keeping the TEZ, but would gladly try the TMZ and the MZ. Thanks.
 
Are your talking about smoke (Blowback) on the primer side of the Breech plug? If so then sounds like the headspace is a little long. The Way to stop that is to have the primer sealing up the bottom of the pocket it fits into in the BP. I saw you post that you reloaded CF so I'm thinking you may have a caliper? IF so try this, take a new primer and measure the length of it then put it in the rifle But Do Not fire it just snap it closed like you were going to shot. Then open up the action, remove the primer and measure its length again to see if it was crushed any. If not there is a couple ways to fix it. You can try a longer 209 primer such as the Winchester 209 (Blue Box). CVA makes a shim kit for the Firing pin bushing so you can shim the bushing out some or use an o-ring in the bottom of the pocket. With the o-ring though you may have to have the pocket deepened to get the rifle to close with a primer in it. I don't have a CVA but there has been plenty of posts here about it so I am sure someone can give you more on the install of the shims.

https://cva.com/product/firing-pin-shim-kit/
 
Are your talking about smoke (Blowback) on the primer side of the Breech plug? If so then sounds like the headspace is a little long. The Way to stop that is to have the primer sealing up the bottom of the pocket it fits into in the BP. I saw you post that you reloaded CF so I'm thinking you may have a caliper? IF so try this, take a new primer and measure the length of it then put it in the rifle But Do Not fire it just snap it closed like you were going to shot. Then open up the action, remove the primer and measure its length again to see if it was crushed any. If not there is a couple ways to fix it. You can try a longer 209 primer such as the Winchester 209 (Blue Box). CVA makes a shim kit for the Firing pin bushing so you can shim the bushing out some or use an o-ring in the bottom of the pocket. With the o-ring though you may have to have the pocket deepened to get the rifle to close with a primer in it. I don't have a CVA but there has been plenty of posts here about it so I am sure someone can give you more on the install of the shims.

https://cva.com/product/firing-pin-shim-kit/
Appreciate the tips. I never reloaded centerfires but I do have a caliper. I’ll check through everything you shared to see if it improves.
 
Just be aware that a 250gr TEZ and a 250gr SST (for example) while both are 45cal......They are NOT both .452.........Barnes bullets typically run .001 smaller or slightly more. Harvester Scorpions are a bit under .452 also. Parkers run .451 or super close. I have "45cal" bullets as small as .4505 so a sabot that works for one bullet may not work as well for another.

Slightly too tight is better than slightly too loose. If you found a .451 combo that shoots great but a .452 is sorta tight you can always buy a .451 sizing die from Lee. Just resize all your .452s to .451s.
 
Just be aware that a 250gr TEZ and a 250gr SST (for example) while both are 45cal......They are NOT both .452.........Barnes bullets typically run .001 smaller or slightly more. Harvester Scorpions are a bit under .452 also. Parkers run .451 or super close. I have "45cal" bullets as small as .4505 so a sabot that works for one bullet may not work as well for another.

Slightly too tight is better than slightly too loose. If you found a .451 combo that shoots great but a .452 is sorta tight you can always buy a .451 sizing die from Lee. Just resize all your .452s to .451s.
I always appreciate feedback like this. If I'm learning the ML aspects correctly, the diameter of your bore helps dictate the size of the bullet and/or sabot. I'm hoping to measure my boy soon just so I'll. Two CVA reps gave me two different specs, while a large retailer of CVA's gave me a slightly different. CVA said one week the bore was .499-501. Last week, a different rep said the factory standard is that it must be in the range of .499-501. Kinda the same, I guess. If the .499-.501 is correct, is that considered a tight bore? If so, I'm wondering why the TEZ offered very little resistance, and the Hornady SST the same or less.
 
I've got a couple buddies that I helped them to setup their identical CVA Accura V2 rifles. They bought and had on hand both the T-EZ and the TMZ bullets. The T-EZ's loaded perfectly in one rifle and in the other, they were just way to loose. The TMZ fit the loose bore perfect and it shot excellent. The guy shooting the T-EZ bullets switched to the TMZ and although tighter, they shot excellent from his rifle also.
I'm going back to the range this week and plan to invest in a pack of TMZ's just to see the difference. I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
 
One way to measure the bore is to use a lead round ball one caliber larger then your gun. So if you have a .50 use a .54 round ball or flatten your .50 RB a little. Place it on top of your barrel and drive it down the barrel with a length of brass round stock. With your breech plug out it will come out and you can measure it from there with calipers.
 
One way to measure the bore is to use a lead round ball one caliber larger then your gun. So if you have a .50 use a .54 round ball or flatten your .50 RB a little. Place it on top of your barrel and drive it down the barrel with a length of brass round stock. With your breech plug out it will come out and you can measure it from there with calipers.
I’ve read dozens of posts where guys do this but I keep wondering how it doesn’t cause ant damage. I thought I could measure it with calipers but it has the bullet guiding barrel. I’m going to take a close look at the lead ball trick. Thanks.
 
Are your talking about smoke (Blowback) on the primer side of the Breech plug? If so then sounds like the headspace is a little long. The Way to stop that is to have the primer sealing up the bottom of the pocket it fits into in the BP. I saw you post that you reloaded CF so I'm thinking you may have a caliper? IF so try this, take a new primer and measure the length of it then put it in the rifle But Do Not fire it just snap it closed like you were going to shot. Then open up the action, remove the primer and measure its length again to see if it was crushed any. If not there is a couple ways to fix it. You can try a longer 209 primer such as the Winchester 209 (Blue Box). CVA makes a shim kit for the Firing pin bushing so you can shim the bushing out some or use an o-ring in the bottom of the pocket. With the o-ring though you may have to have the pocket deepened to get the rifle to close with a primer in it. I don't have a CVA but there has been plenty of posts here about it so I am sure someone can give you more on the install of the shims.

https://cva.com/product/firing-pin-shim-kit/
I have thompson omega from the first year they came out, my question is the primers are black after a shot from what i read they shouldn't be and can effect accuracy, so how do i fix that
 

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